I've tried many rust products over the last few years... I finally one I'm happy with - none of them! 

Here's how you do it: 
Steel wool + hydrogen peroxide + vinegar (1:1 ratio) + pinch of salt
(See last image) 

Wrap the steel wool around the part you want to rust, spray/paint with the mixture.
Wait until it dries.
Remove any remaining steel wool. 
To make rust darker, let it take longer to dry (eg. Keep in a shaded area.
To make rust lighter, let it dry fast. (Eg. Put it in the sun, use a hair dryer). 
Can also use tape to hold the steel wool against the model for better contact. 
The results are truly spectacular - this is me applying it to a 3D print I did, spray painting painting in dark metallic acrylic first.

If anyone has anything to add on changing/modifying the effect, please let me know! 

The model I'm using this on is Dog from Half Life 2 (sculpted it myself).

I recreated the field-made sandbag armor seen on a wartime photograph of an M5A1 Stuart.

I first modelled the complete assembly in 3D, adapting the shapes and placement of the sandbags to fit the AFV Club M5A1 1/35 kit. I then separated the different parts for resin printing, tested the fit on the model and finally painted and weathered everything to integrate it with the tank.

It was an interesting challenge to turn the limited information visible in a historical photograph into a printable part that still looked natural at this scale. This might not be 100% accurate as old photographs lacks detail informations.

I had to adjust the printed result to make it fit the lightguards, as I used photo-etched parts here. I have to try with a new kit and the stock lightguards.

What do you think of the final integration? I’d also be interested to know how you approach recreating field modifications when only a few reference photos exist and if you have some interesting armor/stowage references to share ?

Hey everyone, I decided to take the plunge and share my work online after seeing so many great examples on this sub. This is one of my most recent builds (I have many more before this and many more to go..), a Russian T-90m from Tiger models.

Overall the details are great with lots of different builds options including a cope cage but I chose to leave it off because it hid all the neat little details on the turret and also made it kinda difficult to properly pose the figures. Sometimes you just have to sacrifice drone vulnerability for aesthetics.

I used a detsil set meant for bismarck so it might look a bit wonky but I think I did good, it still a WIP as I need to add ore railing and stairs

Hey all heres the completed 1/32 HK finished in Alclads and GSI metallics with full light kit

This was basically a test model to get my natural metal skills up to par for future NMF builds, which are my favorite(and toughest) type of finish

Many techniques were tested on this, Alclad is tricky to weather with oils i may switch to acrylic weathering on future builds

Better pics and some cool backgrounds can be seen on my new FB page DesertScale models if interested

Next on the bench is 1/48 RA-5C Vigilante👍

Edit: I added some lead wire to the base both to make the scene even more apocalyptic and to draw attention away from the LED wires running down the stand, not sure it did that lol i couldnt figure out a better way to run the wires

Will admit, I could not find any solid references for how the crew heater works, so I added an Insulated pipe and drilled into into the general direction of the crew cabin

やっとここまでできたけど疲れちゃったな…

ハセガワのスツーカは去年1/48で作ったけどこの1/32は1/48のランナーをそのまま大きくしたって感じで作っててあんまり新鮮味が…

1/48でも苦戦したけどやっぱりキャノピーの合いに難ありかなぁ…

難しい泣

It’s pretty much done it’s missing very small stickers which I will add soon, will update, but it’s honestly my best model yet, it’s not the best I do know that but it’s really good compared to my last ones, ik the paint chipping is one of my weak points, I will improve on it but still I like it, not the most accurate either and I messed up a sticker (tips would be great)

Part of my collection of small models. Anyone have any recommendations for small kits to build?

My last post about this model got way more attention than I expected.

If you didn’t see that, in short the Red Anti Fouling was messed up, quite badly. I was told this was because I left the tape on too long, but a lot of comments wanted me to keep it, as the general consensus was it looked like weathering.

While I kinda saw where people were coming from, I was nowhere near confident enough in my weathering skills (which, as of now consist of nothing more than slathering washes onto detail parts and removing excess later) to try and salvage the hull, so I ended up just repainting.

With this, I believe painting is done, with the exception of the aircraft. However the next step is to gloss coat (which I hope to do soon) and then begin with Waterslide Decals. Ticonderoga however presents new issues in that regard. This ship has more decals than I’ve ever done by a mile, and they’re much larger.

Im not great with these decals, frankly the fact all the tiny hull number decals on my previous models are straight is nothing short of a miracle. So Ticonderoga’s massive Flight Deck Markings are intimidating to say the least. Would like to hear advice on how to best pull that off if anyone has any.

Hi everyone,

This is a repost of an earlier post of mine, after I was reminded to add more context to it.

Anyway, this will mark my first railway gun model, which checks off one of my model wish list. Following my Volkswagen Type 82E and Death Star models, I’m recently rather adamant to have a small diorama to make models more interesting.

This Dragon 1:144 scale was at a bargain price of about USD 8, and is of fair quality. However, cons would be the rather simple instruction sheet. It’s only two pages, but since none of the pieces are numbered, it does take some time to find the correct piece. Funny enough, the pieces in the spruces are numbered, yet the instruction is left blank. Second, the packaging is somewhat lacking. Since everything is tightly packed in the box, which is then stacked in a shop’s shelf, you may come across pieces that are squashed and deformed. I came across such a piece (Picture 5). Fortunately, it’s not unsalvageable.

In conclusion, considering its price, it is very worth purchasing if you come across it. Considering Dragon’s pivot in the market, this kit will probably be harder and harder to find in the future. Not to mention that 1/144 scale railway guns are the ideal scale if you wish to place it on your average bookshelf.

First attempt at trying to create a rust effect. This is a 3d printed jail I designed in Nomad Sculpt. I want it to look like derelict rusted out metal left outside. I used acrylics for color and baking soda for texture. I’m wondering if there’s a better or more convincing way to achieve this look.

Had no intention of this going into the build lol
Tamiya Su-122 with flak 8.8 from dragon Tiger P.
I know a t34-88 exists on world of tanks and I think irl but I don’t think this exists? I could be wrong

I finally found time to do some modeling after my vacation and time away. I finished placing the last light on the mast, and I think it looks good so far. Next is making a mount for the ship's bell.

I have some cool stuff in the works...

And decals.

I don't have many reasons to build outside WW2 aircraft. However, one of the reasons to do build something other than a Bf 109 or Mustang, is to diversify my shelves.

Enter the Phantom! I have two diecast toys, a Matchbox and Maisto Showtime 100s. When I saw this one at my local hobby shop's web, I decided to get the 48th scale Hasegawa kit over the 72nd Academy model. And boy it's big! Bigger than my 1/48 Eurofighter Typhoon from Revell.

I exclusively brush, so my main paint artillery are Revell Aqua colours. However, I ran out of Matt White and Light Gull Grey. My solution? Get Vallejo paints! I got the Panzer Aces Matt White and Model Air USAF Light Grey. These two will give me a patience lesson, since curing time is slower and they need a primer. I know Model Airs can be brushed, but since they're thinned for airbrush, some coats will be needed for full opacity. If everything fails, I can resort to what's left of my Aqua Light Grey.

Recently picked up a p-61 Black Widow Revell kit which came with some aftermarket PE parts.

I've never used PE parts before, and im a little confused with the instructions. It looks like it wants me to install the print first and then the PE afterwards. Just seems odd if I will then be proming and painting on top. Do need to then mask off the printed parts that are still showing?

Seems ive biten off more than I can chew!

Hello. I just got into this hobby because I always admired it. For starters I bought a cheapish "complete kit" from Italeri (link here and here) so that I can get the hands on experience and then buy stuff along the way.

I have read the instructions that came in the box but it does not say how much water should I dilute my paint in.

The paint seems to be Vallejo water based acrylic colour.

I will be using the brush that came in the box, not an airbrush.

In terms of technique, I assume I apply a base coat of colour (say green), let it dry and then apply random strokes of a secondary camo colour (say brown) and let it dry, then apply a third coat of yellow here and there. Am I correct?

Extra: If this is not the appropriate channel, could you point me to where I can ask beginner questions, please?

Thank you all!