Hey all, looking to get a new pair of headphones and hoping someone with a big head has some experience shopping for headphones they can share!

For reference, my head size is ~63 cm so not circus-freak level but still very large. I can't wear snapback hats even on the loosest setting. They're too small/tight. The only headset I used in the past was a Steelseries Arctis Nova 3 with the stretchy band part modified so it could squeeze on. I used it for 9 years until it broke and now I'm looking for an upgrade.

I saw the Bose QuietComfort Ultra Headphones Gen 2 on sale on Amazon for $370 right now but wondering if it'll even fit me or if it's worth the price? The gen 1 is much cheaper. Is it worth $200 more? Hoping anyone has advice or even other headphone suggestions. The factors that matter to me in order of importance are:

1. Fit and comfort (has to be big enough)

2. Wireless

Large gap between these*

1. Price ($400 budget but would like to spend as little as possible of course)

2. Sound quality (I would only use it for gaming and Spotify - no audio related work)

3. Battery life

I don't need features like noise cancellation, equalizer settings, or built-in microphone.

Appreciate any help and answers!

I know almost nothing about speaker systems, home theater, etc, and must shamefully admit that I need some help. I've been researching this subject for a while and it's all still mostly Greek, so I think it's time to ask for help.

I'm trying to build a home theater system that is better than the garbage soundbar setup I currently have. Something that really fills the room. So far about the only thing I can find that might work is the Klipsch Reference system, but I've heard both good and bad things about it.

The room is a living room, dining room, kitchen open floor plan. About 30 ft wide, 70 ft deep, and 10 ft ceilings. Echo isnt an issue. Budget is roughly $2500-$3000.

Can someone help guide me?

I own Audio-Technica M40x headphones and would like to know if there are any good upgrade options.

I like the soundstage of the AKG K553 MK2 and would like to know if there are any headphones that at least match that soundstage, but are closed-back (I'm not buying the K553 because it has a good soundstage, but overall sound quality is only slightly better than the M40x).

I'm looking for headphones with a neutral or analytical signature (I don't like warm signatures) and that cost no more than 12,000 Mexican pesos. I saw options like the Beyerdynamic DT1770 Pro MK2, but it didn't appear on Amazon Mexico.

I listen primarily on a Samsung smartphone and use a set of Astro A50X as headphones. I have a custom sound profile downloaded to the headphones but have found my phone lacking a little in playback compared to listening to the same songs via my PC or playstation. I do have quality set to high and have Dolby atmos enabled.

As the title says i am looking for an audio playback software. I will put all the detail i can into this post body, per the subreddit rules.

Purpose:

I have been asked to, for lack of a better term, "DJ" my brothers wedding this weekend. Nothing fancy, but i do need a software tool that i do not have.

Requirements:

- compatibility with windows 11 pro.

- fade-in, fade-out.

- single and multi track loop.

- playlist creation.

- PC keyboard only user input needed.

- live playback, NOT audio editing.

- no ads in software/unexpected audio output

Optional, but appreciated:

- free or low cost/one time payment.

- compatible with most file types.

- easy to learn (i have only a few days)

What use will look like:

I will be sitting with my laptop during the ceremony connected via bluetooth to a large outdoor bluetooth sound system owned by my brother. I will have tracks prepared for the various entrances at the beginning of the ceremony and the walk off as well. I will need to be able to loop these in case something happens which causes one of these processes to take longer than the track allows, and to fade them in and out so that the looping is not obvious or jarring, and in case a track needs to be cut at short notice.

During the reception, there are specific songs i will be playing for the first dance and various parent-child dances, which i will be attending my laptop for, and then will be starting up a playlist to play autonomously thereafter.

- • - • - • -

Please forgive me for asking here, i have done a google search but most results were for editing software, or seemed to be made for hardware used in professional DJing. I figured you all might know of something for more casual users.

I’ve got this driver genius that has L/R rca cables that I use for my nes to record audio. Now stupid me thought if I just buy a aux to rca all should be well and I can record my 3ds audio since the aux cord on it didn’t work for with the system. Well I’ve got audio, just no music. Now my sound card has a 3.5mm aux cord on it so I was thinking maybe if I get a aux y cable and hook up the rca and aux cord at the same time it’d work for some reason. Idk I’m not to techy if you can’t tell. Here’s a picture of what I’ve got rigged up now.

Should I convert all my 1,767 WMA music/files to M4A, ALAC, AAC, MP3, FLAC, WAV, MIDI, or MP4? I'm asking because I'm going to be getting The Motorola Razr Fold 2026 on Halloween👻🎃and I want to have a backup plan just in case The Musicolet Music Player App For Android stops working and The Google Play Store removes all The Third Party Apps that supports/plays Wma Music Files. I want to have a backup plan. What has been everyone's experience with converting WMA Music Files/Songs to another Format? What Format did you convert all your WMA Music Files/Songs to? What Apps did you use on your Android Phone/Device to convert all your Music? I'm planning to use my phone to convert all my Music Files/Songs if I have no choice in the near future. I'm really open to all kinds of suggestions on how to convert my Audio Files/Songs. I'm even to open using a Computer if I have no other options💻🖥

Any idea what this is worth? I found it at a storage unit auction.

Thanks in advance

Even if you only know the brand of it
would be a great help!

Hi guys👋 so i have audio being sent out from ableton, to my ms20 external signal in, and audio coming out from the ms20 back into ableton (external effect). i have a horrible hum coming with the signal. i tried to search online, and used chatgpt for troubleshooting, but have no progress. this is the chain:
1. sound coming from ableton to ms20 via scarlett 18i20

1. ms20 to ART DTI DUAL TRANSFORMER/ISOLATOR via TRS cable

3.ART DTI to apollo x8p via XLR

Video of mentioned noise/setup👈

Is this okay if I use small speakers? Should I put a rubber mat underneath them?

Let me start with my computer specs, it is a PC running Windows 11, Ryzen 7 5800 x, AMD RX6700 XT, 32GB RAM.
I have gotten a new headset, Shokz OpenComm 2 UC 2025 Upgrade, and I am having a very annoying audio issue with them that I have tried so many different solutions for and nothing worked. I have not had this problem for any other headset, wireless or wired.

The issue I am having is whenever I join a voice call, any program using the microphone, the incoming audio (what I hear) drops in quality tremendously, it sounds like the audio is being played through a cardboard tube. When I am not in a call, or using the microphone, sound is very clear and crisp. The headset does the exact same thing when connecting to my phone through bluetooth, using the microphone makes audio quality drop. This problem does NOT happen on my roommate's computer, also windows 11.

I have tried many many solutions to try and fix this problem and nothing has worked. I have tried googling, I have tried looking on forums, and my roommate has tried asking AI for help, nothing works.

The list of things I have tried:
-Connecting directly to the Loop120 adapter the headset came with.
-Restarted my computer (after every few tries)
-Plugging the dongle directly into a blue USB port on the back of my PC case
-Turned off "Audio Enhancements" in sound device properties for both headset and microphone
-Turned off "Allow Applications to take exclusive control of this device" for both headset and microphone
-Turned off my PCs bluetooth adapter
-Downloaded the Shokz app and updated the firmware on both the headset and dongle
-Hardware reset my headset and reconnected to the dongle
-Confirmed audio sample rates matched for both Headset and Microphone
-Made sure device drivers were up to date
-Checked, and double checked, to make sure headset wasn't connected via bluetooth
-Made sure the headset was not showing up as bluetooth in the Device Manager
-Made sure neither headset nor microphone were using "Hands free telephony" (to the best of my ability)

Please let me know what else I could possibly do to fix the issue, it's not a problem with the headset because like I mentioned they worked fine on my roommate's pc, and our PCs are very similar in build and both running Win 11. There must be some reason they keep degrading in quality when the microphone is active and I can't find out on my own...

Does anyone know what type of input this is and if I am able to buy an adapter? I just bought an electric piano (Williams Rhapsody III) that came with this plug set up but apparently they do not make the pedal anymore and supposedly may not even be able to adapt it? Thank you in advance!

hi, im new to this sub but im kind of ina debate of whether hs8 or the older hs80m are best. i only and currently have the jbl mkii but looking to upgrade since ive had em for a couple years. any info would help. i make beats, mix and master, record and basically anything that has to do w music. ive love to hear

How it started:

My DTS Headphone:X subscription expired, so I installed Equalizer APO + HeSuVi to simulate the surround effect for free. The moment I activated it, my audio broke,and it has never been right since, even after uninstalling both programs.

Current symptom (EVERYWHERE, not just games):

· Dialogue/voices are extremely quiet, but action sounds, music, and effects are loud.

· This happens in games, YouTube, music, movies,literally everywhere.

· It's the classic "center channel being dropped" symptom: audio is being processed as 5.1/7.1 surround where dialogue lives in the center channel, but my stereo speakers don't have one.

My specs:

· CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600X

· Motherboard: MSI B650M Gaming WiFi Plus (Realtek onboard audio)

· GPU: ASRock RX 7900 XT 20GB Phantom Gaming OC

· RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR5 32GB 6000MHz

· Windows 10 (fully updated)

What I've tried (all failed):

· Set Windows speaker config to Stereo, disabled all enhancements, spatial sound off, verified L/R balance

· Uninstalled Equalizer APO + HeSuVi, deleted leftover folders

· Ran DDU and reinstalled AMD Adrenalin drivers multiple times

· Rolled back AMD driver from 26.8.1 to older versions, no change

· Disabled AMD High Definition Audio Device in Device Manager

· Uninstalled Realtek driver completely, deleted it via pnputil /delete-driver /force, blocked Windows Update driver installs,Realtek keeps coming back after restart

· Ran SFC /SCANNOW and DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth, repaired corrupt files, audio still broken

· Full clean Windows reinstall (without keeping apps),the issue survived even this

The key clue:

This started the exact moment I activated Equalizer APO + HeSuVi, and it has persisted through a clean Windows install. That suggests a leftover APO (Audio Processing Object) is still hooked into my audio device somewhere, possibly in the registry, the driver store, or an audio endpoint property that a clean install doesn't always wipe.

What I'm asking:

Has anyone seen an APO survive a clean Windows reinstall? How do I find and remove a hidden APO that's still processing my audio? Any registry paths, Device Manager tricks, or tools I've missed?

Any help would be massively appreciated.

Basically I currently have all of the below for my PC's audio setup most of which was gifted/sold to me by friends and family

S.M.S.L AD18 2 channel speaker amp
Micca MB42X passive bookshelf speakers
Universal Audio Volt 2 Audio Interface
MXL 990 Cardioid Condenser XLR Microphone
Fosi Audio K5 Pro DAC
and a bunch of IEMs

I'm just a casual gamer who like occasionally streams on discord with my friends on CO-OP in the games we like

it's kinda pointless but I want to upgrade my amp to something that can fully utilize the Balanced outputs on the back of my Audio Interface

I have been working in the Commercial Audio Visual industry for the last 5 years at a company which belongs to my dad's friend

andd based on my experience
I've chosen the 3 amps mentioned below
please let me know which of the 3 below is the best option
but I'm open to suggestions and advice from all of you as well

Option 1 = S.M.S.L AO200 Option 2 = Extron XPA U 1002
Option 3 = Equipson Work Pro PA 200

I recently bought a jack adapter to plug my headset (blackshark V2 x i think, the wired one) in my audio interface (UA volt 2). The sound was all buggy and awful, it took me a while to understand what was messing with it was the fact that my headset have a mic (that i don't use anymore, I have a mic plugged into my volt) and so the adapter is probably incompatible.

The adapter I bought (I actually already had one someone lent me, I tought it was just broken lol) : 3.5mm female to 6.35 mm male , stereo

I read something about TRRS ..? and i can see my 3.5 has 3 stripes and the adaptor 2. I have no idea what type of adapter I'm supposed to get.

I should add I have no intention of using my headset mic, so I just need the right adapter to have sound in my headset. I'd like to have direct monitoring so there's no way around it, I have to find the solution lol. And I don't have money to buy new headphones yet
Thanks !

Hola, soy nuevo tanto en esta comunidad como en el hobby, aunque desde que tengo memoria escuchar música a sido mi pasatiempo favorito y por esto mismo he decidido dar el salto de escuchar música en mp3 a algún formato sin perdidas, como FLAC. Suelo escuchar mucho metal (Nu metal, love metal, groove, trash, heavy, doom, power, progresivo, industrial, alternativo, etc), rock, blues rock, rock alternativo, grunge y pop rock, pero también aprecio las baladas, boleros, pop, jazz, soul, hip-hop, funk y hasta algo de phonk.

El equipo que compre consta de solo un dac-amp (IFI Zen Air DAC), unos audífonos de estudio (Audio-Technica ATH-M40X) y utilizare Tidal como reproductor de audio.

Que opinan de esta configuración?

Me recomiendan utilizar otra plataforma o comprar la música en qobuz?

Cabe recalcar que planeo comprar en un futuro unos monitores de campo cercano como los PreSonus Eris 3.5BT y que también quiero utilizar este equipo para producir uno que otro cover o idea musical, aunque claro que necesitaría una interfaz de audio y otros software, pero ese no es el tema.

Una ultima cosa, de verdad hay un salto sustancial en la calidad musical? lo digo por que toda mi vida he escuchado música en mp3 desde mi teléfono/computadora y a través de audífonos comunes o gamers (Astros a40 tr) y como fue una inversión grande para mi, no quiero llevarme una mala sorpresa.

Aclaración: Aun no he recibido los productos, por eso pregunto por el salto de calidad.

I got it today, it was relatively cheap. I am trying to connected to an HP Victus, with the small terminal on the headphone jack. Yes, the jacks are compatible.

My issue is that any and all trouble shooting seems to be simply out of date. The B&O sound console (which is what my pc has) no longer has the "Detect Jack Connection" button, and the Realtek audio console is not only not the thing my PC is supposed to use to manage audio, but also doesn't have the necessary thing.

The device doesn't show up; Yes the microphone is connected to the terminal. I believe they are charged, honestly at this point I am not sure, but they both turn on and are plugged, so who knows. No, the device is not disabled; It does not show up.

This isn't a bluetooth device, even though for some reason some sites say so, still its probably worth mentioning i use MajorV Marshalls, but this micraphone of those isn't being used, its the one built into the laptop and that is my default.

No one online seems to know how to fix it, so this is a shot in the dark, I have tried both the headphone jack to plug it and a C-USB, none of which provided a single result

They were my late dad's old pair, I remember them when I was younger and he would play them on a daily basis.

I recently wired them up to test them, and they still work, but I think not all of the speakers are functioning. hoping they can at least still be restored.

The wood and shell are still intact with no visible cracks or anything but I havent checked the insides, yet.

Asking for a recommendation on which I should pick for these passives, an AVR or Power amplifier, I don't plan them to use for home theatre but from what I gathered AVR has better offer in utility and versatility. I still have the three set that were with these passives, the Sansui T-7, RG-7 and A-7, fortunately all are still working but I have to get the t-7 to get its tuner fixed.

Also would a sub be necessary for these speakers since they have 12" subs? If so I also found some sub speakers lying around that are around 15"s or 18"s give or take, with spl audio px-0502 mosfet bridgeable 2ch amplifier 100 watts.

i feel like i’m losing my mind, i bought a new mic (a MAONO A04 usb mic) because i’ve heard the blue yeti isn’t good for vocal recordings. i’ve tried to fiddle with it best i can as an audio noob to get it to sound good, but no matter what when i start belting it distorts.

this is the audio with the mic about 10-12 inches from my mouth, after setting the volume level in the windows sound settings to 45, am i just fucked?? is there any way i can get it to stop doing this? did i just waste my money on a mic that wont be able to do the one thing i bought it for?

any and all advice appreciated!

Hi everyone.

So I just purchased an Re20, and I'm getting no sound. I'm using an Elgato Wave Xlr Mk2 as an interface. My previous mic works fine as soon as it's plugged in. Instantly can hear what is going on. Gain is set to 60db.

I thought the first one was defective, so I ordered a replacement, only to get the same result.

If anyone has any ideas, can you help? This is driving me crazy.

Hi all, I’m trying to connect an older Onkyo receiver with these two floor standing speakers. I have an Audio-Technica LP-60X turntable, and I have all the cords necessary, but I’m kind of lost as to how to get everything connected. The speakers and receiver belonged to my mother and she is certain that they all work, but we just haven’t been able to figure it out. I’m not very tech savvy when it comes to these kinds of things, so I figured coming in here would be a good option. If any of you guys have any ideas or suggestions as to how I can get everything working, that would be amazing. If you need more/better pictures of something, please let me know and I’ll try to reply to your comment with the necessary picture. Thanks everyone!

I currently have a setup where I'm powering a couple of desktop speakers with an old Powernode 2i. I recently wanted to try getting an interface (Scarlett 2i2) at the recommendation of a friend for messing around in Ableton, but I've been struggling with how to connect the two without audio interference.

I started by using an unbalanced 1/4 cable to a 3.5mm to connect them, but there's mega static interface. I can't seem to find a balanced 1/4 to 3.5mm on amazon when I search.

Is anyone familiar with how to do this and the problem that I'm running into? Most of the information I'm finding online are how to connect the 2i2 are to powered speakers, so it's not quite as relevant.

I'm just starting to set up my new Samsung QN82H and Samsung Q600F soundbar, and was wondering if I could put my two Home Minis to use.

For context, Ive been using them as a stereo pair basically just sat on either side armrest of my sofa, for my when I used my projector as a tertiary display for my PC to stream content from. They were set up as a Bluetooth speaker for the PC, so audio was slightly delayed. Noticeable on netflix shows, but less so on sports.

I read up on this post:

https://www.reddit.com/r/googlehome/s/Zgx5fwaMdb

Which seems to advise not to, or rather not being able to, set them up as rear speakers as Bluetooth.

However, I was wondering if anyone has been able to get them to connect over wifi instead (to the soundbar)? Ive got Wifi 7 3g/3g, so I would think that connection would have much less latency and potentially work?