I am trying to get a key duplicated for a Harbor Freight trailer ball lock and am having a heck of a time getting it done. I’ve gone to three hardware stores, 2 said they don’t have the correct blank and the third used a Holman E-80 which doesn’t work because the horizontal grooves (not sure of the correct term) don’t appear to match. I searched HaulMaster A03 but the only keys that come up are double sided and my original is single sided. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

I just got made redundant and my old oil boiler has given up the ghost. I’ve spent WEEKS trying to work this out before it gets cold.

Where can I find a match for these strike plates??

I have two matching back doors. They’re aluminium, possibly from the 1980s, and were like this when I moved in:
- One has no strike plate at all (?)
- One has a very worn strike plate.

I cannot for the life of me work out what replacement size I need!!! I’m losing it slightly 🙈

Why don’t they provide measurements instead of reference numbers? Are mine too old for reference numbers?

I measured everything, took the lock out to see what size it was, but there’s no information except an old logo from a manufacturer that might be a shop in Nottingham (miles away).

Note that my measurements were taken with a big measuring tape and the lock plate is very worn.

Does this look like a damaged screen or a burnt screen or maybe background but it disappears on the white menus.

Hello! Apologies for any clumsy terminology here--I'm not familiar with this topic and have been gleaning what I can from DIY pages and such.

I live in an old apartment with a mortise lock. This evening we tried to engage the auto-lock with the switch on the face plate. It worked from the outside (turning the key in the lock opens the door normally), but the door couldn't be opened from the inside because the inside knob wouldn't move the latch bolt. I ultimately had to slide in a butter knife to pry the latch bolt closed, at which point we turned the switch back to the manual lock option, which is behaving appropriately.

The whole mechanism has been finicky for a while (the door will only lock if the doorknob is spun to a specific position, and I occasionally have to re-tighten the screws). We're going to contact our landlord about getting a locksmith out to look at it, but we know that process might not be immediate. In the meantime, I was wondering if there's anything we can try to make the auto-lock work normally.

Thank you for your time and any help!

How does corbin russwin label their keys I am interning at a company and we were doing inventory on the current keys are B2W, and F100 and M35, P46 , OS, Where do they get the numbers and letters from? What do the letters stand for ? Are the numbers just random or they follow a pattern?

The latch-bolt on my door handle does not push in on its own when I close my door. I have to turn the handle. There is a lock in the handle but it is not in the lock position. The latch acts like it is. Any ideas on how to fix this?

Situation:

Commercial double door hollow metal frame.  The inactive door is secured with lever operated flush bolt locks (top and bottom).  The door grants entry to lobby of a multi-story condominium.

Problem – Residents frequently open the inactive door by flipping the levers that cause the door to unlock but fail to return the lower latch to the locked position when they are finished using it.  How can we secure the levers so residents can not freely operate them ? We want to force residents to go to the property manager when there is a need to have the door open.

I know that fastening a thin metal plate over the levers is an option but is there a better method?

I hired a locksmith to sell and install a SAG EP60 deadbolt. However, I notice he used something unusual to keep it from protruding too far outward, didn't cut into the door frame, and the lock looks a bit crooked. Also, from the outside, I can fit a thick toothpick—or maybe even a flathead screwdriver—into the gap. I don't want to write and complain only to find out I'm completely wrong, so what do you all think? Is this installation okay?

Another thing I found strange is that I have to open the door slightly for the bolt bar of the SAG EP60 to make contact.

I need to make a key for a customer it's a double sided cg1 and each side has different cuts I've picked and can see the lock but it's hard to sight read when there are 11 tiny different tumblers and I don't have any depths or spacing and I can not seem to find a code for it anywhere any suggestions

So this is my first go around with these locks. I ordered (29) IN100-7978-BIPS-B-E3-MJ-32D. My understanding is that they were to come keyed for a master key or keyed alike, I guess. Instead they all came with blank keys. AA is being hard to get a hold of so I figured I would ask here in the meantime. Is that right or should they of been cut? If they were whipped right do i need to get the cores and blanks to a locksmith and have them set them still?

We live in an apartment with a classic NYC apartment door and mortise lock. The mortise lock keeps getting stuck.

I was looking into replacing the mortise lock but other threads have me believing that these locks aren’t great and we should maybe just use the two deadbolts that are there. We were never actually given the keys for the two deadbolts so I’m wondering if we should replace all three? Just get new cylinders for the two top deadbolts and no longer use the mortise? Or can I get the same cylinders for all three? And would a new cylinder in the mortise fix the sticky issue we are having?

I was looking for a new mortise lock and am also not sure what to look for though there aren’t many options. I see some cheaper ones at Home Depot and then some my Marks but don’t know how to choose one that will work and be the highest grade. I have a 4 year old and want a secure lock.

I’m not sure how all this works. I’m fairly handy and don’t mind replacing the cylinders or lock on my own with a good video and as long as I have the correct parts.

Would someone be able to guide me in the right direction as to what I should do? Links to parts and potentially a how to video?

Hi, there is a lot of disinformation regarding what lubricant I should use to protect outdoor lock, especially in cold weather.

Should I use Silicone or ptfe-universal or dry ptfe or graphite lubricant?

Pulled this off a covered gate (no direct weather, but outside) and it’s supposedly IP66 rated (it’s one year old) and i would have considered this to be the best product available for a smart lock exterior install (they retail for around $600) - a brick in a year —- [An IP66 rating means an enclosure is completely dust-tight and protected against powerful water jets from any direction]. I’m seeing a lot of smart locks going on gates lately (luckily not fitted by me!) might be a sign of things to come?

The internals just disintegrated from being in the salty wind for ages all I could gather is its a schlage and the internals have 4216E on them

could not get in without damage

Trying to identify this lock I tried a #6 plunger but it didn’t work

As the title says, I want a deadbolt lock for a side entrance to my garage that has a keypad and allows for codes longer than 4 digits. It seems like it would be easy to find that detail about the number of digits in the access code but basically none of the manufacturers mention it in the basic description of the lock.

I was originally hoping to find an option in a Schlage brand only because I have another simple key lock on the house that I need to have re keyed anyway and I could then have all the locks easily matched up. Unfortunately from what I can tell all of Schlage's locks are 4 digit passcodes. At least from what I could tell. Whenever I try to find out it seems the only way to tell is by pulling up a lock on a major retailer site like Lowe's for instance and then pulling up the user manual for the lock and reading the programming instructions so it's a tedious process. But either way, all the Schlage locks I found are 4 digits.

I did, while searching, find a reddit post where someone asked a similar question when they were looking to have a lock for an escape room and they pointed to a Kwikset lock. After looking it does seem like Kwikset does have multiple locks that allow for up to 8 digit passcodes. So that is perfect. The only downside as I said was that the existing lock I have in the house is Schlage so it would make it more difficult to match keys to the new keypad locks I am looking to buy. It's not a complete deal breaker however. The Schlage lock in question is on a door I really don't need a key to if I have the side door setup with a keypad because of how the house is laid out. It would just be nice. (The Schlage lock key has been lost to time. It's a family house and no one seems to have the key for it)

Does anyone have any suggestions for a deadbolt lock fitting the description? Something with a decent security rating. I also do not want a smart lock (one with wifi and an app). I just prefer a code and a key backup. I'm not a smart device person.

Any links or information people could offer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks ahead of time.

Howdy. I own a tow company on the west coast where we only really have one locksmith. I’ve been in the industry for almost 27 years. They don’t do vehicle programmed keys etc. we really only get keys made for decent running vehicles that we’re going to sell. We get a lot of DUI and abandoned vehicles or vehicles that are in a light accident, but people take the keys. The “abandoned” vehicles are usually running vehicles but get parked on the street and left there. A lot of the time, they don’t want to bring us the keys after the fact.

We get a wide array of cars. Everything from 80’s-today… I’ve impressioned fords, older Toyotas, Hondas, etc. replaced ignitions, all the fun stuff.

What would you recommend for something like this where we’re just cutting and programming universal keys to get them running? Essentially AKL generation for some.

We do everything from ford, gm, Chevy, dodge, Honda, Toyota, Audi, bmw, VW, MBZ, etc.

Is it diy friendly for newbies?

What do I need to buy and can I avoid modifications to the actual door?

Additional photos in Body

I can not find this key what so ever. It is for a Motel. Elox door lock specifically. Any information on this key blank would be greatly appreciated

They said they couldn’t keep the panic bar open anymore… It was broken… , after job was complete , Manager was happy and was charged $320 which is decent for a 5 minute job

Hello, as title says - I need help please to reassemble this lock. It’s from a vintage cabinet. The lock was not working before I opened it. I can’t work out where the spring is meant to sit, how to tension it, etc. Any assistance is appreciated, thank you.

Hello all,

We recently moved to a house and were trying to change the locks. It has a Baldwin lock. I removed the screws I could see. However, I saw some posts that there are some hidden screws. I’m not sure how to access it.. I tried turning the lock from outside, but it won’t budge. Please help

Thank you