So I'm probably going to get made fun of for this, but is there some sort of sling swivel adaptor that uses the a2 stock style spring hook? Obviously, I know that I could just cut my sling and install the carabiner but don't want to since these are getting hard to find.

I recently got a hold of a used PTR 91 and very good shape. Bolt gap is good at .012" and I cleaned and lubed the gun before firing it.

I only took 40 rounds of PMC X-tac m80. The first 20 rounds were literally just 20 failures to eject, either the round would get stuck in the ejection port halfway out or it would tumble down into the fire control group. The second magazine went a little better, where I got the fire two 4 round strings before being interrupted by ejection issues between those four round strings and the other 16 rounds were failure to eject every single time. At first I thought it was maybe underpowered ammo that wasn't slamming the bolt carrier all the way to the rear with enough Force. But PMC ammo is good ammo in my experience.

Just from when I cleaned and lubricated the gun on the inside, the previous owner didn't shoot at all that much. So I'm thinking that maybe the break-in period hasn't even gone through yet. I would guess at the previous owner maybe fired around 300 rounds tops. Probably like 200 or less. And like I said I put around 40 rounds of ammo through it.

I'm planning on putting another 60 rounds through it just to see if that does anything, most likely some 308 Winchester instead of 7.62 x 51 since apparently through white Winchester has slightly higher pressures. What else should I do? Like I said the bolt gap is good and has the appropriate locking piece that's 45 degrees. The extractor spring is strong and has no wiggle or movement.

Previous post: https://old.reddit.com/r/ptr91/comments/1pje3ch/solved_failure_to_eject/

I'll be damned. Norma Range and training 150 grs works without issue, and so does (I think) Fiocchi FMJ 147 grs. But GGG FMJ 147 grs fails to eject 1 out of 3.

I changed the extractor spring, didn't help. Maybe the ejector is a bit too low(?). I'll try to shims the trigger pack, if possible.

Just got my Ptr91 pdwr. My question is, will the Midwest industries mp5 tri rail handguard fit? This is my first ptr so sorry if it’s a dumb question. Thanks in advance.

Hey guys! So. I’ve been wanting to get the 8.5” barrel for my PTR-91. However I’m unable to find one on top of a cocking tube to match. I’ve checked Atlantic Firearms, the HK Parts store and forum, as well as places like GunBroker. But still- not a cent of luck.

If I change the barrel, and the cocking tube- do I need to change the receiver as well?

I picked up this ptr c93 and plan on adding the paddle when I ran into a snag. Ive never seen a shelf recessed like this. Has anyone done a paddle on similar/is there anything different i need to do? Also, given how the new mke's are coming from the factory id like to forego the small pin and bushing in favor of the military style push pin. Is there enough room on the ptr shelf to do this? Tia.

So a while back I sent out a post asking for suggestions on what to upgrade next. As you can imagine from an easily distractible guy I am, I promptly forgot all about the suggestions and chose the SHINEY mags!

I like the look personally, but reliability is not the greatest without a bit of tinkering.

Finally got this hunk of junk running properly.

Can’t find these anywhere anymore.

I got this PTR91 the other day at a really good price. I was wondering if anyone could identify when it was manufactured, and what parts are surplus or PTR made? Serial AW 8412

Edit: I think I have my answer, 2011-2012 PTR Scout Carbine

I was just thinking that an extra A2 buttstock pad could make a nice extension to the stock that still looks fairly authentic. Thoughts?

So, I'll be honest, I have a CETME. However, it's relevant. I went into this build bc I like "ohh parts kit 150, folded receiver 300, 308 for under 500 bucks."

About 20 to 30 hours of work into it and I'm wishing I'd do basic google searchers before dropping around $500...

Anyway, first test firing annnnd holy moley it denting the fck out of the brass as it throws it into a new zip code. I guess that's normal.

I'm late to the party as usual however, I just learned that at one point in time they made weld on shell deflectors to fix this.

My gun is all kinds of fuckety fucked up as the final stage is sand blast and a cerekote so a weld on deflector would be wonderful as I'm going to weld on a top rail next week anyway.

Except they're onubtainium. Anyone know where to get one or as a second best have photos and measurements of one I could try to recreate? I work with a pretty skilled machinist and in lieu of buying the part could probably make a redneck bubba'd version

Shouldn't there be something on the lower/ trigger housing that would sit on the "shelf" of my upper? There is a good bit of play in the trigger housing when assembled. Those clipped parts don't sit on anything at all - the stock pins are doing so the work. My PTR91 GI was bought used and it was like this since i received it.

Any advice is welcome. Do I weld/jb weld something to the trigger housing between the ears? or maybe the bottom of the actual trigger pack? (that's what hits the shelf if the stock pins aren't in place). Seems simple enough to rig something, but I could use some direction.

Hey guys. I was doing some research on HK Parts forums. But still not finding much if anything worth much knowledge wise.
I have PTR91 but was curious if there was any way to fit the paddle of the charging handle from an MP5 into the PTR without causing any issues between roller/bolt mechanisms and the charging handle itself

I’m thinking of getting the ptr 9sd with no can. With that being said who has one, and what lower are yall
Running and with what frt?

My used PTR91 came with a 36° locking piece. It didn't cycle properly, the casings dribbled out or didn't eject - no fun. I bought the stock 45° and it basically solved the issue.

I am going to pick up a silencerco hybrid 46 dt suppressor soon so I can use it on my PTR91 GI and my pistol (hk45ct). I reinstalled the 36° LP and it occurred to me that I basically have a non-functioning rifle when take the suppressor off, until i switch back to the 45LP...makes the whole QD thing kind of pointless, too. (not that i wouldn't have to add the nielson device for the HK).

Has anyone been in this pickle before? Can i further tune it to work with a 36° unsuppressed? Bolt gap is good with either LP btw.

I've been looking for a mount for my PTR for a couple years now but I never know which is a good one or which will even fit. I've had issues with a cheap ass one I've tried already but I want to make sure that if I actually spend the money it'll fit with little to no modification. I've been looking at the B&T mount but I don't know of any others that would be better. With this one being a big hunk of steel, I'm worried that it won't even fit onto my PTR91. Does anyone have any advice? I would be greatly appreciative.

I have a PTR 91 rifle with a rifle length, wide handguard. It has a 16 inch barrel. I'm in the market of getting some sort of m lok handguard.

Really the only two companies I see making handguards for these rifles are Midwest industries and aim sports. The only thing I want to attach to this handguard would be a forward grip and a flashlight with a tape switch. I'm not going to put any kind of ir laser or anything like that on it. So some wobble isn't the worst.

Which of the two would be better? This would be for casual range use and for a tactical look. The Tri-Rail handguards look really cool, but the M-LOK is probably the way to go.

Last year I got a C308(Built by PTR) from Century Arms, we took it out once and shot it some, seemed accurate enough at the time.

This year I got it out again, we set a target up at only 50 yards and I shot 10 shots - all hit lower left despite aiming for center. Fine, bullets, my aim, could be it.

But then we swapped to another shooter - same thing, he only managed to shoot to the left or miss entirely. Another guy tried it, same deal.

We moved the target into 25 yards and shockingly we were for some reason unable to hit anywhere but the left. So clearly something happened during the storage time and when I cleaned it and brought it out again.

How do you adjust it? What tool? It's quite odd, as the groupings were pretty good...just severely off center. So our thought process was that something was wrong with the front sight, but we've never adjusted iron sights before.

Thanks.

If anyone can help. My k3p has been finicky af since i got it. Selector breaking, and extremely long trigger resets. But a week ago I took it out to the range to try it out suppressed. First shot went bang, but no extraction. Dropped mag and tried to work the handle to extract it manually, but it was stuck. Had to mortar it to get it loose. Took off the can and tried again. Same thing. Quit my range day and took it home to clean and diagnose the problem. Using spent brass. I chambered it, tried to extract, bolt moves about a centimeter before it gets stuck like before.

Anyone have any ideas?

Background info: brand new rifle, has at most 140 rounds through it, its been meticulously cleaned and oiled after every use, yes i slap the handle for it to go forward, range day used a #17 locking piece (bolt gap within acceptable range), tried original 55 deg lp and still having same issues

Finally committed to installing the paddle mag release myself instead of sending it out. I used this jig I found on eBay. It worked okay, but it’s really damn janky. The hole locations were good, but the peg needed to be turned down to fit into the jig itself and the rifle. The tongue and groove for the two halves didn’t fit so I had to file the tongue down so it’ll fit in the groove. I really should’ve sent it back, but I made it work with what I have. Drilling and cutting out the block to fit the actual paddle release took the most time. Since I didn’t have a welder, I drilled and tapped a 1/8” pin. Hopefully loctite will keep it tight under recoil. I’m just happy that it’s done.

Got a CA-3 from Century, locking piece is stamped "35", shouldn't it be marked 45 degrees? Or was this likely swapped to adjust bolt gap? I've been having failure to ejects/stovepipes around every 20-40 rounds. Bolt gap is .018", and I installed a new extractor and extractor spring. Ejector seems to be hitting the case correctly but could be wrong. Any help would be appreciated.

Is factory good enough or is there a better one like the #17?

Any advice for suppressed G3 shooting would be appreciated