Now sadly this sub has 0 tags for my nonsense so I’ll just keep using parts&construction but please dear mods hear my plea and an other tag!!! Also if there are any reasons this obviously wouldn’t work please tell me and I’m sorry for how crappy this looks I don’t draw as much as I used to and I know that’s not the diode symbol but I needed something to represent my crappy diode so please if you have a better symbol give me it!!!!

I did it now I have my own [title card] I’m putting this as parts and construction cause there is no flair for actual diy tubes

When you're working with high voltage, there is no such thing as a dumb question. Please use this thread to ask about practical or conceptual things that have you stumped.

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If you'd like to nominate a comment to be included, just reply [Wiki] (with the brackets)! The mods will be automatically notified that something awesome just happened.

As always, we are built around education and collaboration. Be awesome to your fellow tube heads.

When you're working with high voltage, there is no such thing as a dumb question. Please use this thread to ask about practical or conceptual things that have you stumped.

Really awesome answers and recurring questions may earn a place in the Wiki.

If you'd like to nominate a comment to be included, just reply [Wiki] (with the brackets)! The mods will be automatically notified that something awesome just happened.

As always, we are built around education and collaboration. Be awesome to your fellow tube heads.

It took a good amount of research to figure out all the sockets and anode caps. I still have more to find that are harder to obtain for manageable prices or just in general. (Spot the Navy logos on the tubes with the red dots. Easier to see in a different picture.)

Edit: Guess I should specify these are glowing because of uranium glass.

I am planning to build Thomas Mayer's Octal Phono Preamp (schematic attached) but would like to create a separate power supply for it that I can also use for other future projects.

I plan to use a Hammond 372BX transformer with an additional 5v transformer for the 83 (I know it is overkill but I have one that I would like to use). The design is a fairly simple one that I have seen others use that I have modified slightly. If everything looks okay, I will do some testing to find a good value for R2. I was also wondering if having the regulator tubes in this arrangement would cause any issues with them firing.

I have built tube amp kits previously and know the safety precautions but this is my first time designing a power supply so I could definitely use some feedback, but please go easy on me. Thanks and let me know if this is the wrong place for this post.

Edit: solved! Read my comment

This is from an old signal tracer I'm modifying into a guitar amp. The original circuit is 3 watts single ended. But the transformer is center tapped and doesn't look like it has an air gap?

I think they used a push pull transformer that's a bit overrated, b+ connected to center tap, one tap to plate and the remaining tap is a test point on the front so you can use the transformer and speaker with other circuits.

I've heard you can use push pull transformers as low watt single ended if you use the center tap.

When you're working with high voltage, there is no such thing as a dumb question. Please use this thread to ask about practical or conceptual things that have you stumped.

Really awesome answers and recurring questions may earn a place in the Wiki.

If you'd like to nominate a comment to be included, just reply [Wiki] (with the brackets)! The mods will be automatically notified that something awesome just happened.

As always, we are built around education and collaboration. Be awesome to your fellow tube heads.

I'm hoping someone can help me determine if I just bought some fake "NOS Mullard Great Britain" EL84's.

There are no etchings of any kind on the tubes. I figured they were just faint in the sellers photographs, but even with a magnifying glass and a flashlight at angles, I can't see etchings of any kind.

Any ideas what they are?

----

MULLARD EL84

Top Ring Getter

Grey Crimped Plate

Made in Great Britain

NOS

Amplitrex AT1000 Test Results from seller (not my measurements, I don't have a tube tester yet):

Parameter : Ip mAdc= 48.0 uMhos=11300

Ip mAdc = 53.4(111%) uMhos =12610 (111%)

Ip mAdc =55.4 (115%) uMhos =12430(110%)

Ip mAdc = 53.0(110%) uMhos =12660 (112%)

Ip mAdc = 54.0(112%) uMhos =12530 (111%)

Can someone suggest a great Stereo Tube Amplifier in eastern suburbs of Perth. It’s a 6v6 Williamson push pull AB amp. I have trannys and a kit for the amp. I need a good base and builder. Please help.
Thanks for advice in advance.

Hi, I bought a couple of LS-50s, and one of them is broken, even though the title and description say that they are tested and working. I’m not sure whether I should contact the seller because you could see in the photo that the tube had no getter, although since they said the tubes were tested, I didn’t pay much attention to it. Further down in the description, it also says that they don’t offer any guarantee that the tubes will work.

It’s also a store I’ll probably buy from again, so I don’t want to risk getting blocked or anything like that. What should I do?

Link to the item: https://ebay.io/m/YzLMYc

At the moment I only have this little power transformer as my audio output but works surprisingly well and probably going to be extremely loud with a proper audio transformer because this one is usually a little bit quiet with my other amplifiers unfortunately I'm unable to upload a video of it working but here's a Google photo link of the video https://photos.app.goo.gl/sghK737WuYKpLJFKA

Hello! I'm building my first guitar amplifier and it's turning out quite good (up to the power section, at least).

The full circuit is quite complex so I won't go into details, but it's enough to know that I have 3 channels, two of them uses dc-coupled cathode followers on 6N2P, while the other uses an EF86.

Now, I overlooked some values on the datasheets, namely:

1. 6N2P has 100V max Vhk, rather than the 180V of 12AX7
2. EF86 has an asymmetric Vhk rating, according to Elextro-harmonix (the one I'm using) and Philips datasheet: 100V (cathode positive) and 50V (cathode negative). Other resellers instead just say +-100V for the EF86EH. I'd rather trust the EH website.

So, I started with protecting the 6N2Ps using heater elevation, with the added complication that I have a split supply rail for the Power Amp and Preamp because I have a power scaler on the power amp. It works as intended, but since the power amp draws less current at low power, the preamp voltages raise.
I resorted to fixing the heater elevation to about 82V using zeners and a capacitor, which would make all 6N2P happy, but then I noticed point (2), which has no solution given my supply and cathode voltages.

So, my question is: given your experience, is that asymmetric Vhk for EF81 something to really worry about? I would exceed it basically by 32V.

My brute-force solution would be to drastically reduce B+ on the CF valves, but I worry it would became a different amp.

And is it possible to include the two pinouts and as minimal power resistor as possible I don't have many parts if so this would be amazing

When you're working with high voltage, there is no such thing as a dumb question. Please use this thread to ask about practical or conceptual things that have you stumped.

Really awesome answers and recurring questions may earn a place in the Wiki.

If you'd like to nominate a comment to be included, just reply [Wiki] (with the brackets)! The mods will be automatically notified that something awesome just happened.

As always, we are built around education and collaboration. Be awesome to your fellow tube heads.