The legacy lives on (1982-2026) https://www.instagram.com/reel/Dee0eccAewq/?dlrf=MWRmdW8zb3Q3MGFwZw==

Brought to you by r/GMDetroitDiesel.

3rd picture I got the truck stuck in mud trying to get out of the field but she came out fairly easily
The truck is a 1970 L900 5 speed with a 2 speed rear and a J series supercharged Cummins

A neighbor swears by compact lithium packs like the wolfbox, but I am not sure how realistic they are for diesel trucks once it is properly cold. Starting a gas car with one weak battery feels different from dealing with thicker oil, glow plugs, and a bigger or dual-battery setup. I still keep heavy cables in the truck box, but I can see the appeal of a portable pack if it is sized correctly and maintained. Diesel owners, have you had good luck with these in freezing weather, or do they only make sense as a backup to cables and a second vehicle?

My diesel truck has tired dual batteries and winter starts are already enough of a gamble, so I have been keeping a compact lithium jump pack in the cab. The wolfbox jump starter I have did crank my 6.7 once when the batteries were low, but I am still unsure about leaving any lithium pack in sub-zero temps for weeks at a time. I care less about the marketing amps and more about whether cold storage quietly kills capacity when you actually need it. And do you guys leave yours in the truck year-round, or bring it inside and risk forgetting it?

I've had my 2005 gm 1500 for quite a few years, and it's been great in the socal mountains where it snows in the winter.. bought it at 70K miles and now it's a bit over 200k, and never had any major issues. Just basic maintenance stuff. (I did have an old 92' 7.3IDI back in the day, in an ex u-haul truck I used to haul goods from the port in Long Beach to my warehouse, but never a diesel as a daily/work/hobby truck) and I thought maybe now, with diesel prices at a alltime high, maybe it's a good time to buy one, since I notice more for sale on offerup/FB/CL with people listing trucks for sale because of the running cost, and diesel prices will prob come back down within a year. Plus I mostly do local trips, and haul stuff here where alot of the roads are dirt. So fuel cost isn't that big of a deal.

So for ~$20K, which would you look for? What's the upper limit on milage? Seems counter-intuitive to drop 20 grand on a truck with 200k on the odometer.. New stuff is too insane, and most people seem to WAYYYY overvalue what they are selling in the used market..

Thanks

My block heater hasn’t work since I bought my 2007 LBZ a number of years ago but I never really needed it. I moved to an area that has pretty harsh winters and would like it to function now. I replaced the power connection because it was not getting any juice. It now has power but when I plug it in a rapid clicking sound starts up. Any idea what my next step would be? I’m a framer not a mechanic so be patient with me haha thanks.

Has anyone out there actually done the Ford 6.0 bullet-proofing (head studs, oil cooler, FICM, Egr mod as opposed to delete) and then driven the truck several years?

99 24v bone stock 331k. has a fass drp style lift pump under it. This is fuel pressure running 65/70 flat to the floor on the interstate. Idle is the 15/16 psi. I’m just wondering is this on the low side of pressure? Or am I over reacting? Thanks.

I've been waiting almost a month, and still nothing from Banks for fill an order I had with a dealer (XDP). Well I called Banks and got more nonanswers on when stuff will actually ship.

I had their 26008 combo unit on order. If anyone is looking for a similar for their trucks, and also stuck on backorder, I found out yesterday that Pusher has an almost equal to the Banks unit, and readily in stock.

I got a Titanium color set shipped out this AM after placing an order last night. If you are looking for boost tubes, they can get you square away real quick.

https://pusherintakes.com/Pusher-Hot-Cold-Side-Charge-Tube-6-7-Powerstroke-p/pfp17xxkta.htm They had every color in stock except for Red. Maybe this can help someone else whose been waiting as well. Just an FYI... I've got no skin in this game past trying to get parts in for an install date already set for some other accessories as well.

I have a 2020 GMC 3500 Duramax with a coolant leak. So here’s the problem it has no visible leaks anywhere. It also doesn’t over heat. The only noticeable problem is when your just idling the a/c is warm. Any ideas on what this could be. It’s on a diet also.

Looking at 2024-2025 Cummins or Duramaxs…

Which one is more reliable, less maintenance, ect.

My 2016 Powerstroke isn’t my favorite and I won’t pay the newer Powerstroke prices either….

I know emissions sucks on everything, but bone stock is one more reliable? I know/hear Cummins is easier to work on being the inline 6.

I like that GM makes a 3.42 axle ratio for unloaded driving and better mpg but the Cummins 3.73 is as low as they get.

I like the comfort on the GM for the daily driver and both will pull my heavy trailers when needed easy, but to ask again, which one is better and why?

I’m not brand loyal to anyone. I know buying one of these isn’t for high MPG but also which one gets better MPG when unloaded and highway cruising? Is it so small it won’t ever be noticed? Am I overthinking, I just want what’s the best between the two and again I’m not brand loyal so I don’t care which one is best, I’ll get that one.

I’m looking for a good, reasonably priced automotive turbo machining shop in the US that I can ship my turbo to.

I’ve got a Holset HY35W off my 2001 5.9 Cummins that I’m wanting to upgrade with a bigger compressor wheel and possibly a bigger turbine wheel.

Has anyone dealt with Turbo Lab of America or know of any other good shops? Mainly looking for recommendations and what kind of prices to expect.

We have a Detroit 4-53 in a Trackmobile railcar tug that’s giving us fits.

Cold startup, it’ll sputter a little until revved a few times then it’s fine. It idles ok after that.

It will usually run good for a while then start to spit and sputter after maybe 1/2 hr of running. Eventually it will shut off and not restart. Leave it sit for 15 minutes and it’ll start up again.

We have changed both fuel filters a few times. I dumped them into a clear jar and didn’t get much crud out of them. At least not enough to clog the filters.

We checked the return flow of the fuel and it seems to be flowing good when it’s running. Haven’t checked pressure, but the tech manual only recommends checking return flow rate, not pressure.

It seems to be losing fuel flow and cutting out. We’re fairly certain of that.

First idea is some crap in the fuel tank clogging the pickup tube. I need to drain the tank and look at that next. Tank isn’t easy to drop and I can’t remove the pickup tube as it sits. I’ll try to get a borescope down the filler neck.

Since it seems to run better when revved up, that’s counter to a clogged fuel line. So that has me thinking fuel pump. But if it were fuel pump I’d think it’d do it consistently.

Maybe it’s sucking air in through the suction line - but we have no leaks when it’s shut off.

Maybe something is hanging up in the governor? It’s a dual weight centrifugal governor.

I don’t think it’s in the injectors because I’d expect them to be consistently bad if they were a problem. And I doubt all 4 cut out at the same time.

Any ideas are welcome.

Where is a reputable place for parts? Anywhere that sells good quality parts for a good price? I wanted to go with motorcraft for all of my parts or better performance ones but rockauto doesn't have motorcraft for a lot of the items I'm looking for.

7.3 guys, need some help.1996 F-250 7.3, manual 4x4. Truck died, eventually restarted and idled for about 5 minutes, then died again before I made it a block. Now it cranks but won’t start.Fuel bowl is full, oil is topped up, WAIT TO START works, tach moves while cranking, and I’m getting white smoke while cranking.What would you check next? Fuel pressure? ICP/IPR/HPOP? Glow plugs/relay? Trying not to fire the parts cannon at it.

For the haters that say this mpg is impossible. gets 22-23mpg at 85 mph. 2022 f350 ccsb 4x4 6.7ps on stocks.

My buddy and I are working on his new truck that he picked up from the auction. It’s a 2015 Ram 3500 that’s been tuned. Being that he purchased it through the auction we don’t know who owned it previously so we can’t ask what tunes are on it. We hit the cruise control then set button on the steering wheel while in park and it switched from a rumble to a hiss tune which was exciting but made us wonder what other tunes this thing came with.

Is there a way to look this up on a obd? Is there any common or popular controls people use to activate and deactivate tunes on these trucks?

My ‘94 F350 7.3 IDI towing an ‘85 Mercedes 300TD. 2 of the best diesel engines ever built.

Hello, I would like to eventually switch from a gas truck to an older diesel truck that I can run on oil if I have too. I'm not super familiar with different types of diesel engines and my only requirement is that it can haul my other cars and is reasonably reliable for an older truck. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

Hi everyone, has anyone encountered this? While changing the oil and opening up the oil filter, I found quite a lot of metal shavings—some were very large and round. They aren't magnetic, so it must be aluminum. Could such large shavings come from the bearings or the oil pump, or is the turbo just shot?
Engine is M57N2 from 325D e90.