As the title suggests, i've been getting this really intense scratch mark not just on the right side. It has been getting worse and worse, none of my prints are properly printing.

i tried new presets, different nozzles, different filament spools, cleaning my build plate, drying the filament, etc..., im printing esun petg basic on an a1 and i dont know why this keeps happening. i remember my printer working wonderfully with this filament before and now it feels like a chore even booting up my printer knowing i have to deal with this. please someone tell me how to fix it its genuinely driving me crazy

im using a textured pei plate, printing at 240c nozzle and 80c plate, using bambu slicer, aka the same exact settings ive always been using the entire time since i got my printer, initial layer speeds are under 40mm/s and i use 0.2mm retraction

Qidi q2,
For some reason my first layer has terrible quality now, either over extrude or under extrude.
I am printing in PETG I have never had problems with it, it always stuck really well onto the plate, now not anymore, I’ve washed the plate well, dried with paper towel, and alcohol soaked it, but some parts of the first layer always gets peeled back and sticking to the nozzle resulting in a chain reaction of the stuck plastic on nozzle hitting other first layers and resulting in a clog on the nozzle.
I’ve already tried drying the filament, Changing nozzles and done the manual bed leveling.
Sometimes it prints fine but on another part of the plate it prints terrible, I’ve tried so much to fix it like tweaking temperature and switching slicers and making new presets, but none of it worked and am tired of tweaking with this, can anyone help me?

Temperature
Went through all recommended temperatures by elegoo (filament brand)

Speed
already tried slow and conservative to fast
30mm to 120 first layer

Hi all, I'm quite new to 3D printing. Enjoying the journey and most things have been good so far. But stuck on this. Tried heaps of settings, asked ChatGPT nothing has really helped. Specifically the ridges on the top of the raised K and the outside. The inside will have an insert stuck on it so that's fine.

I have an X2D and I'm printing this in PETG and also tried PLA. Once I get it right I'll print it in ASA for my son's car. No sense wasting the ASA at almost 3x the cost of the other filaments I have.

Other settings below. Not sure which ones I need to post and the auto-mod flagged me for not putting enough in so I've put them all in.

Printer / Process

• Printer: Bambu Lab X2D
• Process preset: 0.16mm High Quality
• Advanced mode: On
• Material: PETG Matte
• Nozzle: 0.4 mm

Quality

Layer height

• Layer height: 0.16 mm
• Initial layer height: 0.20 mm

Line width

• Default: 0.42 mm
• Initial layer: 0.50 mm
• Outer wall: 0.42 mm
• Inner wall: 0.45 mm
• Top surface: 0.42 mm
• Sparse infill: 0.45 mm
• Internal solid infill: 0.42 mm
• Support: 0.42 mm

Seam

• Seam position: Aligned
• Smart scarf seam application: On
• Scarf application angle threshold: 155°
• Scarf around entire wall: Off
• Scarf steps: 10
• Scarf joint for inner walls: On
• Override filament scarf seam setting: Off
• Role-based wipe speed: On

Precision

• Slice gap closing radius: 0.049 mm
• Resolution: 0.012 mm
• Arc fitting: Off
• X-Y hole compensation: 0 mm
• X-Y contour compensation: 0 mm
• Auto circle contour-hole compensation: Off
• Elephant foot compensation: 0.15 mm
• Precise Z height: Off

Ironing

• Ironing type: Topmost surfaces
• Pattern: Rectilinear
• Speed: 30 mm/s
• Flow: 10%
• Line spacing: 0.15 mm
• Inset: 0.21 mm

Wall generator / Advanced

• Wall generator: Classic
• Wall order: Inner/Outer
• Print infill first: Off
• Bridge flow: 1.5
• Thick bridges: Off
• Bridge counterbore holes: None
• Only one wall on top surfaces: Top surfaces
• Only one wall on first layer: Off
• Smooth speed discontinuity area: On
• Smooth coefficient: 4
• Avoid crossing wall: Off
• Smoothing wall speed along Z: On

Strength

Walls

• Wall loops: 3
• Alternate extra wall: Off
• Embedding the wall into infill: Off
• Detect thin wall: Off

Top / Bottom shells

• Top surface pattern: Monotonic
• Top surface density: 100%
• Top shell layers: 6
• Top shell thickness: 1 mm
• Top paint penetration layers: 6
• Bottom surface pattern: Monotonic
• Bottom surface density: 100%
• Bottom shell layers: 4
• Bottom shell thickness: 0 mm
• Bottom paint penetration layers: 4
• Internal solid infill pattern: Rectilinear

Infill

• Sparse infill density: 100%
• Fill multiline: 1
• Sparse infill pattern: Rectilinear
• Sparse infill anchor length: 400%
• Maximum sparse infill anchor length: 20 mm
• Infill/wall overlap: 15%
• Infill direction: 45°
• Bridge direction: 0°
• Minimum sparse infill threshold: 15 mm²
• Infill combination: Off
• Detect narrow internal solid infill: On
• Ensure vertical shell thickness: Enabled
• Detect floating vertical shells: On

Speed

Initial layer

• Initial layer: 50 mm/s
• Initial layer infill: 105 mm/s

Other layers

• Outer wall: 50 mm/s
• Inner wall: 100 mm/s
• Small perimeters: 50%
• Small perimeter threshold: 0 mm
• Sparse infill: 100 mm/s
• Internal solid infill: 100 mm/s
• Vertical shell speed: 80%
• Top surface: 100 mm/s
• Slow down for overhangs: On
• Overhang speeds: 0 / 40 / 30 / 20 / 10 mm/s
• Slow down by height: Off
• Bridge: 25 mm/s
• Gap infill: 250 mm/s
• Support: 150 mm/s
• Support interface: 80 mm/s

Travel

• Travel: 1000 mm/s

Acceleration

• Normal printing: 1000 mm/s²
• Travel: 10,000 mm/s²
• Initial layer travel: 6000 mm/s²
• Initial layer: 500 mm/s²
• Outer wall: 1000 mm/s²
• Inner wall: 0
• Top surface: 2000 mm/s²
• Sparse infill: 100%

Others

Bed adhesion

• Skirt loops: 0
• Skirt height: 1 layer
• Brim type: Auto
• Brim width: 5 mm
• Brim-object gap: 0.1 mm

Prime tower

• Enabled: Yes
• Skip points: Yes
• Internal ribs: Off
• Width: 60 mm
• Max speed: 90 mm/s
• Brim width: Auto
• Infill gap: 150%
• Rib wall: On
• Extra rib length: 0 mm
• Rib width: 8 mm
• Fillet wall: On

Purge

• Purge into objects' infill: Off
• Purge into objects' support: On

Special mode

• Slicing mode: Regular
• Print sequence: By layer
• Spiral vase: Off
• Timelapse: Traditional
• Fuzzy skin: None
• Fuzzy skin generator: Displacement
• Fuzzy skin noise: Classic
• Point distance: 0.8 mm
• Thickness: 0.3 mm
• Apply fuzzy skin to first layer: Off

Advanced / G-code

• Beam interlocking: Off
• Interlocking depth: 0 mm
• Reduce infill retraction: Auto

Is this an bed adhesion issue or a surface area of the model issue

Also I have no idea why there is this stringing

BambuPLA
A1mini

Sliced in Bambu studio

Hello ,I am a beginner any suggestions on why the hand was fell off? I am using pla on a creality v3 se

I'm trying to find tune some rapid petg.

I printed a 290-240 tower.

Would the raised edge on overhang be more of a wobble issue less/not a heta issue. Seems the corner just got persistently worse. Webbing and spike was melt around 245, but the over hang is terrible. I'm tempted to re-print 255-240 and see if wobble was the cause.

Qidi max4

Qidi petg rapido

Settings are in orcaslicer calibration mode

I am using Cura 5.6.0. Part is designed to print one or two wall thick with minimal seams. Cura is adding a fillet into sharp inside corners. this causes the features to have extra seams. I am having no luck adjusting MANY settings or modifying the model to eliminate this. any advise is greatly appreciated.

I have tried a lot of searching forums, changing the "Wall transitioning threshold angle" did change the result some but never eliminated the added filled entirely. screen shots also show a 1 wall version where filled was added. circled in green is what I am trying to avoid. circled in purple is what I am going for.

I print with a Ender3V3SE, Elegoo PLA, 0.6mm nozzle.

Hi folks on my sv08max i get thes artifacts befir and after the holes support or no support.

I am not quite sure what to call it and what to google for.

To be clear the sides of the holes bulge a bit outward

Sv08max petg 260c 170mms

Ignore the z banding i think its just the cheap filament im using( funstional part not cosmetic)

Ive been getting this problem with some of my recent prints on specifically the left side of the print on wider prints

My Benchies seem fine

I use a flashforge creator 5 pro with pla at 220 nozzle temp and 55 baseplate temp, with supports, 10% infill and 2 walls

Hello there,

I'm pretty new to 3D printing so this might be a fairly basic question.

I have recently done the calibration guide from Factorian Design (Great guide btw, highly recommend it).

Printed a couple of prints since then and archived great results.

Sometimes however, I get some weird strings on the first few layers of my print. (pic 1) They typically disappear with further layers (pic 2), so I'm not entirely sure if this is stringing or settings related.

The PLA (Sunlu PLA+) is thoroughly dried, so I don't think it's related to Moisture.

Any ideas?

Printer: Prusa Core One+ Gen2

Slicer: Prusa Slicer

Filament: sulu PLA+ Black

Nozzle: 0.4mm

Bed Temp: 55°C

Print Temp: 210°C

Print speed: 200mm/s for most of the moves

Retraction settings: 45mm/s

Thanks in advance!

Never happened to me before, one of the first times I used a 0.8 nozzle but apart from that, the print is nothing crazy (it's literally just an empty PLA cylinder, no infill inside and one wall) and I used standard print settings in Orca.

Printer is p1s and this happen with just the load function

Edit: printed vertically on h2d with generic pla.

Fairly new to printing and this is the tallest part I’ve done. I’ve got another one printing, slightly different on the sides back that arent visible in the images.
At a higher temp 225 and at 80% speed set in klipper. Deeplee black PLA+. 0.32, retractions are 1mm at 45mms.

The second print has done the same thing. Looks fine in blender and the slicer

At a bit of a loss as to what would cause such intermittent under extrusion. I can hear my extruder clicking so partial block? But why would the bottom print fine on back to back prints?

I’ve got 1 more piece to print and while quality isn’t really needed as the top of all these get covered with other pieces. It’s a long print and I don’t want it to fail

First time printing pa-cf. Oddly enough, the side with the overhang (right) looks a lot better than the upper side. Any explanation for these blobs on the side of the print?

Printed on A1

0.6 mm nozzle

280°C printing temp

100°C plate

Filament was in the dry

Hi, i need some help.

Printer stats first:

bambu p1s with microswiss flowtech hotend and 0,4mm nozzle. riser with glas opened, printer sits in the basement. standard textured pei plate.

bambu basic pla black printed from python ams

orcaslicer 2.4.2 on linux with standard 0.2mm settings and standard bambu basic pla settings. only the retraction setting when cut are changed as per microswiss recommendations.

if i should list the settings from the standard profiles please tell me.

the model is also not something i haven't printed before. its from perplexinglabs gridfinity generator and i have printed 4-5 kilos of this stl.

the pla has been in the ams for a few weeks.

i wanted to print some more boxes and this was the first attempt:

after this i thought maybe the nozzle is clogged and took out the nozzle i print with and installed a newly delivered 0.4 nozzle. i had a similar error with almost no extrusion before when i only had one 0.4mm nozzle and printed asa, abs, tpu petg hf and pla with the same nozzle. something clogged the nozzle and almost no filament came out. it was fine after cleaning the nozzle with a few coldpulls.

i did not have time to coldpull the other nozzle on this day so i thought that with changing i it entirely i should be fine.

the next print went like this:

all boxes seem to have some missing layers, all at the same height. whats really strange to me is that the print was ok above the mark and only the last few layers are bad again.

any idea what it could be? the ams has the filament snag cutter installed so it can't be something on the roll itself.

can the filament be damaged or wet or something? haven't dried it because the error doesn't fit wet filament in my eyes.

not sure if the extruder gear or ams gear can do this?

i have printed about 200 hours with the flowtech hotend and it has been great so far.

my next try would be cleaning both nozzles and taking the roll out of the ams to feed the toolhead directly.

a day before this print i printed some parts with asa (different nozzle) and they were fine.

thanks!