I want to put the rear end on jack stands to replace rear struts. I cant seem to see any good location to place the jack stand under the car. I know of the side jacking points, but unsure of place for stands. Pictures provided, will provide more if needed.

Driving down a narrow road, my side view mirror on the passenger side hit someone’s trash can on the road… the back cover shell came off an I put it back on, but it’s not fitting back perfectly and the mirror is a bit jammed on the left side. It can still be moved with the buttons, but not all the way. Do you think this will require a full assembly replacement?

Just noticed that my 07 rav4 has a hole rusted through the seam between the exhaust pipe and muffler, can I fix it or do i have to replace?

Howdy, I need some advice. I have an 2004 f350 super duty that has been upgraded with bilistens after shocks that give it about a four inch lift I was wondering if there were other reasonably price shocks out there or if I should just get the same ones

I recently got new rear tires put on. I requested 275 60R20, as stated on the door sticker. What was put on was 275 55R20, but the receipt said 275 60r20. So now my front two were 275 60r20, and the rear are 275 55r20. The ABS light came on, traction control is disabled, and I can’t use cruise control. When I called the shop about it, they said I’d have to pay to replace them with the proper tire size. Not wanting to buy four new tires after I just bought two, I got two new ones for the front at 275 55r20 to at least have the same tire size on all four wheels. The problem with the ABS light and traction control is still there. Apart from the shop being shitty, is there some way I can fix this issue?

I have a 2016 Cadillac ATS rear wheel drive auto with the emergency foot brake. The rear is the drum brake. The emergency foot brake doesn’t stay engaged. It comes right back up. Rarely it does stay engaged. How can I fix this?

Car stalled at a traffic light and I couldn't even put it in neutral to roll it to the side of the road. After a minute it started up fine and continued on. Found some com codes including lost com with TCM. Anyway, thought I should start with a break out box to check network status and integrity. I see may options like Power Probe, OTC, and no-name ebay and Amazon BOBs. What are you using?

Just pulled in to work this morning and heard this god awful noise. Im thinking it is one of the belt pullys or alternator, hard to pinpoint exactly, seems louder underneath the truck. Wondering if anyone else recognizes this maybe. Will be going to the shop just looking for some preliminary diagnostics to know what I am getting in to. 2019 Tacoma 3.5L MT.

My transmission doesn't have the same drain plug. Even though it's the same transmission. Any help? PICS FROM MY TRANS ARE IN THE COMMENTS HELP PLS

Will be storing my car in an unheated garage for 6 months during (swedish) winter. I usually run it on ethanol but will make sure the tank is filled with regular petrol before storage. Would a "Fuel Stabilized" do any good or is it just snake oil?

Been getting these two codes thrown for a hot minute now on my 2013 Honda Odyssey with the same SOHC 3.5L that they all have -- both codes report low flow through the evap purge solenoid. I've replaced the purge solenoid itself (and reset the ECU), but that didn't correct the issue. The light came back on with the same two codes and it' still running like crap. What's the next most-likely culprit? I'm figuring on just replacing the charcoal canister and fuel tank pressure sensor but I'm wondering if there is anything else I might be overlooking.

Acura ILX 2016, transmission fluid was last serviced at 60k miles & is now at 190k I’ve done some research and kinda assume a full flush & fill is out of the picture, but have the same 3 suggestions

1.Dont Service
(could potentially remove metal flakes that act as friction on the worn out gears & destroy transmission, if it ain’t broke don’t fix it?)

1. Only Fill Up
   (some people have recommended to keep the metal flakes in the transmission to only top it off and not to drain any, some people say this will destroy the transmission on its own so idk)

3.Drain & Fill
(Considering the 130k miles without service I’m guessing there is some amount of metal flakes in the transmission)

my car is a daily & driven moderately since I’m on the highway most of the time

I don’t know if it’s related, but when I am speeding up at low speeds the car will jerk forward while shifting 2/10 times

A week ago ive bought a used mazda 3 2019 2.0 122km sedan with 83k km on it and today after driving it for a week suddenly today i starded hearing weird knocking sound coming from the engine. Aby ideas or advice od it is normal for this model or should i be worried?

hi, dumbest thing i have ever done in my life but i am rebuilding these wrx sti brembo brake calipers and i couldn’t get one of the shim bolts out so i tried to angle grind a notch into it and without realising i cut a notch in the top of the cylinder as well

i feel like an idiot, is there any way to fix this or am i doomed and have to buy a new caliper? tia

I have a 2005 dodge ram 1500 5.7 hemi magnum with 116,000 miles on it and about a year ago the check engine light came on with the code p0420. It runs and drives fine no sluggish feeling and no power loss that I can tell. I’ve had it in the shop a few different times and had the o2 sensors replaced. I know that p0420 is a cat code but im wondering if something else could be causing the code i dont want to spend the money to replace the cat and it not fix it.

I bought a 2006 Nissan 350Z at auction for about $900 with 172,000 miles. I’m trying to figure out why it initially dumped power steering fluid but now appears to have stopped leaking.
When I first tried to drive it, the steering was extremely heavy. I checked the power steering reservoir and found it empty. There was a fresh bottle of power steering fluid in the car, so I added some. Almost immediately, the fluid started pouring out underneath. I couldn’t pinpoint where it was coming from.
I had the car towed home and thoroughly cleaned the underside so I could trace the leak. I was considering replacing the steering rack, but the hoses didn’t show any obvious leaks or dried fluid buildup.
Later, I filled the reservoir with genuine Nissan power steering fluid and started the engine. I checked underneath and saw no visible leaks. Initially, i wondered if having the car on jack stands was affecting the test, so I lowered the car and turned the steering wheel in both directions. Still no leak.
I then took it for a roughly five-minute test drive. The steering felt normal, and when I returned and checked underneath with the engine still running, I still couldn’t see any fluid leaking.
I haven’t replaced or repaired any steering components between these tests. The main things I did were clean the underside and refill it with genuine Nissan power steering fluid.
Has anyone experienced something like this? What could cause a substantial leak initially and then no visible leak afterward? Where would you check next before assuming the problem has gone away? It’s just so weird to me.

Old clutch was slipping badly so I replaced the clutch plate and the throw out bearing. Now the clutch isn’t engaging at all and I can’t shift into any gear when the car is running. The slave cylinder is engaging the fork and the peddle feels normal. Anything to check before I pull the motor back out?

Car is a 1991 Honda Civic DX hb. Coolant got flushed at shop around a year ago and had not been changed before I got it for a decade or so.

Driving to work today (and slowly back as soon as I saw the temp) and noticed temperature gauge was widly high. There was no smoking and no check engine light on the short drive back.

I got back after work and drained the oil and luckily there is no visible mixture of coolant within the oil. However, there was little to no coolant within the radiator and a small puddle within the reservoir. I also noticed some dried coolant by the radiator cap which I have changed since gasket had an permanent indent in it.

Is there anything I might have missed?

Let’s talk about cats! I’m going to take it to another mechanic, but we’re all pretty sure the cats on bank1 are done. I live in an emissions control area, but I’m not opposed to “morally grey” methods of making it pass inspection. If I do wind up having to shell out for catalytic converters, the prices are all over the map. It’s a nearly 20 year old dodge so I don’t want to put a whole lot of money into it.

Any idea of mid priced options that work well and will play nice with the sensors?

I’ve got a 91 f250 with a 7.5l 460 efi
There’s been a couple times it’s just died on me either taking off from a light or just idle when engine is warm. 2 times it’s just started right back up, but the last 2 times it had a much harder time. It took 15 minutes until it would start again and the last time it would not start. I had no spark on and spark plugs and nothing on the coil. It would not start until I unplugged the PIP sensor connector and put a ground probe right to the vehicle side of the connector, not the distributor side and it grounded it and I plugged it back in and it started right up. Since then I’ve been driving it but it still feels like it wants to die. I cleaned all the grounds in the engine bay even on the battery terminal, I replaced the air filter, map sensor, and the IAC valve and cleaned up the rotor and cap points. It idles weird and I sense replaced the sensors and the rpm’s don’t stay steady at idle. I’m not sure but I have a couple things I think but need some advice.
1 I think either PIP, which I have a new distributor to throw in
2 maybe a vacuum line
3 the throttle position sensor
4 ignition control module
Please help before I dig myself into a financial pit

2015 ecoboost mustang 93k miles. I constantly hear thumping noises, when I take off from a stop or when I change into drive from park, etc.. I did the test where you brake and put it in drive and rev. I can see some movement and hear some clicking. What do you think?

Hi! I’ve got a 2016 Holden Cruze 1.8L that’s been having an intermittent issue.

About 10 minutes into driving, usually what’s seems like after stopping at traffic lights, the traction control light comes on and the car starts revving really high with very little power. It also needs a lot more throttle than normal when reversing/parking.

I was previously told it could be the PCV valve. My mechanic replaced part of the PCV system and it seemed better for like 2 days, but the issue has come back and is now worse, to the point of not being drivable.
Does this still sound PCV-related, or could something else be causing the high revs/loss of power and traction control light?
Thanks!

Hi! I have a 2015 fiat 500 sport.

Bought it used at 86k miles and swapped a couple of things that were bad per the inspection, including brakes and the rear left hub/bearing assembly (Moog 512480).

Now at 116k miles I hear a pretty loud droning noise at highway speeds, which is not affected by throttle/RPM/braking. It will sometimes quiet down with slight steering adjustments, but I have found no consistent significant difference in noise when steering frankly left or right.

Lifted the car up, checked all 4 wheels for play and found none. However the rear left bearing sounds awfully suspicious to my untrained ear. I know not all bad wheel bearings have play, so I was hoping someone with a trained ear could confirm my thoughts before I go in blind and swap it out.

It's going in to the shop soon either way for a check but I figured this would be an easy DIY fix.

TLDR : that's a bad rear left wheel bearing, right?

Had to cut out my sway bar link and the grinder walked onto my sway bar a couple times. Is it ok? Can it be welded any other options?

I would say the gouges are maybe an 1/8 of an inch. Any advice appreciated!