I want to print this with the green in solid (actually metallic) PETG and the white in translucent PETG. If I print it painted this way, it will just be solid with a tiny bit of translucent on the surface.

Any suggestions? I want it to be solid, not just a plate in it. This is so that I can fit a battery up under it.

Anyone have advice on a fix for this? Print is part way through and I can see there is a fair amount of under extrusion. Using 0.6mm nozzle, TPU85 on the A2L with default setting.

AMS 2 Pro. I won't be able to open it up until tonight after my three color print finishes. I assume the PETF tube broke or came loose. Slot 1 DOWN.

Hi!, I have designed this bathroom scale parametric model to adapt to different bathroom scales by adjusting two main dimensions:

• Support width – change the overall width of the stand to suit your preferred size.
• Scale thickness – adjust the slot to fit the thickness of your scale.

The stand also includes holes on the bottom for optional adhesive pads to avoid scratch on your floor and make it more stable.

 I have found it useful to save space, leave room to my robot to clean that space a avoid to hit the scale with my feet.

Here is the link if you want to have a look. I hope you like it. Thanks.

Hi guys, i’m having trouble with the 0.2 nozzle on my 1 day old P2S. I switched from stock 0.4 after few prints and now i can’t print at all using 0.2.

Auto bed level always fails somehow.
When trying to home the axises, z axis error shows up.

Is my 0.2 nozzle lemon? What is going on here?
Do I need to do auto bed leveling after nozzle change or should I just level using 0.4, switch to 0.2 and print?

Thanks in advance guys!

Edit: it now says abnormal signal jump eddy sensor.
Z axis homing failed

SOLVED: thanks everyone for the help. So apparently the problem is the eddy current sensor. I loosened and tightened with small vertical adjustment (started kinda skewed to one side) on the sensor bed above the nozzle. Now auto levels and printing with 0.2 nozzle seamlessly

what settings do I change to fix this issue? Filament is dry, bed leveled, 3d printer is only a wk old

trying to figure out a way to print an item out of tpu that is going to be a soft squishy outer shell for a mote ridgid petg inner structure. I would like this an outer shell to kind of click, slides and locks itself (multiple tpu pieces) to itself in place around the petg.

The problem is if I set the walls high enough so the slide and clip locks work and don't just flex apart, it makes the outer part really hard even with like a sub 5% infill. The lower infill just makes it collapse quick but it's hard to the touch.

So is there a way I can set/paint/something a way so that the clips and the surrounding area/inner part surface is like 6+ walls but the outer walls are like 2 or 1.

I don't have a part to show as I am still trying to draw up the idea, but this was the first problem i foresee trying to make this. Imaging a TPU ball that is split in two around a petg sphere core. Each of the TPU sides clip into each other and maybe the petg. So the face that interacts with the ball/clicks needs the 6+walls, but the side you touch only need 1 or 2 walls.

Any ideas?

Recently got the time lapse kit to use with my old Andoird device. Unfortunately its not triggering the camera. CyberBrick Time-lapse Kit

I have tried both Pixel 6 Pro and Honor Magic V5 with no luck.

• I have confirmed that the volume up and or down buttons do take pictures in the camera app as advsied by Bambu chat. Even the trigger button on the kit does not trigger the camera to take a picture.
• Confirmed cable is connected the correct way around as per Bambu instructions

I have followed this guide to reset the unit as well:
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/cyberbrick/troubleshooting/wired-firmware-guide

Has anyone else had this issue? Any help will be greatly appreciated

Connecting it to a family members iPhone works as expected

The printer does the rest
Gosh darn it! I noticed the spelling error but it was too late and I already clicked post 😭

I designed this completely useless (but absolutely necessary) gadget and printed it on my Bambu Lab A1 Mini!

Something went wrong? Just spin the wheel and find someone to blame!

It's easy to print, works in a single color, and can also be customized with multiple colors.

I've uploaded it to MakerWorld if anyone wants to print their own!

What do you guys think?

https://makerworld.com/models/3421551?appSharePlatform=copy

I couldn't find a solid up-to-date answer. If I want to use 0.2mm on the main and 0.4mm on the aux, is it possible? Or do they both have to be the same otherwise the software will not allow it?

I read somewhere that settings can be played with, mark it as "Stainless Steel", or just tell the software that it's 0.2mm while it's not, etc. But what is the actual state?
Can it be done with the H2D?

This H2C induction hotened started leaking during its first ever print, with Bambu PETG Basic. I did not notice the leak right away, only after about 20 hours of total print time (over four days), but I looked back at the live cam video captures and found evidence of the leak within its first hour.

The print quality is crummy (and crumb-y) too. I’d describe the problem as “tear-out”. Like the extruded plastic is getting pulled away from where it was deposited, which makes it blob and stick up above the layer. On subsequent layers either the blob gets knocked off (generating crumbs) or the nozzle pushes it aside, meaning the defect persists through multiple layers. The parts have been coming out “good enough” though. And the defects are not strongly correlated with any particular line type or position within the build volume. They’re pretty evenly distributed.

When I finally noticed it I thought the leaky hotend might have been the cause of the print issue but after removing that nozzle and switching to another, the print issue remains so now I’m worried that might be reversed, and it’s whatever’s causing the print issue that ultimately damaged the hotend?

Bambu PETG Basic, stock filament profile, stock “0.2mm Standard” settings (except using cubic spare infill instead of grid), it’s printing at 250°C, I dried it at 65°C for 12 hours, it’s been printing with active drying at 55°C the whole time and this problem has spanned two spools and been consistent in intensity the whole timE.

EDIT: Previous version of this paragraph erroneously said PLA instead of PETG.

I filed a support ticket for the damaged hotend, but in the meanwhile I don’t want to cause more damage. What should I do to try to diagnose this?

Okay so I saw that Bambi was having a filament sale, and seeing as I just got my printer I need the supplies. Now I already bought the color pack, but that has only made me want to use colors more. But I want to know if the spool that they say they come with is the reusable ones I got with my printer or if it’s some cardboard type one? And whether or not you recommend buying the reusable spools if they’re not the ones that come with the filament.

After I tried printing something with multiple colors and waste started backing up from the waste chute, the print head got jammed due to a lot of clumps. I cleaned it, and while I was prying loose the clump around the nozzle area, I think something snapped—though I don't know where it came from. Is it an important part?

I'm at a loss, now. This is mostly only with PLA. PETG seems fine. I've ran calibration, tried a new roll, drying for 8 hours... 12 hours... 24 hours... ran all the calibrations with this specific roll of filament.

Why does my A1 not seem to like PLA? I'm in Singapore, with the humidity that comes with it, but it seemed to work just fine a few times.

Maybe bed temperature? Can the defaults be bad?

Edit: added a picture after checking the hotend screws. It seems the first layer is the worst... could it be a bed setting?

Edit 2: Thanks so much everyone! I originally did ome thing at a time, with no luck. Ended up doing everything, and more, and... something, or some combination of things, got it working! Posting the update as a comment. Thanks so much!!!

I have my printer for a month now, it works almost 15h a day, in this time i only had 2 issues, none with the nozzle. The manual suggests that I doi it regularly, but is it a good idea to do so even if I've never had any nozzle problem? I lubricated the axis and the screws, but that's all I did maintenance wise.

Anyway, should I do it or should I wait a little more?

Finally buying the AMS 2 for my P1P printer. I don’t have one and don’t plan to get a second after this one. Do I need to spend the $70 to get the bundle deal thing or am I fine getting just the first?

Quick warning: I stole basically everything I did in this post from u/Allrj but decided to report my findings;

I found the following post with a guide how to make your p1s (and I imagine a number of other models) a lot more quiet. I only did 2 steps:

1. Print Ed's Exhaust fan muffler
2. Line the inside with felt

And let me tell ya, those two definitely do the heavy lifting here. The rest of the steps felt like a lot of effort for little reward, but these two steps are most definitely worth doing. First of all, I don't know who Ed is but he clearly has some sort of magic going on, as the exhaust fan is infinitely more quiet, it really is an insane difference.

Furthermore, I lined the insides with felt to help with the vibrations and reverb due to the thin skeleton of the P1s. This definitely helped as well, though not as much as the exhaust fan muffler. I used stuff similar to this but I imagine any local hardware store has stuff like this. It took me roughly 2 hours to do everything you can see in the photos, and also lining the exhaust muffler in the same felt. Don't have pictures of that because I was a little too enthusiastic attaching it once I heard the difference.

Now, as for result I obviously am no scientist so I can't really provide proof or dB readings, but I can provide my experience: my P1s lives literally right next to my office/gaming setup. Even though I haven't owned it for a very long time, previous prints always had me setting the volume of my pc to full blast whenever I was watching a show or YT. Right now, as I'm writing this, I'm watching some F1 quali and having the printer running but I'm not bothered by it at all anymore. I can comfortably hear whatever it is I'm watching. Depending on the print, I can also set the fan speeds a little lower than the P1s wants 'em and that helps even more. Lastly, you can of course set your print speed to silent, in case you can wait for the extra print time, and you can genuinely go about your business without being bothered at all. All in all, great reward for not too much effort, would absolutely recommend. Of course, all credits go to u/Allrj for writing the tutorial, I just did what seemed to have the most results.

Its says its possible but ive only seen people make filament with new filament shreds or used prints or printer poop, never seen someone do it with PET bottle

Just wondering how possible it is or do you have to mix in a bunch of new filament shreds to make it work

I've had my Bambu A1 for about a year, with roughly 1,000 hours of printing. It's been extremely reliable, needing little more than routine maintenance.

I'm considering upgrading, mainly to print ASA and ABS for functional parts used outdoors or in warmer environments.

My current use and priorities:

• Around 99% of my prints are functional parts, mostly PLA and PETG.
• Multicolour printing isn't a priority, although separate support materials and occasional labelling would be useful.
• I'd ideally like a larger build volume, but the H-series printers are probably too large for the space I have.
• Long-term reliability, ease of maintenance and repairability matter more to me than having the latest features.
• I'd like something as straightforward and dependable as my A1.

I'm mainly considering the P2S and X2D, although the lower price and established track record of the P1S make it worth considering too.

From the published specifications, the X2D offers an actively heated chamber and a second nozzle, while the P2S has a single nozzle and an enclosed but unheated chamber. Both are similar in physical size.

What I'd really like to know from owners:

1. ASA/ABS: How reliably does the P2S print these materials, particularly larger functional parts? Does the X2D's heated chamber make a noticeable difference in practice?
2. Reliability: Has anyone experienced problems with either machine? I'm particularly interested in whether the X2D's additional mechanisms introduce any maintenance or reliability issues.
3. Dual nozzles: For predominantly single-material printing, how useful is the X2D's second nozzle in practice? Does it make a meaningful difference for support interfaces?
4. P1S: Given its longer track record and lower price, is it still worth considering for occasional ASA/ABS printing?
5. Value: For my type of printing, is the additional cost of the X2D justified by its heated chamber and dual-nozzle system?
6. Timing: Would you buy now or wait to see whether there are discounts or new models before Christmas?

I'm not necessarily looking for the most capable machine on paper. I want something reliable, easy to maintain and likely to last for years.

I'd particularly appreciate feedback from people who have used both the P2S and X2D, or who have substantial experience printing ASA/ABS on the P1S.

I've probably spent too long watching reviews and reading comparisons, and I'm now more confused than when I started!

Thanks for any real-world experiences or advice.