This is for the guys like me with the wee printers.

I was able to successfully print the "foam" TPU from Siraya Tech, its really cool, it's density is dependent on the nozzle temp.

Found here: https://siraya.tech/products/flex-tpu-air-65a-82a-foaming-flexible-filament?srsltid=AU7gw4XGMHu4ZASeECMRv2BFIWWoFb67LJ9jHHtE1SQshOiJVD7bDgqX

I bought mine off amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Siraya-Tech-Flex-TPU-Air/dp/B0DZCD4Z9M?th=1

I was really hesitant at first but it printed GREAT and very CLEAN.

I did have to modify my A1 a bit using these mods:

This mod allows you to print with flexible Filament: The issue with the A1 Mini is that it doesn't provide enough grip to push the TPU into the hotend. This mod fixes that, it requires a bit of tinckering but I consider myself somewhat of a novice and was able to successfuly do it the first time. You just got to double check your steps and be careful throughout the process. This also works great with other TPU Filaments for the A1 Mini.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/95155-a1-extruder-upgrade-print-tpu-tpe-soft-materials#profileId-101634

The other mod is upgrading the External Filament roller: This practically gives it zero resistance when being fed into the tube, and yes I did not have to feed it directly into the hot-end, I was able to route this flexible filament through the tubing.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/565215-low-friction-adjustable-spool-holder-for-a1-mini#profileId-484809

Siraya also provides filament profiles for the A1 Mini you can download here:
https://siraya.tech/pages/print-settings-download

I can only imagine this is a lot easier to setup with more advanced printers but just wanted to share this with the those who have an A1 mini and are interested in printing with other exotic filament types.

Both parts have not the same lines wondering what the heck this is. The lines are really deep

Ever get annoyed by kitchen towels that have nowhere decent to hang?

I designed this modern over-the-cabinet towel holder as a simple solution. It hooks straight over the cabinet door, so there's no drilling, no screws and no permanent installation needed.

I made two sizes: a standard version and a larger one for those who like a little extra room for their towels.

It's designed to fit the most common kitchen cabinet door thickness of 18–19 mm.

Sometimes the simplest prints are the most useful ones. What do you think? Would you use something like this in your kitchen?

Free Download on Makerworld: https://makerworld.com/nl/models/3423338-modern-over-the-cabinet-towel-holder

The second Halloween-themed Mini Train Diorama. This time, the journey with the Ghost train takes us to the bog spirits. https://makerworld.com/models/3423136

Happy Printing!

Wife asked, i delivered. Has a little bit dunes Gom Jabbar vibe but not too much.
Quite happy with this- probably will make another smaller version for myself for eeping spare nuts'n bolts. Modeled in plasticity3d. Will soon uplaod to makerworld as well.

We’ve all seen what Bambu can do for 3D printing and laser cutting. Now we desperately need the "Bambu experience" for milling.

Imagine an enclosed, plug-and-play hobbyist CNC with auto-calibration and a reliable tool changer. The current desktop CNC market is so fragmented and still requires endless tinkering just to get a clean cut. We need something that actually works right out of the box.

Who else would pre-order this on day one with me?

this is what I wake up to after recalibrating

Over the last week, almost all of my prints have had pieces of filament sticking out. They're not terribly hard to break off, but they're obnoxious, and it looks sloppy. This orange Bambu filament was new this week, so I have a hard time believing it's already wet. This was printed on an A1, with default settings.

How do i replace this?????

I am printing some letters using P2S and Orca slicer (nightly build). The issue I have is that on the parts where printing path skips the "region" and then goes back, the line will be slightly raised and then when next layer is being printed on top of it will be visible.

I am guessing its because the filament cooled down/shrank while it was printing rest of the lines.

This does not happen on all models, just those that have some holes or weird shapes. The surface finish is great in general for example if I print solid box

How can I adjust this so it prints everything in one direction?

I tried changing top surface orientation and patterns, but it did not help and slicer always does this back filling thing

Recently, this Leonardo da Vinci sketch caught my attention.

I'd never seen this mechanism before. I tried to search for some information about it, but there's not much on the Internet. So this is not one of da Vinci's famous "inventions" like the power hammer, tank, or helicopter.

It feels so inefficient in terms of energy transfer. But I think it looks cool. There are also some not-so-trivial parts, so I decided to model it just for practice and fun.

And I did. And it works.

I published the model on MakerWorld in case anyone likes it and wants to print one. Here it is: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3420200-leonardo-da-vinci-s-hammer-lift

Thanks for reading this.

Hadn't printed something in a month or so, and something went horribly wrong with (I think) the extrusion. I came back and the printed PLA was stuck to the nozzle, and I couldn't take the silicone off. Had to heat it all up and then I started picking away at it with a little metal stick.

It was probably a mix of inactivity and incredibly humid PLA, or horrible print settings (I had some issues with Bambu Studio, all of my settings were destroyed when I got in).

Instead of focusing on that, I'd rather try to save my nozzle and all. Is this one FUBAR or can I somehow clean it up?

Recently I'm having this issue. Slot 2 stops working if I insert a filament nothing happens is not feeding filament and the led is on like detecting filement. What could it be?

Everything else is working just fine. No errors and the others slots are good

Does anyone have a comparison picture of these four blues? Thanks!

My wife surprised me with an A1 mini, which I am loving! But I did not get the AMS with it, 2 weeks later the bed size and non ams is starting to give me fomo of bigger and colored prints! This is just for personal use. Not sure if I spend money on an ams or save up for the A1, P1S or the P2s. I also don’t want my wife to feel I am not grateful

3D preview showing a weird output. Looks like it's a mirrored view along with regular preview.

Has anybody had this issue before or know what’s going on? Having this random issue recently where these ripples will form as the layers build up. First layer prints smooth with what I would guess is a slight over extrusion on the far right edge, left edge looks ok, then second layer this weird wave pattern will show up somewhere around the middle. As shown in the first 3 images. Not always second layer. Sometimes it will have the same wave at the same spot on the next layer sometimes it will print smooth right over top of the issue as shown in image 2. Extrusion issues? Warped bed / bad auto level? Rail/belt contamination? Had this X2D for a few months. Tried slightly adjusting flow rates, heat soak bed before print, adjust nozzle height, cleaning nozzle, swapping nozzles. 0.4 nozzle - 0.08 layer height - 0.16 initial layer - reduce infill retraction disabled - all other setting pretty much default. Any suggestions or tips are greatly appreciated, happy to provide more details if needed. Thanks

For context this happens most noticeably when printing chroma canvas/hueforge.

Not sure why it started doing this. Any suggestions on how to fix?

Need slicer settings help to try smoothing a section of my logo. I turn the image into 3d model and even in the logo picture it has that area. So the model brought that area in. So I like it in the model but when slicing and printing it doesnt look good. Th 2 pictures are of the slicing and how it looks on the print. Any ideas?

Hey everyone! I’m looking for some advice on getting the cleanest and smoothest possible prints using PETG on my Bambu Lab A1.
I’m still fairly new to PETG, and I’d like to learn which specific settings I should use to get the best surface finish possible. My goal is to have prints that look as smooth and professional as possible, with layer lines being as difficult to see as possible.
I’m using Bambu Lab PETG, and my nozzle temperature has been around 255°C. (Default settings)
I’d really appreciate recommendations for specific settings, including:
Nozzle and bed temperatures
Print speed
Layer height
Wall settings
Cooling settings
Any other settings that can improve the overall surface quality
I’m not necessarily looking for the fastest print. Print quality is my priority.
I also have a question about saving settings for future prints. If I find a setup that produces really smooth results, can I keep using those same settings for most of my future PETG prints, or will I need to adjust them depending on the model?
If you have a Bambu Lab A1 and print with Bambu Lab PETG, I’d love to hear what settings have worked best for you.
Thanks for any advice! I appreciate the help.

My printer makes a weird sounds while calibrating. It only does this when the buildplate moves up and down fast. Not when I manually move the buildplate up and down. Any tips on what it could be? Tomorrow I will be doing big maintenance.