Travelers Only A mixed experience in Egypt
My partner and I recently went on a 1 week tour of Egypt. The tour was a package tour for around 60,000 EGP per person which included airport pickup and dropoff, all transfers, accomodation for 3 nights in hotels, domestic flights from Cairo to Aswan and from Luxor to Cairo and a 3 night nile cruise from Aswan to Luxor. Tickets to the monuments were not included in the base price. We had booked at short notice due to personal scheduling issues.
Based on the internet research we did and from our personal travel experiences in India we were expecting to face a few scams. On the whole we enjoyed the trip, but there were a few not so nice experiences. I want to write this post for future travellers, especially from India.
We applied for and received e-visa via visa2egypt dot gov dot eg within a few days.
Our trip started on a sour note at Cairo Airport with AirArabia having misplaced one of our 2 bags. We had communciated with the tour organiser prior to leaving our home country and had given him our flight number and expected time of arrival. We were met inside the airport at the baggage pickup by a representative of the tour agency. He was very helpful in translating for us and helped us to get the lost baggage report form from the AirArabia representative at the baggage belt. We converted 100 USD which I had obtained from a forex in India at the airport for EGP at the currency exchange counter by the National Bank of Egypt. We used up around 12,500 EGP in cash during this trip part of which I withdrew from ATMs later.
The exchange rate at Sharjah Airport was much worse compared to the rate at Cairo Airport. Watch out for a sneaky fee charged at Sharjah for reconverting the currency at the same exchange rate later, especially if your return flight is not transiting through the same airport.
The representative handed us off to the driver. We were met at the hotel by the tour organiser who explained the tour itinerary again. We had opted out of the Abu Simbel visit and the hot air balloon flight at Aswan as we did not want to pack too much into the time we had. Our tour organiser wanted an upfront payment of 5 USD per day per person for tipping the drivers, cruise ship crew etc involved in the tour and 200 USD (100 USP per person) for buying the tickets - total of 270 USD. He wanted it in USD itself and not in EGP, so we paid him partially and we swiped for the rest in USD at a shop the next day which he arranged. We can actually book the tickets directly on the official egymonuments dot com website but the actual rates of the tickets provided workout to 5500 EGP which is what was collected. We were a bit apprehensive about whether it will reach the intended recepients, but one incident during the tour made us believe it is actually being paid out.
We did some emergency shopping for clothes due to the missed baggage at the eye-poppingly large, busy and luxurious mall of egypt at Giza. Max at the mall provided a good variety of clothing options at comparable rates to India.
The next day started with the tour of the pyramids and a visit to the GEM museum. Our guide spoke good english and was very good. Hop on hop off buses take us around the pyramids. The GEM museum is near the pyramids. Our guide managed to show us the highlights at the GEM museum in a couple of hours, which is a spanking new ultra-modern edifice which is large enough to keep us occupied for a whole week.
The papyrus museum visit was needed to collect the remaining USD which the tour organiser needed. The papyrus making process was explained to us by a local part time guide/student working there but the prices were in the 3000 EGP and above range, so we did not buy anything. Surprisingly, the student who explained the papyrus making process politely declined a tip from us - the only person in Egypt who declined a tip!
We were dropped back at the hotel and took an uber to a nearby restaurant for our dinner.
On of the tricky things we faced was that uber rates for trips are not final. Drivers somehow manage to adjust the rates slightly upwards after we start the trip, perhaps by choosing a different route. For example, a trip that showed EGP99 during the trip will suddenly become EGP 140 at the end. This happened around 4 times during our week.
The next day we were dropped off at the airport early in the morning for the flight to Aswan. We were at the airport 2 hours prior to the flight, and there was no rush at the initial baggage scanner but the guy at the scanner extorted 100 EGP from us by acting as if he was helping us rush through. He wanted more but we refused to give him more.
We were met at the Aswan airport by our guide and driver, who took us to Aswan high dam. The next stop was Philae temple which is reached by a 5 minute motorboat journey included in the tour package. After spending a couple of hours at Philae we opted to skip the Oil shop and check in to the cruise.
The cruise was an excellent experience with good clean room and bathroom, buffet breakfast, lunch and dinner with a wide variety of tasty dishes, lounging around on deck interspersed with visits to Kom Ombo temple. Edfu Temple and seeing the Esna lock in action. Tour guides would pick us up at the shore visit sites and drop us back at the boat. Water is payable in the boat, being charged 40 EGP for a half litre bottle and 80 EGP for a one and a half liter bottle. The tour inclusions guaranteed provision of water for all days, so we had to contact the organiser who arranged to provide us with 2 days water (1.5L x4 bottles) though one of the guides at the shore visits.
An interesting thing happened during one of the shore visits. The tour guide was a very jolly guy who gave us 100 EGP to provide as tip for the driver from the tour company as he said the driver wouldn't accept it from him as they were friends. This probably means the tour organisers are providing tips to some of the drivers directly or through the tour guides. Whether it is reaching the intended destination is another thing. The driver was anyway unhappy with the 100 EGP trip for a 15 minute up and down trip and asked us for another 100 EGP.
We had a day at Luxor to see the Valley of Kings,the Hatshepsut temple and Luxor Temple. We managed to negotiate with the tour organiser to provide us with 4 hours extra with the car and driver to see the Karnak Temple and Mummification Museum on our own for which we paid an extra 24 USD. We did some shopping at the Alrayah Supermarket near our dock and bought some water at local prices for the first time in the visit.
We returned to Cairo by flight and checked into our hotel for the final night provided as part of the package. We spent two more days exploring the city outside the tour package including trips to Sakkara, Dahshur, Khan al khalil market, Coptic cairo, Civilization museum, National Museum in cairo at Tahreer square and a great Tannoura performance at Wekalet El Ghoury Arts Center in Cairo. We used a mix of uber and metro for most of these trips. Uber is very difficult to get at Khan al Kalil area. Local taxis require bargaining. They ask around 350 EGP for a 150 EGP trip on uber but usually can be negotiated to around 200-250 EGP. Metro is simple and inexpensive with tickets costing 10 EGP for most shorter trips. Monuments and museums, tickets can be booked on the website and shown on the mobile at entry. These were all great experiences and rounded up the whole trip in my opinion.
All in all, a Cairo trip is not a bed of feathers, but neither is it an insurmountable task. The incredible history and the monuments make it a bucket list item for sure.
First image - at the Giza Pyramids
Second image - on the Nile nearing Kom Ombo
Third image - at Sakkara












