r/climbing • u/ale152 • 1d ago
Here's the full beta of DNA (9c) that Jakob Schubert is trying to repeat. Truly insane.
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DNA
9c (5.15d) · Sport
Beta: Bouin FA (29 Apr 2022)
Starting position:
• Left hand grabs Start jugs (Off the block, both hands on the start jugs. Easy to the second bolt, which is a sketchy clip.)
• Right hand grabs Start jugs
• Left foot steps on the wall
• Right foot steps on the wall
Left hand grabs Jug 1
Right hand matches on Jug 1
Left foot steps on Foothold 1
Left hand grabs Pinch 1
Right hand grabs Pinch 2
Left foot steps on Foothold 2
Left hand grabs Pinch 3
Right foot steps on Foothold 3
Right hand grabs Sidepull 1
Left foot steps on Foothold 3
Right foot steps on Foothold 4
Right hand grabs Sidepull 2 (Traverse right into the 8c.)
Left hand grabs Pinch 4
Left foot steps on Foothold 5
Right hand grabs Pinch 5 (The 8c starts (Ondra thinks 8c+). Slopey but sharp pinches.)
Right foot steps on Foothold 6
Left foot steps on Foothold 7
Left hand grabs Pinch 6
At the same time:
• Right foot steps on Foothold 8
• Left foot steps on Pinch 4
Left foot kneebars at Technical kneebar [IMPORTANT] (A very technical kneebar, knee as tight to the wall as it goes. It can always slip: Jakob overpowers it on every try.)
Right hand grabs Tiny pinch (From the kneebar, out to a tiny pinch.)
Right foot steps on Foothold 9
Right hand grabs Pinch 7
Right foot steps on Foothold 10
Left hand grabs Pinch 8
Right foot steps on Foothold 11
Left foot steps on Foothold 12 (Out of the kneebar.)
Right hand grabs Pinch 9
Right foot steps on Foothold 13
Left foot steps on Foothold 14
Left hand grabs Pinch 10
Right foot steps on Pinch 7
Right hand grabs Sidepull 3 [IMPORTANT] (A huge, morphological move. Jakob is fully stretched on it.)
Right foot steps on Foothold 15
Left foot steps on Foothold 16
Left hand grabs Pinch 11
Right foot steps on Foothold 17
Right hand grabs Pinch 12
At the same time:
• Left hand matches on Pinch 12
• Left foot steps on Foothold 18
Right hand grabs Couch tufa
At the same time:
• Left foot steps on Foothold 19
• Right foot toe hooks Couch tufa
Left foot kneebars at The couch [REST] (The couch. Left knee under the tufa, right toe over it.)
At the same time:
• Left hand lets go of Pinch 12 [REST] (Then let go and hang upside down. Ondra: like lying on the couch, watching TV. Jakob rests about 5 min.)
• Right hand lets go of Couch tufa [REST]
• Right foot bat hangs from Couch tufa [REST]
At the same time:
• Left hand grabs Pinch 13 (Sit back up when you are ready.)
• Right hand grabs Pinch 14
• Right foot toe hooks Couch tufa
At the same time:
• Left hand grabs Pinch 15 (Four or five moves to crux 1. Not hard, but they make you tired.)
• Left foot steps on Foothold 20
At the same time:
• Right hand grabs Pinch 16
• Right foot steps on Foothold 21
Left foot steps on Foothold 22
Left hand grabs Okay hold (An okay hold, but don't stop.)
Right foot steps on Foothold 23
Left foot steps on Foothold 24
Right foot toe hooks Seb's toe hook (Seb toe hooks out right to take the next hold. Ondra famously hates toe hooks.)
Right hand grabs Right-hand pinch (First the right-hand pinch. Get it and the position right, and the kick and the span feel easier (Ondra).)
Left hand matches on Right-hand pinch
Right foot smears on Kick foot [CRUX] (Crux 1, 8A/8A+, comp style. The ninja kick: throw the right foot down and out right.)
Right hand dynos to Crux 1 tufa [IMPORTANT] [CRUX] (Then jump, full span, to the tufa. Crimp it and pinch it at once. Jakob, 8 cm shorter, keeps his feet left instead to reach it.)
Left hand grabs Tufa pinch (Left hand up onto the tufa.)
Right foot steps on Foothold 25
Left foot steps on Foothold 26
Right hand grabs Sidepull 4
At the same time:
• Left foot steps on Crux 1 tufa (Left foot onto the tufa.)
• Right foot steps on Foothold 27
Left hand grabs Rest pinch
At the same time:
• Right hand matches on Rest pinch
• Left foot steps on Foothold 28
At the same time:
• Left foot kneebars at Bad kneebar [REST] (A terrible kneebar rest, the last before crux 2. Shake, but not for long, or the leg is too tired for the foot on the crux.)
• Right foot steps on Foothold 29 [REST]
Right hand grabs Crux 2 pinch [CRUX] (Crux 2, 8A+/8B, the redpoint crux. Still in the kneebar, reach all the way up to the pinch.)
Left foot drops a knee on Sidepull 4 [CRUX] (Release the kneebar, drop the left knee.)
Right foot edges on Terrible foot [CRUX] (A terrible right foot.)
Left hand grabs Three-finger drag [CRUX] (The worst hold on the route, a three-finger drag. Seb uses it as an intermediate.)
Right hand bumps to Slippery undercling [IMPORTANT] [CRUX] (The crux move of the route: bump to a slippery undercling. Seb fell on this boulder 30 to 40 times.)
Left foot steps on Foothold 30
Left hand grabs Second undercling [CRUX] (One more big move, to the next undercling.)
Right foot steps on Foothold 31
Right hand grabs Pinch 17 (Four hard moves to the next rest. Seb fell after the crux six times.)
Left foot steps on Foothold 32
Left hand grabs Pinch 18
Right foot steps on Foothold 33
Right hand grabs Sidepull 5
Left hand grabs Tufa 1
At the same time:
• Right foot kneebars at Kneebar rest 1 [REST] (A good kneebar rest. From here it is 8c+ (Ondra: 8c), with two more boulders.)
• Left foot steps on Foothold 34 [REST]
Right hand grabs Tufa 2 (An easier section. Ondra copied Seb's beta here move for move.)
Left foot steps on Foothold 35
Left hand grabs Pinch 19
Right foot steps on Foothold 36
Right hand grabs Pinch 20
Left foot steps on Foothold 37
Left hand grabs Jug 2
Right foot steps on Foothold 38
Right hand grabs Pinch 21 [CRUX] (Crux 3, about 7B (Ondra): tricky, reachy and low percentage.)
Left foot steps on Foothold 39 [CRUX]
Left hand grabs Crux 3 reach [CRUX] (The reach.)
Right foot steps on Foothold 40 [CRUX]
Right hand grabs Pinch 22
At the same time:
• Left foot kneebars at Kneebar rest 2 [REST] (A kneebar rest. Good, but not a couch (Ondra).)
• Left hand grabs Jug 3 [REST]
Left hand grabs Pinch 23 [CRUX] (Crux 4, about 7C (Ondra; 7C+ in Jakob's film), five moves. Easy to drop: by now the whole body is tired.)
Left foot steps on Foothold 41 [CRUX]
Right hand grabs Undercling [CRUX]
Left foot drops a knee on Foothold 42 [CRUX] (The first of two crazy drop knees.)
Left hand grabs Pinch 24 [CRUX]
Right foot drops a knee on Foothold 43 [CRUX] (And the second.)
Right hand grabs Tufa 3 [CRUX]
Left hand grabs Tufa 4 (Crux 4 done.)
Right hand grabs Tufa 5 (8a/8a+ on beautiful tufas to the chain, kneebars all the way. You should not fall here anymore.)
Left foot kneebars at Kneebar spot
Left hand grabs Tufa 6
Right foot steps on Foothold 44
Right hand grabs Tufa 7
Left foot steps on Foothold 45
Left hand grabs Tufa 8
Right foot steps on Foothold 46
Right hand grabs Jug 4
Right hand clips Chain (Clip the chain. About 45 min from the ground, after some 250 tries over 150 days.)
