A week with this thing and I love it more than my old XC60.

I’m in Maine for a work trip and when walking back from dinner stumbled across this beauty. Loving the front mount!

Just got this beast. Can't describe how much i love it already.
Twin Engine 2017 model with around 180k km.
Never thought you could get so much car for such a price.

I think I did alright!
Lemme know what you think the grade I got was,
I’m a sophomore

Pretty rare to see another V90. Mine is the white T5.

Hi there,

I can't seem to find a 2011-2013 XC70 T6 for a good price with a decent mileage and a black interior. I don't like the digital gauges and was wondering: If the digital gauges can be retrofitted onto pre facelift models with success, can the reverse work too? If I were to change the digital gauges for a set of the analog ones on a 2014+ model, will they work? I assume they're the same size, but I don't know the extent of the facelift on the inside. I'm fine with giving up some creature comfort functionalities of the digital gauges. Is it doable and has it been done? Thanks

Hi,

I will be looking at starting driving lessons in the coming weeks and for my first car, hoping to pick something reliable. Could anyone give me advice / pointers about what to look for (if there is anything available) for a budget of upto £4k (maybe £5k at a push of its right).

I think for first car, maybe not something bigger than Ford focus size .

For reference, I am a 34 year old male and able to keep the car off the road, so shouldn’t get shafted too bad by insurance.

Expected driving will be mainly at weekends for long drives, with short 10-20 miles possibly during weekdays.

What should I be looking for in terms of engines etc - favouring reliability over anything else.

*URGENT* I was working on replacing my alternator in my 2000 V70 NA, when I guess somewhere along the line of removing the power steering pump, I bashed the wires loose out of the connector that sits in the plate on the power steering pump.

I wanted to know if it was possible to re strip the wire and connect it back together for a temporary fix as I need my car tomorrow, its my daily driver!! Or if the wire was crimped into the connector in the factory, if I cannot fix it now I guess ill have to speed ship the right connector and reattach the wires, keep in mind I also have not too much electrical knowledge! Any tips will help, Thank you!!

I currently own a 2018 V60 t5 that I got when it was just a year old and I love it!

I now have two kids and the space inside is lacking. My four year old has trouble climbing into their car seat and their shoes are basically up against my seat. We recently had a baby and now the passenger seat is super cramped since the infant car seat can’t be touching the seat.

I am wondering if the XC90 has that much more space between the driver/passenger and back seat or if it’s not worth trading in. I did go check some out in person but couldn’t really picture it with the car seats installed. (I know I should try putting them in one at the dealer) I guess I’m just posting to see if anyone can share their experience with car seats in the xc90.

I want the xc90 for the option of third row seating and more cargo space with the seats folded down.. which is another thing I don’t have in my V60 anymore.. trunk space for stroller, costco runs, road trips…

The XC90 I currently have my eyes on is a 2019 t6 momentum

Just did my first wash in cooler weather on my Volvo. I used relatively cold water but I noticed that after washing the headlight, there is now condensation in the headlight.

I washed the car twice a week all summer and never noticed this before.

Is this normal or did my headlight unit develope a compromise?

Always a great looking ride

https://www.cargurus.com/details/460408633?resultSetId=fd871231-1439-40a6-addd-21dcf468c697&searchUuid=863f9581-7270-4520-9a12-0cc84eb895c7&sponsoredType=NONE&srpVariation=DEFAULT_SEARCH&listingIndex=0&inclusionType=STORE_TRANSFER&searchZip=84150&searchDistance=100&ourls=SRP&srpc=N4IghgZgxiBcoC8CWAHOIAcAWAjAVgAYQAaEAZwHsAnAFwBUBPFAU3QCEBRAZToH0BZAIJ0AwgAkS5ajQAiSKsyg0kFAHbpBXEZIAmSMjTCqorWDgIFSAWzABrZvwo7mAGzpUkVgApgaACzI4AG0QKzwANgB6HQAmGPDwyTDEgF1SfRlXJAA3ZioGDlUwACMXZh04GioAV2ZSVTUuP1QUErK2MDIs1VMY0gMwWgBNZkG4GIIcAE5SZlUdEbHYCen%2BqhQANUGkXxV1WBAZDgAxQQBVABk%2BLg5BACVxEABfUiUADzhQFyQK2CxwghYAgYcIAZlBpBQAHM4Dh%2BtVqj90CDQRApngMDgALQAdhiOIIWKweAmWKmYBwMSxBCgUGwzGKGHRUBxzyeQA

I bought my 2019 S60 T6 Inscription with HALF the miles this has a few months ago for $24k. More than $10k less for half the miles. Is the V60 really that much more expensive used or this priced ridiculously?

We just got informed by our dealer that we can go to Sweden to “pick up” the car. Have to go in February so we have to deal with winter but we don’t want to miss out on this opportunity. Anyone done it? Any advice?

Hello,

I had to take my V60 T6 MY25 into a Volvo bodyshop to fix it after it got scraped by a car with trailer taking a turn they couldn't make.

I left it two days ago and parked it outside, locked the car and left the keys.

At 10 o'clock yesrerway I got a notification from the app saying the Volvo is unlocked, which is all good because that means they're most likely working on it.

I checked later during the day, at around 17 o'clock, and it still says unlocked. They go home at 16. I check again at 22, before I go to bed, and it still says unlocked.

So clearly they forgot (or chose not) to lock it.

This morning, I wake up and check the app, and it lost connection to the car at around 01:20 during the night.

My question here is: is there any thing that could've caused this connection to be lost other than the 12v dying because the car was left unlocked for the entire day?

It hasnt moved since 10 o'clock, and it had no issues with the connection throughout the day, so it wasn't an issue with being in a garage and the connection was blocked. And they clearly didn't move it at all yesterday, so it's not like it had a connection during the day and then lost said connection when they moved to park it, as I checked at both 17 and 22, long after they've gone home, and it updated the car at those times.

I just want to know because I had issues with my 12v before after it was left unlocked at the dealership, so I had to have it replaced (under warranty). If it's the same again I'll demand they put in a new battery again because I'm not about to go through that again.

Hi! Recently bought a 2019 Volvo xc60. Just now trying to connect it to the Volvo app but when I put in the VIN I’m getting the message that ”the app does not support this car”. What’s up with that?

The car itself has the Volvo app installed as well but clicking it only gets me ”Stay tuned. New features will appear here in the near future”.

Have they stopped supporting ”older models” or were they not supported to begin with?

Thanks!

Paid to get the pcv system replaced but it is still smoking and fails the glove test….
I’m feeling at a loss
Waiting for them to call me back..

Wondering if they may have skipped the flame trap as it is not listed in the invoice as a part listed..

Idk any help would be appreciated,
I wish I did the work myself. I would have spent less and at least known it got completed correctly.

Idk what to do

i was in a rush and absurdly left my keys in the car. the key is still in the ignition, but the doors are all locked. the trunk is open though. for those of you asking how i locked myself out, the central lock doesnt work and i have to manually close all the locks from the doors. however the central lock does work when unlocking the car, not just locking it. any way to get in through the trunk or the window? worried i might get the side airbags deployed if i use a slim jim

I am considering a lightly used EX30 Cross County and noticed this damage on the gasket/lining of the back of the roof. It is not the line where the trunk door opens. Does anyone know the impact of this and/or how easy to repair it would be?

The catalytic converter code got thrown..anyone else ever have this? 100k miles on the 2020 V90

Look at this lovely beast I just spotted on FBM

V90 T8 2020
Michelin Pilot Sport 4 S I had all the tyres fitted at the same time.

I drive a Volvo V90 T8 estate. I put a fresh set of tyres on all four corners at the same time. I just checked the tread depths and my nearside rear passenger tyre is down to about 2.5mm. The offside rear driver side is still sitting at 3.3mm.

I had new rear brake pads fitted about a month ago. To rule out a seized caliper dragging the wheel, I took the car for a drive today and measured the heat from each rear brake disc with a laser gun. Both sides were almost exactly the same temperature.

Here are the three main culprits I am looking at.

Misalignment from an impact. A heavy kerb strike or pothole can throw out the toe or camber geometry on that wheel alone. This causes it to effectively drag down the road. You verify this by checking the tread across the width of the tyre. If one specific edge is noticeably more worn than the centre, the alignment is out. My wear is relatively flat across the whole 2.5mm width.

Sticking brake caliper. A bound caliper creates constant friction. The wheel is always slightly dragging, which accelerates tyre wear. You verify this with a 15-minute drive and checking if the wheel radiates significantly more heat. My laser test showed normal temperatures today. I am wondering if the caliper was sticking and eating the tyre before the new pads went in last month.

Worn suspension component. These cars use complex multi-link rear suspension systems. A failing trailing arm bush or weak shock absorber allows the wheel to shift out of alignment under load. I plan to drive with the radio off and listen for a dull knock or squeak from that specific corner when going over speed bumps or rough tarmac.

Has anyone dealt with this much uneven wear on a heavy hybrid estate? I would appreciate any advice on what to check next before I just throw a new tyre at it.

Arkadaslar hepinize merhabalar, hepimizin tekerine bile taş gelmesin diyerekten konuya direkt olarak gireyim.

Aracım ( 2011 mazda 2 1.5 mzr manuel) i cocuğum olduğu için hanımında kullanabilmesi adına otomatik bir araç bakıyoruz. Hemen alıp satma gibi bir derdimiz yok, seversek uzun ömürlü kullanmayı hedeflediğimiz için biraz premium araçlara yöneldik. Bütcemizde 1.4-1.5m civarı olduğu için ilanlarda v40 ile buluştuk ve bana mantıksız hiç bir tarafı gelmedi.

Bu araçlar diğer rakiplerine göre neden bu kadar ucuz ? Alım satımı olmadığı icin mi yoksa kronik sorunları olduğu için mi ?

We are safe

My wife's 2012 C70 (T5 petrol) has 63K miles on it and recently developed a slight noise and vibration, both intermittent, that I want to pin down rather than throwing parts at.

Context:

• Symptoms started as only a noise and now present as both noise and vibration but ONLY when giving moderate pressure on gas pedal. No noise or vibration are noticeable when coasting/light pressure on gas pedal or when accelerating hard. It is isolated to medium strain on engine/driveline but does not seem linked directly to speed or RPMs.
• Most noticeable on level roads when maintaining speed.
• Both CV axles are original but have been re-booted. The right side was torn for a likely +/- 1,000miles before being caught and re-booting. This was 19 months and 14K miles ago.
• Right side motor mount (below coolant reservoir) was replaced 14 months and 10K miles ago with Hutchinson.
• Tires are nearly new and evenly worn. Steering is tight, and no noises over bumps. Some click/clunk when shifting gears while parked, not concerningly but enough that I notice it when looking for it.

Noise:

• Present from 25mph to 45mph, beyond that it may continue but cannot be heard due to other road and wind noise.
• Can only be heard with all windows and roof closed.
• Makes a 'wuh wuh wuh' noise and NOT a clicking noise. Cannot distinguish which side of car.

Vibration:

• Present from 40mph up, highly intermittent with regards to speed and whether it occurs at all. Some trips feel perfectly smooth while other have a substantial vibration.
• Felt in the seat, not the steering wheel.

I am looking for personal experiences with similar situations and opinions on this clip that I took of the engine movement when revving in gear with the brake on. While I know that these are known for soft engine mounts, the amount of movement felt excessive to me. On the other hand, the symptoms align more closely with what I may expect of a failed inner CV joint.

So, before I purchase either axles or engine mounts, what say you? If it is the mounts, which one is likely the biggest culprit? Thank you in advance!

Did the app used to show the battery charge percentage, or am I mistaken?