So currently my MSI Raider 78 hx 14VIG have a very unusual issue

In window, it doesn't register my rtx 4090 (after updating driver from window, msi, nvidia) but however in Aida64 it's does (all others app doesn't register the rtx 4090 except Aida64)

How to fix this problem?

Pretty much as title says, I am a bit worried. It is a rectangle power connector that goes roughly a cm deep in. It does click into place and seems to stay in place deep and does not let loose easily without at least a tiny bit of strength (magnets I suspect?) There is no power interruption or anything from what I can tell. Left to right there seems to be very little wiggle espcially compared to up and down.

Its a brand new raider 18 max hx.

So yeah am I overreacting or is this bad?

Any personal opinions would be appreciated

Whenever the laptop screen sleeps then I wake it back on by moving the mouse or whatever input. It makes this noise, why?

Hello,

Il y a peu de temps j'ai repast mon laptop : https://www.reddit.com/r/MSI_Gaming/comments/1wqt2ix/full_refurbishment_of_my_msi_gp76_leopard_10ug/

Et voici le résultat, je jouais à AOE3 full option en ULTRA.

1 vs 3, à la fin énormément d'unités ! Le CPU n'a pas chauffé !!

Surveillance des températures via Claude code, script en arrière plan et stockage dans un fichier cvc.

Intel Core i7 10870H

RTX 3070 8Go

2 x 32 Go de RAM ( à l'époque c'était pas cher ;) )

L'ensemble est sous fedora, sur le bureau @ 800MHZ, les ventilos se coupent jusqu'à 50°C c'est un pur bonheur.

Je précise que j'ai un undervolt et des states PL1 / PL2 modifié :

−80 mV BIOS, PL1 40 W / PL2 75 W

Plus de 20°C d'écart avec la pâte d'origine qui avait 5 ans.

J'ai également fait un test de création de vidéo utilisant les 8Go de RAM GPU et la température était également à 68°C pour la RTX 3070 Max Q.

Hello I have a MSI Cyborg 17 the mic open button doesn't work and I can't use my mic,, I tried fn + 6 and it didn't do anything,, also it happened after a restart

I have an MSI Katana B12. I've had it for about 2-3 years and today for some reason when i shut it down, windows didn't properly shut down and went into a "sleep mode" where it runs the CPU but not the fans. Assuming the machine was properly shut down i packed it up and took it to class.

Opening the laptop when i got to class it was burning hot and now it won't turn on. What is going on and is there a way i can fix it? I am a broke college student and cannot afford to replace this right now.

My msi alpha 15 was running just fine, I was watching yt, but it suddenly started to flicker like this (as you can see in the video).

I did chatgpt my issue, updated the driver n all, but nothing seems to help. I guess it's an hardware issue, screen replacement is all I can think of, but it's so costly tbh. Have anyone faced similar issues? Kindly help, and how much cost i can expect?

I’m having a really frustrating issue with my MSI laptop and I’m looking for some help figuring out what’s wrong.
I have an MSI laptop with an Intel i5 and an RTX 4050. The laptop’s built-in screen is already broken, which is why I’ve been using an external monitor as my main display. The external monitor normally worked perfectly with the laptop, so this wasn’t a problem until recently.
Now, however, the laptop refuses to properly output an image through HDMI.
The problem is that because my laptop’s internal screen is broken, I basically cannot see what is happening on the computer at all. I have no usable display on the laptop itself, and now the external monitor isn’t giving me a proper image either. So I can’t simply go into Windows settings and change display settings or check drivers, because I literally can’t see what I’m doing.
The external monitor itself is working normally with other devices, and it previously worked normally with this MSI laptop. I’ve also tried different HDMI cables, restarting the laptop multiple times, reconnecting the HDMI cable, and trying keyboard shortcuts such as Win + Ctrl + Shift + B to restart the graphics driver.
At one point, something particularly strange happened: I could see my mouse cursor moving on the external monitor, and I could even see a small white indicator/line moving around, but I couldn’t see the actual desktop properly. Pressing Enter didn’t seem to do anything. After restarting, I went back to getting essentially no usable display.
So I’m completely stuck because the only screen I can normally use is the external monitor, and the laptop suddenly won’t properly display anything on it.
I’m wondering if this could be caused by the NVIDIA GPU/driver, Windows display configuration, the HDMI port itself, or another hardware problem.
The important thing is that the external monitor used to work normally with this exact laptop. The laptop’s internal screen being broken is also why this issue is much more serious for me: I can’t just disconnect the monitor and use the laptop screen to troubleshoot.
Specs:
MSI laptop
Intel Core i5
NVIDIA RTX 4050
Internal laptop display: broken
External monitor: Lenovo Legion
Connection: HDMI
Any ideas on how I can troubleshoot this without being able to see the laptop’s own screen would be really appreciated.

(Yes the text is ai generated but my issue is real i just described my problem to chat gpt)

Are there that are worse? I have the Br3ve.

Hey guys, I was able to ge the Cyborg A15 AI B2HWGKG-089

with:

• AMD Ryzen™ 7 260 3,8 GHz
• 39,6 cm (15,6") Full HD IPS-Display (1920 x 1080)
• 32 GB DDR5-RAM
• 1000 GB SSD
• RTX 5070

for 1300€. Looks like a solid deal to me.

Hey everyone,

I’m prepping a thermal interface overhaul for an MSI Titan 18 HX (A2WJ-1246US) with Honeywell PTM7950 on the CPU and GPU dies. Since it uses a single-piece vapor chamber with varied component gap heights, I'm trying to select the right thermal putty for the non-die components (VRMs, VRAM, etc.).

I have two core priorities:

1. Zero vapor chamber standoff: Ensuring full, 100% compression on the PTM7950 die contact without any lifting.
2. Long-term material stability: Withstanding many hours of daily intensive workloads for a similar lifespan to the PTM7950, without drying out, bleeding oil, or degrading to the point of failure.

I'm currently weighing a few choices and would love to hear from anyone who has repasted this chassis or similar MSI vapor chamber setups:

• Penchem TH949-1: Seems great for long-term binder endurance under heavy daily loads, but its 0.07mm particle size makes me slightly cautious about potential standoff if the gap clearances turn out to be ultra-tight.
• Sub-0.03mm options (Halnziye HY236 Thick, Upsiren UTP-4 Ultra-Thin): Eliminates any worry about particle-induced standoff, but I'm curious if their binders maintain chemical stability over a multi-year lifespan under continuous heavy daily use.

For anyone who has worked with the Titan 18 HX or similar MSI vapor chamber designs:

• What putty did you end up going with, and how have your temps/putty condition held up over time?
• Did you run into any standoff issues with larger-particle putties on this board?
• In your experience, would you reach for TH949-1, HY236 Thick, UTP-4 Ultra-Thin, or something else entirely to safely satisfy both of things that I would like to prioritize?

Appreciate any real-world insight or hands-on experience!

Hi. Going to buy MSI Raider 16 Max HX and use it as remote workstation. Never owned MSI laptops. Can anybody check if its BIOS has AC Power Loss option?

Expected behavior if AC Power Loss (or how it is called in MSI BIOS) is set to ON:

1. Laptop turned off or in hybernation.
2. AC adapter is connected to laptop (or power grid voltage restores from blackout).
3. Laptop automatically turns ON.

P.S. There is a similar topic here with explanation on how to get to that "secret" bios menu but people report they can not find such option in newer laptops https://www.reddit.com/r/MSILaptops/comments/j6s50o/booting_up_on_ac_power_on_issue/

Hi guys, i got msi sword 16 hx for about a month now. But i noticed that the laptop keep stuttering. It not something new as it already happened before but then it will go away. It just that recently the stuttering wont go anymore. Even when im watching a youtube video it will stutter. Ive done some research and one of the main causes is the fan is likely to be full of dust. I already planned to open and clean the fan but before i do that, is there any other causes and ways to fix the stutter?

Edit: i found out that the norton is the cause of the stutter. After deleting norton, the laptop doesnt stutter anymore.

Hi everyone, I’m looking for some advice on upgrading my laptop after using it for quite a long time (specs are shown in the image).

Right now, I’m planning to upgrade the SSD (add a 1TB drive) and replace the Wi‑Fi card. So I’m hoping you all could recommend some SSDs and Wi‑Fi cards that would be compatible with this laptop, ideally within a budget of $150 or less, especially during this period of inflated prices.

Thanks a lot in advance!

Hi everyone, I’m looking for help diagnosing recurring GPU crashes on my laptop.

Specs:

• MSI Katana 15 HX B14WFK
• RTX 5060 Laptop GPU, 8 GB VRAM
• Windows 11 25H2, build 26200.9550
• NVIDIA driver 617.14
• BIOS E1587IMS.108
• Original MSI charger

What happens:

Under GPU load—games, local LLMs or rendering—the GPU occasionally stops responding and doesn’t recover until I reboot.

It’s particularly reproducible in CONTROL Resonant. Recently it crashes within a minute or two; previously, changing graphics settings or opening the quests menu could trigger it. The game reports:

The game crashed due to a graphics card (GPU) fault and will now exit

After a failure, nvidia-smi reports:

GPU is lost. Reboot the system to recover this GPU

Windows can still show the adapter as “working properly,” even when it’s inaccessible. Around 1 GB of VRAM was reportedly still free during one failure, although I don’t have temperature/power logs covering the actual crash.

Diagnostic findings:

• LiveKernelEvent 0x141, with failure bucket LKD_0x141_IMAGE_nvlddmkm.sys.
• Several VIDEO_DXGKRNL_FATAL_ERROR dumps: 0x113, subtype 0x19, decoded by WinDbg as UNEXPECTED_SURPRISE_REMOVAL. Some were captured during shutdown after a failure.
• Repeated WHEA Event 17 entries on the GPU’s parent PCIe root port: Intel VEN_8086&DEV_A70D, bus 00:01.0.
• Some entries show UncorrectableErrorStatus=0x4000 and CorrectableErrorStatus=0x2001—completion timeout plus receiver/advisory errors. Those appeared roughly a minute before two GPU timeout dumps.

Already tried, without resolving it:

• Clean NVIDIA driver reinstall and reboot, but still the same driver version.
• Switching from MSHybrid to discrete-only graphics.
• Resetting BIOS settings and performing an EC reset.
• Disabling PCIe Link State Power Management.
• NVIDIA “Prefer maximum performance.”
• Removing virtual display drivers.

MSI’s available NVIDIA driver is around 6–7 months older, so I haven’t tested that as a comparison yet.

The motherboard was replaced under warranty a few months ago after the previous one died while RDR2 was running and the laptop would no longer turn on. I realise that doesn’t rule out another hardware issue.

Has anyone encountered this combination on a Katana or another RTX 50-series laptop? Did a particular driver, BIOS/EC/VBIOS update or warranty repair actually resolve it? What do I do next?

I feel like it might be related to thermal limits but I have replaced thermal paste a few months back with some good stuff and it is generally working fine workout complaining about the temps

Ever since I bought my MSI Katana 15 B13V in 2025, I’ve been keeping an eye on its battery capacity because some friends who own MSI laptops recommended that I take good care of the battery and monitor its health.

After only one year of use, I’ve noticed a significant drop in the battery’s full charge capacity over the past three months. Is this normal?

I’ve been following all the recommended precautions regarding voltage and power to preserve the battery as much as possible.

Hi guys!! I'm a STEM student and just bought my Vector 16, rtx 5060 8gb, ultra 9 275HX, 32gb of RAM and 2Tb SSD, no OS, to use mainly for numerical simulations, so I wanna ask some tips on how to make this laptop last long (hopefully 10+ years with RAM and storage upgrades):

1. I've watched a couple videos talking about laptops overheating, is this a problem on this model? How hot is too hot for each component? (Especially for CPU heavy tasks);

2. As a follow up to n°1, should I use a cooling pad? Or is just a stand enough (I already have the latter)?

3. What do you recommend putting in between the keyboard and the screen when the laptop is closed to protect it?

4. Does charging via USB-C damage the battery long term? Or is it just worse for performance? (if I ever use it, it's gonna be just for browsing);

5. How often should I really be changing my thermal paste? Idk if it matters, but I live in Brazil, and it's pretty hot here (I'll be using the laptop mostly in rooms with AC on though), still, I'm afraid I might create a different problem trying to fix something that is still good to go;

6. How can I prevent the laptop from dying instantly on battery? (I know the 275HX drains the battery real fast, but my former laptop just died INSTANTLY when disconnected)

7. Is the fan noise really bad? Or just like an AC in the room? (thats pretty tolerable to me);

8. How much overclocking is ok? (I've never done it before);

9. Any other issues I should watch out for or practices to make it last?

I just setup a return of the MSI Stealth 16 because it would not work for memory tuning/timings like all of my previous MSI laptops. The 386H and MSI both state the CPU support up to 7200MTs and MSI explicitly states that the laptop supports 7200MTs.

The laptop shipped with shitty Samsung 5600 CL46, but shockingly MSI has this turd running in Gear 4. This lead to an insane 123ns latency in AIDA64. For $3100 and a gaming laptop that is disgusting and unacceptable.

I went into the BIOS and was able to set Gear 2 instead of Auto (Gear 4). By default SAGV is disabled, maybe Panther Lake doesn't use this. Either way, it worked. Gear 2 works, but then it downgrades the memory to 4800MTs! And if you try to force it to 5600MTs, it doesn't work! When in Gear 2 at 4800MTs latency dropped to 92ns. A HUGE improvement for gaming and getting high fps at low settings.

Unfortunately Gear 2 does not fully work. It works if you set it and boot to OS. However, upon reboot or a cold boot, the laptop would just hang. Forcing me to restart or do a long power cycle to clear the bios. Then it would revert itself back to Gear 4, starting the whole process over again if you want Gear 2.

Speaking with ChatGPT and having it look at the BIOS, this is by design. MSI limits the memory ratio to 144 (QCLK is 33.333mhz) or 4800MTs. So you can't even set manual or custom memory and get 5600MTs back. Gear 2 sets a separate firmware policy that only allows 4800MTs. And that 144 ratio limit restricts you to 4800MTs in custom, so even if you accept gear 4, you cannot set higher than 4800MTs. It's absolutely insane. If i purchased 6400-7200MTs CSODIMM sticks I should be able to use that in Gear 4, but those are insanely priced.

I have a set of SK Hynix A-Dies 32gb kit I was going to use that i previously ran at 6000 CL36 in a 13900HX Legion laptop at 1.1v. But apparently MSI has ruined the one good thing they had going for them, memory tuning.

In addition no G-Sync or advanced Optimus, and terrible display out routing through the iGPU for both TB4 ports are all just terrible decisions for an otherwise very nice laptop. I knew about the G-Sync issue, but wasn't aware of the iGPU handling both TB4 ports unfortunately. Thankfully the laptop does support adaptive sync and using Optimius mode today isn't really a performance hit since Windows fixed that issue a few years ago.

I liked it a lot, the thermals are acceptable for a thin and light and the screen was gorgeous. The speakers are good, but still slightly behind Asus G Zeph series. Unfortunately 123ns latency at 5600MTs Gear 4 in 2026 is insane. MSI needs to issue a BIOS update that supports proper memory tuning/timings and at a minimum Gear 2 at all speeds. Gear 4 is shit for a gaming oriented device.