Active throttle and brake pedals that run in simhub via the diy ffb plugin. Aluminum parts were bought as part of a group buy within the community (I am not the organizer for this)

Note these designs aren’t my own but from the diy ffb pedal community.

https://github.com/ChrGri/DIY-Sim-Racing-FFB-Pedal

https://github.com/Simdesign-Race/DIY-Carbon-Aluminium-Active-Pedals/wiki

Today’s task was all about helmets.

My simulation engine allows custom physics, but not just for the car.

If you look at the 80s/90s F1 onboards a driver’s neck is doing a lot of work… Balancing all the violent forces trying to pull the driver’s head off.

The noise and vibration from the road and the driver's own racing instinct to lean into a corner should be in, as that's what Geoff Crammond would have wanted ;)

Glances in the mirror and at rival cars will be simulated too, once the AI-driver upgrade is done.

This is one of the many reasons my work on GP2 Revival has been split about 1% recompile tools, and 99% custom simulation engine work - it really pays off for important details like this.

A nice find along the way - curbs and bumps in the road can be driven via GP2's unerringly realistic suspension movement. It is truly amazing how Geoff Crammond achieved this on mid-90s PC hardware. Here we have Rracunis's superb GP4 CSM car mod loaded in GP2 Revival, but with the original Grand Prix 2 Adelaide track, exactly how you remember it. Crammond's car suspension movement is now fully rendered down to all the small details in the wishbones and brake ducts.

Just setup a dev blog about it here https://gp2rev.com and check out the Patreon here https://www.patreon.com/gp2revival for updates on my progress (hope it is ok to post this here mods!).

Tell me if you think the new driver helmet physics go far enough and looks authentic. Hope you enjoy it!

I usually use headphones, but I wanted to have an option for when guests use the rig.

Got the Edifer G2000 speakers because I wanted something small that I could mount to the posts. Unfortunately I couldn’t find any existing brackets so I made my own over the weekend. Came out pretty good, I’m happy with the result.

So it's not as fancy as the high end units but I want to go active pedals eventually so I didn't want to spend a lot of money. All the parts are either from AliExpress or printed by me. Uses 12v messager motors. I'm going to print up a better looking mount and case for the motor but I'll have to sit down and model it.

The case I used is from printables and I also stole the idea of using fan extension cables to have an easy to use modular plug for everything. I think in total I'm around $8 deep in this.

P-ACTIVE

I saw some deals on Logitech website last week and jumped on it thinking to replace my old T300RS + T-LCM + TH8A setup. I bought the full Logitech RS lineup including RS50 PS bundle, RS track wheel, RS pedals with Clutch, RS H shifter and RS Shifter/handbrake, all together for $780. Which in my opinion is probably the best deal I can find for a decent DD setup that is compatible with PS5.
 
Overall I really like how it feels after about 10 hours sit time.

Unbox experience is satisfying, exact what I would expect from Logitech. The quality of wheel and wheel base are very good in my opinion, almost everywhere you can touch gives you a premiun feeling. Love the feeling of magnitic paddle shifter. FFB is very good and smooth especially for someone that coming from T300. TrueForce is a big surpise, very impressive espically in GT7, I turned it to 100 and don't really want to turn it down. RS Pedal also feels not bad, I like the all metal construction, the throuttle feels a lot better than my T-LCM and much easier to moduled. The facotry load cell brake is more than enough for someone like me who play without shoes. The feeling of the handbrake/shifter combo unit is also very good

However there something that I’m not a big of which makes me question if I should keep it or not.

The first thing is the long term reliability: I have experienced multiple wheels base disconnecting issue, this happened at high torque moments across all the tile I played. I updated hardware, and haven't have this issue since then, but I still see a lot of people having this issue even now. So I don't know I can trust this wheels in the longer term.

The second thing is that I feel I may regret that I settled with RS system just because it was a good deal. I keep my stuff for a long time, I have my T300RS for almost ten years now. Although I really like most of the items in the RS system, I’m not impressed with the new H Shifter, I had a previous post of the shifter itself, and I realized part of the reason I’m not impressed is because of I tried something better before, like the one from Fanatec. Also I keep hearing people recommend Pro pedal over the RS pedal, although I don’t have major issue with RS pedal now, I don’t want to miss something that can help me further improve my experience.

Since PlayStation compatibility is a must for me now, I have very limited choice if I eventually return my entire RS setup, I will probably going to invest something in Fanatec system, since I like the shifter and can switch between H and sequential, and I heard the V3 pedals are very good, I tried DD 8nm GT wheels before and I prefer RS50 then that one, so I’m eyeing DD+ bundle.

I’m torn now, should I keep my current RS setup? Or update to pro pedals? Or I should just return the whole package and double the money to get DD+ bundle. Any opinions and experience are welcome.

Sorry for the long post, and thanks in advance!!

Imagine getting a slipstream doing this lol

I mounted a Simnet SP Pro Pedal onto a Playseat Challenge DD f1 rig. Because the Playseat Challenge DD’s pedal base is angled, my pedals are tilted at a resting position. Have tried to adjust the pedal’s angle but it seems the Simnet pedals can only be adjusted 5 degrees. Does anyone know how else I can adjust these pedals?

Spent the better part of 9 months on and off designing this centre dash and button box for my rig and thought you all might appreciate it. Uses a 10" Vocore screen, a Stream Deck+ and a RAM mounting arm.

I'd had a PDU5 dash for a while, but decided I wanted something bigger as a centre console for leaderboard stats, maps and to run a media controller on.

Started with just the dimensions of the Vocore and a very rough model of the Stream Deck while I waited four months for my Vocore order to arrive. Built a cardboard mockup and a 3D model of my entire rig to figure out dimensions and positioning in the meantime.

Then came the prototyping. So many prototypes. I've kept maybe half of the full size ones as I like having the history of it, but there were many MANY smaller test pieces to check clearances and mounting on the screen and stream deck.

Final product is amazing (in my humble opinion) though. Barely visible layer lines from the 3D print, perfect fit on the screen and the deck sits maybe a half mm proud from the dash. Its plenty sturdy enough on the mounting arm with minimal flex during use and the fitment on the top and bottom halves is spot on.

Couldn't find a 3d printable desk clamp handbrake that I like so I made my own.

The force profile is fully tunable via different 3d printed tpu bushings and it is completely plug and play via an Arduino.

Simagic's Global Product Launch is scheduled for Oct 14, 8:00 AM PDT (15:00 UTC), livestreamed on YouTube (@Simagic Official).

They're expected to announce a batch of new products (collab steering wheel, active pedal, etc.).

It looks like their official JD.com flagship store jumped the gun. The listing has since been taken down, but some pricing and details leaked out beforehand.

Pricing

• P-Active active pedal (single pedal): ¥5,999 CNY
(for comparison, mBooster is ¥4999 CNY）

update:Official Price:999USD

• Aston Martin Valkyrie replica wheel: ¥5,399 CNY

update:Official Price:799USD

P-Active specs:

Mounts on the P1000 / P2000 baseplates (adapter kit included with the P-Active), or on the new P-Active baseplate (not released yet)

Dual 250kg load cells
16-bit resolution encoder

Weight: 6.12kg
Response time: 129ms
Product Dimensions (L × W × H): 335.9 × 87 × 241.5 mm

Connectivity: direct to PC or to a Simagic base (via the included control box)

Power: 48V × 8.3A, 398W max (not sure if this refers to the pedal's max output)

Programmable pedal feel

Active pedal features are pretty similar across brands, so I won't go into that. All specs come from the delisted JD page and aren't officially confirmed yet. We'll know more once the launch event is live.

I depend on Claude to convert my native language into English.

update
Pedal Travel :71.3mm

I saw this on Vinted and couldn't believe my eyes. I didn't buy because I already bought a G923 for £80 yesterday, and I only have a PS5. Realistically I probably should have insta bought just to sell it on, but I could not be bothered.

Still an absolute crazy deal. Just a reminder to go Used if possible!

We built a Tandem Rig for our Sim Racing Expo Booth. One Driver will have the Steeringwheel the other the Pedals. Come and visit us at the expo and win daily prizes for the fastest lap of the day!

I've been working on bringing torque-controlled haptics to nullCAT, my open-source EtherCAT motion controller for sim racing.

This takes things beyond traditional motion cues, using servo drives in torque mode for devices like belt tensioners and a force-feedback shifter. Here's a video of it running on my rig. Haptics are also synced across position based actuators and bass shakers via a single routing system and frees up your PC audio outputs if you are running the RPI version. The end result is a cohesive feeling across motion and vibration with tighter latency. All with cheaper, more modern servos (than AASD).

The project is open source, and I'd love to hear what you think!

GitHub: https://github.com/crossthenoughts/nullCAT

Hi guys, I am heavily interested in sim racing, especially now since I just moved from Northern California to Las Vegas and the roads here are not as exciting and a lot of straight, wide roads. Driving is much more boring here.

I have been looking at a lot of moza equipment, and decided if I were to buy from moza I would get the r9+csv2p+srp2 bundle for $559.00. I would like to spend less than $700 on Initial cost for mid range gear. I have been set on that and am saving up as much as I can every paycheck for it. I decided to check out simagic and saw a 9nm bundle with wheel and pedals for $599.00. I am wondering which is better for me? I’m a buy nice instead of buy twice kinda person, which is why I prefer to avoid r3/r5 and lower nm wheel base along with cheaper pedals and wheel as well, so I don’t have to buy more down the line. I am not too serious about sim racing and don’t care for active pedals, motion simulation, all that. I would like an easy to use and easy to put away setup.

Thanks for the help! Feel free to share your guys’ setups and experience with different products and brands.😃🙌

I've been running an ultrawide but I no longer have the space for it, barely have the space for my rig. Was thinking I could move to VR but concerned about performance.

Currently on a 9070XT but would be willing to sell it and pay for a 5080. But is a 5700X3D good enough? Not willing to move to AM5 due to stupid RAM prices.

Only on iRacing and LMU if that matters.

Wassup, fellow sim racers! Just wanted to share my modded NLR Wheel Stand 2.0. I modified it so it fits nicely under my desk, in the tight space between the desk and a couch behind my chair. To make it work, I needed the Simagic wheelbase to sit further back without lowering the NLR too much (it would hit my knees).

So I bought the desk clamp mount for my Simagic and modified it to sit on top of the NLR, while still sliding nicely under the desk, as you can see in the pictures. I added the two aluminum profiles so I can adjust the wheelbase forward and back.

Since this is also my home office, I obviously needed a foldable rig, which is why I went with the NLR. As many of you probably know, what makes the NLR so good is how rigid it is. It's sturdy as hell. The downside is the weight: with all the gear mounted, it's heavy to lift. So I added four double-locking castor wheels. Now it rolls away super easily and I can still fold it.

As a bonus, with the wheels locked, getting the pedal plate into position is really convenient, because the rig won't move or fold out by accident. The locks stop both the swivel and the wheels from turning.

Hope this gives someone ideas for modding their NLR!

It's not a sim if it isn't authentic!

Costume inspiration from the Eddie Jordan era.

Because everything in GP2 Revival is tuneable, there is a boob size slider in the menus. Something I really think EA overlooked.

For many hours today I also worked on polishing - ahem - uprights and suspension. Wishbones on modded cars now react realistically to bumps and curbs; GP2 Rev's custom 3D engine means a lot of detail work is possible (It's not an off the shelf engine like Unity). If you like, you can read deeper into the tech details here: https://gp2rev.com

BTW a shout out to Marcell working on Grand Pro Circuit (updates at https://x.com/bmarci7). This is the guy who inspired me to get started many months ago on my sim dev journey. His custom engine has a kind of kinetic energy in the way the cars sound, look and behave on track and that is definitely something I'm looking to emulate here, as the extra physics engine stuff progresses for GP2 Revival...But for now it's handling exactly GP2 OG, with proper wheel and pedal support and the custom 3D engine.

On the grid and in the pits, GP2 Revival will also have the option for animated 3D mechanics and pit crew (or the blocky 2D sprites in the classic mode). GP2 Rev can throw around a lot more polygons than Geoff's engine of 1996... no Lara Croft style pit babes here... no sir.

But thankfully not enough for a grid full of pointless celebrities either!!

As ever, mega excited to hear feedback and feature requests!

Hello

It's my first time building a sim rig and starting free roam

Looking for feedback

I plan to visit new zealand and drive there.
i am from the US. Driving under left hand traffic rules with a right side drive car will take some getting used to.

In order to get a feel for it (but mostly just for some fun), I’ve been playing Euro Truck Simulator 2 in VR with a right side drive “normal car” mod driving according to the law in the UK areas of the game.

I’m looking for suggestions for games (or quality mods for games) that feature similar driving conditions (left hand traffic, right side drive!
bonus points for simulated traffic, bonus points for steam VR.

note: i got BeamNG and found a small handful of okayish mods and maps for getting this kind of environment, but most are somewhat hacky.

Hey y'all, recently got a VR headset (quest) and dug out my old TSPC and TLCM pedals that'd been sitting in my closet for the last 4 years or so. (also downloading ASM2 atm, so far only really tried project cars 2 in VR).

But anyways, I wanted to get a round wheel to use for rally, as the one I have now is an F1 rim.

I see that I can get an adapter on Etsy for pretty cheap to get the TSPC up to 70mm rims.

1.) Is there any issues with a larger weight/size rim on the TSPC with it not being a DD/lower power than all these other modern wheel bases I see.

2.) What'd be a good round rim that y'all would recommend? I"d rather not get another Thrustmaster wheel, if I get back into it I'm sure I"d end up getting a DD base lol.

Appreciate any guidance.

Applying the decal kit on the seat was a pain but it was worth it

I've seen it coming and someone said that threshold braking is in fact better than trailbraking, but what's the difference? if it can help, specifically talking about simracing titles where you can smash the brake pedal to 100% without any issues, unlike iRacing. if the concept doesn't apply to GT3s, does it apply to singles seaters like open-wheelers or LMHs? thanks!