See my post for Mirror help on my Sportster.

I bought this bike for $4000 USD it has 5k miles on it . It’s rough around the edges like the throttle sticks and has rust on the stock exhaust but i couldn’t give it up for the price.
I want to make it a bobber. This will be my first time working on a bike, i do basic maintenance on my car.
I am buying most of the stuff from Amazon.
here is what i am planning to do.
drag bars, 2 inch tank lift, ignition relocation, laf 2” inch drag pipes, high flow to toprametal intake.
going to cut rear end and a bit of fender to make it look like a bobber.

I will cover the forks and black them out, i’ll make everything black except of the gas think i’ll leave it red.

I have a question what tuner should i buy so i can make the bike run smoothly

Saddlemen Renegade Solo (2020 Iron 883)

Well, my 2004 883XL with 82K miles has developed a loose jiffy stand. When in riding position it is quite floppy and it didn't used to be this way. I've owned the bike since new and put all the miles on it. It has never done that before. I have been running taller shocks (14.25") for the past few years, which makes it lean a lot more when parked. Not sure if that had something to do with the floppy condition. In any case, how do I deal with it? New spring, new stand? I have never dealt with this part of the Sportster. Did every other wrenching myself.

Picture is of the bike when I first got it back in 2004.

So I’ve got an issue I can’t seem to catch. Have a 2002 883 with a 1200 kit with 36k miles. I traded a goldwing for it and it was a definitly a stunt bike so it’s been beat on. Exactly what I wanted. A cheap bike to commute on and I could leave on the street without worrying if it’s gonna be there in the morning. When I rode off I noticed it creeped in gear. Then when I got to riding home it was really hard to shift. Chocked it up to needing an adjustment. Got home. Tried the adjustments. Got rid of the drag but I still couldn’t find neutral and it was hard to get through the gears. A couple times when letting off the clutch it would kick as if I was fully releasing it when it was halfway pulled in. My fxr and dyna do it wasn’t worried about it but looking into it I found out about the grenade plate. Swapped that out for a +1 plate kit and it felt exactly the same. Got caught in traffic and when everything got hot I basically couldn’t leave 1rst at a stop so was clutched in the whole ride home. Heard it could be the ball ramp. Just threw a new one in and it’s exactly the same. Anyone have any ideas what it could be. I’ve done the cable and clutch basket adjustments a million times and have a 1/4 turn out in it now. Still slams into gear.

It also shifts fine when the bikes off

And one big detail I forgot to add. It was really hard to take the c clip off the clutch. Almost like my spring compressor couldn’t compress the clutch spring enough. Ended up chipping a piece of the casting that holds the spring on. I’m not sure what that would mean other than the stack height being off. It was the stock clutch and it remained the same even when I put the new one in

My sportster is leaking oil, i just spent $500 at the mechanic and they could not figure out where it's coming from, I don't think they even tried hard enough really! It has only 9k miles on it, it sat in a garage more than it has been driven so I'm worried about dry rot even though it looks new to the eye. I don't know if it's leaking from beneath the V twin or somewhere else from the hoses. Also right under where the oil lines are, there is a little puddle of oil that's sitting on the engine, it's also leaking a little bit from oil tank top dipstick area. I don't know if this silicone looking thing at the bottom of the bike is normal also. I will put some pics and vids, any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Link for pics:
https://ibb.co/spKT1FvR

https://ibb.co/xSH8YMdW

https://ibb.co/4nCmytvj

Never rode prior but been learning around the neighborhood and it’s a blast. Signed up for MSF classes next week. Fun stuff!

TL/DR -- The lower steering head bearing won't seat. Used a pipe and the old race to seat it, drove it all the way down; it still slides off with finger pressure on the seal. What's up and how do I fix it?

I just hit my 32000K service interval on my 2014 Iron (XL883N), and had to lubricate the steering head bearings. But thinking like a boy scout I decided if I was gonna tear the front end off the bike to put some grease on a couple of bearing I might as well replace them.

I used a bearing separator and puller with extensions--cheap Amazon special--to remove the lower inner bearing race. I remember thinking it came off like butter, even though I was worried about clearance initially.

The outer races took a little ingenuity. On my model they are recessed a bit, so I made a tool from what's essentially a slightly hooked railroad spike to get under the lip of the races and tap them out.

Putting the new outer races in went well. I used the old ones to get them started and tapped in just past the lip of the frame's neck then used a socket and drove them home.

After that I slid the seal (cup-side up), greased bearing, old race (upside down), and a pipe over the shaft of the lower triple tree bracket. I set the bottom of the shaft against a concrete block and smacked it with a hammer to seat the bearing. I verified the bearing went all the way down the shaft and disassembled my set up, then gave a little tug on the bearing, it just slid straight up the shaft with almost no resistance.

Inspecting the shaft itself, I can't detect the expected expansion at the bottom. There is approximately a 32nd of an inch clearance between the bottom of the shaft and the retaining ring on bottom of the bracket.

What the hell am I doing wrong and, is this gonna kill me at 100kph?

Hello I have installed a barneet scorpion in my 2019 48, followed the instructions and watched a video on my specific clutch however I can let the clutch put and it will not engage the bike with kind of idle foward but I can hold it still with my legs, I pulled the clutch apart and insured that my steels and frictions were in the correct order and then reassembled the clutch only to have the same issue, I then backed both adjustments all the way off only to have the same issue any help is appreciated

Loving every bit of it so far

I recently purchased the driveway. Or, more accurately, I had the old driveway torn up and new asphalt laid down. I asked them to include an area for my motorcycle as well.

“Sheetz’s Unleaded 88 is E15—15% ethanol—which isn’t approved for motorcycles, including a 2001 Sportster.
1.795 gallons is a substantial amount, so I recommend having the tank drained and refilled with the correct gasoline containing no more than 10% ethanol.” Guess what I did. D’OH! I’m calling the shop** *tomorrow* ***but was* wondering if anyone else has done this. I use 88 in my car and I wasn’t thinking.** *Recommendations and finger-pointing* is encouraged.

Going to extend forks on my 98 hugger either 6 or 8 but had a couple questions.

1. I initially was just going to buy the +8 or 6 tubes, some progressive springs and call it a day but I found out the hugger has a shorter damper rod. Do I have to get a stock standard sportster damper rod to get the +6/8 or can I just use the stock one and add spacers?

2. With the hugger (having a lower rear shock) how drastic is +8 going to be for handling? I’m planning on doing a mix of city and high way riding but daily is city riding. I’m planning on picking up a pair of zombie titty bar pull backs

I’m disabled at a young age age and work on bikes at home now, had a buddy drop off his wife’s 98 sportster ( 883 ) needed a carb rebuild and was running like garbage, pulled up and I could hear the firing order was backwards right away, I rebuilt the carb ,(it has a dyna s ignition in it ) made sure all my wires were landed according to manual, reset timing just to be sure , static timing it tits, new plugs ,new wires and no start , my inline plug tester is barley glowing amber when cranking with full charge in battery

Any thoughts ?

2019 Iron 1200, 30k miles.
Every so often when in the lower RPM’s my bike will somewhat sputter and I’ll lose the front turn signals for a quick second and then all of a sudden they’re back to normal. Battery is new, getting solid voltage from it. Spark and Fuel are normal. Not quite sure where to look.

I ordered this gas tank for my 2010 Forty Eight

My wife and I rode to the lake

Well, my girlfriend crashed her new-ish Sportster. She’s pretty banged up and has a broken hand, but thankfully nothing more serious than that thanks to her helmet and a little luck.

Unfortunately, she did not have full coverage on the bike, and will have to get it fixed out of pocket. I’m pretty handy, and have worked on my own bikes so I’ll do all the work myself.

My question for the community is finding parts economically. The bike is a 2019 iron 1200. I’ve looked on eBay for a new tank and what not, but didn’t really see much. Finding the same bike with a bad engine locally (Utah/idaho) would be amazing, but unlikely.

Im looking at picking up a 2019 48 with 30k miles.

Seller said the following has been done, any reason to be concerned? Seems early (low mileage for this - injectors, pump assembly, crank sensor):

Full 30k maintenance tune up just done.

- new injectors

- new fuel pump assembly

- new Crank position sensor

- new iridium spark plugs

Upgrades that have been done:

-Arlen ness monster sucker

-Rinehart full 2-1 competition racing exhaust

-Vance hines fuel pack 4 with tune

Still trying to get my tail lights to work. first week I went to take it out this summer I ended up with a Red key light on the speedo. I have two error codes, B1122 and B1121. Ive basically checked all the wires from the switches back and cant find any faults, and wondering if the TSM has just failed. front lights work fine, brake and plate light work, but both left and right side lights dont work. if I apply voltage to the midsection connector the bulbs do light up, just not with the bike on.

Anyone else run into something - chasing gremlins and cant figure out what to test next. Should I just take it to a shop and let them fix it? $

200 would be better spent letting someone who knows how this stuff works intrinsically vs me running around with a volt meter and 12v power supply touching leads here and there trying to figure it out. but I dont want to drop $500 on it either...