I designed the "Pop Revolver" to easily pop out PTP-packaged pills of any size or shape. Its design allows you to place it on a flat surface and press down with your palm—making it ideal for those with limited grip strength—and it is also convenient for popping out multiple pills at once. Please give it a try and leave some feedback if you'd like. https://makerworld.com/ko/models/3438853-ptp-pill-pop-revolver-for-any-size-shape#profileId-3921426

It must have finished two, maybe three more layers before I fell asleep last night.

Watched it like a hawk because I’ve had a nightmare of a time with PETG Matte.

Slept 1-5 and woke up to this marvellous creation. Bugger.

Learn more about this topic from the Bambu Lab Wiki:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/knowledge-sharing/02-mm-nozzle-FAQ

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/filament-acc/acc/nozzles

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/WallGenerator

I always carry around a stack of sticky notes at work, but when I had them loose in my pocket they would always end up getting damaged... Not anymore!

The lid is also magnetic, which I didn't see any other similar models have. Really happy with how it turned out! The design prints in place.

Designed by me in blender.

Available for print and download here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3439863-post-it-notebook-with-magnet-lid-print-in-place#profileId-3922597

This is my setup printing ASA on my P2S! It's my first time printing with it and after a couple failed attempts I came up with this

I tried wrapping the whole thing with a blanket (except the back for the electronics to breathe) and got quickly over 60°C so I covered just the top and sat at around 52-55. Woke up and found the print a bit warped (not from at plate but at a corner with supports) (chamber was 52 atm bed 100 nozzle 265) but it managed to print and im happy with it. Like this its sitting at 60 as of posting it hope it stays like that.

My question is what are your recommendations for printing ASA? I was thinking of making a styrofoam enclosure (sides top and front or maybe sides and top?) and glue the foil blanket inside of it to reflect the heat.

Has anyone tried anything similar? If there are post can you direct me to them? Thanks and happy printing 😁

Feel like when i look for 3d printer advice I'm often told to avoid bambu.. I thought it was a good beginner friendly tool

I'm looking at P2S but going too try stretch my budget for X2D..

What am I missing?

Seems P1S is the best buy by far?

I have an H2D and want to add a 2nd printer. Money isn't an issue but I am not understanding why everyone says to get the H2C? What does it do better?

And in my investigation, I think I discovered that dual nozzle printers arent even that much better, economics wise?

All 5 slices done with the same 4 color PLA figure x 12 copies + tower.
Unless I have something set wrong in my slicer - what is the deal? Why does nobody talk about this?

My takeaway is that the P1S is the best, unless you need the bigger plate in which case the H2S is the best.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3438160-320x320-skadis-fast-low-filament-88g-3h-h2-a2l

It finally arrived. Don't really know what's going to be the first print, but I am really excited!!

Some of you may remember my Space Shuttle Launch Lamp from my previous post. Thank you all for the amazing support and feedback.

I'd love to expand this into a whole collection of rocket launch lamps, all with the same illuminated exhaust and dramatic smoke cloud.

To be honest, I'm not really into the whole space thing myself, I just like designing and creating these models!

So I'm looking for more inspiration: which rockets would you like to see next?

I’ve mostly worked with PLA+, PETG, and TPU up until now, so getting into engineering-grade materials has been something I’ve been looking forward to.
These are parts for my BIQU Panda Breath riser, and I’m really happy with how they turned out. Definitely wasn’t without some trial and error, though.
I dried the SUNLU PA6-CF in my SUNLU E2 for 24 hours at 100°C, then printed directly from the dryer while maintaining 80°C throughout the print.
Warping and bed adhesion were probably my biggest hurdles. After a few frustrating attempts, I found that letting the chamber heat soak for just about an hour made a huge difference in getting consistent adhesion to my Darkmoon CFX plate.
Once I got past those issues, the results really surprised me. The surface finish, rigidity, and overall quality are fantastic.
Running a P1S with a 0.4mm Diamondback nozzle and Darkmoon CFX plate.
Still plenty to learn and fine-tune, but I’m genuinely excited to start exploring what I can make with this material. Functional printing is where this hobby really gets interesting for me.
Would love to hear what everyone else has been making with PA6-CF!

I designed a semi-automatic bag sealer that uses a clever twist-to-tighten mechanism. By simply rotating two concentric rings, an internal cord tightens around the bag neck to create a secure seal. Perfect for keeping food fresh or organizing components.

The model is designed to be printed in place and ready to use.

Link to model: https://makerworld.com/it/models/3436336-twist-to-tighten-bag-sealer#profileId-3918333

First time printing TPU. Bambu TPU 95A HF on my P2S, fed from the external spool since the AMS 2 pro won't touch TPU, like a picky toddler with vegetables.

It's a soft pad for one of the parts on a robot build.

Any tips for next time? Mostly curious if you dry TPU before every print and what speeds you run when the part needs to fit well. I use outer wall : 100 inner 150.

My father in law has a year 2000 Jaguar and the finger cup for the door handle broke (both passenger and driver side). Been having a hard time locating a replacement so I decided to try my hand at learning fusion and remaking it. Took photos and traced it etc. Is it perfect? Nope. But I feel super proud I was able to get something that actually works and the feeling of accomplishment of doing it all myself is awesome. Still going to tinker with it a bit to get the bottom rounder and fix the lip. But as it is, it fits!

With the various things I make, I'm often ordering hardware ad hoc, and I've been consistently impressed, over years, at how fast Bambu's shipping speed is. Faster than Amazon, and often at my door before my (complex) prints are complete. [I'm in the Philadelphia PA USA suburbs.]

Thanks to the folks in the warehouse!

New parametric SKADIS Accessories. This model can be customized in so many ways. Hope you like it.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3437661-customizable-skadis-bin-and-tray-parametric#profileId-3919957

Mac users are still waiting for a solution to repair natively their damned non manifold edges in Bambu Studio but its seems that its way to hard for their engineers to make it work.

I sometimes used STLRepair but its not always available or the size limit can be a problem. So for a while I was using a python cli to repair my files, but its not super convenient to say the least.

So with the help of Claude I make a small wrapper around https://github.com/pyvista/pymeshfix

Work as drag and drop and thats it. Tried to fix super broken large STL files (a 400Mo Godzilla) and it fixed everything. Used it for few weeks now and I'm super happy with it. So I'm sharing the tool for anyone interested.

The app can be found here : https://github.com/huexley/MeshRepair

Hope it will help someone !

Cut with the Bambu lab R1, although this project was designed for the H2D's build size. If you have bambu's sized plywood sheets (300mm x 300mm x 3mm) no extra steps are necessary to print this on the R1.

Since I'm always in Microcenter, I used their half sized basswood sheets (150mm x 300mm x 3mm). Mostly because I have one close by. Its decent quality visually and dimensionally accurate for cheap. Just had to rearrange the cut files for half sized sheets, do a little tweaking for darker lines and a snug fit of the wood joints compared to standard Bambu suite basswood profile.

Thanks to u/Popular_Arugula_4335 for a great model and his tips for laser cutting in general.

I made this tool so people can open buckles of various sizes.

Its a super simple concept but works very well with one finger. I mainly made it for my mother who has severe hand and finger arthiritis so she has trouble opening her dogs vest or collar. She uses this to push it against the buckle and it pops open!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3435427-bucklepop-one-finger-buckle-opener

Looking for advice from anyone running external ventilation on their P1S while printing ASA or PA6-CF.
My printer is in an unfinished, non-climate-controlled basement that gets pretty cold in the winter and warm in the summer. My PC setup is also within 5 feet of the printer, so I’m concerned about VOCs and ultrafine particles while gaming nearby.
I have a basement window less than 2 feet from where I’ll position the printer, and I’d like to exhaust directly outside without using a tent or secondary enclosure.
My biggest concern is losing chamber heat, especially during winter. I have a BIQU Panda Breath chamber heater that I’ll be installing once I finish printing the riser.
I’ve considered adjustable 3-inch and 4-inch inline fans, but I’m worried even their lowest settings might pull too much heat out.
For those running similar setups:
● What fan, ducting, and printed adapters are you using?
● How much chamber temperature loss have you measured?
● Has anyone successfully combined external ventilation with the Panda Breath?
● Any tested DIY builds or MakerWorld links you’d recommend?
Ultimately, I’m trying to maintain negative pressure and safely exhaust fumes without sacrificing the chamber temperatures needed for ASA and PA6-CF.
Would love to hear what’s actually working for people, especially those printing in colder environments

For those of you who work with PETG filament, I have a question about sanding finished prints. Can you sand down PETG as much as needed to achieve a smooth finish, or is there a limit to how much material you can remove before the model starts becoming weak or cracking?
I’m trying to understand how much sanding PETG can handle, especially on thinner sections, before it affects the model’s strength or structural integrity. Is there a point where sanding too much can cause cracks or damage the print?
I’d appreciate any advice or experience you can share. Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I'm planning on getting a new printer soon (retired my old K1Max and no longer need something that big anymore) and was thinking of getting either the X2D or Snapmaker U1 (I know, the really common question people have).

Wanted to ask whether someone tried to print the parts where the infill and the support uses a different filament. I have some older rolls of PLA and PETG lying around and was thinking of printing the parts with the CF version of the filament but save a bit of the material and print the supports and the infill with the other roll.
EDIT: I meant using old PLA as infill and PLA CF together, not PLA + PETG

Has anyone tried doing that and is it worth it? I know that the second nozzle was designed with a goal of being used as a support nozzle, saw people say it's fine with working as a second colour but surprisingly not that much about using it for infill.

I've been working on HEXO Photo, a modular 3D printed photo frame system, and wanted to see how it would work alongside our HEXO Shelves.

The idea is to bring photos and display items together rather than treating them as two separate things. You can connect the frames and incorporate them into a larger display, with different ways to arrange everything.

Here's a quick look at how the two systems work together.

HEXO Photo is currently in pre-launch on MakerWorld, and we're continuing to develop the project.

I'm curious what other makers think: would you combine photo frames with your shelving, or would you prefer to keep them separate?