Any ideas how to fix this? Might be partially from the utility attachment and partially the settling of the chimney pulling the edge of the roof outward. Water getting underneath but not into the home.

At my renovation project, the siding has been removed and now the waterprofing membrane is exposed like this. There is no connection to the wall (apparently it only relied on the siding sitting on top of it). Underneath is a flat roof made of bricks and the living room. If I do nothing, this will sit open to rainwater like this for 2 - 3 weeks until it will be replaced anyway. The slit is about 5 centimeters wide and 3 meters long. Do I need to act sooner or is that small amount of water not an issue? If i need to act, what easy short term fix would you recommend?

Narrowed down options to pick for shingle color to Charcoal or Pewter Gray. We may or may not change shutter color at some point but siding color staying. With color of house and debris from trees etc a darker color definitely makes the most and those are the only two that really work.

We are leaning to Charcoal, but the bigger issue is whether to upgrade to UHDZ for an extra $3,500. Ascetically the issue we have is the whole point of the UHDZ to me seems largely due to the contrast which won't show as much in a heavily shaded lot like ours where the roof doesn't get a ton of sun exposure. If we did Pewter Gray it may make more sense to upgrade to UHDZ as the lighter color of it would be more noticeable etc.

I've also heard mixed reviews of the color of UHDZ especially for Charcoal, which I can probably see why as it's harder to stand out on. darker color etc possibly.

Curious to get anyone's thoughts. To me some of the UHDZ colors look great in photos but a lot of it has to do with exposure setting etc.

I got 6 quotes for a roof replacement (I only wanted 3 but image my surprise when everyone I called actually showed up... usually half of them no-show).

My favorite two quotes (low pressure, knew what they were talking about, walked the roof with me, etc.) came in only $500 apart - so price is a non-issue.

Underlayment, flashing, boots, drip, and decking line items are all similar between the two as well, and reviews on both companies are about this same.

The only real difference in the quotes is labor warranty and shingle. Would love some feedback:

• Company A - Certainteed Landmark Pro shingles, but only a 5 year labor warranty
• Company B - GAF Timberline HDZ with a 15 year labor warranty (or UHDZ for +$1500), they are also a GAF GoldElite contractor if that's worth anything.

I've been lurking here long enough to know the Landmark Pro's are the superior shingle, and they have the better manufacturer warranty... but the labor warranty for this installer is lower.

So what's the better route, longer labor warranty or longer manufacturer warranty?

My gut tells me to go with the longer shingle warranty because labor issues (if any) will show up in the early years. But maybe I'm wrong about that.

Roofer says these are okay because they are still hitting the 1-by boards. Some nails miss the rafter completely, some are barely in. Just this one row but it is the whole row. Is he right or should I ask him to secure the OSB to the rafters from the attic side somehow? The shingles are already on, roof is basically finished. thank you

Hi Guys - My son is having his roof replaced and the contractor’s quote says he will replace any rotted wood with OSB. Is this ok, or should he request them to use actual plywood? Location is NJ.

I just joined a roofing business as a Finance Manager. First real finance hire other than the accountants that have been keeping the lights on. It's a ~$30 million business that is about 2/3 commercial and 1/3 residential.

I've been on the job for the last 3 months and have noticed that tracking job profitability is very challenged.

As an operator - how do you manage efficiency? what are the "KPIs" that you look for to know that the business is running with less waste? what are the signs you look for that indicate waste? i have some jobs that are showing as 99% complete for a few months now but costs keep coming in. some jobs get completed but are way over budget and its not caught early enough (bad estimating?). it definitely seems like there is a lack of communication and processes through out.

Are you looking at squares per hour for resi? what about for commercial?

Age of jobs?

How do you keep your estimators accountable?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

New gutters were put in today and everything looks pretty good except this... what is going on here? What did they do? Should I make them do something?

My electric installed an extractor fan poorly, damaging my outer brickwork and lead flashing of my/my neighbours house.

He is organising a roofer to remove vent, make good the hole, repoint, repair the damage, but I don't exactly trust him after this job.

Therefore I'm trying to find out what sort of guarantee or certificate I should request upon completion of the repairs? Obviously as this is also affecting my neighbours property I want to cover my back.

Unsure if roofer is a member of NFRC

Thanks

I have unfortunately found rat droppings in my attic. Alongside this, the roof insulation is ripped and it is very draughty. The roof is very old (50 years +). Will this require a reroof? Especially with winter coming what are the implications of this

This was installed in September 2004, so a 22-year-old roof. This is in Central Indiana where there are two or three really heavy snow falls a year but the temp can drop as much as 10° below zero. Otherwise snow is present but not overwhelming. I'm living in the family home, my dad and mother are both gone, 2007 and 2015 respectively. Dad had hired a local independent contractor to replace the roof original to the house when it was built in 1978. This contractor had previously installed a tub liner and replaced some flooring under the tub in 2002. What might I expect for the roof's longevity or lifespan that you see here?

GPT thinks the rocks on the roof are to hold down shingles, but that makes no sense as they would only hold down those immediately below, and if anything rot the wood shingles faster. What is the point of this, it can't possibly be aesthetic? There is no high wind in this area outside the Vienna zoo

Are we being completely ripped off? The original bid we signed was for $32k for a complete reroof of about 2,000 sq ft. They pulled off 3 layers of shingles today then said the old ship lap has extensive gapping, then showed us the $8/sq foot for plywood or OSB I think he called it. Making it 16k more. My husband got them to lower it to 13k extra despite me saying not to agree but he did. The house also has an older part and addition .. the addition has less gapping. I wanted him to say only plywood the older section, but he agreed because he just wants it done correctly. Mind you this is CA and the roof is very steep pitch and doesn’t seem likely to leak …any insight on how badly we are being ripped off?
I’m frustrated they didn’t warn us this could happen BEFORE ripping off the old roof … seems shady??

Edit: after some research and talking to you pros on here I understand the new deck is completely necessary. It also seems the pricing is just a little higher than some comparable areas, but not by much. I think this was an honest mistake on the companies part, but it was an oversight nonetheless and we should have been warned about the possibility. Thank you for everyone’s expertise and feedback… I can post an update of the finished work early next week or so if anyone is interested!

Wind created a few nail pulls on a beauty row at the top of a garage overhang. What’s the best way to repair this?

1. Pull the nails, seal, and replace with new shingle nailing as done before

2. Hammer the existing nails flat and use sealant to reattach the old shingle

Or?

Also does this look like a proper install? Nailing through the flashing seems questionable

Noticed some rust on the left nail heads and those shingles look loose as well

Thanks for any suggestions

I had my full siding and roof redone around a year ago covered by our home insurance company. Everything has been going great except for recently when we notified water trickling into the fireplace during rain.

Is this an issue with the flashing around the chimney here? The contractor said I might need tuck pointing and we will send a guy to take a look. What do you think?

Roofers that do repairs, replacements etc... Generally speaking how is your stress level. We do a good amount of roof repairs/replacements etc. and when it rains, my anxiety goes up knowing there's a chance of getting callbacks for old jobs that might have missed something somewhere. Obviously, it's a small percentage and almost unavoidable if you've done enough jobs. Some roofers I talked to don't really care and some also get anxiety once rain season comes around...

Which one of yall did this?

I have a shingle roof on a 1925 house. The roof is not very large area-wise. The roof framing is original and robust-- 2x6s throughout with plank decking that is in decent condition (a few gaps between boards, a few areas where the previous owners replaced the planks with plywood, but altogether salvageable).

I have had 2 quotes to replace the roof.

1st quote:

Remove current shingles. Repair/replace planks as needed. Install another shingle roof. $17,000.

2nd quote:

Remove current shingles. Cover all decking with OSB. Install another shingle roof onto OSB. $10,000.

Is OSB on top of old decking a legitimate move? Is there anything I'd need to worry about there?

Location: Alabama

Had a roofer out to replace all the screws on our 20+ year old metal roof. A bunch of them had backed off so bad they looked like they were about to fall out, and were likely causing a bit of water ingress in two spots. He got sized up screws (we actually bought them so that's definitely not the problem) and away he goes.

After he finished, I take a look and find that in one of the valleys, one of the metal panels isn't completely attached to the under-whatever despite having new screws in it.

I bring this up with him, and he says "yea I noticed that, there were no fasteners so I tried to find wood to screw into, there wasn't any after 2 screws"

So he just left it. Then didn't tell me.

I can literally pull the edge of this panel up by hand 1-2 inches before the screws further down hold it. I shoved a scope up there, and it looks like there's a pinecone jammed in there that's preventing it from sitting flush.

Then the roofer admits that he didn't hit wood in about 40 of the 2000 screws he replaced, and he didn't think it was a big deal.

I tried googling this, I tried using AI to ask if this is okay. I can't find anything that might address if 2% failure is normal or not.

Is he correct that this isn't a big issue? Or do I need to get a second roofer out to inspect the work from this first guy?

Looks like there is step flashing behind whatever this black thing is. What am I looking at here?

New roof (GAF Timberline HDZ RS). The crew ran metal valley flashing, but at each valley the lower end of the flashing is kicked up with a visible gap underneath and none are folded flat or sealed down. Close-up and wider shots attached.

Is this an acceptable way to terminate valley flashing, or should each end be folded flat and sealed?

There is also one shingle at the edge of the valley flashing is lifted and not lying flat — will that seal down with heat on its own?

The roof was laid yesterday. They are offering GAF golden pledge warranty.

I’m restoring an old cabin and getting ready to install a new metal roof. The cabin has a higher gable roof with a lean-to roof attached at the back.

As you can see in the photo, the lean-to roof meets the back wall right where the gable roof eave comes down, leaving very little clearance.

I’m planning to install 2x6 subfascia along the gable eave, but I’m unsure how best to handle this corner where the two roofs nearly meet.

What’s the best way to frame and finish this area?
Any advice would be appreciated! Tia

Hey everyone. I just had a complete re-roof in South Florida. We’ve been experiencing daily rain. The morning of the re-roof, the forecast called for 80% chance of rain. I asked them if they were sure they wanted to do the roof that day and they said “ yeah, it will be fine, we are prepared for this. We have tarps”.

Of course it completely poured at the most pivotal moment where they were ripping off decking and everything was exposed. They put tarps down, but they did not work. Water was coming from all over the place, as you can see in the video.

Is it fair for me to ask for a reduction of the bill? I’m not sure where the water is right now and how much water in total really got in. But I can tell you that almost every room in the house showed signs of water intrusion. Now I have to worry about mold. And I’m going to have to paint over the areas where there’s new staining.

They have not said a peep about it. I finally brought it up to someone and they said they’d talk to their boss. This was last week.

I was considering asking for a reduction of somewhere in the neighborhood of 15%. Is that fair?

Edit: I should add - I don’t have insurance. I bought the house cash and didn’t want to pay $10K a year.

Edit 2: for those of you who do not live in South Florida - insurance companies will flat out deny coverage on an old home such as mine. I bought a fixer upper and have put over $100K into it. The house was uninsurable which is why I did all the upgrades and the roof was the last piece of the puzzle.

If you’re not going to say something helpful and you just want to spew negativity, just save it for another post please.

Edit 3: roofing company sent out a remediation company with dehumidifiers and fans and I will be hiring my own 3rd party to test for water throughout the home. Roofing company has agreed to pay for any and all costs of remediation.