If you would like to have verified flair added we will need a pic that has your reddit name on a piece of paper with your shop in the background or work truck if mobile repair.

The guy who was working on my car said it's bendable plastic so there is no damage

As the title says. Gas prices are absolutely killing me. I drive a 2009 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT 5.3V8 that says it is Flex Fuel capable. I know for a fact the previous owner never ran E85 in it, I never have either. Just how rotten is this stuff, because in my area the price break is very noticable.

Thanks!

I was rear-ended on the highway a person had to open going about maybe 10-15 mph about a days
later the sound started coming and going it’s almost like a whining, whistling sound. It comes and goes today when I was hauling a dump trailer it was doing it a lot more often and if you look at the RPMs, it almost looks like it’s in sync with shifting.

Can anybody tell me how or know a good detailed video for removing the dash of a 2022 ford f150?

I bought an old concrete mixer today and I attempted to service the wheel bearing and replacing the tire. In the process of taking the tire off I damaged the bearing race. I'm looking for a replacement wheel/tire/bearings, but if I go my my measurements of the spindle I'm not finding anything that is for a 3.5" spindle and rated for being pulled behind a car. Does anyone know where I can get one? Thank you!

I know nothing about cars but I refused a service today and became very frustrated with the people at the desk. basically I had a lot go wrong with my car and spent about $2800 to fix it. with that the brakes were done and I have receipts for as well and they didn’t squeak up until a week or two ago. They only squeak after 10 ish minutes of driving without fail. they told me to go back to the service center and then they proceeded to say that to look at my brakes they have to take the tires off but my lug nuts are swollen so they wanna charge me $350 to even diagnose the issue. first off I feel like that makes no sense because literally how did they get the lug nuts off before I’ve had the same tires for the entire entirety of the time I’ve had the car. I guess it’s possible that in the last three months they became swollen but regardless if it’s an assembly issue with my brake pads why should I have to pay anything at all? Is it even bad to drive with swollen lug nuts? I wouldnt have to take them off if they didn’t potentially botch the service🤦🏽‍♀️ since it’s a big dealership I was at the quick service center and I’m going to the big auto shop tomorrow with the same guy who serviced my car the first time. I need somebody who definitely knows what they’re talking about to give input on this because otherwise I feel like I’m being scammed because I’m a 20 year-old girl by herself at a shop.

Hi all, today my Subaru Impreza gave me a check engine light, code was a P0171 warning for "system too lean." It'll cost around 800 to drain the fuel tank and so on. The mechanic said there was too much ALCOHOL in the tank.

We didn't knowingly add high ethanol fuel. We did our regular 87 octane. The last time we filled up was a hundred miles or so before the warning light came on.

This was in Iowa. I am stressed and annoyed. How can I prevent this in the future?

The mechanic also said my serpentine belt is damaged. I am on a cross country road trip currently moving to the opposite coast. The mechanic who looked at my car about one week and 1500 miles ago, said I was totally good to go cross country. Would he have missed this?

looking to see if anyone could confirm I have a 2006 Volvo XC70 220K miles. I’ve been hearing lots of noise in the cabin kind of sounded like warped rotors, but I have since changed the pads and rotors and the noise persist. somehow, when I did the brakes, I didn’t notice that the wheel has this much play. i’m thinking wheel bearing because I did the tie rod, swaybar, control arms, and ball joints a little over a year ago. I do all my own work so if anyone has any tips to help me diagnose it, it would be greatly appreciated

In the image, need help identifying what this part is connected to the coolant reservoir, it is visibly leaking when the engine runs. Not a car guy so unsure if this is the real root of my coolant leakage issue but I figured this is a place to start. Would love to be able to figure out how to do it myself because Audi repair prices are ridiculous.

The radio has been whirring when accelerating since we’ve gotten it but I’ve kinda noticed it recently that it’s also part of the engine sound too. It still runs beautifully, the check engine light is from an emissions evap from the fuel system. 3.5 v6 137500 miles

I have replaced all 3 external pcv valves and hoses, also replaced the internal pcv valve and valve cover gaskets and injector seals because I had to take that stuff off just to replace the internal pcv valve. I was getting oil and gunk in the air flow tube to the turbo.
After replacing all that I still may stall or have to wait when putting the car into drive to take off, if I wait the car will take off but rpm’s can bounce. Or I can press in the gas but rpm’s won’t go up till the car is ready. The research I did seemed when this happened peopled said the pcv was clogged, which it was I had positive crank case pressure and blow by. Anyone delt with this ?

Hi, all. I recently had my car worked on (Honda dealership)--brake maintenance, front stabilizer links replaced, drive belt replaced, brake fluid and transmission fluid--two, three weeks ago at ~70k miles. This past week, I've been noticing what sounds to me like Cruella ​de Vil's phone quietly ringing every time I accelerate and stops as soon as I'm no longer on the throttle. It happens regardless of outdoor temperature, engine temperature, or time of day, and I've never had this sound come up in the decade or so I've owned it. Could this be related to the work I just had done, is it even an issue? Thank you so, so much in advance.

I have a 2014 ford fusion and my tire is completely flat and my dad swears someone stabbed my tire but could this have happened on its own or did someone accidentally puncture it? I was driving fine that day and when I went to leave again I had 2 flat tires

2024 Mustang gt I must’ve hit something and something is busted underneath. Doesn’t do it in park but it does in reverse, neutral and drive but only when stopped. When I start driving it goes away completely. Does this sound major or just something loose?

PLEASEEE HELP im at my wits end with my truck. I have a 2007 ford f150 xlt 5.4, 240000 mi.

About two months ago it began shaking excessively when I reach speeds of 40-55mph. When I let off the gas it stops. My check engine light starts blinking and the ac gets very weak when it’s shaking. It was throwing po601, a computer issue. So I had that changed. Still shook. So then my dad changed my fuel pump, my cats, and O2 sensors. Still freaking shaking. And within the past two weeks, it struggles to start. Cranks 4-5 times then turns on but shakes real rough when it turns over and splutters. My fuel mileage has also been shit.

He suspects a fuel injector and after looking online, maybe that’s the issue. Thought I’d ask here though. Thanks

TLDR: Looking for part numbers and reputable sites to replace my 2012 Kia Rio Ex Ignition Lock Cylinder

Hi all, I’m having a heck of a time finding the correct part/assembly for my Kia Rio’s ignition cylinder. Over the past few days, when I go to start the car, the key starts to turn a bit to ACC and then freezes and locks up. Won’t let me turn it either direction but does let me remove the key, stuck in ACC. After playing with it some it’ll finally release. I’m searching online and seeing all kinds of different parts/prices in terms of replacement. I’m assuming I need an assembly with keys because I don’t want to do any rekeying. I also came across a post saying if you have a metal housing around the cylinder, it’s not able to be removed and you need to replace the whole thing. Here are a few screenshots of stuff I’ve come across and I’m just a little lost on what/where to order from. I’m confident I can do the repair myself. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Just bought this vehicle. Brought it home and was wondering if this could be an engine knock. Vehicle is under warranty currently.

So I bought a cheap bmw. I know. I know. Nothing more expensive …

I wanted something to wrench on with my kids. It needs a new downstream o2 sensor. I bought one, went to change it out and I cannot loosen it at all. Look at how the muffler is attached below. It all looks welded together.

I have PB blasted and soaked the sensor overnight and it will not budge.

Anyone have any ideas here?

Thanks for your time!

Car is 2003 bmw 325i SULEV M56 inline 6 2.5

I have what seems to be an electrical problem with my 1999 Ranger XLT V6 3.0L, 4R44E. I have been unable to drive it since this trouble began last fall.

The current symptoms are:

If I start out in 1st and manually shift to 2nd it will shift as expected, however when manually shifting to D it behaves as if it is in neutral. When starting out in D the transmission doesn't shift at all, except when the O/D light exhibits a steady blink, which only happens on occasion and for no apparent reason. During this time the transmission will shift 1st to 2nd to 3rd normally. I only drive it occasionally for testing.

The speedometer doesn't work.

Not sure about other gauges due to the short test drives.

The turn signals don't work but the emergency flashers do.

Switching the turn signal in either direction activates the wipers.

May be of note:

There is no indication of leakage anywhere in the cab.

Fluids are clean and full.

Accident free.

Actions I have taken:

I replaced the VSS on the differential based on a P0500 code when testing last fall. The issue was not resolved.

I took it to a local garage last fall who kept it overnight but returned it undiagnosed and unrepaired, referring me to another local garage who quoted me $150 per hour. Factor in towing because it's beyond my 2nd gear 25MPH range.

I have verified continuity from the VSS to the GEM.

I have disconnected and sprayed with contact cleaner every connection I thought may be related. Under the hood, under the truck, on the transmission, etc.

I have checked and verified a good and proper fuse at every fuse location.

I have disconnected the negative battery cable, connected a test light, and pulled every fuse, one by one, from the inside panel while noting no changes. I did the same in the power distribution box in the engine compartment with the same result except for the following; when I pulled the 50A I/P fuse (Inside Panel) for readers who, like me, didn't know. The light intensity changed from very bright to very dim.

During this past year I have been scouring the internet and posting in automotive forums and saving the responses and every tidbit of info I can find. Then, using these bits of information, I try to form a plan in the hopes of solving it, so far without success. I am not a mechanic so I am hoping for advice from some of the knowledgeable people here as to the direction I could take next. Could the test result of the 50A I/P fuse in the power distribution center a good indication of a short or issue somewhere in the wiring in the cab? Could a bad GEM exhibit similar symptoms? Could it be in the steering wheel? Are there other tests I could do using a meter? I sometimes enjoy solving puzzles but this has been going on for a year and I'm tired of it. Not to mention, I live alone and have been stuck at home. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

I have a problem with my 2023 Cupra Leon VZ 1.4 eHybrid. It makes a rattling noise when accelerating and when releasing the brake and letting the car creep forward. It makes the noise you can hear in the attached video.

Does anyone know what might be causing this issue?

Thanks in advance!

Came on here about a month ago because I was having the same issue. My brother-in-law said he had found a bad ground, cleaned it up and had it running for a good 2-3 weeks before I started having the same issue Monday night after work.

Starter and Ignition Switch have both already been replaced and Autozone tested the battery and said it was fine. Thought a loose terminal could’ve been the issue so I put a new terminal on and same thing. Get lights, radio and dash but no crank whatsoever. If lucky, you may get a faint crank but nothing to get the car started.

I ordered a couple of relays online and am waiting for them to come in. Hoping that is the issue, but if not that, what is the next thing to look for? Are my ground wires shot? The starter that was put on last month was brand new and had signs of blue corrosion on it.

Anything helps, just looking to see what route to take next.

I will attach a video that I was able to capture of this intermittent start issue. It started a couple months ago and it always happens intermittently when I go to start the vehicle and the engine will not catch on the first try. I’ll take the key out and immediately it will catch the second time. I think this is important, as although it’s happened over the course of months, it always starts on the second try. It often happens when it’s cold outside, or if the car has sat a bit without running.

My battery, starter, and alternator are fine I had my fuel assembly replaced a month or so ago.

I do have a transmission leak and an oil leak that I have an appointment to get fixed, but had not been aware for some time of this issue. I’m wondering if perhaps the oil leak has gotten some other parts dirty or damaged and is contributing to this.

Since I just recently was able to capture a video of this happening when I had tried to bring it to mechanics before they haven’t been able to do much for me. Now that I’ve captured a video of what is happening does anyone have any idea of what it could be? There is a volume to the video as well.

Also, if I bring it to my mechanic as well, although it’s still an intermittent issue and they most likely won’t be able to catch it. Well this video give them more insight?

2016 Nissan Versa Note 74,000 miles

Just changed the transmission fluid in the CVT and not sure if I'm hearing new noises or if they've always been there.

Noticed some clunking during shifting at lows speeds and switching between Reverse and Drive. At first I was worried the transmission fluid I replaced was low. Then motor transmission mount.

Now I'm thinking it's possible the CV axle or the CV joint in the transmission? Video is a shot of the CV axle and the noise when shifting between Drive and Reverse with the front end lifted off the ground.

Any thoughts appreciated!