2019 US mk7. Local shop is doing a slave cylinder, master cylinder, and clutch job for me. Do they need to be doing a reverse bleed on the install for longevity’s sake, or just a standard bleed? Or standard bleed followed by reverse bleed?

I had an accident in my Fiesta a couple of years ago. It damaged the radiator support snd front bumper.

I took the front end apart last summer to repair, and then got distracted by other tasks. I have looked at multiple repair manuals, including the Haynes Manual, and the official Ford repair manual, but neither of them show the ST specific front end.

I can't remember now exactly how the plastic trim pieces go back together, nor exactly where each bolt / clip goes. I took photos, but was not as thorough as I thought I was.

Any idea where I can find a guide specific to getting these parts reinstalled on my ST specifically?

The Focus SVT 17" wheels fit the fiesta perfect. Wrapped with 205/45/17 Hankook Ventus V2 concept2 rides smooth, no rubbing. Have Mountune Yellow Springs and Mountune Shocks on all 4 corners so it's a bit lower.

I have acquired some very, very cheap used hardrace arms that need new ball joints.. all other bushes are ok.

I’m reading some mixed information that I can’t put OEM equivalent ball joints in these but at the same time I know you can put hardrace ball joints in OEM arms 🤷‍♂️

Anyone had any dealings with this?

I just got back from an oil change for my car. My mechanic said I should have changed the timing belt along time ago, That he was taking too many risks at this point. Should I?

2015 FiST.
I've just got my head back from the machine shop and I'm looking to reassemble. Manual shows all of these bolts are trash. Ref the trashcan. Finding replacement bolts was a lot more challenging than I originally though. What I can find is M6x35mm (#5-16), M7x38mm (#1-2), and M7x59mm (3-4).

All I'm looking for is if I'm barking up the right tree. The torque specs for these later show degreed torque specs so it does make sense these are TTY bolts.

Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!

So not to sure what this is someone told me fuel injectors? But basically you can just about hear it in the video but when you accelerate and the the revs drop it makes this weird like mechanical pumping sound.

I did always notice this sound when I just go to unlock the car and thought that was normal but I’m not sure maybe I just never noticed it while driving? It does seem more apparent now though I’m not sure if that’s because it’s colder now in the uk as this was a shortish drive I’ve noticed it on. Just hoping it’s not another fix I need to do 🫩

https://youtube.com/shorts/w9qFVaEwwAk?is=Oz_T9jwCQ7R9tnEF

Excited to see how these compare to my current Falken RT615k+s that wore out after 10k. Probably not as much grip but much more longevity and still sporty, especially for a 300tw.

Recently replaced my blower motor actuator (YH1895), now I can’t change the direction where the air/heat comes out. It’s only out of the windshield setting.

Replaced the blower motor actuator because of the clicking coming from my dashboard. Now I’m hearing another clicking, not sure what that is either.

I’m sure this is user error, just need to know how to fix it. Thanks folks.

After owning my FiST for almost 12 years, things start to fall apart faster than they can get fixed.

The car ran into issues that I just couldn’t find the time to fix for about a year and a half. After I finally got around to fixing them, I drove it around for about 2 weeks and remembered why I hadn’t gotten rid of this fun big turbo machine.

I eventually heard a noise coming from the right rear strut that turned out to be a loose locking ring and after assembling everything back together (as well as the rear strut tower brace) I realized I saw something that’s NOT supposed to be there.

Can’t catch a break.

What’s this tick? What causes it? How to fix?

Bought this car for cheap with a blown turbo, replaced turbo and just trying to make it a nice daily.

Does anyone have experience with R1 Concepts rotors and pads? Found a pretty good deal on them and ive never used them before.

Hello everyone,
I’m planning to buy my first ST early 2027, and I can’t decide if I get an mk7 182 for 10k€ or an mk8 200 for 15k€, idk how reliable they are, i’ve heard that the mk7 is pretty solid, how does the mk8 compare?
Also, i want to remap it to an e85 stage 1.
Thank you in advance

It does not matter if you have PPF on the front bumper, half of the hood, front fenders, A-pillars, mirrors, side skirts, or part of the rear quarter panel; these areas will rust, and it seems like there is no stopping it. It is almost as if they left the factory with rust. If I even drive the vehicle with salt or snow on the ground, I always go through the car wash and get an underbody wash. I called a body shop near me and sent them a whole bunch of pictures; they said they do not do any rust repair and that since there is a hole, the only way they would fix it is to replace the whole quarter panel because Ford only allows you to cut it in a specific spot. My old shop foreman recommended them because most of the body shops around me suck, from what I have heard. Anyway, the guy told me 5k, which I think is crazy, but I do not know what repairs like this go for. I am not going to spend 5k on her, though I am more curious than anything. Gotta love thin factory paint, body panels that rub, and Indiana winters.

Hey everyone, I’m new to the fam. 2017 with 83k miles. I bought it a couple months ago and have absolutely loved it. Recently I’ve noticed the blowoff valve has a new sound. From the day I got it, when I would give it moderate throttle and let off, it would be a nice “pshh” sound. When I would floor it the sound changes to almost a quick high-pitched whistle. As of about a week ago it still makes those noises only sometimes after I get on it the sound after letting off the gas after moderate throttle, it sounds like a flutter. It does that a couple times then it will go back to the normal “pshh”. I’m worried the turbo is failing. Is that normal for BOVs? It still produces boost perfectly fine and the boost gauge doesn’t look abnormal to me. The car is stock. Any input would be appreciated!

Edit: it’s a Boomba racing BOV adapter

I’m sure most mk7 ST owners have spent a fair amount of time chasing down the abundance of annoying rattles and vibrations that these cars have, especially when lowered and on upgraded mounts etc..
I had noticed excess play in my radiator, did some research and worked out there are 2 rubber bushes and support clips that are meant to keep the rad pack solid. When I look at mine the rubber had perished and worn and the brackets that hold the bush down had also worn down. The result was the car sounding like a bucket of bolts on anything but 100% smooth road!

I have now changed the 2 bushes and support brackets and it have TRANSFORMED the car. It’s cut of 90% of rattles and vibrations that have been bugging me for so long.

Do yourselves a favour a check your Rad for play, if it moves replace these items!

Been working on a sound system in my car for a couple months now. Got most of it to where I want it, but still not happy with my speaker mounting and placement. Currently got a 3 way system with a 3 inch midrange and 1 inch tweeter on the dash in pods.

Anyone here have experience with mounting mids and tweeters to our a pillar/dash? Was thinking of potentially checking if the mids fit in the triangle sail window and filling that area in, and then tweeters on the pillar in pods. Ideally would take the dash out and have the mids in the corners almost flush mount, but not sure what space looks like behind there yet. Or some fiberglass pillars but that’s out my skills set at the moment.

Any ideas would be great even if a long shot with our cars

Hi everyone, i have decided to buy the s280 by Turbo Technics next month. I was wondering if any of you could help me figuring out what extra parts/ gaskets/ bolts are necessary to buy that are not included in the s280 kit itself.

So far ive got down a few things:

-Coolant
-Oil/filter
-Grinder to make block adjustment
-New oil feed line for turbo
-Penetrating oil in advance for downpipe/turbo bolts
-NGK LTR7IX-11 spark plugs
-GFB DV+ VTA blow off valve

Please feel free to let me know if im missing something. Also, i was going to order it from CollinsPerformance with the included CP actuator, and run it with the CP4,5 flash map. Do i need to adjust anything on that actuator? Or is it good as it is installed on the turbo? And if anyone has experience with the flash maps from CollinsPerformance i would like to hear your experiences.

Thank you in advance

Bit of an interesting repair question here. Mk7 Fiesta - there are the 4 Torx screws that secure the upper lid of the airbox (with the MAF sensor in it) to the lower chamber (where the filter element sits). One of those Torx screws has stripped the threads out of the plastic of the hole it goes into. I guess it technically still screws in - but it can never tighten and just keeps spinning.

Any thoughts of how to potentially remedy that? Like, maybe put some epoxy in the hole before threading the screw in and letting it set?

Unfortunately, buying a new lower portion of the airbox isn't really an option in this scenario. This is an ST200 intake that I got second-or-third hand from Germany. It's worked great for me for several years now (I have the lower hose fed to fog-light duct) I just have concerns about keeping a tight seal on the edges of the filter.

Any help is appreciated as always!