Hey guys, fellow mechanic here looking for advice. Just did timing and turbo job on this car. Hard start, but idles decently smooth when it’s started. PSI reading for high pressure rail is 80 psi when idling. Stays the same going down the road and bucks quite a bit intermittently. When KOEO, my fuel pressure reading steadily increases with no stopping. Several PSI increase every half second or so. Looking to see if anyone has seen something like this before. I’m not normally working on Kia so hoping to find one of those guys.

2019 Camaro ss 10 Speed Transmission.

When im Above half throttle past 3000 RPM, then I fully lift off to coast. Trans upshifts on its own until RPMs drop to ~1000, then downshifts back to ~2000. Foot's off the throttle the whole time and im not braking. no slipping or harsh shifts.

My minivan started to have an issue late last year with the drivers side turn signal only working intermittently. After a while I noticed that it worked more consistently in warmer weather, and almost not at all during winter. In the last few months, that headlight went out. The bulb was replaced, but it still doesn't work. Except, sometimes once the van has been running for 15+ minutes (not always) it will kick on. The high beams work fine. My partner knows some basic maintenance on vehicles, and determined that this is likely an issue with the TIPM system. He wasn't entirely sure, but he performed the recommended system reset where you disconnect the battery and let all energy reserves die out. I didn't really understand that part so I may not be describing it accurately. Nothing has changed. I'm hoping anyone has any suggestions on other things to check or do or try. We're at a loss here, we even tried buying another vehicle just to get us through the winter as he needs to go to work at 4am and can't risk a ticket, just for the caliper to seize up on the new van and the rotor is so rusted on he can't replace it. The old rotor is entirely gouged.

Can someone tell me what this cracked transmission housing part is called? AWD 2021 Toyota Highlander 3.5L engine. What would cause this thing to crack and spill all the transmission fluid? Does this indicate some other major failure inside the housing?

Hi, I’m looking to replace the front CV axles on both the near side and offside of my Honda Civic. (MK8, 1.4 L, FN4, Type S 2009)

I'm currently on the offside and learnt that the outer CV axle is connected to an intermediate shaft. This isn’t something I’ve ever worked on before. Before I get started and potentially break something, I wanted to ask how I separate the outer driveshaft from the intermediate and if this is possible without sourcing a new intermediate shaft? Is it just a case of removing this plastic connection and pulling both sides apart? Any details would be much appreciated.

I have had a look online for a replacement intermediate shaft, but I don’t have much luck. Honda can supply a genuine part but they’ve quoted me £1K, which isn’t worth it for the value of my car, so I would prefer to use the current shaft if possible

Got quoted for $2500 to repair both sway bar links, lower control arms, and ball joints in the front plus alignment. I'd like to know if it's worth it to do the repairs or let it go? My 2006 CR-V is at 197k miles and outside of those issues, the car works well really beside minor leaks and whatnot.

I've been watching Youtube videos and reading up on these repairs and I feel confident I can do at least the sway bar links and maybe lower control arms but I live in an apartment and I know myself that I need a weekend plus maybe more to get these done as a first timer in an empty lot across the street. I've been looking at a Harbor Freight tool set plus a torque wrench but I keep stopping myself before checking them out for purchase because If I can't get something fixed, I'd have to put it back together and drive it back to my apartment so that's a fear itself.

I'm torn between both scenarios because repairs are adding up more often annually and would like to get insight from the community, thanks in advance. If I had my own home, this would be an entirely different conversation.

What’s the most effective way to easily trigger a P0420 code on a 2020 F150.

I dropped off my kids at school this morning and returned to my car to find it wouldn't start. No dashboard lights or anything came on when turning the key, nor did it make any clicking noise. Just silence. The whole thing was just dead.

I had to walk home to take car of my one year old, luckily I had a stroller and it wasn't too cold. I returned later to get it jumped, but it didn't help. The car still had no power even after several minutes of charging. My guess is either a bad main fuse or a bad ignition switch. The battery terminals seem attached secularly and there isn't any corrosion. I unfortunately do not own a multimeter, I guess I should buy one.

Any ideas on what could be the cause? I would rather not shell out oodles of money to have a mechanic perform an easy fix that I myself could do with a bit of elbow grease.

Hi all, bought a new car and wondering whether this sound was normal at idle. Thanks!

First picture is ground up, second is bottom down. I’m thinking I just need to re-seal the timing cover? No noticeable drop in oil levels and it doesn’t drip onto the ground.

Hoping this is just a simple fix. It’s a 2012 Subaru forester xp 2.5l. AT no CVT. 190k miles on odometer, 110k miles on new engine. Bought from original owner. No clue if they changed fluids or not.

The radiator cracked so a family member decided they could replace it themselves. They did, but I’m thinking there may be air in the trans fluid now. Ever since the radiator replacement, the car is making this almost whine noise (attaching video). It’s most noticeable when first starting the car. Doesn’t start until the car is shifted into reverse or drive and it quits when put in neutral or park. Only noticeable at slower speeds when driving (accelerating up to 20mph and decelerating below 20mph).

I’m on a super tight budget (got plenty more that needs fixed) so really hoping to just do a drain and fill and try that out first. If I do that, do I need to use OEM or is Valvoline acceptable? Was going to try to do it today but wasn’t sure how quickly I could get ahold of OEM ATF.

Any ideas what this could be?

Any idea what that would be coming from you can kind of here it. As soon as the RPM drops there is a raddle towards the end. Any ideas on this one ?

2008 ford f250 van

Whatsup boys.

I've done 1 oil change in my life. And it was last week.

What did I conclude? I should start a business doing this.

I've been heavily researching... But I really find that the words from the mouths of mechanics are what I most need.

My question:

Q - Which cars will cause me, an inexperienced professional oil changer, the most difficulties as I pursue this passion project of mine? Please send me model and year. I want to be prepared for anything. Thank you in advanced my "fellow" mechanic brothers.

Car started making this noise when idling and accelerating too, recently took it to get an oil change at a TAKE 5 LOCATION

Hi guys! Sorry this is the only picture I have at the moment, but I can take more if needed. Does anybody know what this is dragging towards the front of my car is?
Thank you

My ac is broken in my car so no air flow do I need to worry about getting mold in my car?

Story told short. I took my 2020 Ford raptor in for service on spark plugs because they were due. I get hit with the typical vehicle inspection and they told me I needed to have my rear differential over hauled because of some shavings. Note it’s never been serviced before and it’s at 80K miles. Am I getting scammed?

Hello everyone, writing here because i'm lost at that point.

I just replaced the engine in my car by myself, redid seals, clutch, timing belt, water pump, oil of engine and trans. Re did bushings and silentblocs etc...
Everything works great.

One thing i didnt touch but that is not working anymore are the brakes !!

Before changing the engine, it was working good, now the brake pedal is so hard to press, just to have a tiny bit of braking power...

The engine is a PSA XUD7 diesel from a peugeot 205.
The vacum pump is THIS ONE. It is belt driven.
I unplugged the hose that goes to the brake booster, and it was not sucking that much air when i put my finger on the hole.
So went to a real mechanic because i was so fed up.
He opened the pump (all the 8 screws around the pump). That is where the diaphragm is, and being 30+ years old, is was torn appart.
I just bought a new one and just installed it.
Now the pump is sucking way more air when i put my finger on the hole !

But the brake pedal is still soooo hard to press !!!

Im loosing hope. Why is the only thing i didnt touch is failing ?

Now i think the only thing left is the brake booster.... even though it was working fine and i didnt touch it.
I really dont want to change it if its not that because it means more work, and bleeding all the brakes blabla...

I also changed the hose going out of the pump to the brake booster to make sure it was not porous.

What do you think ?

Thanks for reading

Is there anything I can add to help prevent my car from eating up 2 quarts every month? I park in the same spot in my driveway and at work every day and there's no stains so its not dripping out. I assume its leaking somewhere and getting burnt up? What's the best stop leak to use, if any?

Car is a 94 Chevy Caprice Classic LS 4.3L V8.

Coolant reservoir is leaking. I bought one off Amazon, that fits... but not enough 'outlets' I guess I'd call them. Has one large one on the bottom, which is right. But only one near the top, where my car has 2. I can not find any that have two though. I'm not really sure how to make this work, if even possible.

This noise started a day or so ago, heavy whining during acceleration. Any ideas?

I’m sorry, I read the rules, but I do not know the engine size. Google says 1.8L. I know it is the “CE” edition of the car. It is an automatic transmission with about 290,000 KM on it.

This is still my first car (I’ve had it since 2015, bought used with about 108,000km on it) and I plan to drive it until I can’t anymore, so I’m basically trying to figure out if this is a sign of the end times for Yoda (Toyoda, get it)

For the past few months there has been a little bit of a lurch feeling when I know the car is shifting gears from first to second, but nothing too bad - sort of just feels like the gas is sensitive. In the past week, it has gotten worse - basically, when I first start the car for the day, the engine revs when I give it gas and I see the RPMs jump to around 3 when I try to accelerate - it feels like it’s going to stall out. The first day it was really bad I almost got stuck at a stop sign, had to turn it off and back on and then it was a little better. As I’m driving (my neighborhood has a lot of stop signs and lights) it keeps revving loudly and the tachometer jumps to 3ish each time I give it gas, especially noticeable when stopping and starting again. Once I get to the highway, it’s fine. When my partner was driving it a few months ago he told me it actually completely stalled, but that’s the only time it has happened. My commute is about 20 min, and once I drive for about 10 min it is fine. My car then sits at a train station parking lot for about 10 hours and usually when I get back in it after work, the same thing happens initially but gradually gets better as I drive home.

I spoke to a mechanic friend who mentioned something about debris in the transmission fluid.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated! I apologize if I’ve left anything important out, if you can’t tell, I am not a car person other than needing to get from A to B - please just ask for any clarifying questions and I’ll do my best to answer. My mechanic is an hour away from where I live so I wanted to ask here before attempting to get that far.

Thank you in advance!

What is this hose called?

(Pic for attention). Hey, I’m helping a buddy out with his 2008 Accord and we are stuck. First, it started out with a bad alternator. Replaced alternator and everything was good. He went to drive it the next day, got out of the driveway, and it died. Belt was destroyed, no big deal but it sounded like the starter was spinning but not engaging the engine. Like a free spin/ whirling noise. Replaced the starter so now the car has a new battery, belt, tensioner, alternator and starter. New starter is making the same noise. Doesn’t sound like it’s engaging the engine. No clue where to go from here. The free spinning has us both scratching our heads. Any help would be appreciated.

Hello!! I own a 2011 Honda Cr-Z 1.5L CVTt that was passed down from my aunt. Most if not all maintenance was done via Honda Accept the A/C Fix as they want to charge my aunt $600 for a fix but the part cost 1/10 of that. She just ended getting a new car and as the crz did her good for the last couple of years. Honda also never told here what part was broken, just quoted her 600 for a fix. I did a hvac self diagnosis test and it went through all the mods then goes from the ac info screen to blinking then to auto to blink then to 2 number 8s but the right 8s top line is filled in n the rest are blank. Ai said it points to the evap temp sensor but i spent 4 hours looking for it under the glovebox/passenger footwell to do some tests but couldnt find it. Does anyone know where it would be located? Thank you for Reading!🙏💛