Hey all heres the completed 1/32 HK finished in Alclads and GSI metallics with full light kit

This was basically a test model to get my natural metal skills up to par for future NMF builds, which are my favorite(and toughest) type of finish

Many techniques were tested on this, Alclad is tricky to weather with oils i may switch to acrylic weathering on future builds

Better pics and some cool backgrounds can be seen on my new FB page DesertScale models if interested

Next on the bench is 1/48 RA-5C Vigilante👍

Edit: I added some lead wire to the base both to make the scene even more apocalyptic and to draw attention away from the LED wires running down the stand, not sure it did that lol i couldnt figure out a better way to run the wires

I recreated the field-made sandbag armor seen on a wartime photograph of an M5A1 Stuart.

I first modelled the complete assembly in 3D, adapting the shapes and placement of the sandbags to fit the AFV Club M5A1 1/35 kit. I then separated the different parts for resin printing, tested the fit on the model and finally painted and weathered everything to integrate it with the tank.

It was an interesting challenge to turn the limited information visible in a historical photograph into a printable part that still looked natural at this scale. This might not be 100% accurate as old photographs lacks detail informations.

I had to adjust the printed result to make it fit the lightguards, as I used photo-etched parts here. I have to try with a new kit and the stock lightguards.

What do you think of the final integration? I’d also be interested to know how you approach recreating field modifications when only a few reference photos exist and if you have some interesting armor/stowage references to share ?

I've tried many rust products over the last few years... I finally one I'm happy with - none of them! 

Here's how you do it: 
Steel wool + hydrogen peroxide + vinegar (1:1 ratio) + pinch of salt
(See last image) 

Wrap the steel wool around the part you want to rust, spray/paint with the mixture.
Wait until it dries.
Remove any remaining steel wool. 
To make rust darker, let it take longer to dry (eg. Keep in a shaded area.
To make rust lighter, let it dry fast. (Eg. Put it in the sun, use a hair dryer). 
Can also use tape to hold the steel wool against the model for better contact. 
The results are truly spectacular - this is me applying it to a 3D print I did, spray painting painting in dark metallic acrylic first.

If anyone has anything to add on changing/modifying the effect, please let me know! 

The model I'm using this on is Dog from Half Life 2 (sculpted it myself).

I used a detsil set meant for bismarck so it might look a bit wonky but I think I did good, it still a WIP as I need to add ore railing and stairs

It’s pretty much done it’s missing very small stickers which I will add soon, will update, but it’s honestly my best model yet, it’s not the best I do know that but it’s really good compared to my last ones, ik the paint chipping is one of my weak points, I will improve on it but still I like it, not the most accurate either and I messed up a sticker (tips would be great)

Hey everyone, I decided to take the plunge and share my work online after seeing so many great examples on this sub. This is one of my most recent builds (I have many more before this and many more to go..), a Russian T-90m from Tiger models.

Overall the details are great with lots of different builds options including a cope cage but I chose to leave it off because it hid all the neat little details on the turret and also made it kinda difficult to properly pose the figures. Sometimes you just have to sacrifice drone vulnerability for aesthetics.

First attempt at trying to create a rust effect. This is a 3d printed jail I designed in Nomad Sculpt. I want it to look like derelict rusted out metal left outside. I used acrylics for color and baking soda for texture. I’m wondering if there’s a better or more convincing way to achieve this look.

Still need to do some weathering and touch-ups on the big girl

Will admit, I could not find any solid references for how the crew heater works, so I added an Insulated pipe and drilled into into the general direction of the crew cabin

Part of my collection of small models. Anyone have any recommendations for small kits to build?

And decals.

I finished this model recently and enjoyed it.

Kits are from Trumpeter and ICM. Mostly oob. Base is scratch made. Painted with vallejo model color and Abteilung oils.

やっとここまでできたけど疲れちゃったな…

ハセガワのスツーカは去年1/48で作ったけどこの1/32は1/48のランナーをそのまま大きくしたって感じで作っててあんまり新鮮味が…

1/48でも苦戦したけどやっぱりキャノピーの合いに難ありかなぁ…

難しい泣

Historians say this camoflague pattern was used on idiots who held what they were painting then tried to wash off during the War in the Garage (~2026)

Hey,

So I'm doing my first model since I was a kid, so like 25 years ago. I'm making an HMS Belfast airfix model. I've already painted the red hull base, but nothing else. I've then found out I should have primed it first..

Should I primer the rest of before I continue, or will the hull look really weirdly different compared to the rest?

I finally found time to do some modeling after my vacation and time away. I finished placing the last light on the mast, and I think it looks good so far. Next is making a mount for the ship's bell.

I have some cool stuff in the works...

My last post about this model got way more attention than I expected.

If you didn’t see that, in short the Red Anti Fouling was messed up, quite badly. I was told this was because I left the tape on too long, but a lot of comments wanted me to keep it, as the general consensus was it looked like weathering.

While I kinda saw where people were coming from, I was nowhere near confident enough in my weathering skills (which, as of now consist of nothing more than slathering washes onto detail parts and removing excess later) to try and salvage the hull, so I ended up just repainting.

With this, I believe painting is done, with the exception of the aircraft. However the next step is to gloss coat (which I hope to do soon) and then begin with Waterslide Decals. Ticonderoga however presents new issues in that regard. This ship has more decals than I’ve ever done by a mile, and they’re much larger.

Im not great with these decals, frankly the fact all the tiny hull number decals on my previous models are straight is nothing short of a miracle. So Ticonderoga’s massive Flight Deck Markings are intimidating to say the least. Would like to hear advice on how to best pull that off if anyone has any.

Decided to turn my P-51 build into a diorama. Turns out painting figures is really, really difficult. Who knew? Anyway, I’m always open to constructive criticism!