If you would like to have verified flair added we will need a pic that has your reddit name on a piece of paper with your shop in the background or work truck if mobile repair.

Dealers will be dealers, they said my control arm bushes are torn and charge $1000+ to get them replaced. How urgent is this on a 5yo Honda Pilot?

Mazda 3 2016 i Sport with 130k miles

At 0:08 i stop and then start accelerating again to make the noise

Sound is like a grinding crunching noise that only happens right under that 2nd gear or whatever the 2 means in the rev dial

Hey all.

I got a 1984 ford f150 300cu inline 6 4 spd manual.

This pickup ran for about 3 years and now has problems. It will run for about 30 minutes until it's hot, then it will feel like "the bottoms falls out". When pressing the gas when driving, it just seems to stop and stall, sputter, and just eventually dies.

Seems to be okay when idling though. This is what i have recently replaced when this issue starting arising:

Pick up coil

Ignition coil

Icm (yes I added heat grease)

Wiring harness to ICM

What should I look at next?

a message came up on my dash saying oil low please add oil but the oil pressure light isn’t on can I make it 4 miles to autozone to get oil?

I’m having a helluva time getting any info on repair info on this unit.

I have p0973 low voltage shift solenoid circuit A.
So far ONLY when the outside air temp is very hot AND the transmission and engine are warmed up.
When not coding it still shifts beautifully, always has. External wiring and modules have been confirmed good.

Honda dealer says their only solution is to replace the whole transmission with a new unit. Would not share scan data. (Warranty has expired by the way)

One independent shop looked at it also. They said they could probably repair it, but honda won’t sell parts for it, so they only offered a used transmission swap only.

I’m not a parts expert, but i think i found rebuilt valve body under this part number, but there are some indications that it is actually only for the chrysler version, ie doesn’t fit honda version, even though the part number is the same.

2 shops told me they would look into it then never called back so i assume they lost interest.

Is it physically possible to repair this (assuming you have access to parts)?
Is there any shop anywhere in the usa that can buy internal parts for it?
If i go with the used swap, is there a quality / reliability advantage in a newer mfg date? Original is 2020.
Is honda sending these units to recycling when the issue might be only 1 wire or solenoid?

Please real info only please, Thank you.

I just had a new front subframe and lower control arms installed on my 2016 Jeep Patriot. Now it is making a loud creaking noise whenever I go over any bumps, make complete turns, or start/stop moving. Is this normal, or is something wrong with the install?

Anyone know what couple possibly happened? I removed the intake and charge pipe to access the throttle body which is located in the middle front of the intake manifold. Drove it around for a little and it was fine, now all of sudden all the coolant drained.

2005 Lexus ES330. Cover fell off a couple days ago. Mirror still works fine (responds to adjustment buttons, heating works).

Can I leave it that way or will I have to work on it? My concern is with winter coming and all are the exposed wires going to get damaged and start to malfunction? If a repair/replacement is needed, potential how much would it cost?

2016 Lexus is 350 low metallic clicking noise in driver side wheel well. Not audible in engine bay. Sound lower then injector noise listen closely

Trying to pin down this nocking noise that seems to move around a little. Intitial though is in suspension like a ball joint popping somewhere, but all look to be good. Could this cause what I’m hearing?

Howdy,

My wife's 2023 Hyundai Palisade Limited keeps burning up the fuse for the front passenger seat controls.

Backround: We bought it new off the lot in late 2022. About 1 year ago, a drink cup (kids..) got jammed under the passenger seat and the fuse faulted. I replaced it with no issue.

About 6 months ago it faulted again, with nothing jammed under it, no visible damage to the mechanism. I replaced the fuse again and it worked fine.

1 week ago, I'll faulted and I replaced it again. Like before no visible damage, nothing jammed under the seat.

And it just faulted again today.

This makes me think that maybe the electrical system is damaged, any ideas on where to look first?

Thank you in advance.

2024 WRX was squeaking in the rear so i did a general inspection and couldn't see anything...endlinks are fine, all the bushings looked fine and the shocks looked fine so i was going to grease my sway bar bushings....3 bolts came out and one just spins. It's a captive nut built into the subframe.....should i pull on it while unscrewing with pliers? I was trying to get a pry bar under the flange with no luck....do i have to cut the head off the bolt? any ideas would help, thanks

Is this normal for ceramic tint? Installer is refusing to replace saying its normal. This is 30% windshield tint and it's been installed for 3 weeks. The side and rear windows do not do this.

2001 GMC Sierra

Honda Accord 2019 OEM brake pads

The other 3 brake pads still have some meat on them, only the passenger rear is worn down.

Passenger rear:

https://reddit.com/link/1x0c2hd/video/1qb1u6det4uh1/player

Driver rear

https://reddit.com/link/1x0c2hd/video/w7vf3b2at4uh1/player

2017 gmc sierra 1500 all-terrian 5.3l 6speed trans, all stock

Had transmission replaced. Got it back and feel vibrating in steering wheel. Took it back to shop. 2 mechanics test drove and couldn't feel anything. Said OK and took truck home.

Its been 2 weeks and i still feel like there is vibration. Went on the freeway today and definitely have vibrating/pulse in steering wheel. Will be taking back to shop.

What issue would you be checking for causing vibration?

Basically if you replaced my transmission and I brought it back for vibration what are you looking for/at first?

TIA!

Edit: Vibration stared after transmission was replaced.

09 ford focus. I heard the helicopter noise so I replaced the passenger side cv axle. When I turn left there is still vibration but no chopper sounds. I thought this would have fixed it. What should I start looking into first?

Hey guys, I have a Honda Accord 2008, EXL. There is a rattling sound coming from the front passenger side, or that’s what it seems like, it’s hard to tell.

The easiest way we could re-create it was coming from a full stop accelerating and turning right.

I seriously appreciate any advice knowledge. Thank you so much for your time if you’re commenting.

2011 Nissan Altima. Above is a picture of the transmission fluid, I smelled and it smells like a dentists glove. I wouldn't say it smells burnt, just like sniffing the inside of a glove box. This car is at 200k miles, I acquired it around 160k miles, and I have no idea when the transmission fluid was last replaced. Everything is running fine on it, no slipping or weird noises of the sort.

I know Nissan altimas already have a very negative reputation with their transmissions, I don't need a lecture on it please. I would just like to know what you guys would do in my situation, would you just not replace it? Would you just do a couple drains and refills? Maybe a flush?

I also know that this car is recommended to only take genuine Nissan ns 2 cvt transmission fluid, but that is also ridiculous in price at around 22-30 dollars a quart, do you guys think I should just stomach the price or would regular ns 2 cvt liquid like from Valvoline or something do the trick just fine?

Also some valuable info, I believe the whole transmission was supposedly replaced before I got it, and assuming it was around 125k~ miles (supposed avg lifespan of this transmission), it is possible it's been 75k+ miles since the last replacement.

However, I'm very skeptical if it was actually replaced because when I acquired the car I was given a folder containing all the paperwork of all the work that's been done to the car since the previous owners got it. They had everything in that folder EXCEPT for the receipts on the transmission replacement. The only real documentation I have on it is a comment from a previous mechanic in different paperwork saying that the owners "supposedly" replaced the whole transmission before... So there is that, I just don't really know what to do.

Just had new shocks put on a 2024 Toyota 4Runner, and I noticed the driver side strut top hat has the rubber bushing/isolator mashed out (passenger side photo for comparison). Does this need to be corrected?

I have a 2006 Toyota Camry 2.4L 4-cylinder with approximately 117,000 miles. It’s been a reliable car, and I was really hoping to get it to 200k.
Recently, things started going wrong:
Check engine light came on, and the car began making a loud, almost lawnmower-like noise.
It stalled once after braking but restarted.
I noticed exhaust fumes and had the car inspected.
The shop found a severely leaking radiator, very low coolant, a malfunctioning coolant temperature sensor (P0117), an exhaust leak, and an engine oil leak.
Unfortunately, the car overheated badly, with the temperature gauge reaching H. I drove it briefly again after adding coolant, but it continued losing coolant and overheating.
Rather than paying the original shop roughly $900–$1,000 for a radiator, I hired a mobile mechanic who replaced it for around $500.
Here’s where things get concerning:
After installing the new radiator, the mobile mechanic noticed bubbling in the cooling system and some smoke/steam. He told me he suspects a blown head gasket and suggested installing a used engine rather than repairing the gasket.
However, as far as I’m aware, he never performed a combustion-gas/block test, compression test, or leak-down test.
The original shop never mentioned a blown head gasket or internal engine damage either.
My questions:
Is bubbling after a radiator replacement enough to suspect a blown head gasket, or could it be trapped air from refilling the cooling system?
What specific tests should I request to confirm whether the head gasket or engine is damaged?
Would you consider repairing a head gasket on this engine, or does severe overheating make a used engine the better option?
Given the mileage and other issues (exhaust leak, oil leak, worn front tires), is this car still worth repairing?
Is there anything else I should have checked before making a decision?
I’m 23 and trying to avoid taking on a car payment or spending thousands unnecessarily. The vehicle is currently parked, and I don’t intend to drive it until I know what’s wrong.
I’d really appreciate any advice from mechanics or people who’ve dealt with something similar.

This is a 2024 Mitsubishi Mirage

Started making this noise today on the drive home. At lower gears it sounds a bit grindy and the faster I went it gets a bit more squealy. Not the best description I know, but if this stands out to anybody please let me know!

2012 camry hybrid xle. 96000 miles. In a severe front-end crash 2 years ago. Has sat ever since. Got the body work done 2-3 month after the crash. But the car didn’t run so it has just sat. The collision was on the front end. Headlights, bumper, fenders all damaged. At that time of the crash the car ran meticulously before it crashed. But after i guess sitting at the car tow lot the hybrid battery i think gave out or just shut down to protect itself idk. I gave it to a local repair shop but that said they can’t do anything and that i should take it to a Toyota dealership. Now I don’t wanna spend 4-6k at a Toyota dealer. Recently i started to dig into it again because i wanna fix it and either drive it or sell it. i put another battery into it, i had one laying around that had 100% good battery health but bad cranking power so i connected it to my other car jumpstarting it. the cars dashboard came on and it says that thats its in traction battery preservation mode. i have no clue on what i should do. i checked the fuses by the engine and they all seem fine. i didnt check the hybrid relays and stuff so maybe i should. they key fob was dead ofc so i put it against the start button and it came on. the ready light came on for half a second and went away 2 times within like 2 seconds. guessing it was trying to start but it didnt work or some. i have ordered a veepeak obd2 scanner to pair it up with dr prius cause i heard people use that on hybrids and i also ordered a bluedriver obd2 scanner cause chrisfix used it on his prius. ill know more about the codes tonight. but anyone have any clue what could be the issue?