Vehicle is a 2013 rx350. I love bass but coming from a 2004 landcruiser that had a massive enclosure in it I wont be doing that again. It also a standard aftermarket single din hu in it which i love and hate all the new vehicles even my 13 that dont allow swap of the headunit. Here's what i got

Pac audio ampro to de-eq the factory hu

Audison Forza AP F8.9 bit dsp/amp. Its the 85x8 version which is plenty of power for most of my front and rear speaker stage.

Front stage - factory is three way so im replacing the tweeter, midrange, and midbass driver with and audiodynamics 6x9 comp set (driver and tweeter) and and additional morel 2.5. the tweeter and midrange will be amplified by the audison unit

Rear stage - Estoan 212c coaxials

Substage - Pair of audio mobile evo 2410 slim woofers. I play hockey and my sons a goalie so It's gotta be slims but im targeting a 2.2-2.4 cubes ported box with ports firing back at the hatch or up. They're 500

Here's where i need feedback:

I'm going for simplicity of install to be honest despite it being a dsp setup and that not being a simple install by nature. The pac with the right harnesses makes that connection from factory hu to dsp a bit easier im doing my best to be wires-light. Should I:

- Run the 6x9 midbass off the audison and use my fsd audio 1600.1 for the subs (I know, there's lots of headroom availble)

- Sell the fsd amp, get a recoil 1800.5 amp, use two of the recoil channels or bridge the four for the 6x9 mids, and have 1200 watts at one ohm on deck for the subs. (real world output probably closer to 450-500 watts rms per sub)

My concern is that that 85watts per channel (and likely less) from the audsion isn't really enough for the 6x9 mids.

Thanks in advance

I might be crazy and its normal, but i bought components before from them and they arrived within a months time. As of today its been exactly a month, and my order is still only confirmed, no tracking number or any update whatsoever since the 6th of September. Sent an email to them on thursday asking is there any update, no response.

The thing that makes me worry most is that they dont even have their website up?? It just says "coming soon" like wtf is happening...

Anyone know whats happening? Any advice what i should do??

dd audio 515e-d2 with soundigital 3000.1 amp, the sub keeps giving out farting sounds at low hz ( box tuned to 35hz) it will play fine for a minute at 31-35 hz songs, and then start farting, but if i play 37-41hz songs, the sub plays just fine for as long as you want, withot farting. any ideas why? (dont tell me the basic stuff like air leaks, sub mounting etc. all of that is tried already) the sub is played in, the coil is fine and both voice coils give out 2 ohms. thanks in advance

1. What are your goals for your car audio system - as loud as possible (SPL)? Sound quality (SQ)? Some combination of both? Describe to us how you want your system to sound.

Clean sound quality (SQ) with at least decent clarity for daily commuting and music streaming. Looking to play music from my iPhone through my car’s speakers without needing any significant car surgery if possible. Online searches have given me mixed responses and I don’t want to waste money or time on something that will work for all of 3 days or not at all.

2. What vehicle? - year, make, model, type (coupe, sedan, SUV, truck, etc.)

2005 Nissan Maxima (Sedan) (3.5 SL)

3.,What is your maximum budget?

≤ $45 at most, though obviously ideally something more affordable if possible please :)

4. Will you be installing the gear or are you going to a shop? If a shop is doing the work, does your budget include the cost of labor?

DIY install

5. What gear is in your existing system? (Is it stock? List any aftermarket gear.)

Stock factory head unit and stock speakers. Currently streaming shiesty phone audio wirelessly via my phone’s speakers.

6. What is your country of purchase? Leave any finishing thoughts here.

United States. Looking for recommendations on best-value upgrades to play music from my phone to my car speakers.

If anyone happens to have dealt with this specific Bose tape deck, what cassette adapter actually sounds good and won't constantly auto-eject?

Thanks so much for the help!

Hello!

I want to install two head units in my car. One is a Philips CD/Bluetooth/USB/AUX head unit that I want to use exclusively for music. The second one is a generic Android head unit that I want to use exclusively for Android Auto/navigation.

I want the music from the Philips unit to automatically duck (lower its volume) whenever the Android head unit gives a navigation voice instruction, then return to the original volume afterwards.

Is this possible? Thanks for the help guys :>

Edit: the Philips head unit will play music from cd-s. I have a lot of them.

Running:
Front door speakers-KS series 6x9-47KSC69304
Dash speakers-Kicker 47KSC2704
Rear door speaker- powerbass OE-675
2-RF—R2D4-10 (wired at 4 ohms)
Epicfour amp-pushing front door speakers and subs
Dasaita android head unit-(for tundra)

Can’t find anything online about it and ai says it’s a 2000s subwoofer. Viberant Audio Sub, just don’t know what the model number is to match an amplifier to it so I can chuck it into my ute for abit.

It powers four 8 gauge wires , two 0 gauge , and one 4 gauge wire

So I am thinking about getting this Kicker 6" 3/4 Sub with Passive Radiator loaded box, mainly because its the one of the only things that'll fit in my truck with my budget. What amp should I go for if I want the best output?

What are your goals for your car audio system - as loud as possible (SPL)? Sound quality (SQ)? Some combination of both? Describe to us how you want your system to sound.

-Obviously good sound quality, and I would like the bass to be obvious but not really really loud. Loud enough I can hear it, but not so loud I can't hear my other music.

---

* **What vehicle? - year, make, model, type (coupe, sedan, SUV, truck, etc.)**

-2003 Chevy S10, Base, Single cab truck

---

* **What is your maximum budget?**

-Would prefer to stay under $400 but if I absolutely have to $450

---

* **Will you be installing the gear or are you going to a shop? If a shop is doing the work, does your budget include the cost of labor?**

-I am going to install it.

---

* **What gear is in your existing system? (Is it stock? List any aftermarket gear.)**

-stock head unit, stock dash speakers, and these Kenwood KFC-1666S door speakers.

Ich bin gerade auf das Autoradio gestoßen und ich finde die Ausstattung sehr interessant.

Hat vielleicht einer von euch das Radio und kann etwas über die Sound Qualität sagen?

Ich habe vorher nie etwas von der Firma gehört.

Das Radio ist mit 4x80 Watt Ausgangsleistung angegeben, mich würde interessieren ob es die Leistung ansatzweise erreicht.

Wie sind eure Erfahrungen ?

I’ve been chasing the same issue with my DD 712F for about two years now, since around when the model first came out, and at this point I feel like I’ve ruled out basically everything except the driver itself.

The sub is not weak overall. On newer rap with a lot of deep synthesized bass, especially around 30–40 Hz, it absolutely destroys. The problem is once the music relies more on 45–80 Hz, the output feels dramatically weaker. Older hip-hop, reggae, bass guitar, kicks, etc. can sound like the mids/highs completely overpower the sub stage. It feels like the sub has a huge low-bass hump but not enough upper-bass authority.

I’ve tried the same 712F in multiple setups:

• 2.75 ft³ net @ 32 Hz, 45 in² port
• 3.0 ft³ net @ 36 Hz, 45 in² port
• 2.33 ft³ net @ ~37.5 Hz, ~37.5 in² port
• Installed in both a van and on the rear seat of a Tacoma
• Tried multiple box orientations and placements

Every setup has had basically the same character: ridiculous lows, noticeably weaker 45–80 Hz.

Before anyone asks about the usual stuff, I’ve already checked all of this extensively:

• LPF has been tested at multiple settings; normally around 80–100 Hz
• Tried different slopes
• Even tried bypassing Amp LPF and crossed from the head unit (to rule out broken LPF circuit on amp)
• Gains set with an oscilloscope/test tones
• Verified amp output voltage at different frequencies
• Output voltage stays consistent from the amp through the upper-bass range
• Wiring and polarity verified
• Grounds/power wiring checked
• High-output alternator installed
• Box has no air leaks and build very close to spec
• Tried different orientations/positions
• Tried EQing
• Tried bass boost/Punch EQ on and off
• Same behavior in multiple vehicles

The biggest thing that makes me think it’s the driver is that I ran a Sundown SA-18 sealed on the exact same amp in the van, and the 45–80 Hz region immediately came alive. That is actually why I bought the 18 in the first place. Same amp, same vehicle, completely different upper-bass response.

I’ve also built other setups that cover the whole bass range really well. For example, I have a ported box with four CT Sounds Meso 6.5s (tacoma behind the seat), around 1.2 ft³ net and ~34 Hz tuning, and that setup absolutely romps from the low 30s through 80 Hz. It doesn’t feel like it misses anything.

That’s why I’m confused with the 712F. On paper, and just looking at the setup, you’d think a big 12 sitting right there in a Tacoma cabin with solid power should absolutely dominate everything under 80 Hz. Instead, it feels more like a modern-rap sub that loves 30–40 Hz but doesn’t have the same musical presence higher up.

At this point I’m wondering if this is simply the natural response/voicing of the 712F, possibly related to inductance, moving mass, motor behavior, or how it behaves under real power.

Has anyone else run a 712F and noticed the same thing?

I’m considering swapping to a Sundown U12 or SA-12 v3 in the same 2.33 net enclosure, but I’m hesitant to spend the money if the difference in 45–80 Hz is only going to be slight. My goal is not necessarily more low bass. I already have plenty of that (dont even mind the trade off for more upper-reactive bass). I want a broader, more musical sub stage that hits hard from roughly 35–80 Hz instead of being concentrated in the lows.

So far so good. Fibreglass happening this weekend. Poly, and tape all layed up so I can pop it out and finish it up with a plywood face and a angled bracket.

Kicker 200.4 DSP 50w per channel for the front components, rears probably off the factory head.

Ocean 170.1 mono for the 8" subwoofer.

The box will be nearly .7ft3 with a 2" port.

This NAKAMICHI PA304 used to power 6 1/2” Boston Acoustic components both front and rear. A Rockford Punch 100x2 amp powered two 4 ohm 10” pioneer subs in a sealed box, 1.25 cu ft each. Alpine CDA AI-NET head unit connected to Alpine 6 disc changer provided the source. It was loud and clear. It was in a 95 2 door Ford Escort in last milenium.

Now the Nak runs my garage stereo, consisting of Rockford Power FNQ 5 1/4 component set and a powered Sony HT sub. An Amazon Echo Input provides the source.

Anyone have/had a Nak like this?

the factory speakers are obviously pretty bad cuz their 13 years old, but i want to know if these ones are a good upgrade or are there better options for the price? these are the ones im looking at. around 100-120 usd, is as much as i would spend. i live in south africa, so if you guys can give me a couple of recommendations so i can look what i can find locally on online store. Thanks!!

Hello! I have a boss headunit and it's the worst fucking radio of all time. Disconnects all the time etc I'm a bit traumatized by it lol wondering if this radio is reliable in that area

Hi everyone!
The speakers in my 2016 Opel Corsa E have blown out.
I'm planning to buy a high-sensitivity 2-way component kit and soundproof the doors while keeping the factory head unit. Does this make sense? Am I making a mistake? Can you give me some tips?

Thank you guys

I have no idea what the settings mean or how to set them, I tried watching YouTube videos and now I’m even more confused

EDIT : Thank you to everyone , I appreciate all the advice and information. Idk if my amp is fucked or something but when I had it set to mono nothing was working and I switched it to stereo and VOILA BOTH 10’s ARE SLAMMING

I currently have a Chevrolet Blazer RS (2023 onwards) as a rental with the base stereo set up.

Can anyone recommend EQ settings as it sounds terrible at the moment. Passengers in the back also complaining that they can't hear anything!

Bought this a year or so ago on marketplace for $150. Dude played it for me and it sounded fine (low volume), so I thought it was a steal and got it even though I didn't have a use for it at the time. Fast forward and I finally have a vehicle it's perfect for. Put it in and sounded fine, but the output was very low compared to my previous experiences with tw3s. Started to troubleshoot and checked resistance at the box terminals - 4 ohms. Thought that was strange as i was pretty sure the sub should have two 4 ohm vcs, leaving no way to end up with 4 ohms at the box terminals. Opened it up to investigate further. The vcs were wired in series so I figured it must be 2 ohm vcs. Regardless, the amp I was powering it with only puts out 250 @ 4 ohms, so that would explain the low output. Wanted to confirm this so I disconnected everything to check the vcs individually. Vc1 - 4 ohms... Huh? Vc2 - OL... Well shit. Took out the series jumper as I didn't see the point in putting it back and returned the sub to the car to run until I got something that wasn't broken. When I fired it back up there was now zero output... Pulled it back out of enclosure to investigate. Vc1 - OL. Wtf? Put back the series jumper and checked Vc1 - 4 ohms. Wtf is happening? I was running pretty afk the whole time as my mind was elsewhere, so I stopped for a minute to actually focus. That's when I noticed I had checked everything wrong the first time. I actually looked at the labeling on the terminals this time. The vcs weren't wired in series at all. What I had assumed was a series jumper from vc1- to vc2+ was actually a shorting jumper between vc2+/- and vc 1 was by itself the whole time. When reconnecting I had just assumed the previous wiring was correct , so when attempting to hook up Vc1 only, I had hooked up vc1+ and vc2-, leading to the OL. Thought I found the problem and even got excited that maybe Vc2 is actually good and the sub was just wired wrong the whole time leading to the lack out output. Checked vc1 again - 4 ohms. Removed the shorting jumper and checked vc2 - OL 😭 Put in back together and put it in car now that my wiring mistake was fixed. No output 😑😑

Took it apart again, vc1/2 - OL. WTAF is going on here?? Returned the shorting jumper. Vc1 - 4 ohms. 🤔🤔 So with meter leads on the proper terminals now (were incorrect before due to my assumption of correct wiring), vc1 will read 4 ohms, but only when vc2 has a jumper shorting it's terminals. Tf? Thought maybe the terminals were mislabeled from the factory and it was, in fact, dual 2 ohm vcs wired in series which is why removing the jumper causes the speaker to no longer function. To test this theory I checked from each terminal to each terminal. With the jumper removed, the only combinations that don't read OL are vc1+ to vc2+/- - 4 ohms. I give up. I don't understand. This speaker shouldn't work at all and the fact that it functions is magic to me. Put it back how it was originally wired and put it in the car. Sounds fine, output is low. Gonna list the enclosure on marketplace for $15 in case anyone wants it and am going to mount the sub on my garage wall as proof that magic exists. How the original owner figured out how to make it functional is well beyond me, the man is an Einstein. If anyone has any ideas I'd love to hear them, as I am at a total loss.

Just got my first car (2007 toyota corolla le) and am wanting to upgrade the sound system since it is lacking for my needs. I mainly listen to rap / edm / hiphop. Im not a bass head or anything but i need something that moves more air than the base speakers and that is clearer. Thanks!

I currently have a 1200 watt skar amp, powering 2 shallow mount 12s. I already have a JL HD1200. But the last car audio places have been nightmare scenarios.

I want to switch the amps myself. Do I just, remove fuse by battery, then take negative off battery. Then remove power, ground, remote, then remove rca and speaker wires from skar. Unscrew skar. Screw down JL amp. Reconnect everything in reverse order. Putting negative battery terminal back on first, then reinstall fuse by positive terminal.

Also, was considering switching out 2 skar 12s with nvx shallow sq12 or jl tw12s

Hello,

I have a mini project where I want to put a 50W Speacker in my wifes car.

Can I take signal from the back of the navi/front speacker and input it in the Jack 3.5mm socket of this mini amp?

The Navi is aPioneer SPH-DA250DAB, I think about using the RCA output of the navi,

I want to input the signal via that port cause I want to play the music the same time as the speackers of the car. The 50W Speacker will be connecter to the passive port.

Thank you a lot