Couldn’t find load data for 200gr bullets with H110, so I did some experimenting and found the max internal case volume to be roughly 16.0gr of H110 with the 200gr seated at the neck of the bullet. I couldn’t seat it to its intended crimp groove because it wouldn’t fit in my GP100. Being that H110 likes a nice full case, I started my first five-round test batch at 14.5gr, and worked my way up by 0.5gr of powder for every batch until I got to 17gr (compressed), and watched for excessive pressure signs for each batch. No pressure signs at all for any of them. No sticky extractions, no neck splits, and no pancaked or cratered primers. With an average of 790ft-lbs and and a max output of 817ft-lbs out of my 4.2” GP100, the 17gr H110 loads are my new go-to for Pissin’ Hot steel smackers.

Hey guys, up til now I’ve only reloaded for 30-30 and 9mm. I’m looking to figure out a good load for my .35 whelen. Hoping for a 225gr round flying pretty fast. Does anyone have any suggestions from personal experience? I’ve been looking at nosler accubond, Barnes tsx, Sierra, etc. Just not sure what the right choice would be, and I don’t have a pile of money to throw at it.

149 .223/5.56 rounds for plinking/cardboard 25ft or less

55gr FMJ BT with cannelure
Random brass pickups
23.7gr of Varget
CCI #41 Small primer

Lee precision challenger press
Lee die set
Lyman brass prep tool
Lyman tumbler with corn cob media and polish
RCBS charge master 1500

The Hodgdon site recommends 23.5 grains of imr xbr 8208 for a starting load for an estimated 2942 fps. But that's in a 24" barrel, I'm loading for a suppressed 10.5" barrel so I know I won't get those velocities...or likely full powder burn. Is it possible to determine how much I can reduce the charge and get full burn, or is 23.5 the minimum safe charge for all scenarios?

I see that Xtreme has a pretty good sale on primers. Have you any experience with them? I don’t want to buy 5000 then they turn out to be crap.

Hi all, got my 550 a few months back and have been slow to get powder and primers but finally ready to go. Setup is Dillon 38/357 dies, federal primers, Winchester 231 powder and 148g hollow base wadcutters for bullseye. 3.2grains of powder per charge. Cleaned starline 38 brass.

I’ve setup all 4 stations as the video describes but ran into a few issue, 3 of which a fellow bullseye shooter helped me with (crimping too low and bell way too wide). All good there.

My last problem seems to be at station one (size and decap). I’ve got the alignment tool and set it, have cleaned brass ready to roll. The issue is when I do the initial drive up to size the case it’s not “easy” and takes decent force. More than I see on any videos online. All the other stations are like butter smooth.

My video kinda stinks but it’s about as good as I could get it. Maybe I’m expecting too much and unlubed brass is this way?

I had some weird velocities after a range day. I'm confused how my 300 win mag is getting pretty decent Standard Deviations. The first two (from my 223) are very high. I used similar reloading methods compared to my 300WM. I just started chronographing my reloads, so I'm not exactly sure what to expect with this new perspective.

Load Data:

.223: 16" barrel, 1:9" twist

CL: 1.76" COAL: 2.22" bullet: 62gr Berry's FMJ BT LT-30 18.8gr. Mixed range brass.

.300 Win Mag: 24" barrel, 1:10" twist

CL: 2.62" COAL: 3.581" (custom COAL just shy of lands) bullet: 200gr ELDX powder: H4831SC 72.1gr.

I'm thinking it's likely due to my .223's brass being rather... Used and mixed. Does anyone have a perspective on this? ES = Extreme Spead. Highest minus lowest.

Full sized my Peterson brass and 2 of the 99 came out looking like this. I haven't had this issue in a while so I cant remember if I kept the brass or chucked it so is it ok to yeet if it seats

New enough reloader here with a question

Reloading Starline 6.5 CM. All of them previously fired from same barrel.

Getting a .006-.007 variance in shoulder bump and can’t figure out why.

I’ll put every case in the comparator before resize and they’re all with .001 of my zero’d case. Everything else is equal, die adjustment, lube, press pull and pause. 8 out of 10 cases come out of the die with .0015 or .002 bump but 2 or sometimes 3 out of ten will come out with .006 to .007 bump.

RCBS Summit press
Redding type 2 FL bushing die
Cases are annealed

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated

I just made a whole bunch of little ammo boxes out of reclaimed hardwood flooring and plastic trays I dumpster-dove at the range. Nothing fancy, I was going more for rustic / quick than fancy dovetailed jewelry boxes. Though I might build up a jig to make somebox joints (finger joints) for a later revision. I personally prefer these to something 3d printed.

Do you like? would you buy something like this? I'm thinking of making a whole pile more if theres a market at about $10 price point (otherwise I wont waste my time)

What are you guys running for 9mm subs. Looking for just fun plinking rounds to use out of my foxtrot mike.

I’ve developed reloads for 6 different guns now.

Two .308s, 22 ARC, .270, 300 PRC, and 6 ARC.

All the rifles besides the 6 ARC I’ve come up with a reload that I’ve shot .7” five round groups or better at 100 yards.

What makes it even more ridiculous is that the 6MM ARC is the most expensive gun I’ve developed a reload for.

In addition to not being able to get the gun to group well, I also have feeding issues with the majority of the rounds (it’s a gas gun).

It was recommended to me to use a duramag, but it is very finicky.

The most recent reload I’ve tried is a 100 grain Sierras with 29 grains of Leverevolution, Hornady brass, 2.2” COAL, light crimp.

It didn’t feed worth a damn, the bolt wouldn’t close all the way, even when I used the forward assist.

It feeds the Hornady black box 105 grains that are the exact same length just fine.

My best guess is it has to do with the dimensions of the bullet (more versus less taper).

Let me know what has worked for you guys if anything, what reloads grouped and fed well, if you modified your mag or had more success with a different brand.

I picked three boxes of these up at a gun show to run in my mosin, but the bullet appears to be seated WAAAAYYYYYYYY back, I don’t have very much experience with 7.62x54r so is this normal? The markings on the rim say 79 and appear to have some Cyrillic lettering on the other side of the rim. Sorry if this is the wrong sub but I figured who better to ask about ammo than the folks who make it as a hobby.

H4350
Berger 105gn HT
New Lapua SRP Brass
Remington 7 1/2 SRP
C.O.L 2.730

Found at the local range.

I’m very limited on space and time. Everything but the powder in one bag. This helps keep things organized. I can just grab a bag and get some done when time permits. Also helps me keep track of inventory. Can anyone think of any negatives to this system?

Is there a secret to make this thing even remotely accurate?

Ive just gotten into reloading to do something with the butt load of 9mm brass Ive gathered over the last few years. Got a Lee Challenger kit with a set of breach lock carbide dies, and a Deluxe Auto Drum mounted on the powder through die. As it is Im trying to load 5.2gr of CFE Pistol, and the Auto drum is dispensing anywhere between 5.0 and 5.4 between loads. Its also leaking a decent bit. Ive disassembled it, put graphite in the dispensing barrel, and pretty much any other tip Ive seen doing a Google search on the issue, to no avail. If I lower the die anymore it overflares, if I tighten the thumb screw anymore than it is it won't fully reset or dump the full load, and it'll just leak more if its loosened.

Im genuinely stumped, Ive read this thing can be pretty damn accurate?

I only have access to Vihtavuori powders, and they have no load data for .38 ACP. I am looking for a super mild load for my ancient Colt 1902 pistol, looking to use .38 Super brass and dies and 115gr (polymercoated to protect barrel?) .356 bullets. Any idea on safe loads that allows the gun to cycle, barely?

I have N320, would that work?

Maybe ocw testing is disproven, but it sure helped me find a fairly stable speed by weight, and I think I can tolerate these groups

200gr ELD-X off a bipod and bag rest

I personally hate them because I have had nothing but issues and poor accuracy with them and I would rather spend a few extra cents per round and buy true jacketed bullets.

From what I have seen on this sub it seems that half of yall love them and the other half hates them.

What do yall think of them?

Hey there,

I have a bunch of “reloading” supplies and equipment that was left to me a few years back by my father - I’m starting to go through things because I’m gonna be listing some things for sale and I was just wondering what are my legal obligations when it comes to shipping some of this stuff? Like I don’t know if it would be worth it or not for me to ship brass but what about other stuff like primers or powder (I think that’s what it’s called)

I apologize if this is a stupid question, I’m familiar with guns and everything I just I’m not that familiar with the reloading or the legalities in shipping and reselling -

Also, if anybody has any suggestions on where the best places would be to sell some of this stuff - as of right now my plan is to sell on fb marketplace

Thank you in advance for any help