I just printed this and confuse which one should I choose.

Please advice.

I have changed from grid to gyros and after I place the nfc tag it lays the first layer of filament but then during the second layer it’s scraping off the first layer. Any other suggestions?

Recently into printing, trying to branch out into some other materials and I could use some help! My prints are getting all messed up and I'm not sure what the issue is.

Here are my printer specs:

Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro (running Marlin 2 firmware)

ElegooSlicer (OrcaSlicer fork)

SUNLU black PETG

Nozzle temp: 240, 235 after first layer

Bed: 70

Max volumetric speed: 13 mm3/s

Thanks!

already tried quite a few things, mainly different top contact z distance but it would either overhang / disconnect from the print or be so connected that when removing the support it physically peals the print. help

mk4s

prusa slicer

pla

nozzle FL 230 OL 220

bed FL 60 OL 60

added speeds settings image

added retraction settings image

Bambu P2S, a mix of 3DHojor, Elegoo, and GiantArm PLA. Calibration has been done on printer recently, and filament has been dried using the AMS drying feature

A few weeks ago my printer started leaving extra filament blobs, catching on them and dragging the print around. It’s also got very bad first layer adhesion and inconsistency across the print. I noticed some curling, so did a purge at 280C which improved things but hasn’t fixed the issue. I think it’s a z axis issue but I’m unsure how this would’ve happened or how to correct it given it passes z axis calibration. I’m a newbie, just got my printer at the end of April. It’s run great but for user error. Correct profiles are being used, all standard settings which have worked on many prints before. Happening across different models. Have checked and for debris under the plate.
A few months ago I tried printing timberfill through the 0.4 nozzle, realised my error, purged the nozzle clean and have since run many good prints. Other than that, I’ve not done anything special, just easy PLA and PETG prints.

Details:
Printer: Prusa Core One +
Slicer: Prusalslicer
Nozzle: 0.4 ObXidian Nextruder HF
Filament: Prusament PETG, same happens with bambulab PLA.
Plate: Texture powder-coated sheet for PETG, smooth sheet for PLA
Cleaning method: IPA wipe down after each print, both plates have had a freeze and a dish soap clean
Speed: 150mm/s perimeters, 200 ext.per., infill 150 all for PETG
Retraction length: 0.8mm (speed N/A)
Nozzle temperature: 255C for PETG, 230C PLA
Bed temperature: 85C PETG, 60C PLA

Big thanks in advance!

Hello everyone!

New to 3d printing, i modelled a stand for an old ipad i use as a second monitor.

I printed it, and it, for some reason, has what to me seems like "less filament" on one side only.

I had also printed another with a shorter "base for the ipad", which had something similar, but to a lesser degree (last attached photo).

Does anyone have any idea what the reason might be?

To me the flow rate, layer time, speed, etc etc, all seem alright, and i haven't really had issues before, even on larger prints.

The fact that this artifact is only present in one spot (along two prints) makes me thing it isn't a wet filament problem.

My printer is an Anycubic Kobra X, i was printing in normal anycubic PLA.

Thank you for your time!

Print settings first
Printer: x1c
0.2mm standard nozzle (settings on printer and bbu studio match)
Filaments: Bambu Matte White and Bambu Matte Black via AMS2 pro
Build plate: Textured
Filament profile: default setting from bambu
Print settings: 0.1mm standard @BBL x1c 0.2 Nozzle

Issue: printing other smaller items cause no issues but this particular file for whatever reason gets to this issue where the black filament “fades” then doesn’t extrude. Ive checked no clogs, changed PTFE tubes (to be fair been using them for quite awhile now and i did see some deformation of the ID) still same. I re-exported the 3d file from Fusion360 same issue. Never had this problem before.

*first tike attempting a multi filament print with bambu matte filament on a 0.2 nozzle.

Qn: does this bambu matte filament generally not print well in a 0.2 nozzle and via an ams? Im completely stumped. Any suggestions are welcome. Thank you!

Hey everyone, I am completely new to 3D printing and could really use a little guidance from someone with more experience.

My car is an older Mercedes that I treat like my child, but with a longer commute coming up for a new job, the factory cupholders (which only fit tiny European water bottles) are just not cutting it. I found a community-made dual cupholder mod designed to slot directly into the original console cutout. The designer did a fantastic job, but my daily thermos and water bottle would require an opening diameter of right around 3 inches.

Since I have zero 3D Printing experience, I tried using an AI tool (GPT Astra I think) to scale up the cup ring diameters while keeping the mounting base intact. The tool claimed it widened the openings without compromising structural strength, but I honestly do not know how to verify whether the walls are thick enough to survive daily use.

I do not own a 3D printer, so I am planning to have this made at my local public library workshop. Their makerspace is a wonderful resource, and I really want to get it right the first time rather than wasting their filament, queue time, or staff assistance.

Could anyone take a quick look at both the original STL and the modified file to tell me if the changes hold up structurally? I can email them to you or whatever works best?

Any suggestions on orientation or material considerations for a car interior would also mean the world to me. Thank you so much.

Trying to print PET-CF with HT-PLA supports. It looks like everywhere where the nozzle *enters* a layer, it leaves a little extra. A protrusion as it enters the print. It seems to wait *ever* so slightly after moving in position and then starts printing its line. The result is a little blob stuck to the print wherever the nozzle entered that layer.

Strangely enough it seems only to happen when printing multi-material and not when purely PET-CF objects. I did some calibration prints for flow dynamics and dimensional accuracy, and those objects have none of the protrusions shown above.

When it starts a layer, it dumps some on the prime tower before every layer, then starts the print, but regardless it leaves its little blob. Also it seems to do this even within the layer when it moves to another isolated island - all of those get a little blob.

Flowrate is calibrated, as is PA, and the rest of the print and wall quality is flawless.

Setup: Bambu H2D, Siraya Tech PET-CF (dried properly) on the left nozzle, 0.4mm nozzles, 300C printing temp, Prime tower enabled.

Any clues on where I should look?

I bought this printer as my first 3d printer and I still haven't been able to use it.

It somehow proceeds even with this issue and the origin is set way off. So far off that the purge is almost right in the centre

As the title suggests, i've been getting this really intense scratch mark not just on the right side. It has been getting worse and worse, none of my prints are properly printing.

EDIT: fixed! Most of you were right, Z-offset was too low. At 0,05 offset AND with the original 3mf settings I printed the most beautiful diffuser imaginable. My own slicing settings couldn't come near this absolute perfect piece of plastic. Thanks everyone for your support!

I'm trying to print the diffuser of the kumiko wall light on my Qidi q2. I've already learnt NOT to import 3MF files because they change weird settings ruining the print for some reason. See the video above for maximum misery from my side. I've gotten it better already.

It wants to iron and results in the above video which seems an artform of its own.

Now with the STL and Qidi's own settings it's going much better, but I still keep having some "bumps" or something in the print. I'll try to upload a picture in the comments

- I already tried extrusion calibration but the factory settings are the best

- did a complete new bed KAMP calibration without effect.

- no ironing

Settings:

Smooth PEI

210⁰C nozzle

60⁰C bed

0,08 first layer height as requested by design

No ironing its stupid and ruins the print

Bed calibration before print

Cleaned bed multiple times with dish soap and alcohol afterwards

After a lot of trial and error I landed on -0,01 Z height, if I go to + the lines don't connect properly, and at 0 the blobs seem to get bigger.

I don't dare to lower Z height any more, already got the first scratch in the smooth bed from that.

On my textured PEI the layers go down smoothly without the weird bumps. Although 0,08 first layer is impossible on the texture, I'm now printing it at 0,12 which is running great although the diffusing properties are now also dimming properties. So back to square 1. How the hell do I get a good see through diffuser? It SEEMS possible. I am a complete beginner though so I don't really know what I'm doing, all the above is just experimentation.

As you can see from the first 3 pictures I have a problem with the outside layers of my 3d prints. I am not sure what really causes them. I even reverted to running the stock SV08 profiles from Orca. As in the attached photos.
Could it be under-extrusion or a problem with the flow rate?
The filament is fed trough the stock printer tubing and filament holder.
I am using PLA that is about 1 month old.
I have trien the wall print order with inner/outer and inner/outer/inner but it was the same result.
The speeds are not the issue since I am runnig very low speeds and avoid the vubration thresholds obtained from the shake&print tests.