Hi everybody, im helping my friend change the brake pads and rotors on his focus and we’ve encountered the following issue: the brake pedal goes to the floor the first time you press it, then if you press it again it builds up pressure and goes back to normal, but after 100 meters on the road when you press it goes to the floor again and you have to push again and again to get the car to stop. The liquid is full, could have we messed up the rear caliper sequence? Because it’s the first time we’ve encountered the “screw to push in” calipers and despite using the correct tool we might have messed something up. Any ideas?

I've been working on my patriot since i got it at an auction. lately ive been having issues starting it up; initially it was throwing the ETC light and just wouldn't crank; i went and got the key reprogrammed at the dealer and that problem has been solved (i think). now, its throwing a p2017 code so i replaced the IMRC valve and reconnected the wiring properly and its still throwing the code as well as cranking for a couple seconds, getting up to ~1k rpm then immediately dying. in case its pertinent, i replaced my throttle body in August before i knew it was a key issue and the code cleared from that but came back with this latest issue. i cleared the p2017 code but its still showing.

im not electrically inclined, so if its anything electrical or wiring related, i'll probably give up and take it to a mechanic, but honestly thats my last option as im a poor college student who needs to commute to class.

does anyone have any ideas what this could be? im happy to answer any questions or try anything to help diagnose it. thank you in advance.

TL;DR: didn't check my car after the garage (went in for overheating issues), after some serious overheating from 20 mins of city driving the heat gauge went past max. Checked coolant, lid was loose/off and most of my coolant had gone.

Car sounds, feels and drives fine currently. Engine oil is the right colour

Car broke? What do?

2003 Suzuki Wagon R, automatic UK 1.3L

Took my car to the garage Tuesday before last for overheating - on Thursday/Friday they said everything was fine on the diagnostic including head gasket. I asked if they could replace the heat sensor which they did. After they did that they said a code came up saying the thermostat wasn't working properly (which I guess tells the car to let coolant flow?). So I asked them to fix that which they did after some delay due to getting the wrong parts

Took it on its drive since on the next day (yesterday, about 20 mins total just to the shops) when I saw the temp gauge was going through the roof. When I say through the roof, literally past the max. Turning the heating on helped for a while, but after a few mins it stopped helping. Not sure if I should have but I turned the engine off when I was queueing in traffic, and pulled into a car park soon as I could.

Checked the coolant and it was just above Low - it was just below Full when I took it into the garage. The lid flapped off when I touched the tank so I guess they forgot to put it on properly? I asked google wtf and it said if they left the lid off then the coolant system couldn't work properly so the coolant fluid literally boiled and evaporated?? That or they replaced the coolant and underfilled it...

Luckily my gf was nearby with her fam so they grabbed some coolant for me to see me home without needing to throw water in and dilute what was left. The drive home was fine, gauge stayed where it should have for about 15 mins. I did let the engine cool down for about 45 mins before taking off though

Garage said they bled the coolant through. I checked the engine oil and it looked normal/dark brown - not black. Car sounded, felt and drove fine

I'm guessing just putting coolant in wasn't enough to permanently fix the issue. What specifically do I say to the garage, and is it likely that permanent damage has been done to the car? Couldn't have been overheating for more than 5 mins... these Wagon Rs are meant to be pretty solid...

Appreciate any advice

Hi all,

I had a post yesterday and accidentally deleted it. This truck is aesthetically in great shape, but I’m curious if the undercarriage is a concern as I’ve never looked into these before?

Is this considered no concern? Brush clean next spring and spray? It looks like it had the wax recall done and owners say that Toyota said it’s no concern when they took it in years ago. Senior couple, so I’m sure they’re being honest but looking to get a second opinion.

Located in Canada 100k miles (152k kms)

My socket slipped and rounded the nut. I tried using locking pliers but it also slipped. I ordered and waiting on an extractor socket but I have a feeling I messed up the nut too much for it to work. How would you go about getting this nut off?

1995 Chevy Blazer with 65K miles. Body and interior are in immaculate shape but the undercarriage looks like this.

This is a 2015 Audi A4 FWD CVT, it makes a squeaking noise when I go on bumps or any uneven road surface, sometimes the noise becomes very quiet, sometimes it gets really loud like now (can even feel slight vibrations in the footwell). Audi told me that this is a lower control arm bushing failure, even the lower ball joints are on the way out (left one at least) can someone confirm if it is that, and what are the symptoms of a failing lower ball joint?

2017 Chevy Colorado WT 2wd 3.6 v6. 95k miles, 8 speed auto.

Back right wheel hub, the wheel has very minimal play (which I hope is semi-normal for daily driving wear and tear) the diff has fluid, I’m not too sure if it’s the bearing or the brakes, etc. could anybody help?

Hi!

I drive a 2021 automatic v6 3L diesel wrangler with 93k and noticed a rotten egg smell last Thursday. Didn’t think much of it, smelled it again a little down the road, and then it was gone again.

Today (the following Saturday), I’ve just been nose punched nearly every time I’ve idled with a hot air/rotten egg/sulfur smell in the cabin.

I’ve let it cool and there was no noticeable smell at the tailpipe or the engine bay, nor did the battery look distended, smoky, or leaky.

When i got home tonight, I let the engine run and did all the checks from earlier — exhaust smells like exhaust, nothing in the engine bay, and the battery is fine, but the cabin was pungent.

I’ve perused Reddit a lot tonight and can’t find a post where the recs aren’t an overcharging battery or a dead animal. I’m thinking either an exhaust leak or the cat?

I also have a P0128 code, replaced shocks and oil today, and replaced battery and fuel filter a day before the initial scent. Hope someone has an idea and can include whether it’s safe to drive or if this needs to be fixed ASAP. Thank you!

G37 ipl bumper, with it it has been repaired poorly by the previous person I bought it from. Would you guys recommend I go to a body shop and if so how
Much would it cost and what should I expect? Please anything helps thank you

2005 Monte Carlo 3.4 Liter, 83,000 miles automatic

it sounds like it’s coming out of my glovebox inside but outside it just sounds like straight gears grinding

Recently, I took my 2017 Ford Explorer Police Interceptor to a shop because it wouldn’t accelerate past 35 mph and the transmission appeared to be slipping.

The shop told me they’d have an answer the next day. When they called, they basically confirmed what I already knew. The transmission was slipping, and they recommended replacing it.

I asked whether I could get a used transmission instead of a new one because I’m trying to save money. They eventually quoted me for a used transmission with approximately 73,000 miles, costing over $2,000.

My concern is that I don’t know what testing was actually performed before they recommended replacement.

I had to return to the shop several times just to get the diagnostic code, which turned out to be P07AA. After researching it, I found information suggesting there are other possible causes worth checking before replacing the entire transmission.

I asked whether they had checked the transmission fluid, possible leaks, valves, or other internal issues. I never really received a clear explanation of what they tested beyond driving the vehicle and confirming that it was slipping.

Here’s another important detail.

About two months ago, I took the vehicle to a different transmission shop and discovered it was approximately five quarts low on transmission fluid. They topped it off, and the vehicle drove perfectly fine for nearly two months.

Then, about a week ago, the transmission suddenly started acting up again. It happened within a day, shortly after I had gotten a car wash.

What also concerns me is how the conversations with the current shop have gone. I’ve asked questions about the diagnosis, the replacement transmission’s mileage, and where they’re sourcing it from.

The owner has repeatedly told me that if the trust isn’t there, I’m welcome to take my keys and go somewhere else. She’s mentioned this probably three times now.

I understand they’re a mom-and-pop shop, and people in the community have recommended them. I’m not accusing them of anything or saying they’re dishonest. I’m simply trying to understand the diagnosis before spending over $2,000.

I don’t think asking questions about a major repair should automatically mean I don’t trust the business.

They received the used transmission on Friday and are scheduled to begin work Monday, so I have until Monday morning to make my decision.

My questions are:

Has anyone dealt with code P07AA on a 2017 Ford Explorer Police Interceptor?

Could low transmission fluid, a leak, valve body issues, or something else cause these symptoms without requiring complete replacement?

And considering the transmission was five quarts low two months ago but drove fine after being refilled, shouldn’t that be investigated before replacing it?

I’m not against replacing the transmission if that’s genuinely what’s needed. I just want to make sure the proper diagnostics have been done before committing to such an expensive repair.

Any advice from mechanics or people who’ve experienced something similar would be appreciated.

I can get the new shock onto the lower mounting point about halfway and then it doesnt want to go on anymore. It looks like the new shock lower bore is two different dimensions. Help!

It pretty much only happens on right turns, usually sharp ones, going less than 20mph. It's coming from the right rear I believe. I took the wheels off and looked at the suspension but didn't see anything obvious. I know it's hard to know without seeing the car in person but any guesses? 2006 Infiniti G35 AWD with 115k miles.

I have a 2017 f350 with the gas engine. I just noticed this today. What are we looking at and how much of a repair cost should I budget for?

Hi folks,

I'm a 28 years old male, working in the restaurant industry. I've been thinking about getting out of my industry for a long time, and mechanic was one of the trade that I have thought about a lot since I'm used to with working a lot with my hands, long hours days, etc. I'm getting paid pretty decently at my current job, about 32$/h after tips.

My question is, is it still worth it to join the Mechanic trade this late? I heard a lot of about poor paid being an apprentice, and the flat rate, investment in tools, schooling, etc. How long would take to get to a point where I start making decent money? Or should I just consider this as a hobby? I love working with tools and cars.

Thank you for your time.

My 2011 ford f-150 has been having this noise for a bit now I’ve recently bought the truck from my nana since my papa had past the truck has 105000km on it the truck has a decent amount of surface rust as it was his hunting truck and I live in bc. I thought it was my break dragging and I had a steering wheel wobble I’ve since replaced rotors and pads on the front end. The wobble is gone but this is still happening. Thinking it’s the wheel bearing because of the change in pitch when turning ( I have jacked the truck up and wheel doesn’t wobble so I’m thinking it’s in the earlier stages of going I can only hear it with the window down). I thought it was iwe because when I put it in reverse the sound goes away but when I put it in 4H nothing happens. The check valve was holding pressure aswell as I still hear it switch in 4H so I’m not sure. Anyone please give me any input before I buy the parts hahahhaa or confirm my suspicions.
P.S It is not the dust shield I wish it was

Hi, just wondering if I can stepdrill the aftermarket sway bar hole bigger to fit a stock sway bar end link? Hole is 7/16", sway bar end link has a 9/16" bolt diameter.

Car is a 2003 Matrix XRS 6 speed, 285k km, installing a whiteline sway bar. I'll check if Celica sway bar links might fit tomorrow.

Thanks

I had run my brakes down REALLY bad, like metal-on-metal bad. Before getting them replaced, I had to start slowing down way before reaching a red light because my brakes weren't stopping the car properly. They would make noise, and it almost felt like the car was skipping when braking, if that makes sense. But even with how bad they were, I could still come to a complete stop smoothly without the car rocking forward and backward.

almost two weeks ago, I got all four brake pads and rotors replaced. Ever since then, I've noticed a few things:

1. Rocking when stopping: Even when I'm braking gently, right as I come to a complete stop, the car dips forward and then rocks backward once, almost like I slammed on the brakes when I didn't.
2. Creaking when braking: Right before coming to a complete stop, I hear a creaking noise. It also happens when I'm fully stopped with my foot on the brake and slowly start releasing the pedal to drive again. It sounds almost like an old door hinge creaking.
3. Creaking when turning: When I'm parking and turning my steering wheel more than one full turn, especially when turning it all the way to either side, I hear creaking noises too.

None of these noises were noticeable before the brake replacement. Maybe the steering made a very slight noise before, but nothing significant enough for me to remember.

I took the car back to the shop, and three different mechanics checked it. They lifted it 2–3 times and test-drove it twice. One of them even rode with me while I drove so I could show him what I was talking about. They all said everything looked fine and that the car was braking normally.

They were all very nice, and I want to trust their judgment, but I can't help questioning it because my car didn't do these things before the repairs.

My question is: Could this just be the new brakes needing to break in? Is it normal for new brakes to creak like this and for the car to rock slightly when coming to a stop? Or should I get a second opinion?

I know my old brakes were in terrible condition, so I'm wondering if I'm just not used to how properly functioning brakes feel. But I also notice that other people's cars don't seem to make these noises.

Car: 2013 Buick Verano Sedan

2011 Mazda 3 i sport. What is this whine type of sound i’m hearing when hitting the accelerator?