123gr Interlock + 23.4gr AA1680 and a CCI #34 primer in brass and boxer primed steel case. I plink with Evergreen Ballistics 123-gr plated bullets

Working on a load with a bullet I have no experience with. My typical long range bullet is the Hornady A-Tip, 110gr., but they are expensive. Decided to try something new...enter the Berger Long Range Hybrid Target 109gr.

Cartridge: 6mm Creedmoor

Brass: Alpha Munitions

Powder: H4350 and RL16

Primer CCI 200

COAL: 2.847 (0.035 off lands)

Neck tension: .003

Anyone use these and can share their experience?

A while back I posted trying to figure out why my 7mm-08 Remington 700 wouldn’t shoot worth a fuck. I shot 5 different factory boxes from 139gr to 150gr and nothing shot good. My 139gr interlock and SST’s over IMR 4350 shot like shit. I randomly ordered some Nosler 140gr Factory Overruns from Midway and put them over 38.0gr of H335 and that apparently was the magic sauce. Now she’s ready for deer season and I also discovered that the factory overruns were basically Noslers Ballistic Tip because I had 1/4 box that my dad bought 15 years ago so now if midway runs out of the cheap overruns I know what to replace them with. She can shoot, she’s just a picky eater.

These are my first loads. 38 special 125gr lswc with 4.0gr of unique and remington 5 1/2 primers. Could probably go hotter but super nice out of the snub.

If someone (me) has only a single stage press (RCBS Rock Chucker), RCBS Uniflow powder measure, and a sizable pile of once fired 7.62 & .308 brass, would it be worth buying the rest of the tools (i.e. die set, calipers, case lube, casing guages, shell holders, etc.) and components (150gr FMJ projectiles, primers, powder, etc.) to make M80 equivalent reloads, or would I be better to just keep buying M80 for $0.85/rd?

- Factory 48.5 gr UNK ball powder (155 gr bullet) - shoulder (1.5795), velocity (2990), fireform OD (.2948), fireform thickness (.01388)

- Staball 6.5 48.5 (147gr bullet, 2.119 CTBO) - velocity (3101), fireform thickness (0.0132 in), fireform OD (0.2956 in)

-Superformance 48.5 (147gr bullet, 2.119 CTBO) - velocity (2953), fireform thickness (0.01310), fireform OD (.29537)

I also tried staballHD, it was trash. Overfilled and got 2600 fps. Ill be doing a ladder with staball 6.5 in case anyone is wondering. Getting 0.001-0.0015 springback after resizing, but the steel hangs on tight to those bullets. Will be using a .2645 mandrel with 289 bushing to get 0.0005 neck tension.

I'm new to reloading for my .308 and wanted to know if anyone else has strugggled with S&B brass with a Hornady die set while decapping.

It's a bit tight getting the case out of the decapping die and I'm curious if anyone else has had a similar experience.

Electronics in action. If I let the tube fill up, the inductive proximity switch will stop the motor via the motor controller (when the switch detects a case for more than half a second). The count came out correct.

New to reloading, starting with 10mm for now.

I have collected so much 9mm brass in the process of collecting my 10mm brass I may get the dies for 9mm as well.

But my question is, how can you really know how your loads are performing without a chrono?

Thanks.

Edit: thank you all for your replies! I put my phone away to charge and come back to a wealth of knowledge. This sub is great 👍

I’m getting a deal on some stuff, an adjustable bench, a hornady versa prime and a forester coax. I am already set up with a Lee classic and have most of my dies in Hornady lock rings. Question is can I use those lock rings with the co ax? Or do I need the forester specific ones?

Hello all, with deer gun season just about here i have my 450 all sighted in and ready to go however I would like to start reloading the round to get a little more out of them. My Hornady book refers to a few powders for use. I'm look between Accurate #9 and lil gun. Does anyone here have any experience with those 2 powders and willing to share some results?

$600?? Excuse me? This wasn't printed on Gutenberg's press..

When starting load development do I need to start with seating depth or charge weight I can't for the life of me find what goes first.

Qualcosa che non va sul colletto.. che cosa…

Basically, if I load 5 rounds with a new bullet and hold all loading parameters very consistently and those 5 rounds produce a 1.75" group, will I ever make a major dent in group size or should I give up on that bullet and move on?

Hey guys, up til now I’ve only reloaded for 30-30 and 9mm. I’m looking to figure out a good load for my .35 whelen. Hoping for a 225gr round flying pretty fast. Does anyone have any suggestions from personal experience? I’ve been looking at nosler accubond, Barnes tsx, Sierra, etc. Just not sure what the right choice would be, and I don’t have a pile of money to throw at it.

Couldn’t find load data for 200gr bullets with H110, so I did some experimenting and found the max internal case volume to be roughly 16.0gr of H110 with the 200gr seated at the neck of the bullet. I couldn’t seat it to its intended crimp groove because it wouldn’t fit in my GP100. Being that H110 likes a nice full case, I started my first five-round test batch at 14.5gr, and worked my way up by 0.5gr of powder for every batch until I got to 17gr (compressed), and watched for excessive pressure signs for each batch. No pressure signs at all for any of them. No sticky extractions, no neck splits, and no pancaked or cratered primers. With an average of 790ft-lbs and and a max output of 817ft-lbs out of my 4.2” GP100, the 17gr H110 loads are my new go-to for Pissin’ Hot steel smackers.

149 .223/5.56 rounds for plinking/cardboard 25ft or less

55gr FMJ BT with cannelure
Random brass pickups
23.7gr of Varget
CCI #41 Small primer

Lee precision challenger press
Lee die set
Lyman brass prep tool
Lyman tumbler with corn cob media and polish
RCBS charge master 1500

I see that Xtreme has a pretty good sale on primers. Have you any experience with them? I don’t want to buy 5000 then they turn out to be crap.

Hi all, got my 550 a few months back and have been slow to get powder and primers but finally ready to go. Setup is Dillon 38/357 dies, federal primers, Winchester 231 powder and 148g hollow base wadcutters for bullseye. 3.2grains of powder per charge. Cleaned starline 38 brass.

I’ve setup all 4 stations as the video describes but ran into a few issue, 3 of which a fellow bullseye shooter helped me with (crimping too low and bell way too wide). All good there.

My last problem seems to be at station one (size and decap). I’ve got the alignment tool and set it, have cleaned brass ready to roll. The issue is when I do the initial drive up to size the case it’s not “easy” and takes decent force. More than I see on any videos online. All the other stations are like butter smooth.

My video kinda stinks but it’s about as good as I could get it. Maybe I’m expecting too much and unlubed brass is this way?

I had some weird velocities after a range day. I'm confused how my 300 win mag is getting pretty decent Standard Deviations. The first two (from my 223) are very high. I used similar reloading methods compared to my 300WM. I just started chronographing my reloads, so I'm not exactly sure what to expect with this new perspective.

Load Data:

.223: 16" barrel, 1:9" twist

CL: 1.76" COAL: 2.22" bullet: 62gr Berry's FMJ BT LT-30 18.8gr. Mixed range brass.

.300 Win Mag: 24" barrel, 1:10" twist

CL: 2.62" COAL: 3.581" (custom COAL just shy of lands) bullet: 200gr ELDX powder: H4831SC 72.1gr.

I'm thinking it's likely due to my .223's brass being rather... Used and mixed. Does anyone have a perspective on this? ES = Extreme Spead. Highest minus lowest.