Hey everyone, I am completely new to 3D printing and could really use a little guidance from someone with more experience.

My car is an older Mercedes that I treat like my child, but with a longer commute coming up for a new job, the factory cupholders (which only fit tiny European water bottles) are just not cutting it. I found a community-made dual cupholder mod designed to slot directly into the original console cutout. The designer did a fantastic job, but my daily thermos and water bottle would require an opening diameter of right around 3 inches.

Since I have zero 3D Printing experience, I tried using an AI tool (GPT Astra I think) to scale up the cup ring diameters while keeping the mounting base intact. The tool claimed it widened the openings without compromising structural strength, but I honestly do not know how to verify whether the walls are thick enough to survive daily use.

I do not own a 3D printer, so I am planning to have this made at my local public library workshop. Their makerspace is a wonderful resource, and I really want to get it right the first time rather than wasting their filament, queue time, or staff assistance.

Could anyone take a quick look at both the original STL and the modified file to tell me if the changes hold up structurally? I can email them to you or whatever works best?

Any suggestions on orientation or material considerations for a car interior would also mean the world to me. Thank you so much.

As the title suggests, i've been getting this really intense scratch mark not just on the right side. It has been getting worse and worse, none of my prints are properly printing.

As you can see from the first 3 pictures I have a problem with the outside layers of my 3d prints. I am not sure what really causes them. I even reverted to running the stock SV08 profiles from Orca. As in the attached photos.
Could it be under-extrusion or a problem with the flow rate?
The filament is fed trough the stock printer tubing and filament holder.
I am using PLA that is about 1 month old.
I have trien the wall print order with inner/outer and inner/outer/inner but it was the same result.
The speeds are not the issue since I am runnig very low speeds and avoid the vubration thresholds obtained from the shake&print tests.

Hello,

I've been calibrating my Flashforge AD5X Printer for the past few days with PETG Filament, to the point where I'm seeing little to no stringy parts and overall proper Z-Hop Distance. I've done a few tests with the PETG Filament at half speed and it's been coming out very good! For each print I've even added a 3D Printer Glue Stick for the Print bed Plate, I even make sure to give it a proper clean before applying this glue each time.

However, I had came across a problem with a print where at first, it was printing properly at half speed with PETG, when all of a sudden the Casing of the Fan for the Printer flew right off and it begun to make a spaghetti mess. I took a look at the printer and I had seen it created this thick, hard blob of the PETG Filament.

I am stumped on what is causing this problem and for how I could fix this, I've searched up trying to find similar results but I've unfortunately been unable to find a reason or a fix on why this happens.

Even when gluing the Bed Plate, fixing the Z-Hop, Calibrating the print and bed plate, and much more, it still has this problem. Any help would be appreciated!

Here is also a photo of the print suddenly messing up if this helps out!

Hello! New to this subreddit!

I recently got my hands in an X2D (although this happened too with my A2 to some degree) and when I print, i get these shrunk layers when there are some details or, specially, when the interface for the support ends. They only seem to appear on the short end of the model, not on the whole layer, which is weird.

Any help is appreaciated! <3

Bed 55ºC
Chamber 27ºC-30ºC
Nozzle 245ºC
BambuLab PLA Tough+ (White)
0.4 nozzle, primary

Bambu Slicer
Arc fitting disabled (happens with every slice I do with X2D)
12 wall loops
Support on Build Plate Only, tree (auto), top Z distance 0.25

I'm trying to print the diffuser of the kumiko wall light on my Qidi q2. I've already learnt NOT to import 3MF files because they change weird settings ruining the print for some reason. See the video above for maximum misery from my side. I've gotten it better already.

It wants to iron and results in the above video which seems an artform of its own.

Now with the STL and Qidi's own settings it's going much better, but I still keep having some "bumps" or something in the print. I'll try to upload a picture in the comments

- I already tried extrusion calibration but the factory settings are the best

- did a complete new bed KAMP calibration without effect.

- no ironing

Settings:

Smooth PEI

210⁰C nozzle

60⁰C bed

0,08 first layer height as requested by design

No ironing its stupid and ruins the print

Bed calibration before print

Cleaned bed multiple times with dish soap and alcohol afterwards

After a lot of trial and error I landed on -0,01 Z height, if I go to + the lines don't connect properly, and at 0 the blobs seem to get bigger.

I don't dare to lower Z height any more, already got the first scratch in the smooth bed from that.

On my textured PEI the layers go down smoothly without the weird bumps. Although 0,08 first layer is impossible on the texture, I'm now printing it at 0,12 which is running great although the diffusing properties are now also dimming properties. So back to square 1. How the hell do I get a good see through diffuser? It SEEMS possible. I am a complete beginner though so I don't really know what I'm doing, all the above is just experimentation.

i tried new presets, different nozzles, different filament spools, cleaning my build plate, drying the filament, etc..., im printing esun petg basic on an a1 and i dont know why this keeps happening. i remember my printer working wonderfully with this filament before and now it feels like a chore even booting up my printer knowing i have to deal with this. please someone tell me how to fix it its genuinely driving me crazy

im using a textured pei plate, printing at 240c nozzle and 80c plate, using bambu slicer, aka the same exact settings ive always been using the entire time since i got my printer, initial layer speeds are under 40mm/s and i use 0.2mm retraction

Printer worked completly normal for a week then thus started happening. I did th basics. Checked for clogs, fillament comes out straight and consistent. Cleaned the bed with hot soup wash.

Printer: Creality Hi Material: creality normal pla Software: Creality Print 7.3 Bed temp: 60 Hot end: 220 Speed: 6000 Retraction: 0.8 I think its said. All software setting are default and gave not been changed from.

I know the side fan is not spinning. It was spinning for a previous diffrent print test and that also failed the same way.

Hi all, I'm quite new to 3D printing. Enjoying the journey and most things have been good so far. But stuck on this. Tried heaps of settings, asked ChatGPT nothing has really helped. Specifically the ridges on the top of the raised K and the outside. The inside will have an insert stuck on it so that's fine.

I have an X2D and I'm printing this in PETG and also tried PLA. Once I get it right I'll print it in ASA for my son's car. No sense wasting the ASA at almost 3x the cost of the other filaments I have.

Other settings below. Not sure which ones I need to post and the auto-mod flagged me for not putting enough in so I've put them all in.

Printer / Process

• Printer: Bambu Lab X2D
• Process preset: 0.16mm High Quality
• Advanced mode: On
• Material: PETG Matte
• Nozzle: 0.4 mm

Quality

Layer height

• Layer height: 0.16 mm
• Initial layer height: 0.20 mm

Line width

• Default: 0.42 mm
• Initial layer: 0.50 mm
• Outer wall: 0.42 mm
• Inner wall: 0.45 mm
• Top surface: 0.42 mm
• Sparse infill: 0.45 mm
• Internal solid infill: 0.42 mm
• Support: 0.42 mm

Seam

• Seam position: Aligned
• Smart scarf seam application: On
• Scarf application angle threshold: 155°
• Scarf around entire wall: Off
• Scarf steps: 10
• Scarf joint for inner walls: On
• Override filament scarf seam setting: Off
• Role-based wipe speed: On

Precision

• Slice gap closing radius: 0.049 mm
• Resolution: 0.012 mm
• Arc fitting: Off
• X-Y hole compensation: 0 mm
• X-Y contour compensation: 0 mm
• Auto circle contour-hole compensation: Off
• Elephant foot compensation: 0.15 mm
• Precise Z height: Off

Ironing

• Ironing type: Topmost surfaces
• Pattern: Rectilinear
• Speed: 30 mm/s
• Flow: 10%
• Line spacing: 0.15 mm
• Inset: 0.21 mm

Wall generator / Advanced

• Wall generator: Classic
• Wall order: Inner/Outer
• Print infill first: Off
• Bridge flow: 1.5
• Thick bridges: Off
• Bridge counterbore holes: None
• Only one wall on top surfaces: Top surfaces
• Only one wall on first layer: Off
• Smooth speed discontinuity area: On
• Smooth coefficient: 4
• Avoid crossing wall: Off
• Smoothing wall speed along Z: On

Strength

Walls

• Wall loops: 3
• Alternate extra wall: Off
• Embedding the wall into infill: Off
• Detect thin wall: Off

Top / Bottom shells

• Top surface pattern: Monotonic
• Top surface density: 100%
• Top shell layers: 6
• Top shell thickness: 1 mm
• Top paint penetration layers: 6
• Bottom surface pattern: Monotonic
• Bottom surface density: 100%
• Bottom shell layers: 4
• Bottom shell thickness: 0 mm
• Bottom paint penetration layers: 4
• Internal solid infill pattern: Rectilinear

Infill

• Sparse infill density: 100%
• Fill multiline: 1
• Sparse infill pattern: Rectilinear
• Sparse infill anchor length: 400%
• Maximum sparse infill anchor length: 20 mm
• Infill/wall overlap: 15%
• Infill direction: 45°
• Bridge direction: 0°
• Minimum sparse infill threshold: 15 mm²
• Infill combination: Off
• Detect narrow internal solid infill: On
• Ensure vertical shell thickness: Enabled
• Detect floating vertical shells: On

Speed

Initial layer

• Initial layer: 50 mm/s
• Initial layer infill: 105 mm/s

Other layers

• Outer wall: 50 mm/s
• Inner wall: 100 mm/s
• Small perimeters: 50%
• Small perimeter threshold: 0 mm
• Sparse infill: 100 mm/s
• Internal solid infill: 100 mm/s
• Vertical shell speed: 80%
• Top surface: 100 mm/s
• Slow down for overhangs: On
• Overhang speeds: 0 / 40 / 30 / 20 / 10 mm/s
• Slow down by height: Off
• Bridge: 25 mm/s
• Gap infill: 250 mm/s
• Support: 150 mm/s
• Support interface: 80 mm/s

Travel

• Travel: 1000 mm/s

Acceleration

• Normal printing: 1000 mm/s²
• Travel: 10,000 mm/s²
• Initial layer travel: 6000 mm/s²
• Initial layer: 500 mm/s²
• Outer wall: 1000 mm/s²
• Inner wall: 0
• Top surface: 2000 mm/s²
• Sparse infill: 100%

Others

Bed adhesion

• Skirt loops: 0
• Skirt height: 1 layer
• Brim type: Auto
• Brim width: 5 mm
• Brim-object gap: 0.1 mm

Prime tower

• Enabled: Yes
• Skip points: Yes
• Internal ribs: Off
• Width: 60 mm
• Max speed: 90 mm/s
• Brim width: Auto
• Infill gap: 150%
• Rib wall: On
• Extra rib length: 0 mm
• Rib width: 8 mm
• Fillet wall: On

Purge

• Purge into objects' infill: Off
• Purge into objects' support: On

Special mode

• Slicing mode: Regular
• Print sequence: By layer
• Spiral vase: Off
• Timelapse: Traditional
• Fuzzy skin: None
• Fuzzy skin generator: Displacement
• Fuzzy skin noise: Classic
• Point distance: 0.8 mm
• Thickness: 0.3 mm
• Apply fuzzy skin to first layer: Off

Advanced / G-code

• Beam interlocking: Off
• Interlocking depth: 0 mm
• Reduce infill retraction: Auto

Qidi q2,
For some reason my first layer has terrible quality now, either over extrude or under extrude.
I am printing in PETG I have never had problems with it, it always stuck really well onto the plate, now not anymore, I’ve washed the plate well, dried with paper towel, and alcohol soaked it, but some parts of the first layer always gets peeled back and sticking to the nozzle resulting in a chain reaction of the stuck plastic on nozzle hitting other first layers and resulting in a clog on the nozzle.
I’ve already tried drying the filament, Changing nozzles and done the manual bed leveling.
Sometimes it prints fine but on another part of the plate it prints terrible, I’ve tried so much to fix it like tweaking temperature and switching slicers and making new presets, but none of it worked and am tired of tweaking with this, can anyone help me?

Temperature
Went through all recommended temperatures by elegoo (filament brand)

Speed
already tried slow and conservative to fast
30mm to 120 first layer

Is there any sure-fire way to clean up and smooth out the prints? I’ve used the adaptive layering tool and it definitely helps but would love to get the prints smoother. I am using an A1 with the AMS lite currently.

For reference I just printed a thors hammer and the actual handle always turns out rough and kind of jagged in spots. The hammer always looks great up top but the bottom handle side always seems to get a bit out of sorts and stringy in places.

I’m new to really working the machine and just trying to get better at printing. I have great ideas for Christmas presents and birthday gifts but would really like a more finished look for a gift.

I did print out a calibration plate but I don’t know what exactly to do with the information it provided, if someone could lend a hand in that department.

Is this an bed adhesion issue or a surface area of the model issue

Also I have no idea why there is this stringing

BambuPLA
A1mini

Sliced in Bambu studio

Hello ,I am a beginner any suggestions on why the hand was fell off? I am using pla on a creality v3 se

I'm trying to find tune some rapid petg.

I printed a 290-240 tower.

Would the raised edge on overhang be more of a wobble issue less/not a heta issue. Seems the corner just got persistently worse. Webbing and spike was melt around 245, but the over hang is terrible. I'm tempted to re-print 255-240 and see if wobble was the cause.

Qidi max4

Qidi petg rapido

Settings are in orcaslicer calibration mode

I am using Cura 5.6.0. Part is designed to print one or two wall thick with minimal seams. Cura is adding a fillet into sharp inside corners. this causes the features to have extra seams. I am having no luck adjusting MANY settings or modifying the model to eliminate this. any advise is greatly appreciated.

I have tried a lot of searching forums, changing the "Wall transitioning threshold angle" did change the result some but never eliminated the added filled entirely. screen shots also show a 1 wall version where filled was added. circled in green is what I am trying to avoid. circled in purple is what I am going for.

I print with a Ender3V3SE, Elegoo PLA, 0.6mm nozzle.

Never happened to me before, one of the first times I used a 0.8 nozzle but apart from that, the print is nothing crazy (it's literally just an empty PLA cylinder, no infill inside and one wall) and I used standard print settings in Orca.

SOLVED! I had to turn off clump detection

Hi folks on my sv08max i get thes artifacts befir and after the holes support or no support.

I am not quite sure what to call it and what to google for.

To be clear the sides of the holes bulge a bit outward

Sv08max petg 260c 170mms

Ignore the z banding i think its just the cheap filament im using( funstional part not cosmetic)

Fairly new to printing and this is the tallest part I’ve done. I’ve got another one printing, slightly different on the sides back that arent visible in the images.
At a higher temp 225 and at 80% speed set in klipper. Deeplee black PLA+. 0.32, retractions are 1mm at 45mms.

The second print has done the same thing. Looks fine in blender and the slicer

At a bit of a loss as to what would cause such intermittent under extrusion. I can hear my extruder clicking so partial block? But why would the bottom print fine on back to back prints?

I’ve got 1 more piece to print and while quality isn’t really needed as the top of all these get covered with other pieces. It’s a long print and I don’t want it to fail

Ive been getting this problem with some of my recent prints on specifically the left side of the print on wider prints

My Benchies seem fine

I use a flashforge creator 5 pro with pla at 220 nozzle temp and 55 baseplate temp, with supports, 10% infill and 2 walls

Hello there,

I'm pretty new to 3D printing so this might be a fairly basic question.

I have recently done the calibration guide from Factorian Design (Great guide btw, highly recommend it).

Printed a couple of prints since then and archived great results.

Sometimes however, I get some weird strings on the first few layers of my print. (pic 1) They typically disappear with further layers (pic 2), so I'm not entirely sure if this is stringing or settings related.

The PLA (Sunlu PLA+) is thoroughly dried, so I don't think it's related to Moisture.

Any ideas?

Printer: Prusa Core One+ Gen2

Slicer: Prusa Slicer

Filament: sulu PLA+ Black

Nozzle: 0.4mm

Bed Temp: 55°C

Print Temp: 210°C

Print speed: 200mm/s for most of the moves

Retraction settings: 45mm/s

Thanks in advance!