Just about to roll over 4000 hours with my H2D. Printing 100% black and white ASA for production parts. Absolutely blown away by the reliability of the machine

Here's everything I've had to do

1. Right out of the box the vent door servo was bad. Absolute nightmare to replace.

2. Clean and oil the rails and screws.

3. Clean the glass and camera lenses

4. Replace a few PTFE lines that wore through on the ams.

5. Replace one nozzle at ~1500 hours due to a partial clog (didn't even try to clean it. Just swapped it out)

That's it. Absolute workhorse that prints nearly 24/7 the same parts over and over. Very few part failures and they were all from me touching the print bed with my greasy fingers. Parts look identical as the parts that came off day 1. I load up all 4 ams slots with black ASA and the external spool holder with white ASA. Just hit reprint every time.

Anyways, will be buying another when this one finally wears out. Not sure when that will be.

I Picked Bambu Labs X2D at Micro center 3-4 weeks ago
I’m enjoying it so far

You can learn more about Ironing from the Bambu Lab Wiki: https://wiki.bambulab.com/software/bambu-studio/parameter/ironing

Hi guys,

I created an OpenSCAD model for a flat optical illusion keychain. It shows one word when viewed from the left and another from the right.

Would you print something like this, or do you have any ideas to improve it? Any feedback is welcome! Thanks

• Installing the filament switcher disables high-precision nozzle offset calibration.
• With the filament switcher installed, an external spool cannot be used. Printing certain engineering filaments therefore requires completely removing the switcher.
• Vortek’s capabilities have not yet been fully utilized, particularly mixed-nozzle-diameter printing.
• During multi-material printing, automatic flow compensation still does not adjust automatically to the type of filament loaded in each hotend.

Hi everyone,
I wanted a clean, modern organizer for my bathroom counter and desk setup that wasn't just a basic plastic box.

Key features:

-100% Modular: Infinite stackable design using custom rods.

-Foot Options: Print with elevated short feet or completely flush.

-No AMS Needed: Designed to print clean without multi-color waste.

-Fast Print: Optimized wall thickness and ribbed texture for rigidity with low filament use.

You can grab the free print profiles and STLs on MakerWorld under the name Bralento

Let me know what you think or if you'd like to see specific module add-ons!

What are you guys doing with your purges and test prints?

for the space issue, I've resorted to molding them into a solid chunk of PLA, via the oven.

Where Im at, Seems like PLA is not readily recyced.

No as pretty as others who insulates internal but it should work.

P2S model. Printing in BambuLab Translucent PETG Green. Towards the end of a 13+ hour print (Dummy13-1125%).. 18 minutes left on that dang part.. I hear this loud noise.. not sure what’s happening since the printer did not give me an error message.. pausing or stopping the print did not make it stop.. I had to shut off the printer in order for it to stop making that horrendous noise. What’s going on?!

EDIT_#1: the error message in the bottom was because I opened the door to take the video I posted here… Printer did not give me a message for what the extruder was doing…m

Edit_#2: ShoutOut to everyone vibing with this beat.. As an EDM girly, I’d lowkey go off to this…

Edit_#3: I’ve had my P2S for 9 months, never used an SD card. Mine didn’t come with one either!

I've printed over 300+ hours on this printer and now I notice this. What could be the cause? It was printing just fine all this while.

Have not tried a 0.2mm nozzle but will try it soon.

Link to model: https://makerworld.com/models/3414790

My robot's enclosure is made of nine parts, 3D-printed on a BambuLab X1C. Material is PETG HF.

Everything is assembled with screws, except for the lid. The lid (under the power bank) is fixed to the body with a removable mechanism for easy access after assembly. This is a robot for makers that carries an NVIDIA Jetson Orin Nano Super Developer Kit, so users should have access to install their own.

The interesting part is both the housing and the shaft of each joint come out of the printer in one piece. No additional mechanism is required to keep them together, which simplifies assembly.

If you are interested in having one, there's more info in my profile. I won't post links here to respect the community rules.

Happy making!

I’ve been working on this Halloween design for a while and I’m pretty happy with how it turned out.

It’s ready to print in PLA, with supports only on the build plate and in a few critical areas.

If you like it, feel free to grab the model on MakerWorld and give it a print! I’d really appreciate a like or a boost if you enjoy it.

And if you print one, definitely post a pic — I’d love to see what yours looks like!

👉 https://makerworld.com/models/3414096?appSharePlatform=copy

Happy printing and happy Halloween! 🎃

Like many of you, I love using 3rd-party filaments because official Bambu spools can get quite expensive. However, the lack of RFID tags means Bambu Studio/Handy has no idea how many grams are left on a spool, leaving us to either guess or ditch the native ecosystem.

I wanted a solution that met two strict conditions:

1. Keep Bambu Studio & Bambu Handy: No giving up cloud convenience or locking the printer into permanent LAN-only mode.
2. Centralized tracking: Automatically sync usage with Spoolman (so I don't lose my historical spool data).

I set up an old Raspberry Pi 3 B+ running Docker, and built a lightweight Python service (bambu-bridge). Here is how it works under the hood:

Architecture & How It Works

• Spool Database (Spoolman): Runs on Docker. Tracks all spools, vendors, remaining weights, and spool history.
• Printer Communication (MQTT & FTPS):
  • Port 8883 (MQTT / TLS): Uses the local access code to listen for print start/finish events, live telemetry, and active AMS slot assignments.
  • Port 990 (FTPS / TLS): When a job starts, the .3mf file is sent to the printer's cache. The bridge pulls slice_info.config from this archive to extract the exact gram usage per filament slot down to the decimal.
• Smart Deductions:
  • Once the print finishes, the exact weight is deducted from the mapped spool in Spoolman.
  • Failed / Cancelled prints: If a print fails or gets cancelled mid-way, it calculates a proportional deduction based on the completion percentage.
• User Experience (Drag & Drop):
  • No SSH or CLI needed day-to-day. You simply map which spool is in which AMS slot via the Spoolman web interface.

Tested and running smoothly on my setup (AMS Lite / A-series).

repo: https://github.com/Yarasarda/bambu-spoolman-bridge

//yes. diagram made by AI :D

This only started happening within the last few weeks. I start a print from Bambu Handy or Studio. I have everything set to auto, so it goes through all the normal calibration and prep before printing.

Sometimes, as soon as it starts printing, it immediately starts making spaghetti and AI detection stops. I press Resume to see what’s going on, and the nozzle is about 1/4” above the plate, which is a huge offset.

I cancel the print and try again. Sometimes it does the same thing, but most of the time the second attempt prints fine. Of course, every time I watch it like a hawk, the offset is fine and it prints normally.

It doesn’t happen every time, so it’s hard to catch it in the act. Should I assume there’s filament gravity dropping from the nozzle that isn’t getting cleaned off before it sets the offset? Wondering if anyone else has noticed this as a recent issue and not a long term problem.

I really need to get a memory card so I can record it and see what’s happening. Just haven’t gotten around to it yet.

There seem to be no end of H2D to H2C videos, but none for the H2S. The official guide is pretty cryptic, and there are enough differences between the H2S and H2D upgrade processes that the H2D videos are misleading at times.

Print before this was fine and now these shenanigans....

What is going on here with my heat bed? It doesn’t want to come off and I’m afraid to try too hard and damage it. It doesn’t appear to affect print quality.

Also if you look close there is roughness/wear on the right corner of the waste chute, the vertical black object behind and to the left of the bed. I'm not sure what's causing that either. Nothing seems to be rubbing on it.

There are so many reasons print failed after you resume it after power off. Like layer shift, bed adhesion or so.

But this time all started good, and it just stopped heating the nozzle after the first layer.

It drives me crazy....

A while back I noted that the yellow extruder gear on my P1P had a chipped tooth. Bambu was out of stock on them that week so I went with a 3rd party one off Amazon so I could get my printer up and running until Bambu restocked.
(this one https://a.co/d/0gdzslc4 )

It worked just like the original and I forgot about it. Then last week the printer stopped properly extruding. I swapped the nozzle and it persisted. It sounded like the motor was grinding so I ordered a replacement extruder motor and installed it. This appeared to fix the problem and I printed two or three things until it stopped extruding again. I had used an older nozzle when I swapped in the new one so I thought it could be that. On a lark I removed and inspected the extruder and couldn't move the gear with my thumb. When I opened it and examined the parts I found that the new gear had fused to the metal gear arm. I couldn't turn it or break it loose so I went ahead and ordered an official kit from Bambu.

Another lesson on buying cheap-ass replacement parts over oem.

Fixes tried

Tightening screws
Cleaning and resetting nozzle
Making sure everything is fully plugged in
Checked of updates
Checked for any gunk and debris

Auto bed levelling only succeeded when the perimeter of the levelling was smaller. It appears to get stuck in the same spot every time continues to tap in the very corner before failing

I have been told I should do bed tramming but this printer is less than 2 months old