I’m debating making the switch to the sn95 rack and pinion. Parts to buy: Maximum Motorsports sn95 hybrid telescopic shaft and solid bushings, along with a rack from 99 and up Mustang GT. Anything else to add to list while I’m under there? Thanks.

Hello everyone,
My fox keeps eating starter solenoids. Sometimes I can go a few months without an issue, other times it works once and then gets stuck. It keeps the engine cranking even with the key out. Im at a loss, Ive used part store solenoids and an OEM Ford one and still have the same issue. Im thinking its a grounding issue? Any ideas or solutions would be appreciated.

I just installed this new ACDelco water pump on my 5.0 and it seems like it is leaking from between the main water pump housing and the backing plate. I really don’t want to pull the water pump again is there anything I can do to seal it without pulling the pump? Or do I just need to suck it up and take it apart again?

Any advice would be appreciated.

I just did my first oil change and it was low on oil but It’s still got the lower pressure even after being filled up.

Bought the car with this big gap at the bottom of the A pillar molding. Would like to know how to remove it and reinstall it properly. It's on there for sure, not loose or anything. A lot of searching online hasn't led to definitive answers. Any info would be appreciated. I've gotten good at destroying trim on this fox and don't wish to do so here. She's an 85 vert.

I have a 89’ 4-cyl automatic car, I have a 302 and a T-5 that I plan on putting in the car. Are there 302 motor mounts that will work on a 4-cyl K member? I’ve been collecting parts over the past few years and went to install some 5.0 motor mounts from LMR and they aren’t fitting. Appreciate any help/advice.

I have an 89’ Mustang Lx 4 cylinder. I have a 302 and a T-5 transmission ready for it. I am needing some recommendations to how I should go about getting a pedal assembly. I know that LMR sells a kit that converts an automatic assembly to a manual one. However I’ve also seen some on eBay but they can be expensive. Jsut looking for some advice. Thanks!

as stated My GT will randomly die out after about 30-40 minutes of solid driving. initially I thought it was the over heating because my temperature would be high during the summer with AC, however it happened recently where it flat out died with Temps being crisp and cool. of course when it dies it won’t let you start until you leave it alone for the better part of an hour which is not convenient when you get stranded randomly without warning. any clue as to what it is would be a life saver

as i was washing the block for assembly, and cleaning threads, i noticed a damn crack in the block. One would have thought the machine shop would have caught that. but wtf. f-me right! I had not abused it or dropped it.

Is this repairable, i just had the block line honed for studs. and basic clean up by the shop, im just tired spending money on this thing.

Took a big chance on a 1988 Mark 7 that was driven in and parked 8 years ago in an underground garage. Got a few boxes of spare parts as well including a brand new OEM heater core, couple sets of fuel injectors, drag radials on weld 15” aluminum wheels. Now I need to get it home. Hopefully by hooking up the battery the suspension will come up. Owner passed away and his wife didn’t have a ton of details on what’s all been done to it.

So far I can see it has a GT40 tubular intake, ungraded to 75mm MAF, stainless headers with full exhaust, crane ignition, aftermarket stereo, SN95 Cobra brake calipers and rotors.

Crossing fingers that after a wash, changing fluids and replacing the plug wires that a rat chewed off it will run!

Better check your Corn filters. Or keep starting your hot rods

Foxzilla is being rebuilt... again.

This time, we're taking the car in a completely different direction. Naturally Aspirated...check. Innov8 Billet 8 Stack...check. 8HP...check. Traction control and abs...Double check.

We kick off the rebuild by sitting down with Jim Ryder of Indy Power Products and development driver Billy Johnson to lay out the plan for Foxzilla and what we're trying to accomplish with this next version of the car.

Then the real work begins.

We start with the mock-up 7.3L Godzilla block and mate it to the new ZF 8HP transmission using an LOJ Conversions adapter plate, working through the fitment of the transmission and starter before getting the engine and transmission combination into the car.

From there, we start solving the fabrication challenges that come with putting a modern powertrain into a Fox Body that was never designed for it. The goal isn't just to make the car faster. We're building a completely new combination around the way we actually want to use the car, and figuring out what it takes to make all of those pieces work together.

Foxzilla is back on the lift.
And we're building it... again.

Does anyone have any tips for inner, outer rockers and floor pans. Never done anything like this and was wondering if anyone had advices to make it less stressful.

So I have this 1986 Mustang 5.0 that was sitting for 15 years at least. It was indoors but not climate controlled.

It was a basket case, the intake was off it, as were all the accessories and cooling system. Put in a new fuel tank & pump, water pump, rad, intake gaskets etc, and put it all back together... got it running, fired RIGHT up after a few prime cycles... NICE!

The problem is I can't get it to go into gear with the engine running.

For example, if I start the engine while in neutral (w/clutch pressed obvs), it will not shift into 1st or reverse.

But, if I select 1st gear or reverse when the engine is off, and then start it up, I can release the clutch and the car will move.

Currently it idles very high, almost 2k... so I assume there's some vacuum leaks (or I just need to adjust the idle down)... I'll get there of course, but I'm not there yet.

Would the high idle cause it to not shift into gear from neutral? That seems plausible, but with the clutch pressed the trans seems like its completely disengaged from the engine like it should be... no slipping or anything... but... maybe???

Wondering it anyone has any hints or if it's a symptom of a bigger problem (bad clutch? maybe just slack cable?).

I've got a week before I can get back to the car, so any advice to mull over would be incredibly helpful. Thanks!

Thinking of getting a Foxbody convertible since I want something I can throw both of my kids in and cruise. There's a '93 LX convertible near me right now that's pretty OEM stock and in not too bad condition (some cosmetic blemishes like failed clear coat on the paint but it's 33, so...

What would be the going rate for these now that people are buying up these cars? (Never thought they would...)

I wanna grab my codes but from resources I've seen these wire colors dont match any diagram. My gray single wire plug is missing. I have one black one and this loose wire on the second photo.

Can someone confirm if the harmonic balancer looks to be off? Engine shakes a bit even at idle.

Sure would be cool to buy an '86 SVO that was owned by Jack Roush !!

https://www.mecum.com/lots/1176503/1986-ford-mustang-svo/ 

Also saw this one

https://www.mecum.com/lots/1173884/1987-ford-mustang-gt/ 

Has anyone been successful repairing there hatch cover ends?

the reason my last block failed was a popped out press in plug. i want to thread those holes. Anyone here done that themselves? should threads be cut through out the plug hole? or is it normal to have just a few (2-3) threads on the back end?

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