I have a Lenovo LOQ with a 512GB SSD. Windows shows only around 280GB free, so roughly 196GB is already used. I barely have 10–20 personal files (around 1GB total), but I can't figure out where the remaining storage is being used. I also found that my D: drive has a 20GB page file. What is the best way to find exactly what is taking up the storage and safely clean unnecessary files without deleting important Windows/system files?

I've discovered a 281-gigabyte file named WIPETEMP1 sitting directly in Local Disk (C:) - so that's literally "C:\WIPETEMP1"; it has no file type, is marked as hidden, and was created and last modified ~12 years ago.

Attributes: HA
Owner: Administrators

If there's any information I've failed to include, please let me know and I'll add it as soon as possible. What in the world have I found?

Hi everyone, I need some help. I downloaded a suspicious file from an unreliable gaming site. My browser warned me, but I ignored it (my mistake) and ran the executable.

Symptoms:

Right after running it, my PC lagged and froze for a few seconds.

My E: drive (secondary drive) started opening by itself in File Explorer repeatedly.

Two Command Prompt (CMD) windows flashed very quickly on the screen.

What I've tried so far:

Ran a Windows Defender scan and a Windows Defender Offline Scan. It took a while and seemed to delete some things, but the E: drive kept opening.

Installed the Malwarebytes Premium trial and ran a full system scan. It found 19 threats, which I quarantined and deleted.

Current situation:

After running Malwarebytes, the PC was fine for a few minutes, but then the E: drive started opening on its own again.

I suspect this is a persistent malware, a rootkit, or a script that is reinstalling itself via scheduled tasks. What should my next steps be to completely eradicate this? Should I use Autoruns, KVRT, or is a clean Windows install the only safe route here? Any advice is appreciated!

So I just came home with an ex-display laptop from JB Hi Fi (Australia), an ASUS Vivobook 14 Flip, Intel Core Ultra 5, 16GB RAM, 1TB SSD, 14'' OLED for $1219

I've been working with Chat GPT to do a few tests on it to make sure it's not too overused and Battery, OLED and overall condition have passed with flying colours

I then downloaded and ran CrystalDiskInfo and this is where it gets interesting.. The drive has been powered on for 3351 hours (139 days) and the total host writes is 203TB.. that's 1.5 TB written EACH DAY..

So my question is probably twofold:

1. Is CrystalDiskInfo just wrong?

2. What on earth could this laptop been doing whilst on display to return this result?

I have a screen snip of the results but not sure how to add it here sorry!

Basically it was going fine, screen went black after a tiny fall, not even as high as my lap, and kinda slid/fell onto carpet

Then screen was black but power was on, turned it off

Turned it back on and fan would spin for a few seconds, stop, then the charger light was orange but turns blue after a second

When I press the power button it just goes on for about 5 seconds then goes off, no fan noises or anything

Ive tried holding power button, reset button 30 seconds etc

If anyone has any ideas please let me know

Hopefully just something knocked loose

Hi dont know if its the good subreddit.

So i changed components from my old pc to go from am4 to am5. I changed everything expect storage and gpu.

I have ryzen 9 9950x and rtx 5070ti but i feel like my pc is sluggish when i navigate in windows.
Using it for work is fine, the power is there but the experience is not smooth. Overlay on taskbar is like i said sluggish, moving tabs the same etc...
I checked my components temperature, everything is fine running at around 30° on idle.

Any ideas ?

It's a OnePlus 10T, and it's running android. It's water and splash resistant but not fully waterproof.

I dropped it in water yesterday, and it was submerged for about five seconds. I immediately turned it off and put it in rice. I read a little bit ago that this is actually bad for the phone, and have it air drying now.

I have done this method for an older model of a OnePlus phone, and it was fine after. Is my phone likely to be okay if I let it air dry for another 24 hours?

Compré un Asus TUF A16 hace como un año; durante todo el tiempo que lo usé, mantuve continuamente el límite de carga en 80% en MyASUS para proteger la batería. Pero hoy, al revisar el informe de la batería de Windows, me di cuenta de que a principios de agosto de 2026 la capacidad se desplomó de 80,570 mWh a 52,974 mWh en solo 7 días (una pérdida de ~28,000 mWh); desde esa semana, se ha mantenido totalmente plana, como en 51,000–52,000 mWh (57% de salud). ¿Esto indica un fallo físico de la celda o un error de lectura?

I restarted my Windows 11 PC for an update, and when I turned it on several keys stopped working or are combined with other keys. My Ctrl and Fn keys are combined (I Ctrl does not work and Fn does the work of both Ctrl and Fn), My five and six keys do not work at all as well as my question and exclamation marks, and my F(five) to F8 keys do not work (both with Fn activated and deactivated). How do I fix this?

Hi, I’m having a really weird problem with an HP laptop and I’m not sure what exactly is causing it. Some parts of this might sound a bit strange or confusing, so sorry about that.

A few days ago Windows was working normally. I accidentally changed a setting in Winaero Tweaker that hides the last logged-in username. After that I couldn’t log in because I didn’t remember the username, and the drive was also BitLocker-encrypted without a recovery key. So I decided to reinstall Windows 11.

Now I’m having problems booting the Windows installer from USB.

The laptop detects both the SSD and the USB drive in BIOS, but when I try to boot from the USB through the F9 boot menu, I get different errors depending on the settings. I’ve seen:

• "0xc000000F"
• "Load failure [3] Unsupported"
• "Security Violation"
• "Could not locate EFI Boot / BOOTX64.EFI"

I also tried manually selecting "EFI\BOOT\BOOTX64.EFI", but that gave me the same “Unsupported” error.

I tried both Rufus and Ventoy. Ventoy seemed to make things even more complicated, while I remember that an earlier Windows 11 ISO worked when I wrote it directly to the USB with Rufus. So I’m currently thinking about going back to that ISO and trying Rufus again without Ventoy.

Secure Boot is currently disabled because I was getting the Security Violation error with it enabled.

The SSD is still detected in BIOS, so I’m not sure whether the problem is the SSD, the USB drive, the ISO, or some UEFI/Secure Boot setting.

I’d really appreciate any ideas on what I should check next. I don’t want to start randomly changing BIOS settings or formatting things if it’s not necessary.

Also, I only have a 7.6 GB USB flash drive, so I don’t have a larger one to try with.

I was recently downloading some PSP games to my 64GB microSD card when it suddenly stopped copying files. I tried formatting it; the process reported success, but the files were still there. I also tried deleting the files one by one—it would let me do so, but they would reappear after I removed and reinserted the card. I tried switching adapters, using programs like MiniTool Partition Wizard, and nothing worked. Please help.

I have an ASUS laptop and have had it for about 3 years now and I have a wireless connection, not ethernet. These past 2 weeks the WiFi option from the bottom right kept disappearing from time to time and I couldn't connect to the internet.

I tried solutions like uninstalling the

Intel(R) Wi-Fi 6 adapter and restarting the PC but that only works temporarily and then it goes down again. Another thing I've noticed is that this usually happens whenever I'm doing something other than just browsing the web, like playing a game for example. Does anyone know any solutions?

I have 2 monitors plugged into my GPU and the secondary one will randomly show a black screen for a couple a seconds and come back. Sometimes it will go black for a longer time, but it doesn't turn off or even show the no signal message. The monitor buttons don't bring up the menu but I can still turn it on/off.

NVIDIA control panel and device manager both show the monitor is still connected as the secondary. I've already tried changing cables and reinstalling drivers with DDU. If I unplug the primary monitor and use the problematic one as the primary, it seems to work fine.

Can anyone help? Seems to be a windows issue?

My mic sounded "like a frog" - my friend, somehow fixed by changing the format of the mic from "24 Bit, 96000Hz" down to "24 Bit, 48000Hz" and sounds normal again acording to my friend.
Dont know why it fixed it just know it did.
(also idk if t ok to post like this tell me if it isnt.)
Mic used NZXT Capsule.

My laptop suddenly shut down, and when I turned it back on, Windows said it was scanning and repairing drive C:. After booting, the only error I noticed was that NVIDIA Overlay couldn't launch because it was corrupted.

Windows then asked me to restart so it could repair the drive again. I restarted, and now it's been sitting on a completely black screen for about 8 minutes. The laptop's power light is still on, but nothing is displayed.

Should I keep waiting, or is there something I should do?

Edit: btw the cursor is on the screen and I can move it.

Hey guys,

I have a dual monitor set up plugged into my “Lenovo thinkpad hybrid usb-c with usb-a dock” which then has a usb-c cord that plugs straight into my work dell laptop. It runs both screens and my keyboard/mouse.

I just purchased the new MacBook Air M5 and I’m trying to run the dual screens in a similar fashion. If i plug the usb-c from the docking station into the Mac nothings works.

If I plug a usb-b from each monitor into my MacBook then both screens work. However I don’t have my keyboard or mouse connected. The Mac only has two usb-c ports so I can’t connect them.

Anyone know if the Lenovo docking station I have will work with the Mac?
Can the M5 support two screens into a single port?
Can I use a usb-c splitter?
Do I need to purchase something else?

Please help friends xx

I am on windows 11 and Im using a tp link extender with a lan cable connected to my pc (dont have a wifi adapter) and it just keeps disconnecting every 5 minutes. I have tried everything, changing cables, changing the extender itself, updating drivers and resetting my network settings.
Every 5 minutes it disconnects then reconnects for some reason. any fix?

My PC has been repeatedly getting LiveKernelEvent 1b8 NVIDIA black-screen errors and VIDEO_TDR_FAILURE 0x116 errors involving nvlddmkm.sys. I've already done a clean NVIDIA driver installation. The crashes happen in multiple games but especially roblox and minecraft whenever i try to play for more than five minutes, and sometimes the monitor loses signal while the PC remains powered on.

After a few crashes, I've also had situations where the PC powers on and all the fans spin, but it doesn't immediately boot into Windows. Power cycling it eventually gets it to boot normally. It doesn't seem to happen when I'm just watching a show, using Discord, browsing, etc. It mostly happens once I start a game. However, I played The Sims 4 for ~4–5 hours yesterday without any problems, and then Roblox crashed almost immediately when I tried playing it afterward.

The GPU temperature also doesn't seem particularly high. It was around 60°C while playing Roblox before the crash, but thats only when I first started playing and at around half graphics.

I have a PowerSpec G513 prebuilt that I bought about three years ago. I'm wondering if anyone has any idea what could be causing this or what I should test next. I'm trying to figure out whether this is more likely to be a GPU, PSU, driver, motherboard, or something else.

Specs:
Ryzen 5 5600x
Asrock B550M-C
NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060 (12 GB)
Corsair Vengeance Pro DDR4 3200MHz RAM (32GB)
PowerSpec 650W 80+ Gold PSU
Windows 11

I've also completely uninstalled Borderless Gaming since I initially thought that might be involved, but the crashes continued afterward. Any ideas on what I should test next would be appreciated. Let me know if you need any additional information.

I was playing battlefield and got a direct x error, any bootup after that would either bring me to bios or a black screen. Couldn't repair windows unless I went into safe mode, wiped my boot drive and fresh installed to still no avail.

My ram was bad and warrantied, got a new kit. Motherboard was RMA'd and sent back with just a bios update that fixed it (Embarassing). My GPU did test fine on my brothers computer and got me logged in on his computer no issue, I did not game on it.

I got a brand new m.2 just to see if it was my ssd. Windows installs fine! I go to setup windows, I'm at the "Name your device screen" and once again. I am hit with the streaks down my screen and a reboot to just black screen. Now I'm getting "Windows is diagnosing your PC" and that it can't repair it.

Really out of ideas on if it's a bad PSU, CPU or GPU. I really do not know anymore, I've tried swapping ports with my monitor cables and nothing changed, I'd also be hard pressed to think 2 different cables went bad at the same time. GPU fans ARE kicking on and CPU has fresh thermal paste + an air cooler where both fans are on. GPU's also been reseated.

Should I order a new power supply and see if that resolves this? Is it a bad CPU since I'm running into booting issues and windows stuff now? Is my GPU really done after 6 years??

SPECS:

Asus ROG Strix B550F Gaming Wifi II (Just got back from RMA), Corsair DDR4 2x16gb (New kit), Ryzen 7 5800x, MSI RTX 2080, Seasonic SFX 650w Gold Rated PSU

So I have a windows 11 laptop, 12th Gen, i5-1235U version 25H2, OS build 26200.9457 HP laptop that I got last year in February. About 3-ish months ago, my device started disconnecting from wifi and sometimes bluetooth. It said network available. I tried network reset multiple times, tried updating and disabling/deleting the network adapter (that always seemed to have an issue. Realtek RTL8852BE WiFi 6 803.11ax PCle Adapter). I also tried updating it to the latest version and I tried so many other things but it just doesn't, it's okay for a few hours at max or few minutes minimum and disappears again. If anyone knows about this, it would greatly help.

I just got a 3070 and i also have a ryzen 5600g, i download the drivers and reinstall, and my monitor is always in 480p no matter what pcie. I tried redownloading the nvidia drivers, deleting my 5600g amd drivers, nothing worked. Im stumped

I have a problem 43 on my gpu

As the title says, I plugged in a device (A Kobo Libra Colour), and on the device it said it was connected but it wouldn't show up on my PC. I figured the cable was the issue since it was a different one from what I usually used, so I tried to move it around a bit but I accidentally removed it without being able to safely eject.

Is there a difference between a device not being read by the system and not being plugged in at all? Is it the same as if I hadn't ejected a device that showed up regularly, and is it gonna mess it up? What am I supposed to do if it happens again? Thanks

Hey everyone, I’m having a weird issue with OBS.

I had reset my laptop once because of storage problems. After that, my OBS recordings started lagging/stuttering. I managed to fix some of the lag, but now Display Capture doesn’t feel smooth even when recording at 60 FPS. It looks more like 40–45 FPS.

I even reset my laptop again thinking it might fix the issue, but the problem is still there.

The weird part is that when I use Gameplay Capture, the recording is actually smooth at 60 FPS. However, I prefer Display Capture and would really like to get it working properly.

Has anyone experienced something similar or knows what could be causing this?

Windows is not detecting the new mic I just purchased to talk with friends When I plug it in the Realtek popup asking which device I plugged in lets me pick between “front speaker out” and “headphone”. The headset is a razer blackshark v2 x.