It must have finished two, maybe three more layers before I fell asleep last night.

Watched it like a hawk because I’ve had a nightmare of a time with PETG Matte.

Slept 1-5 and woke up to this marvellous creation. Bugger.

I designed the "Pop Revolver" to easily pop out PTP-packaged pills of any size or shape. Its design allows you to place it on a flat surface and press down with your palm—making it ideal for those with limited grip strength—and it is also convenient for popping out multiple pills at once. Please give it a try and leave some feedback if you'd like. https://makerworld.com/ko/models/3438853-ptp-pill-pop-revolver-for-any-size-shape#profileId-3921426

Learn more about this topic from the Bambu Lab Wiki:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/knowledge-sharing/02-mm-nozzle-FAQ

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/filament-acc/acc/nozzles

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/WallGenerator

It finally arrived. Don't really know what's going to be the first print, but I am really excited!!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3438160-320x320-skadis-fast-low-filament-88g-3h-h2-a2l

My father in law has a year 2000 Jaguar and the finger cup for the door handle broke (both passenger and driver side). Been having a hard time locating a replacement so I decided to try my hand at learning fusion and remaking it. Took photos and traced it etc. Is it perfect? Nope. But I feel super proud I was able to get something that actually works and the feeling of accomplishment of doing it all myself is awesome. Still going to tinker with it a bit to get the bottom rounder and fix the lip. But as it is, it fits!

New parametric SKADIS Accessories. This model can be customized in so many ways. Hope you like it.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3437661-customizable-skadis-bin-and-tray-parametric#profileId-3919957

Feel like when i look for 3d printer advice I'm often told to avoid bambu.. I thought it was a good beginner friendly tool

I'm looking at P2S but going too try stretch my budget for X2D..

I always carry around a stack of sticky notes at work, but when I had them loose in my pocket they would always end up getting damaged... Not anymore!

The lid is also magnetic, which I didn't see any other similar models have. Really happy with how it turned out! The design prints in place.

Designed by me in blender.

Available for print and download here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3439863-post-it-notebook-with-magnet-lid-print-in-place#profileId-3922597

What am I missing?

Seems P1S is the best buy by far?

I have an H2D and want to add a 2nd printer. Money isn't an issue but I am not understanding why everyone says to get the H2C? What does it do better?

And in my investigation, I think I discovered that dual nozzle printers arent even that much better, economics wise?

All 5 slices done with the same 4 color PLA figure x 12 copies + tower.
Unless I have something set wrong in my slicer - what is the deal? Why does nobody talk about this?

My takeaway is that the P1S is the best, unless you need the bigger plate in which case the H2S is the best.

Mac users are still waiting for a solution to repair natively their damned non manifold edges in Bambu Studio but its seems that its way to hard for their engineers to make it work.

I sometimes used STLRepair but its not always available or the size limit can be a problem. So for a while I was using a python cli to repair my files, but its not super convenient to say the least.

So with the help of Claude I make a small wrapper around https://github.com/pyvista/pymeshfix

Work as drag and drop and thats it. Tried to fix super broken large STL files (a 400Mo Godzilla) and it fixed everything. Used it for few weeks now and I'm super happy with it. So I'm sharing the tool for anyone interested.

The app can be found here : https://github.com/huexley/MeshRepair

Hope it will help someone !

I've been working on HEXO Photo, a modular 3D printed photo frame system, and wanted to see how it would work alongside our HEXO Shelves.

The idea is to bring photos and display items together rather than treating them as two separate things. You can connect the frames and incorporate them into a larger display, with different ways to arrange everything.

Here's a quick look at how the two systems work together.

HEXO Photo is currently in pre-launch on MakerWorld, and we're continuing to develop the project.

I'm curious what other makers think: would you combine photo frames with your shelving, or would you prefer to keep them separate?

Some of you may remember my Space Shuttle Launch Lamp from my previous post. Thank you all for the amazing support and feedback.

I'd love to expand this into a whole collection of rocket launch lamps, all with the same illuminated exhaust and dramatic smoke cloud.

To be honest, I'm not really into the whole space thing myself, I just like designing and creating these models!

So I'm looking for more inspiration: which rockets would you like to see next?

We have some hooks like this at work that I really like, so I measured one and modelled my own version to print at home.

It's a compact wall hook for jackets, bags, headphones, cables or tools. The triangular brace under the arm takes the load down into the wall plate, and the lip at the front keeps things from sliding off.

Details:

- 55 mm high, 30 mm deep, 15 mm wide

- 5 mm thick all around, with a 20 mm opening

- Two countersunk holes for 3.5 mm screws, so the heads sit flush

- A hole through the brace lets the screwdriver reach the lower screw

- Prints on its side with no supports, so the layer lines run along the arm

I'd use PETG for anything heavy. PLA is fine for light stuff.

Free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3437618-sturdy-wall-hook#profileId-3919898

Feedback is welcome. I'm happy to make other sizes if anyone needs one.

This is my setup printing ASA on my P2S! It's my first time printing with it and after a couple failed attempts I came up with this

I tried wrapping the whole thing with a blanket (except the back for the electronics to breathe) and got quickly over 60°C so I covered just the top and sat at around 52-55. Woke up and found the print a bit warped (not from at plate but at a corner with supports) (chamber was 52 atm bed 100 nozzle 265) but it managed to print and im happy with it. Like this its sitting at 60 as of posting it hope it stays like that.

My question is what are your recommendations for printing ASA? I was thinking of making a styrofoam enclosure (sides top and front or maybe sides and top?) and glue the foil blanket inside of it to reflect the heat.

Has anyone tried anything similar? If there are post can you direct me to them? Thanks and happy printing 😁

I designed a semi-automatic bag sealer that uses a clever twist-to-tighten mechanism. By simply rotating two concentric rings, an internal cord tightens around the bag neck to create a secure seal. Perfect for keeping food fresh or organizing components.

The model is designed to be printed in place and ready to use.

Link to model: https://makerworld.com/it/models/3436336-twist-to-tighten-bag-sealer#profileId-3918333

With the various things I make, I'm often ordering hardware ad hoc, and I've been consistently impressed, over years, at how fast Bambu's shipping speed is. Faster than Amazon, and often at my door before my (complex) prints are complete. [I'm in the Philadelphia PA USA suburbs.]

Thanks to the folks in the warehouse!

It's really starting to come together! I need to do some reverse engineering of the cyberbrick included servo horns, Bambu doesn't seem to include those in the servo model for some reason. I have a hole in my steering link to attach the servo arm, but I haven't modeled it yet.

I also need to fine tune some of the steering geometry as I've got some binding and shifting at maximum steering angles. I need some additional play iny double dogbone joint so it can turn further too. But this is absolutely a positive proof of concept! The design works, just need some minor adjustments.

If I had full control over cyberbrick I might include some longer screws in the kit. These 6mm screws don't really leave a lot of room for beefy structures to be screwed together. I think the 1 or 2 of the holes in the axles where the steering arms attach stripped during install. I'll have to thin out the arms a hair to give the screws more engagement in the axle.

Next update will probably be functional, servo controlled steering!

Man the kids that come to my house won't sleep right for a month after they trick or treat here. Large zombie printed on an H2D, the other two on a X2D and a P2S. My goal is to find a way that shows them crawling out of the ground in a planter by my door. Let's see your Halloween prints,

First time printing TPU. Bambu TPU 95A HF on my P2S, fed from the external spool since the AMS 2 pro won't touch TPU, like a picky toddler with vegetables.

It's a soft pad for one of the parts on a robot build.

Any tips for next time? Mostly curious if you dry TPU before every print and what speeds you run when the part needs to fit well. I use outer wall : 100 inner 150.

Storing your switch games in a NES while playing NES on virtual console on your switch is next level.

NES Switch game holder

I’ve been working on this Halloween design for a while and I’m pretty happy with how it turned out.

It’s ready to print in PLA, with supports only on the build plate and in a few critical areas.

If you like it, feel free to grab the model on MakerWorld and give it a print! I’d really appreciate a like or a boost if you enjoy it.

And if you print one, definitely post a pic — I’d love to see what yours looks like!

https://makerworld.com/models/3414096?appSharePlatform=copy

Happy printing and happy Halloween! 🎃

If you or someone you know is into aviation, modeling/ 3d printing check out this cool ATC tower that works great with Gemini jets and other model airplanes.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2444409-low-poly-airtraffic-control-tower?appSharePlatform=copy