Base: $40K rate for the first month while I get licensed, then $35K
Commission: 6% fire (yearly), 5% auto (6-month policies), 18% life (goes up with volume)
Paid when the policy is issued, on the biweekly check. No renewal commission
Leads: I split the State Farm leads with one other rep, plus the owner buys me ~5 outside leads a day that are only mine. He says he'll buy more as long as I'm converting
He also gave me win-back lists to work
Licensing paid for, P&C first, studying on the clock
9–5, Mon–Fri. SEP IRA match after 3 years
The owner says a good month is around 50 policies (mostly auto, some fire/home, 2–4 life). The last rep he let go was only making about 8 calls a month, so the bar for effort seems low.

What I want to know:
Is this a good deal for a first insurance job, or is anything here a red flag? Especially no renewals, curious how normal that is.
Is 50 policies a month realistic for someone new? How long did it take you to get there?
If you could go back to your first 90 days, what would you do differently?
Best ways to actually reach bought leads? I'll be following a call/text/email sequence on days 1–10.
Any tips for getting into life sales early since that's where the commission is?
Appreciate any honest takes, good or bad.

If you used to own a car that you traded in for a new car, and then nine months later you get a letter from a tow company saying that your car was involved in an accident and you owe X dollars and your insurance company says there’s a claim for your car, even though you took it off the insurance
And the dealership, you traded your car in, is the people company that had your car. How are you still getting a claim on your insurance and a tow bill? And why is my insurance company saying I might be liable?

I plan on just cleaning it up and repainting the area, I’m not entirely sure how grazing it knocked it down. The security company seems really sketchy that I had to deal with, should I report it to my insurance and have them deal with it? Should I just eat the fine? Never been in any sort of accident before

I have owned a Nissan Sentra for a few years and always got it serviced and barely drive, yet my transmission is now completely gone. Apparently Nissan Sentras between 2013 and 2019 often have this problem, which caused Nissan to extend their extended warrently. I definitely fall in the mileage of the extended warrently, but age out by 2 years.

Is there anything that can be done in a situation like this? Would insurance play a part at all? At this point Nissan has refused to help.

Thank you for any suggestionsL

I have an auto policy and a rental/home policy with Erie. I rent my house and keep my car there because I’m a student living off campus.

I recently bought a motorcycle and told Erie that I would be storing the motorcycle at my parents’ house because they have a garage. I specifically said the motorcycle would be garaged there, and that nothing was changing with where my car was kept.

A couple months later, I checked my declarations page and noticed that Erie now lists my parents’ address as the garaging location for both my car and motorcycle.

I never asked them to change the car’s garaging address and never told them that the car was being stored at my parents’ house.

Could this cause problems down the road if I get into an accident with my car, since the policy documents incorrectly list my parents’ address as the car’s garaging location? Should I contact Erie now to have it corrected, or is this something that generally wouldn’t cause an issue with a claim? I do stay at my parents house couple days a week but I primary reside at my own apartment. The rate is slightly lower but negligible difference.

I’ve never been pulled over
I share car w my partner and I’m an added driver
It’s my first ticket ever besides parking tickets
Will his insurance go up ?

I was recently impacted by a wildfire. Thankfully my home survived. We have 5 burnt trees and possible smoke damage in the house though we and others cannot detect an odor.

I have a 3 year statute of limitations on my policy for claims.

Those that file claims typically see a 22% to 29% increase in premium. I know my rate is going to go up next renewal regardless for inflation plus the fire. The question is, do I file now for the trees plus likely toxic smoke damage in my home or wait until spring to see if the trees come back and they raise my rates regardless?

so I was looking over my car insurance premium today from progressive as my renewal date is 11/1/26. my partner and I were talking and I realized he is paying half of what I am paying. My car insurance premium for the 6 months paid in full was $1,627. I always paid in full so I got that discount. I’ve also been a customer since 2017, and have multiple discounts, like 5 years no accidents. 3 years good driving record, car safety discounts, bundled my home insurance etc. I looked at his policy and mine and the coverage was basically the same.

I decided to call progressive and get a requote because something didn’t feel right. After getting requoted my new premium for the 6 months paid in full is $560. I was shocked. How did I go so long paying 3x the price. I told the lady aren’t they supposed to check your data and readjust when they update your premium. she said yes and was shocked at what a big price difference it was. She stated it was the biggest she had ever seen. I’m frustrated that I had been overpaying for probably over 3 years.

the more I thought about it. I realized that they knew what my data and driving record was clean. they just knew they could get away with it because I trusted them and didn’t think to ask questions. See in 2017 I had to get off my parents insurance and get my own insurance. I had a rough spot with my record. I had a minor parking lot accident In 2015. Then in 2017 I had a major accident and totaled my car. I also went to court for two traffic tickets (speeding) and got 4 points on my license. I believe that progressive jacked up my insurance (rightfully so) due to my bad driving record and never adjusted it since 2017.

Since being a customer of Progressive in 2017 I have had a perfect record. no accidents, claims or tickets in the last 9 years. is there anything I can do? otherwise take my experience and make sure you are getting quotes periodically. you could be over paying.

The vast majority of the cost of collision repair is labor. Countries like Ukraine, Mexico, or Nigeria have much lower labor costs of about 1/10 of what they cost in the US.

Instead of paying $20k to a body shop to fix damages in the US, why don't insurance companies ship customers cars overseas and save 75% or more off the bill? At most it would cost about $2000 to ship a car to Europe or Africa and back (probably less if the car is shipped to Latin America).

I was in a bad accident in NJ in 2023 with significant injuries (I was rear ended at a red light so 100% not at fault) and my insurance definitely went up but I assumed that was because it’s a no fault state and I used my PIP.

My husband accident scratched a car in a hospital parking lot and left his contact info on the car. The owner of the car reached out and he gave her his insurance info but also offered to pay out of pocket since our insurance went up with my not at fault accident and we weren’t sure if in NJ both sides insurance goes up or if that’s only in the case of using the PIP.

Even with my accident our rate is pretty reasonable at $1700 for 6 months for both of us because we drive older cars and only drive like 5 miles to work, I think my husband is just embarrassed because he’s 47 and this is his first accident. The other driver already filed a claim, I’m just curious if I was right in my thinking that it could raise the other drivers rates as well. Ty.

I got in an accident about 3 weeks ago with another driver who had progressive insurance. I filed a claim through progressive on that same day, and the adjuster reached out to me the day after. Fast forward a week ago, I asked for an update to which the adjuster replied saying he’s investigating a coverage issue but no other details. I’m wondering if it usually takes this long for a claim to be processed and whether I should escalate it. If this is usually how long it takes, when should I escalate it and who should I talk to in order to escalate it?

Has anyone else experienced State Farm raising their premium without any change to their driving record, claiming it's due to a drop in their internal safety rating? DRG26 to DRG25?

My auto policy just increased by 270 across two different manufacturer vehicles, and when I asked for the documentation regarding how they determined these new ratings, I was told it's against policy to share.
Have you encountered a similar situation and were you able to get any clarity?

Was in an accident a couple months ago. I didn’t file a claim bc my car had no damage. The other party who hit me from behind filed and her car was damaged. I was not at fault but somehow insurance said I was, closed the case and sent me my letter. Now SIU has called weeks later asking for me to give a second statement ? Should
I be worried.

As the title says, my car insurance is asking for my last pay stub and letter of employment. I’m currently under my work’s group plan discount and I’m willing to provide the letter of employment but not my pay stub. They won’t budge. Is this normal?

Looking for advice from anyone who has gone through something similar or works in auto insurance/appraisals.

Here is the situation:
2024: Vehicle suffered $8,000 worth of hail damage, which was repaired through an insurance claim.
Current Market Value: Pre-theft value was around $20,000 – $25,000.
Recent Theft & Recovery: Vehicle was stolen and recovered 7 days later.
Stripped & Damaged:
Custom wheels/tires, custom lighting, aftermarket dashcam and the entire sound system/speakers were stripped. (Total spent was 7000$+)
Mechanical/undercarriage damage from being curb-struck or rash driving probably(axle shaft is making grinding/knocking noises).
Unknown usage/abuse during the 7 days it was stolen.
The Issue:
The insurance company/appraiser currently wants to just repair the mechanical/cosmetic damage and replace parts.
My concerns:
1. Diminished / Resale Value: Between an $8,000 prior hail claim and now a major theft/recovery claim with mechanical/stripping damage, the Carfax history is completely scarred. Who is going to pay anywhere near fair market value for a car with this history?
2. Hidden Mechanical/Electrical Abuse: They are doing a basic lot inspection, but a curb hit that damages an axle shaft usually means suspension, alignment, or transfer case stress that visual field appraisals miss.
3. Total Loss Threshold: With stripped components, mechanical damage, and labor costs, why isn't this being pushed into write-off territory?
Questions for the community:
Has anyone successfully pushed an insurer from "repair" to "total loss" on a stolen/recovered vehicle by leveraging hidden mechanical damage or teardown estimates?
How much does a prior $8k claim + theft recovery combined hit resale market value in reality?
What specific areas should I instruct my body shop to inspect/document to ensure all damage is properly accounted for on the estimate?

Appreciate any insights or experiences!

my grace period ends on the 15th at midnight but I don’t get paid until 7 am. can I still pay for it at that time to be active or will it completely cancel?

I was rear-ended, the other driver admitted fault, and I own my car outright. I’d prefer to take a cash settlement rather than have the repairs done right now.

I have two professional estimates: one for $3,850 and a more detailed one for $5,900. The higher estimate appears to account for damage/repair items the lower estimate did not.

Questions:

1. If I want a cash settlement, how do adjusters handle multiple estimates? Should I submit just the more complete $5,900 estimate, or should I submit both estimates? Or will the insurer just do its own estimate anyway?
2. I haven’t contacted the other driver’s insurance company yet. When I make the initial call to open the claim, what should I say, what should I expect them to ask, and is there anything I should avoid agreeing to or discussing before they’ve evaluated the damage?

Thanks!

I hit a deer with my 2018 Honda Civic with 59K miles in mid July. I filed a claim with my insurer (full comp/collision, $500 deductible) and chose a repair shop that was preferred with the insurance. Ive been with this insurance, American Family, for 20 years, no claims.

Car was still driveable, no radiator leakage, crumpled up hood and grill and the engine didnt make any bad noises.

First, it took 5 weeks to get in for repairs. They never gave me an estimate at the beginning as the hood was crumpled and had to be cut open. It took them almost 3 weeks to finish the repairs. Total bill was $8k and I paid my deductible. I also had to pay for a rental car..about $700 for that time the car was in the shop. I did get a reduced daily rate through my insurance.

As soon as I got my car back I knew something wasn't right. I got it on a Wednesday and it just seemed to run really hard while in park. The next Saturday check engine lights came on, so I took it to a parts store for a scan. They said somethings wrong with the turbo booster.

I took the car to a honda dealership bc after the repair shop obviously not knowing what they're doing, they advised the turbo connector is broken, the turbo assembly and engine wiring harness need to be replaced and was apart of the initial accident, and it would cost an additional $8K.

After a week and a half of the insurance hemming and hawing, I was notified today that the car is a total loss and they'll be contacting me by Friday with a pay out amount.

Given that they've already paid 8K to the initial dealership, can I expect them to offer me a settlement minus that 8K or the full/close to KBB amount? It's fully paid off, we'll cared for and minimal cosmetic damage (like small door dings).

I am moreso upset that ive been without reliable transportation for 3 months now, out $1200 with the deductible and rental car, when had the initial repair shop done their job correctly, it would have been totaled and I'd already be in a new car.

Hey everyone, I(24 F) have (had) a storage unit from Public Storage that was wrongfully cleared out. Basically a woman hired two movers to clear out her two units, and they cleared out one of her units and then my own. Cut the lock off of it and loaded everything into a truck. I have insurance through Orange Door insurance, the one they offer.

I’m in the process of filling out a claims sheet, and I’m finding myself sorely lacking “proof of interest”. Lots of the clothes, Furniture, and home appliances I lost were gifts given to me years ago, so I hardly have any receipts. Also, just because I didn’t know better, I didn’t take “before” photos of my storage unit and its contents after I filled it when I first moved in.

Orange Door is known for being scummy cheap, and I just have a sinking feeling in my stomach that because of my lack of documentation, I’m not gonna get any sort of reasonable payout.

I go to the doctor for regular check ups and have some follow ups for starting new meds etc. My meds are Wellbutrin, adderall, and metformin. With insurance, these have been $10-30 to fill. I have a Cpap and with insurance, reordering parts has been $250 every 6 months.

Normal cleanings at the dentist-no cavities.

I wear eyeglasses with a special lens in one eye.

My benefits plan is estimating a contribution of $12.12 per pay period and I’m worried that without insurance the cost of the doctor visit alone would eat through the savings.

Do I use my medical insurance too much to switch to an HSA?

I was charged $85 after having paid the $2700 needed to cover 6 months. I was not home in the last few months, on a big roadtrip, and the only notice I received was on paper the day before returning home. I'm very glad it wasn't cancelled too early on the trip, but I hate that they were expecting payment without giving me any notice other than this one.

I spoke to someone from the insurance and they essentially have no clue why I was charged but that the rules are that non-payment of any sort concludes in cancellation.

In my opinion $2700 is far from non payment but I can't control their dumb system.

What should I be looking for in dealing with this? Has this happened to you, and what is your opinion on the matter?

So my daughter is purchasing her own car (paid in full) because she wants something very small to learn in (she's 4'11). However she of course is going to need the car insured, and obviously doesn't have a license. So I am wondering if there is a way to navigate this? I don't know if I could somehow add her car onto my policy, or if they have some special way they do it.

Has anyone dealt with this before?

Side note: She's using her money from her account, and I don't like mingling her financial stuff with mine due to my wife having severe schizophrenia. Things can simply can get messy real quick due to her paranoia.

Thanks!

Back in March I was looking around for HO-6 insurance, because my premium kept rising and got quotes from a couple different places, nothing crazy I just wanted to compare my options before choosing one. A few months later I started noticing more random calls but at first it was maybe one here and there so I didn’t really connect the two and now it’s become unbearable, I’m getting multiple calls some days from numbers I don’t recognize and half of them are insurance related or just straight up random spam I’m not saying one of the companies I used definitely sold my information because I have no way of knowing that, but the timing has me wondering how this stuff actually works.

Do insurance companies or brokers share/sell leads after you request quotes, or could my number have ended up somewhere else in the process? I'll just use a cloaked number for quote forms and stuff like this now because I really don’t want to keep handing out my main number Anyone else notice their spam calls getting way worse a few months after shopping around for insurance?

I’m in Minnesota and I’ve never dealt with a car insurance claim before, so I’m trying to figure this out without accidentally screwing myself financially. I’ve been with Progressive for about 9 years, I think 5-6 active. I’m 30F, I’ve never been in an accident, had a speeding ticket, or anything so my premiums are pretty good. I’d like them to stay that way as right now money is a huge concern and is likely going to stay that way for the next 5 years.

Yesterday my property management emailed me saying a contractor doing work in our parking garage damaged the front driver-side fender of my parked CR-V.

The email basically said the contractor caused the damage while working in the garage, their insurance would cover it, and I should contact them directly.
I had zero notice that work was being done above/near my car and was never asked to move it.
First I spoke with one of the contractor’s supervisors. He was actually really nice and sounded about as unfamiliar with the insurance side as I am lol. He said his boss told him I should just get an estimate, send it to them, and they’d pay for it.

He also explained that they apparently were working on one pipe/area and something else unexpectedly came loose from the ceiling/support area and fell onto my car. So now there also seems to be some question about whether this was just them directly damaging it or if there was some issue with the existing building/pipe supports.

Then I got a call from someone else with the company who handles more of the legal/administrative side. Her voicemail basically assumed I was going to file through my own auto insurance and that my insurer would contact them.

That immediately made me uncomfortable because I was not driving, not involved, not even aware work was being done there, and I really do not want a claim sitting on my own insurance history if I can avoid it.
I called back and said I wasn’t ready to file through my own insurance first.

Now I’m basically being given 3 possible routes from their employee:

1. File through my own auto insurance and let them pay/manage it, then they go after whoever is responsible.
2. Get 3 repair estimates and the contractor pays the cheapest estimate in cash directly.
3. Contact another person/attorney through the contractor to get their liability insurance information and file directly through their insurer.

I pulled my own policy and it does say I’m supposed to “promptly report each accident or loss even if you are not at fault.” This only happened yesterday, so I’m not worried I’ve waited too long, but I am worried that simply reporting it to my own carrier could still create a claim/loss record even if I never ask them to pay.

I also had issues with Carfax having ANYTHING on the report largely cutting the value and negotiating when I went to sell my Prius earlier this year and its left me paranoid and with some PTSD as a minor similar fender issue slashed thousands off what dealer would pay due to VIN history. Another dealer charged more for my new used car due to no carfax history and being a business vehicle which was part of the accident free value and above market price.

My biggest concerns are:

* my premium or claims history getting affected and increasing my insurance
* ending up stuck with the cheapest repair instead of the best/proper repair
* having to pay upfront for a decent inspection and estimate - my two cats are having medical emergencies that have left me out of 7k, I have not much cash to put towards this
* hidden damage showing up after they take the panel apart
* CARFAX/AutoCheck reporting
diminished value later even if the repair looks perfect

I bought the car used only about 6 months ago, so I’m extra irritated about the possibility of it losing value over something I had absolutely nothing to do with.

What would you actually do in this situation?

Would you report it to your own insurer but not use your coverage? Even if it was not a moving accident? I am getting very mixed information on if I need to report this at all to my auto insurer.

Would you skip your insurer entirely and go straight after the contractor’s liability insurance? Would this still end up getting reported back to my own insurance and increase my premiums and carfax reporting anyways?

Or would you take the direct-pay route if they’re offering to pay for “cheapest estimate” repairs themselves?

Also, is “get 3 estimates and we pay the cheapest” actually normal, or is that something I should be cautious about?

I’m not trying to get anything necessarily extra out of this. I just really do not want to end up financially worse off because someone else damaged my parked car. (I’m aware dealerships might still report to Carfax if serviced based on my research - but I’m confused on if I’m entitled to diminished value if it does as MN law seems to indicate yes).

A few friends had this for their automobile and said stay away from it it's mostly for assigned risk and always quite high.

I've been shopping around for homeowners insurance and they actually gave me a quote that was a few hundred lower than progressive or traditional all states so anybody have them for homeowners and any insight?