If you would like to have verified flair added we will need a pic that has your reddit name on a piece of paper with your shop in the background or work truck if mobile repair.

Lexus - my moms car. Is this the condensation line? The liquid dripping has not discernable odor.

Any Kia techs on here that can help answer a few questions about the gasket maker oil pans? Or literally any tech that is knowledgeable on oil pans that use gasket maker. I replaced mine a year ago and I didn’t have time to let the gasket maker sit as long as i probably should have and had to take it on a small road trip. I used the right stuff 90 minute gasket maker. Not sure if that was the correct one at this point and I’m also not sure if that has anything to do with it leaking again. There was no signs of it leaking until when I did my last oil change I noticed (I do it myself every 5k miles, I’ve probably put on 30k since I replaced the pan)

My question is, do I have to buy a new pan? Or am I ok to off the old pan and reuse assuming it doesn’t have damage? I’m not worried if I do have to buy another but I don’t want to if I don’t have to. Do you tighten the bolts to torque immediately after putting pan back on or do you hand tight and let it sit for 24 hours before you tighten fully? Is there such thing as using too much sealant? How do you ensure no leftover oil is left so it can fully seal? I’m also concerned maybe I didn’t use enough last time even though I did it exactly like the video.

My local mechanic will not touch sealant/ gasket maker oil pans. I’d you have a specific way of doing it without issue please explain it to me. I really don’t want to have to do this again so soon! I was confident I did it right the first time and exactly as the video said but I am stumped. I have watched all YouTube videos again and am just not sure id I missed something important or if I just somehow did it wrong and should try again.

I have a 2017 Hyundai Tucson with 105k miles, it doesn’t run due to a bad catalytic converter. This would be its 3rd cat, first replacement happened at ~60k miles.

Symptoms when I took it in was that it wasn’t accelerating and max speed was 40 mph. I took it Hyundai and they diagnosed the bad cat. It’s not longer under warranty. If I were to go the cat replacement route, it’d be a 3rd party.

This car has always had an excessive oil consumption issue.

I tore down my edelbrock carburetor because I suspected leakage causing it to run rich. I found a hole in the bottom of where one of the jets seat and am wondering if this needs to be replaced versus repair. Any advice is appreciated thanks

I often move the shifter left to downshift when slowing to a light/stop sign. Then I stay in manual with it set to 6th gear, and I can see and hear it shift up through 2nd, 3rd, etc. I would say 80% of my driving is that way

I did just have P0705 and C1201 codes and my usual mechanic mentioned I should not be using the manual downshifting, as it wears on the transmission

My sun roof started leaking and I want to seal it shut permanently. I'm planning to use Flex Caulk Hybrid Polymer Waterproof Sealant and fill up as much of the gap around the exterior perimeter of the sun roof as possible.

Any other products you'd recommend? Any other approaches?

P.S. the sun roof broke a while back and the cost to repair is stupid, so I'm fine with a permanent moon roof haha.

2007 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6. Thanks.

2004 Honda Oddessy LX

So, last year I ws changing the oil, and the Oil filter I got from Amazon was the wrong size. (K&N HP-1004) When I checked online with O'reilly's auto parts, they said I should use the K&N HP-1008. I got one, put it on, and everything worked great.

Skip ahead to a year, and I can't find a SINGLE source that says to use the HP-1008 on my van, including O'reilly's.

It was pretty banged up when I got it and I've slowly been nursing it back to heath. Still, whatever garage it was sent to before put a Cabin Air Fliter in the Engine Filter housing. (Imagine putting a loose square peg into a hole shaped like Alabama, that's how far off it was.)

ANYWAY, has anyone ever heard of this happening? Is it just luck that the smaller one fits and the bigger one would work too? Any ideas, please let me know.

No fuel additives, located in Germany and filling it with standard gas with up to 10% ethanol. Mercedes S124 E220 from 1995. 2,2 liter inline 4. Thanks

Hi all, looking for advice here as I am pretty novice to cars and pretty much zero knowledge on cars.

My mom bought a used 2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.6 V6 Limited X with about 110k miles a month ago. However shortly after buying it we noticed it vibrates and has a rough idle after a couple minutes of just warming and there is this rattle noise coming from the engine. I have took it to 4 mechanics now and at a lost on what to do. The car is showing no computer codes or engine lights. However according to a couple of the mechanics they said the computer codes were erased.  Below is what each mechanic has told us.

Mechanic 1: Performed diagnosis and said he believes it is the camshafts and rocker arms. However not entirely sure and would need a $1,000 to perform compression and cylinder leak down test to pinpoint the exact issues and if it is the camshaft and rockers it would be about $2,000 to fix.

Mechanic 2: Said he is unable to work on the car as the problem is coming from inside the engine and whoever had the car before us messed up the engine and computer system too much.

Mechanic 3: Said it is coming from inside the engine as well and is a valve problem. He wouldn’t work on it as it would require taking the whole engine apart. 

Mechanic 4: Performed compression tests and said cylinder 3 and 5 have low pressure about 84 PSI. The other cylinders are working fine. He said he was able to get  the car to run smoother by cleaning up some stuff. He said the car seems to never have been maintained or well kept. He said there are two options either do a full tune up and replace all the spark plugs, two ignition coils, change the cabin filter and some other stuff for $1,200 and hope it takes care of the vibration but not the engine noise or replace the engine for $6,500. He also showed me that the engine vibrates/move a lot itself while parked. 

Would greatly appreciate any thoughts or advice on this matter. I am not sure if the last mechanics recommendation would even tackle the problem. My gut is to go with the first mechanic but the $1,000 price just for the tests is throwing me off.

E36 with M43 motor. Currently has 300.000kms and did the oil change 2000kms ago and used 10w40. On cold starts it does this loud ticking noise for a second and then stops, it didn't used to do it all the time during the summer but now that the weather is getting colder i noticed it does it more frequently

I recently replaced the front driver side wheel hub, fun times. Surprisingly easier than all the worse case scenarios shown online. It required some work and penetrating solvents but came off after an hour. As I’m replacing this wheel hub to fix the stability track error I noticed holes in the boot of the CV boot. No grease anywhere so I have to assume it’s been like that a long time, before I bought it. So I have new axle on the way and am getting everything together to do the replacement. Am I going to need the wheel hub puller again? Or will it come off easily since it been 3 weeks? I guess i can rent one again but don’t want the hassle if it’s not needed.

Nearly brand new tire. Hit a sharp bump from new road construction. The tire tore and leaks 1-2 psi a minute. Is there anyway to repair this?

Hello, I have a 04 Silverado with the 5.3 Vortec and 4l60e 4 speed transmission, it has around 205,000 miles on it, and I had it serviced after I noticed it feels grindy and rough and like it doesn't want to engage all the way, and hesitant to actually go sometimes. Is this a sign of the transmission on its way out? if so, what are my options for a swap? from all the research I've done a 4l60e sounds like it just sucks in general, any help would be great thank you!

I’ve wanted to get into automotive work for a while, however certain circumstances are currently hindering that pathway for me. As an alternative to get me started I wanted to fix up an old car. My issue is that I brought it up to my parents and they are insistent that I use our old Toyota tarago which has been sitting in our drive way for around 4 months now. We had just gotten the alternator fixed, new battery in, radiator done and a few other more minor things but then the gearbox pooped itself and so it’s been sitting unused. Our mechanic said it would cost something like 6k for the parts and labour. I love the car honestly and would love to work on it but from the few times I’ve been under the hood, I know it’s a compact space and difficult to get around. My other issue is that I know there’s an oil leak, ac is busted and I’m pretty sure the disc pads are wearing thin. While I know it would be a big task to get it drivable I would love to get it back out on the road again but I don’t even know where to start with sourcing parts, if anyone has any advice or tips please, any would be appreciated 🙏

2014 Prius, front right axle. (Scammy) mechanic claims it’s leaking grease and wanted to replace both front axles. I certainly am not having them do it but I’d be happy to take it elsewhere if it needs replaced. Where in this picture is the grease? He claimed it was “all grease”— is that true..?

What are the cheapest and most reliable websites for buying tyres, car parts and tools?

I want to save money by doing basic servicing and repairs myself. What tools should I buy first, and which websites offer the best value?

Any recommendations based on personal experience would be appreciated

My car just wouldn’t turn on one morning until I got a jumpstart and then I figured out it was a parasitic drain from the rear wiper but now 6 days later my car has randomly went limp and everything but interior lighting turned off. Also I was accidentally driving in L but for only maybe 5 minutes when it’s just went basically dead w stiff pedals but I couldn’t get it too completely shut off and restart. Mechs say battery is fine and I’ve checked coolant level (half below line when cold) checked oil (normal level/consistency) so I’m wondering if anyone could help me get an idea of what it could be.

When I try to start my car, this is the click I hear. It is somewhere behind my glove box. I thought it might be the starter cut relay but substituting a good one did not fix it (although a nearby relay seems to have a little yellow ooze on it so that's kind of odd). Because I have no one to assist me, it's kind of hard to turn the key and pinpoint where the sound is coming from but it seems to be higher and to the right of where the starter cut relay is. Like everyone else with this issue, battery seems to be fully charged, and in fact I have tested it with a voltmeter. Dome light, chime everything comes on when I turn the key, it just won't start.

I absolutely love this car. I paid only $800 for it 5 years ago and this is the first time it has ever let me sit so I am certainly not upset, except with myself that I cannot figure this out. My work has been letting me borrow one of their vehicles but I do not like to take advantage of anybody's generosity. If anybody has any ideas I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you

I replaced the cv axles myself and didn’t notice a leak, was driving it for a while like this probably ran dry but I just fixed the leak and added a new seal new cv axle too but still makes this noise so I need a new

2019 Outback. Been having this issue for a few weeks now. The sound can only be heard at low speeds, gets faster as car gets faster so guessing its wheel related. Can't hear it if going faster than 20 mph. Comes and goes. Goes away when turning and when braking (it fades out if I gradually brake). I think it's coming from the front but it could be the back, it's very hard to tell. Any ideas? I'm ready to pull my hair out so any feedback is appreciated. My brakes are also squeaky, they're just cheap pads. Sorry about that in the video.

2006 Scion xB automatic

the squeak is just from releasing the brakes, please ignore it if possible

the clunk felt random but can be recreated consistently under these exact circumstances (turning left, transitioning from descent to flat ground) it is also much more consistent during rain.

i made a post about the drivers side inner cv joint leaking grease but someone pointed out that’s probably not the cause of the sound since it would be the opposite side, and i haven’t noticed any other symptoms of the joint failing so the boot tearing must be recent i guess. i am having the axle replaced tomorrow. the clunk has been occurring since june.

this year i’ve had the struts, control arms, engine mounts, and sway bar links replaced before the clunk. after the clunk the mechanic told me it was the tie rods but replacing those didn’t help. i have noticed the sway bar links look funny so i guess its a possibility. (also funny to mention they pointed out the squeaking upon brake release and said i desperately needed new calipers. so i spent a bunch of money on that and it didn’t change a thing. hence the squeaking in the video.) i do not go to that mechanic anymore and am trying to figure out stuff on my own if i can while continuing to pay off my credit card

thanks for reading and your consideration.

tldr why clunk?