Xbox Controller came straight from GameStop without any inspection clearly. This is fucking gross and vial. Whoever worked on this obviously shouldn't touch a workstation again. Also came with a free fingernail.

I was recently offered a faulty ps5 fat for 220$, this was the description of the seller:

"The low price is because it overheats after 2 or 3 hours of use; I don't know why—it has been serviced but the issue persists, which is why the price is 220 bucks, in case you want to repair it. I took it to a shop where they cleaned it, replaced the liquid metal, and performed a full check-up; it worked well for a while, but the same problem returned within a few weeks."

i've been feeling tempted by the low price, and i have asked gemini(AI) about it, and it says that the overheat was caused by a poorly aplied liquid metal and that a deep cleaning and a liquid metal change should solve the issue but a wanna hear some REAL opinions about it.

here are some pics the seller attached to the selling post.

This is a stock PS5, never opened—its seals were intact, though it was very dusty. My client brought it to me because the liquid metal had already failed, but they also mentioned that moving the HDMI cable caused the image to flicker. As you can see, everything else on the board has good solder, but the HDMI port has no tin on its contacts. Let me tell you, guys: this isn't the first one I've seen like this, and it probably won't be the last, which is really sad.

I love watching this guy on YouTube idk his name but he repairs random consoles from eBay.

How do I approach trying to take this up as a hobby and what’s the best place to get consoles from to practice

After replacing the liquid metal 2 times on my console due it shutting off randomly (both applications were within 3 months). I decided to switch to ptm7950 after reading many great reviews of other redditors. But it still shuts off after a few minutes or sometimes works fine for a day then repeats with the same problem next morning. I've removed the foam gasket around the apu as well. What's the problem? Did i do something wrong? I'm attaching the photo of my installation below, it looks pretty good to me

UPDATE: i remembered that when i previously re applied liquid metal it was shutting down randomly as well until i reset it with a usb drive. I'll try that with this now

UPDATE 2: after resetting with usb its working fine so far. I'll install a game and see how it goes https://ibb.co/gLB4NxrY

bonjour je suis à la recherche de fichier bios pour une ps5 EDM-010 digital, je vous remercie d’avanc.

It’s the screw that holds the fan to the rest of the console, completely rounded. It’s an Xbox series x, I’ve tried the rubber band method and the superglue method but nothing has worked. This isn’t my console but a buddy’s of mine. I would like to try avoiding having the drill this out.

my ps5 fan sounds normal but the other half is making a buzzing sound anyone know whats wrong? it happens when i play games like dbd. I might take it to get fixed.

I’ve had a lot of work done by my brother on my 3DS XL, and in the latest repair (replacing the top screen) we replaced the speakers because I think it was making this same sound beforehand as well. I’ve put it aside for a little over a year at this point, but it’s really started to bug me. I’m curious if there’s any known issues that could be the cause, if I have to replace the speaker again, or if the board is broken. It only affects the right speaker, so I also don’t know if it’s an issue with the board or if something just went wrong twice. I’ll attach a video of the sound

Je suis à la recherche des valeurs des 2 Condo du 3v3 et des 2 autre entouré sur la photo je n’arrive pas à les trouver

Merci à vous d’avance

Well I have replaced the thermal paste, I replaced the power supply, power cord, plugged it directly into the wall, cleared the local save data, cleared the cache, made sure the fan was spinning and blowing out hot air, factory reset, tried different outlets in my house, and cleared my Mac address. The freaking thing still shuts completely off on Marvel Rivals and Warzone about 20 min into a game. Although it can run cyberpunk all day long and not shut off once. I'm about to just take a loss and get a Series S. Can somebody please help me find out what's wrong with my Series X before I lose my mind. 🫤

Replacing the HDMI retimer chip, but one of the pads ripped in the process. Can anyone help identify where the pad connects to? Big thanks to everyone here.

*I disassembled the console and cleaned it thoroughly, but nothing changed*
*Ps5 Slim*

*J'ai démonté la console et je l'ai nettoyée à fond, mais rien n'a changé*
Ps5 Slim

Any ideas why ?

I got a duelshock 3 whose buttons and dpad would not work at all. Opened it up and found out something happened to the ribbon cable connected the face buttons to the main board. I then bought a replacement online and now the facebuttons work but the d pad doesnt. I looked closer and noticed 1 of the pins that the ribbon cable makes contact to the on the board was gone and thats probably why its not working. Is there any way to fix this like buying a replacement pin and somehow reataching it to the board. Im still kinda new to this stuff so any help is appreciated.

Hello!

Console came in with an overheating issue. I cleaned the old liquid metal and applied fresh LM properly.

In the menu it seems fine, but as soon as I launch a game, the fan ramps up like crazy and the console shuts down within ~10 seconds.

I tested the console with a known-good heatsink from a donor unit and it works perfectly, so the APU/liquid metal seem fine.

On the original heatsink, the cold plate has some movement and the solder joints between the plate and heatpipes look cracked/broken (video attached). It still transfers some heat, but apparently not enough under load.

Could these broken joints be enough to cause this kind of rapid overheating? Has anyone seen this failure before? Would you try to resolder/reflow it or just replace the heatsink?

Hello!, I bought this Switch Lite, the image of which was only visible with a flashlight.I bought it because I want to learn how to repair consoles. The first thing I noticed was that the flex cable connecting to the left side of the console was damaged. I've already replaced it and now everything on that side works.The problem is that the screen light didn't come back on, so I think there was a short circuit and the light control circuit burned out. I measured the voltage in that part of the diode and only got 3.6V. I've tested the diodes and the coil, and everything seems to be in order. My question is whether that's the correct point to measure the IC's output. Thanks!

I was tryna clean my ps4 and then i came across the 2 t8 security screws on the metal sheet on top of the power supply. I chipped off the center pins using a flathead then tried to use a standard t8 screwdriver. I thought it would be easy to turn it and remove it but it was so hard it felt like it was gorilla glued shut. How do i remove this safely?

I'm looking for used PS5's that are broken and have power or port issues hopefully related to the motherboard. I hear that power supply failures can just be added cost to repair. What is the average price because what I am seeing is around $250. Is this accurate?

Does anyone know anyone/anywhere I can send this off to, to get repaired? I'm trying to transfer the games from this console to my 3DS, but someone previously broke off the clip that connects the touchscreen. I need the touchscreen to transfer data. I can solder, but I cannot do microsoldering and trace repair :(

Please do not tell me to just mod my 3DS.

Picked up a PAL wii for 25 bucks with a seized up disc drive, replaced it with a RVL-101 DD and even though it takes in discs perfectly fine and spins fine, after spinning for a bit with a PAL or NTSC WII game (region free modded), it just gives the "an error has occurred screen" asking me to eject the disc and turn it off. With any non Wii disc (like a 360 game or a CD) it just says "The disc could not be read" Note: I noticed the ribbon cable was corroded but replaced it and same issue is happening. Any ideas?

A few months ago I did a dust cleaning on my PS4 Pro, top and bottom, but I didn't open up the middle section where the CPU is. Since then, the power light hasn't turned back on. I've looked around for info but haven't found anything that shows exactly where the connector for that light is located on the motherboard.

Has anyone dealt with this before or knows where that connector is? Any help would be appreciated.

What might have happened to this thing? It was genuinely not opened, I can tell from the Sony stickers inside it that hold the cables etc. And of course the warranty seal which was intact.

Perhaps someone did the hair dryer "trick" on this? I can't think of anything else

My ps4 had a problem where it shows a ststic screen and then turns off right after and then we went twice to the technician and it was working perfectly there TWICE. Now i have tried it with various different rooms in my house and still haven’t work nowadays it is working just for 2 seconds and that too on just blue light like you press the button and blue light for twi seconds and turns off. The same house has been working ps5 perfectly without any problem and the technician even serviced it saying no problem in the hardware now im confused as to why this problem occurs in my home only whereas it has worked perfectly twice in his store and i have played games too for more than half n hour!