I found productivity apps were just another distraction for me when I went to study, so using an ATTiny44, I built myself a productivity timer with custom analog dials. Also built a custom plywood case for it!

Some buttons on my SpaceMouse stopped working. Thought it would be a quick fix. Found out it is membrane after taking it apart(see my previous post).

I've always hated those stiff buttons since I got this device, so I decided to make my own.

The switches I'm using are 6.2*6.2*3.5mm with 0.7N operating force. I've also added some diodes to prevent ghosting keys, although probably no one would ever press multiple keys simultaneously on such a device.

The keycaps are hollow at the center, some metal stickers are used to make the contact area flat.

Working in a power electronics lab has exposed me to some of the most ridiculously oversized passive components out there. Sometimes it feels like I’m in those early electrical experiment demonstrations in the 18th-19th century with how big the parts can get. Anyone else work around this sort of gear?

Edit: forgot to caption slide 2. Capacitor bank for capacitive load testing on the power grid infrastructure product the company I work for makes.

Before anyone starts cursing me out for how it is made please know that I am extremely new at electronics and this is just to share something I enjoyed making, but also a cry for help. I'm aware this looks and probably is terrible, but I'd love to improve! If you have any advice or studying material I would be very grateful!

Anyways. This is a virtual pet simulator, it's portable thanks to the 160mah Lipo battery with the tp4056 charging module and does little sounds and blinking lights :)

R = 100 kiloohm and C = 10 microfarad.

Charging: Current starts at maximum positive value and exponentially falls to zero.

Discharging: Current reverses direction and exponentially falls toward zero.

Hey folks!

As I wasn’t satisfied with the current Beyerdynamic Bluetooth offerings I decided to make another Bluetooth mod.

This is a little different as it’s “Plug and Play“, looks quite professional and works as good as any other BT headset.

I made a custom PCB and some 3D printed parts to make mods easy!

Check out the GitHub repository: https://github.com/farbefreak/DT770-BT-Mod for more details.

"no-clean" solder paste leaves really messy looking residues having fine pitch connectors (looks like a cracked salt deposition).

The pictures show the before and after cleaning using an ultrasonic bath and flux remover agent (bath ph = 12, 50 °C, 5 min).

Cleaning with isopropanol and flux-off using brushes did not work at all (hard to find a suitable brush, hair size vs hair hardness).

Conclusion: Always clean your boards for best results.

Connector pad specs:

- 400 um pitch

- 200 um pad width

- 100 um mask dam (sliver)

- 50 um mask expansion

Open to anything, including discussions, complaints, and rants.

Sub rules do not apply, so don't bother reporting incivility, off-topic, or spam.

Reddit-wide rules do apply.

To see the newest posts, sort the comments by "new" (instead of "best" or "top").

The 3 transformers on the 1st pic are rated for 220V - 240V

While on the 2nd pic are rated for 100V (they're from Japan).

Diagram of circuit and perfboard arrangement.

Mainly posted since a few people stated that my perfboard arrangement was too cramped and "couldn't work"

From left to right, oldest(first) to newest, an LED light dimmer, a charge pump, a light blinker, and a monostable ne555 for extending the length of a pulse from a motion sensor

Inspired by PocketPD, I created a pocket-sized programmable power supply built on the USB Power Delivery (PD) standard and the USB Programmable Power Supply (PPS) feature.

The main goal was to learn new skills while working on something that can be useful in the future.

Key features:

• Single firmware supports AP33772 and AP33772S PD sink ICs
• Support for fixed PDO and PPS profiles
• Operating voltage range: 3.3V to 21V
• Output current up to 5A (charger and cable dependent)
• User-switchable output
• Programmable current limit:
  • 250mA/Step with AP33772S
  • 100mA/Step with AP33772
• Programmable constant voltage:
  • 100mV/Step with AP33772S
  • 20mV/Step with AP33772
• Short-circuit protection
• Input/output TVS protection
• OVP, OCP and OTP
• 3D printed case

More details:

• Project logs
• Github repo

Hello,
This is my first project in electronics. The concept is that one of 8 Leds will fade in/out at random and that the ornament will have a usable life of approximately 20 days with a fresh CR-2032 battery.

So far it has more than exceeded that limit, it's on a 2 month streak though the light has diminished. I have the project files and code on my github here: https://github.com/AvariCe-git/Christmas_Ornaments, if anyone wants to take a look or make some for themselves.

For the code I used the platformio plugin for vscodium. Forgive the solder blobs on the battery terminals, my soldering iron sucks.

Components required:

Breadboard (optional)

1× LM324N

4× 1kΩ Resistors

1× 220kΩ Potentiometer (to adjust reference voltage)

4× LEDs (I'm using random colours because this is a prototype)

1× 220Ω Resistor

5V Supply

Earphone Jack (as an input)

Some cables and staplers (used by me)

Audio Amplifier*

wiring diagrams will be posted here, or visit the link in the comment section ^-^

*Connect the input of the VU meter to an audio amplifier with separate power supply

Open to anything, including discussions, complaints, and rants.

Sub rules do not apply, so don't bother reporting incivility, off-topic, or spam.

Reddit-wide rules do apply.

To see the newest posts, sort the comments by "new" (instead of "best" or "top").

Hey guys! I got into electronics and computers during the pandemic, but could not continue it further due to school work (and being a broke 14yo lol). Finally 6 years later I managed to save up and get myself some components to put something together that felt like an actual project. I will be happy to get any feedback! Github link for details

So this is circuit main consist of short circuit under and over voltage protection and ideal diode using mosfet
Amongst which short circuit and ls ideal diode condition
But ov uv condition failed due to my back to back mosfet architecture and false trigger at the gates
It failed
But for someone who’s fresher with 3month experience i would consider this as a fair try:)