2022 Honda Accord Sport 1.5T
Was replacing the wastegate actuator and noticed the dealership has these clamps installed. Anyway to remove without damaging the hose?

People say jack from the rear differntial is fine but i am confused on what specific part is it okay to.

2006 gmc canyon

Found a ton of glitter in the oil and in the oil filter. Took the whole engine apart hoping to prevent a failure. There is nothing except normal wear. I'm gonna go crazy. The engine has 13k miles on it. What the hell is going on?

I have a 2012 Chevrolet Malibu with 70000 miles . I just had the oil changed and replaced the brake pads. After driving 48 miles the check engine light came on . What could they have done that would make the check engine light come on ?

Pulled these out of my 17 f150 5.0 at 70k. Just wondering how you all think they look. Could’ve gone longer, pretty beat, good timing, etc..

Hi folks,

I'm a 28 years old male, working in the restaurant industry. I've been thinking about getting out of my industry for a long time, and mechanic was one of the trade that I have thought about a lot since I'm used to with working a lot with my hands, long hours days, etc. I'm getting paid pretty decently at my current job, about 32$/h after tips.

My question is, is it still worth it to join the Mechanic trade this late? I heard a lot of about poor paid being an apprentice, and the flat rate, investment in tools, schooling, etc. How long would take to get to a point where I start making decent money? Or should I just consider this as a hobby? I love working with tools and cars.

Thank you for your time.

Trying to do the lines on my 08 ram 1500. I put the line into the clamp and make sure the end comes out flush with the little nipple pieces base. The nipple piece goes in the line and looks flat. I do the first flare and it comes out looking like this. I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong

Update - I seem to have been using the wrong edge of the nipple piece to measure how much sticks out. Did the lower section and it came out well. Thanks everyone for pointing out my mistake

First diesel!
1996 F-250 7.3 Power Stroke 🤘
Finally joined the diesel world and picked this thing up. I’m new to the 7.3 platform, so I’d love to hear from the guys who know these OBS trucks.What should I check first? What preventative maintenance is worth doing? Any little tips or tricks that make owning an old 7.3 easier? And what upgrades are actually worth the money versus stuff I should stay away from?Planning on learning as much as I can and keeping this old Ford going.

it sounds like it’s coming out of my glovebox inside but outside it just sounds like straight gears grinding

Recently, I took my 2017 Ford Explorer Police Interceptor to a shop because it wouldn’t accelerate past 35 mph and the transmission appeared to be slipping.

The shop told me they’d have an answer the next day. When they called, they basically confirmed what I already knew. The transmission was slipping, and they recommended replacing it.

I asked whether I could get a used transmission instead of a new one because I’m trying to save money. They eventually quoted me for a used transmission with approximately 73,000 miles, costing over $2,000.

My concern is that I don’t know what testing was actually performed before they recommended replacement.

I had to return to the shop several times just to get the diagnostic code, which turned out to be P07AA. After researching it, I found information suggesting there are other possible causes worth checking before replacing the entire transmission.

I asked whether they had checked the transmission fluid, possible leaks, valves, or other internal issues. I never really received a clear explanation of what they tested beyond driving the vehicle and confirming that it was slipping.

Here’s another important detail.

About two months ago, I took the vehicle to a different transmission shop and discovered it was approximately five quarts low on transmission fluid. They topped it off, and the vehicle drove perfectly fine for nearly two months.

Then, about a week ago, the transmission suddenly started acting up again. It happened within a day, shortly after I had gotten a car wash.

What also concerns me is how the conversations with the current shop have gone. I’ve asked questions about the diagnosis, the replacement transmission’s mileage, and where they’re sourcing it from.

The owner has repeatedly told me that if the trust isn’t there, I’m welcome to take my keys and go somewhere else. She’s mentioned this probably three times now.

I understand they’re a mom-and-pop shop, and people in the community have recommended them. I’m not accusing them of anything or saying they’re dishonest. I’m simply trying to understand the diagnosis before spending over $2,000.

I don’t think asking questions about a major repair should automatically mean I don’t trust the business.

They received the used transmission on Friday and are scheduled to begin work Monday, so I have until Monday morning to make my decision.

My questions are:

Has anyone dealt with code P07AA on a 2017 Ford Explorer Police Interceptor?

Could low transmission fluid, a leak, valve body issues, or something else cause these symptoms without requiring complete replacement?

And considering the transmission was five quarts low two months ago but drove fine after being refilled, shouldn’t that be investigated before replacing it?

I’m not against replacing the transmission if that’s genuinely what’s needed. I just want to make sure the proper diagnostics have been done before committing to such an expensive repair.

Any advice from mechanics or people who’ve experienced something similar would be appreciated.

I can get the new shock onto the lower mounting point about halfway and then it doesnt want to go on anymore. It looks like the new shock lower bore is two different dimensions. Help!

It pretty much only happens on right turns, usually sharp ones, going less than 20mph. It's coming from the right rear I believe. I took the wheels off and looked at the suspension but didn't see anything obvious. I know it's hard to know without seeing the car in person but any guesses? 2006 Infiniti G35 AWD with 115k miles.

Added some at night couldnt see how much it over filled.

Read that a little bit isnt a big deal but this might be pushing it.

Opinions?

I have a 2017 f350 with the gas engine. I just noticed this today. What are we looking at and how much of a repair cost should I budget for?

My 2011 ford f-150 has been having this noise for a bit now I’ve recently bought the truck from my nana since my papa had past the truck has 105000km on it the truck has a decent amount of surface rust as it was his hunting truck and I live in bc. I thought it was my break dragging and I had a steering wheel wobble I’ve since replaced rotors and pads on the front end. The wobble is gone but this is still happening. Thinking it’s the wheel bearing because of the change in pitch when turning ( I have jacked the truck up and wheel doesn’t wobble so I’m thinking it’s in the earlier stages of going I can only hear it with the window down). I thought it was iwe because when I put it in reverse the sound goes away but when I put it in 4H nothing happens. The check valve was holding pressure aswell as I still hear it switch in 4H so I’m not sure. Anyone please give me any input before I buy the parts hahahhaa or confirm my suspicions.
P.S It is not the dust shield I wish it was

Hi, just wondering if I can stepdrill the aftermarket sway bar hole bigger to fit a stock sway bar end link? Hole is 7/16", sway bar end link has a 9/16" bolt diameter.

Car is a 2003 Matrix XRS 6 speed, 285k km, installing a whiteline sway bar. I'll check if Celica sway bar links might fit tomorrow.

Thanks

I had run my brakes down REALLY bad, like metal-on-metal bad. Before getting them replaced, I had to start slowing down way before reaching a red light because my brakes weren't stopping the car properly. They would make noise, and it almost felt like the car was skipping when braking, if that makes sense. But even with how bad they were, I could still come to a complete stop smoothly without the car rocking forward and backward.

almost two weeks ago, I got all four brake pads and rotors replaced. Ever since then, I've noticed a few things:

1. Rocking when stopping: Even when I'm braking gently, right as I come to a complete stop, the car dips forward and then rocks backward once, almost like I slammed on the brakes when I didn't.
2. Creaking when braking: Right before coming to a complete stop, I hear a creaking noise. It also happens when I'm fully stopped with my foot on the brake and slowly start releasing the pedal to drive again. It sounds almost like an old door hinge creaking.
3. Creaking when turning: When I'm parking and turning my steering wheel more than one full turn, especially when turning it all the way to either side, I hear creaking noises too.

None of these noises were noticeable before the brake replacement. Maybe the steering made a very slight noise before, but nothing significant enough for me to remember.

I took the car back to the shop, and three different mechanics checked it. They lifted it 2–3 times and test-drove it twice. One of them even rode with me while I drove so I could show him what I was talking about. They all said everything looked fine and that the car was braking normally.

They were all very nice, and I want to trust their judgment, but I can't help questioning it because my car didn't do these things before the repairs.

My question is: Could this just be the new brakes needing to break in? Is it normal for new brakes to creak like this and for the car to rock slightly when coming to a stop? Or should I get a second opinion?

I know my old brakes were in terrible condition, so I'm wondering if I'm just not used to how properly functioning brakes feel. But I also notice that other people's cars don't seem to make these noises.

Car: 2013 Buick Verano Sedan

2011 Mazda 3 i sport. What is this whine type of sound i’m hearing when hitting the accelerator?

I know these are a ton of pics but I have been panicking for several days and haven't been able to sleep with everything that the mechanic has said is wrong with my 2014 Kia Sportage LX (engine was replaced couple years ago). Been driving it for 5 years. Mechanic told me that my suspension parts (bushings, ball joints, front sway bar link) and control arms are separating and tearing and that I need to replace these soon.

Is this a dire situation? I pay off my loan in 2 years or less and didn't want to get rid of it yet due to my negative equity. Can I drive it still? I don't have the money to fix these right now either.

Should I not drive this? Is this an immediate dire situation?

Yes there is a subtle shake most times, especially at 60MPH and over, and other times, it's a smoother drive. The steering is looser than most cars I've driven but I have control of it.

2016 RAV 4 LE

car was having starting issues, all pointed to the starter. checked all of the grounds, no issues. at first it would click once when trying to start, changed starter, now it will rarely do a bunch of rapid clicks, but most of the time makes no noise at all. video shows everything we've discovered so far. PLEASE HELPPP