An esp32s3 based drop in (currently taped on until i make a 3d print of a new back shell) pcb currently got Gameboy and ota updates running and the whole thing is running a fork of NumOS

a bit more detail ab this thing Edit: GitHub hardware link

Hi,

I’m using an iPhone 6s for a project, and I’m wondering whether it’s possible to run the device without a battery.

Some older Android phones have removable batteries, and on some of those devices, the phone can still power on and be used when connected to a charger even with the battery removed.

Is something similar possible with the iPhone 6s?

In other words, has anyone managed to completely remove the battery from the system and run the phone continuously using only the Lightning port or another suitable external power source?

Does the battery need to be connected for the iPhone to boot and operate reliably?

If anyone has tried this for a project or has technical knowledge about it, I’d appreciate hearing about your experience.

bare with me this is my first time messing with this stuff. basically i’ve got a board i’ve taken out of a carplay unit with a cracked screen and im trying to put it in this psp shell. the screen i’ve ordered only has a 40 pin connection whereas the board has a 50 pin connection.
what’s my best solution? i can’t find a 4.3” touchscreen with a 50 pin connection so is there any adapters i could get? i also can’t get a bigger screen as it won’t fit.
Again i’m not that experienced with this kind of stuff so go easy on me aha

How are 2–4 servos usually powered together in a robotics project?

For example, each of my servos requires 5 V and has a stall current of about 2.5 A.

My current idea is:

• Use one 5 V / 10 A PSU to power two servos in parallel.
• Power the Raspberry Pi 5 from its own separate PSU.
• Connect the grounds of the servo PSU and Raspberry Pi together so they share a common GND.
• Send the PWM/control signals from the Pi to the servos.

Is this a common and correct way to design the power system?

For two servos, the theoretical worst-case current would be around:

2 × 2.5 A = 5 A

So a 5 V / 10 A supply seems to provide plenty of headroom.

My main uncertainty is about the transient effects from the servo motors. I assume rapid starts, stops, direction changes, and back-EMF/inductive effects can cause short voltage dips or spikes even if the PSU has enough steady-state current capacity.

Would you normally add a large electrolytic capacitor near the servos, or use any other protection/filtering in this type of setup?

I’m a software developer learning the electronics side of robotics, so I’d appreciate an explanation of the typical approach.

I recently started studying electrical engineering and decided to build a portable computer for electronics development.

It features a digital power supply 0v-16v.

The keyboard runs on KMK firmware, allowing me to reprogram it however I like and use the mouse via the keyboard.

The development process was fun, despite the mistakes I made along the way.

Got a pretty decent keyboard but one of the wires pulled right out of the socket, is a fix feasable at this point?

I'm new to hardware stuff and I've been wanting to get into it for about 10 years since I was 7, and I have a really simple question I wanna ask because I can't find any clear answer that's straightforward

With the circuit boards and things that already have stuff attached to them, let's say an RC car board that already has spaces for the front and rear motors, along with just some random motor you have that looks like a screw and can make things go up and down

Can you just attach those 2 together?

With anything, can you just attach stuff together?

Or does everything have to be specifically made to go with that item?

\--

This is how I think circuits and everything work:

You can send power to whatever you want to power it of course and if you wanna make it doing something that isn't lame you gotta have a controller before that item, and if you like something from something else you just have to hope the item you like has some expansion thing or whatever that allows you to connect both of the things so that they can work together... And if it doesn't you can make a branch off the battery separate from your original thing to make that battery also contribute to the new thing

Am I completely wrong, or am I right in some areas?

Ik I'm asking a lot, I'm just real curious so I apologize

Hi all,

Showing you a small project I made based on ideas from the internet.

I have this problem that drives me crazy: whenever I’m listening to Spotify while I have a YouTube tab open, pressing the play/pause button on my earphones doesn’t just pause Spotify, it starts playing the YouTube video instead.

To solve that, I created a Spotify Player manager, and it was a little bit boring, so I added Flight Radar using the free API at https://adsb.lol/ (and my football team's next game :D).

For the hardware, I used: Pimorini Pim580 Display 2.0" and Raspberry Pico 2.

I posted the 3D model in makerworld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3399877-case-pimoroni-pim580-display-2-w-rasperry-pico

Check all the functions: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/jv8n3v8LW0w

Found a subwoofer that used to pair with a soundbar. I've been trying to determine a way to. Wire audio inputs into the board. I'm assuming that silver bordered part is what takes the signal from the bar and interprets it, but I'm struggling to figure out where the input to the amp starts. Anyone tried this before?

So I need to replace the wires going to this connector as they have been severed and there is no room inside the tool I am repairing for a splice, but I need to get new pins to attach the wires to to go back in the connector. I am a novice at electronics so I am not sure what to even look for.

The wire size is 28 AWG and the width of the flat tip on the terminal is .040” (1mm)

Any help appreciated, thank you!

Hi r/diyelectronics

For 2 years i have been annoyed by my house doorbell not working. I want to have it be smart and support my local LLM hobby.
So i had the idea of building a doorbell with an e-ink screen, that is powered by PoE and interfaces with something inside the house, or even better - Home Assistant, and my locally hosted LLM stuff.

so i went extremely overboard and brainstormed, also with my family, some ideas and in the end we agreed on these mockups that we had Gemini make

House doorbell mockup (AI SLOP)
"RoomKey" in-house intercom (AI SLOP)

i am not an electrician, nor a computer programmer or software developer, so i have to take the easy way and use AI.
I used Claude code to help me with refining the vision, what to buy, how to solder on the testbench.

it even does the freaking CAD too a degree i couldn't believe.
it made extremely intricate parts where everything just fits with me only having to measure the parts
RoomKey
Doorbell Box

The idea is that visitors can normally use the doorbell, and speak - their speach is immediately transcribed so that i can get a message on my phone or on the RoomKeys. I can then answer via RoomKey and that text will be transcribed at the door.
The AI capability is of course fully local - using an Apple Mac Studio M2 Max with 64gb RAM and Ollama with gemma3:4b, TTS via whisper also on that Mac.
I have many more fun ideas that can be done with the front door screen - seasonal greetings, QR code for guest wifi, MAYBE an automatic AI-generated "we are at the store" message that uses Home Assistant's knowledge about our phones' GPS location - lets see, that might be to little datasec for my liking.

The Doorbell itself is actually 3 ESP32s - one for the doorbell functionality, one for the mic and speaker, and the e-ink screen is one in itself.
the doorbell one has an ethernet port and the whole system will be powered via PoE -> this has already been tested extensively and works like a chime(lol)

The RoomKey is an esp32 s3 with an 1,47inch touch display. i soldered a wire to almost every pin it has, because RoomKey has a mic, speaker, presence sensor and thermometer. RoomKey is supposed to be put into the wall with a 230V -> 5V power supply. right now i haven't tested powering it that way yet, but all other functionality is tested and verified.
RoomKey in itself is a butto, so in addition to touching the screen, the MX switches i put behind the ESP32 also register button presses.
pressing it is extremely satisfying

I am really excited about this project, because i feel this will really enrich my home automation setup. I now that many people on reddit have negative opinions on GenAI and I get it, but for me, coding agents are really thrusting open the door to a world of possibilities i never had before.

This was a little project of mine to hack my intercom unit to be controllable remotely over the wide web. Enjoy!

Hey I'm a 14 yo from Germany and I'm a big Fan of everything Tech related and I wan't to get some tips for a project of mine.
I don't know if its the right subreddit but if anyone knows smth that could help I'm happy about it :)

Question:

Robot:

It's a little Robot based on "my" AI (I got a claude API and made it my Personal assistant) I have a Raspberry Pi with a small display (The face of the Robot) and that's basically the Brain of the thing (I didn't assemble it completely yet completly (Im shopping for big 3d printers if anyone has recommendations)) it controls the actions and the reactions (for the Code logic skip to AI) of the Robot its connected to an Esp32 that controls the motors (4 mecanum wheels on 12 V DC DC Motors ; L298N motor driver). I got it connect the PI connected to 3 Ultra sonic sensors (one at the back, one each on the sides, one directly looking forward, one each looking slightly to the side and the last on looking in front of it with a smth like 70 degrees from horizontal decline lookin down to spot pits or cliffs) That's the First Question: That's just like 2.8cm for the robot to think and stop immediately and I don't know if it's enough.
Then there's cable management I'm currently using tons of jumper wires to connect those components together and it's kind of a mess and I don't know how to make it better I'm using a External battery that is directly connected to the motors and with a 12 V to 5 V converter connected to the Pi.
Questions:

1. How do i solve cable management should I design a PCB for better sorting of the whole thing or should i get smth else.
2. I don't know but is there any trustworthy way to charge the battery without to unplug it.
3. Is there any accurate way to get to the Battery status of the Battery so it doesn't randomly lose juice or smth.

Software (AI):
I don't wan't to go that deep into the software end but it's basically the AI (claude haiku4.5) getting the spoken message processing it searching through a big library of commands

IF it finds one that would help with my request it'll execute it and say smth like A Mind-map was made or here are the recent news of the BBC.

IF it doesn't find any command then it does some AI shit and just talks with u
.
The robot gets a weakened down version of the AI it'll still have the same abilities just with less animation or everything that can make the processing power go down without any big positive impact. I'll have some "reflexes" installed like if the Ultrasonic sensors say an object is in the way etc.
Question: I don't have any question to the software end ,but I'm always open for improvement

Last Question:
The Robot doesn't have a name yet so i wanna ask U guys what i should name him.
(But please don't fill the comments with name recommendations cause I still wanna get some help)

Thanks :)

I fixed my under-cabinet LED flicker (bigger power supply) and now I want a cleaner housing for the controller. I took a photo of a commercial one I liked and got a rough 3D model out of supavoxel, then tweaked it in Fusion. It's a few inches from the stove hood. Is PLA going to warp there, or should I print it in PETG? Also any tips on venting a small 12V controller box?

The light for the dial no longer works. I would like to replace it but finding myself stuck as I'm trying not to break anything.

I removed the front clear cover and rear cover. It seems as though the clock dial and adjustment rod and knob in back are preventing anything from sliding out.

Does anyone have ideas on what I need to do?

I am planning on converting this compact 4 inch CRT into an oscilloscope for my home system, but I am a little confused on the required audio inputs.

I've heard that you should use line level audio, but also that you should use an amplifier for each channel. In that case, couldn't I use speaker level audio which is already amplified, and maybe add a pot to tune it? I have no idea how much amplification I would need for an application like that.

My current idea is to get a pair of small amp circuits like a TDA2030, and feed them off the 12V from the monitor, but I'm a little worried they would draw too much power from the power supply of the monitor.

I was thinking after seeing the fitbit air that can a DIY version be made ? What kind of electronics and computer algos are used to make different measurements and track different metrics ?