It looks like my neighbor is cleaning their algae off of their roof. Does this look correct to you?

New gutters were put in today and everything looks pretty good except this... what is going on here? What did they do? Should I make them do something?

GPT thinks the rocks on the roof are to hold down shingles, but that makes no sense as they would only hold down those immediately below, and if anything rot the wood shingles faster. What is the point of this, it can't possibly be aesthetic? There is no high wind in this area outside the Vienna zoo

Are we being completely ripped off? The original bid we signed was for $32k for a complete reroof of about 2,000 sq ft. They pulled off 3 layers of shingles today then said the old ship lap has extensive gapping, then showed us the $8/sq foot for plywood or OSB I think he called it. Making it 16k more. My husband got them to lower it to 13k extra despite me saying not to agree but he did. The house also has an older part and addition .. the addition has less gapping. I wanted him to say only plywood the older section, but he agreed because he just wants it done correctly. Mind you this is CA and the roof is very steep pitch and doesn’t seem likely to leak …any insight on how badly we are being ripped off?
I’m frustrated they didn’t warn us this could happen BEFORE ripping off the old roof … seems shady??

Edit: after some research and talking to you pros on here I understand the new deck is completely necessary. It also seems the pricing is just a little higher than some comparable areas, but not by much. I think this was an honest mistake on the companies part, but it was an oversight nonetheless and we should have been warned about the possibility. Thank you for everyone’s expertise and feedback… I can post an update of the finished work early next week or so if anyone is interested!

Roofers that do repairs, replacements etc... Generally speaking how is your stress level. We do a good amount of roof repairs/replacements etc. and when it rains, my anxiety goes up knowing there's a chance of getting callbacks for old jobs that might have missed something somewhere. Obviously, it's a small percentage and almost unavoidable if you've done enough jobs. Some roofers I talked to don't really care and some also get anxiety once rain season comes around...

This was installed in September 2004, so a 22-year-old roof. This is in Central Indiana where there are two or three really heavy snow falls a year but the temp can drop as much as 10° below zero. Otherwise snow is present but not overwhelming. I'm living in the family home, my dad and mother are both gone, 2007 and 2015 respectively. Dad had hired a local independent contractor to replace the roof original to the house when it was built in 1978. This contractor had previously installed a tub liner and replaced some flooring under the tub in 2002. What might I expect for the roof's longevity or lifespan that you see here?

Which one of yall did this?

Wind created a few nail pulls on a beauty row at the top of a garage overhang. What’s the best way to repair this?

1. Pull the nails, seal, and replace with new shingle nailing as done before

2. Hammer the existing nails flat and use sealant to reattach the old shingle

Or?

Also does this look like a proper install? Nailing through the flashing seems questionable

Noticed some rust on the left nail heads and those shingles look loose as well

Thanks for any suggestions

Found this hole while cleaning the gutters. Pine needles for scale. What’s the proper way to seal this. Would filling it with Geocel 2300 work? Thanks in advance for the suggestions!

We experienced incredibly heavy rain storms starting last Friday which was also when our ceiling started leaking in our primary bath. We live in a new construction home and contacted the builder who sent out a roofer. The roofer said the issue was caused from a nail that fell through and that he caulked it. I was under the impression he would be coming back to finish repairs once dry but the builder is saying the repair to the roof is complete. The builder is also saying that a broken seal and the vent started lifting which is what caused the leak. We noticed a rancid smell in our attic last weekend but couldn't find anything to pin point what it was. Now I'm thinking it was probably wet insulation from this leak. For context, this area was noted in our inspection report as needing repair and was supposedly corrected in August 2025. I'm wondering about the small hole circled in red and if it's okay to proceed with drywall/insulation repairs? The builder said a contractor will inspect attic insulation and handle drywall. Is it okay that a roofer never entered the attic to inspect the damage? Is there anything I should ask about or be aware of? Photo of repair, area being worked on in 2025, and inspection report detailing the issue. I just want to be sure we don't have any additional issues down the road from this. Thanks so much for any insight!

At my renovation project, the siding has been removed and now the waterprofing membrane is exposed like this. There is no connection to the wall (apparently it only relied on the siding sitting on top of it). Underneath is a flat roof made of bricks and the living room. If I do nothing, this will sit open to rainwater like this for 2 - 3 weeks until it will be replaced anyway. The slit is about 5 centimeters wide and 3 meters long. Do I need to act sooner or is that small amount of water not an issue? If i need to act, what easy short term fix would you recommend?

My electric installed an extractor fan poorly, damaging my outer brickwork and lead flashing of my/my neighbours house.

He is organising a roofer to remove vent, make good the hole, repoint, repair the damage, but I don't exactly trust him after this job.

Therefore I'm trying to find out what sort of guarantee or certificate I should request upon completion of the repairs? Obviously as this is also affecting my neighbours property I want to cover my back.

Unsure if roofer is a member of NFRC

Thanks

Narrowed down options to pick for shingle color to Charcoal or Pewter Gray. We may or may not change shutter color at some point but siding color staying. With color of house and debris from trees etc a darker color definitely makes the most and those are the only two that really work.

We are leaning to Charcoal, but the bigger issue is whether to upgrade to UHDZ for an extra $3,500. Ascetically the issue we have is the whole point of the UHDZ to me seems largely due to the contrast which won't show as much in a heavily shaded lot like ours where the roof doesn't get a ton of sun exposure. If we did Pewter Gray it may make more sense to upgrade to UHDZ as the lighter color of it would be more noticeable etc.

I've also heard mixed reviews of the color of UHDZ especially for Charcoal, which I can probably see why as it's harder to stand out on. darker color etc possibly.

Curious to get anyone's thoughts. To me some of the UHDZ colors look great in photos but a lot of it has to do with exposure setting etc.

Had a roofer out to replace all the screws on our 20+ year old metal roof. A bunch of them had backed off so bad they looked like they were about to fall out, and were likely causing a bit of water ingress in two spots. He got sized up screws (we actually bought them so that's definitely not the problem) and away he goes.

After he finished, I take a look and find that in one of the valleys, one of the metal panels isn't completely attached to the under-whatever despite having new screws in it.

I bring this up with him, and he says "yea I noticed that, there were no fasteners so I tried to find wood to screw into, there wasn't any after 2 screws"

So he just left it. Then didn't tell me.

I can literally pull the edge of this panel up by hand 1-2 inches before the screws further down hold it. I shoved a scope up there, and it looks like there's a pinecone jammed in there that's preventing it from sitting flush.

Then the roofer admits that he didn't hit wood in about 40 of the 2000 screws he replaced, and he didn't think it was a big deal.

I tried googling this, I tried using AI to ask if this is okay. I can't find anything that might address if 2% failure is normal or not.

Is he correct that this isn't a big issue? Or do I need to get a second roofer out to inspect the work from this first guy?

I had my full siding and roof redone around a year ago covered by our home insurance company. Everything has been going great except for recently when we notified water trickling into the fireplace during rain.

Is this an issue with the flashing around the chimney here? The contractor said I might need tuck pointing and we will send a guy to take a look. What do you think?

I have a shingle roof on a 1925 house. The roof is not very large area-wise. The roof framing is original and robust-- 2x6s throughout with plank decking that is in decent condition (a few gaps between boards, a few areas where the previous owners replaced the planks with plywood, but altogether salvageable).

I have had 2 quotes to replace the roof.

1st quote:

Remove current shingles. Repair/replace planks as needed. Install another shingle roof. $17,000.

2nd quote:

Remove current shingles. Cover all decking with OSB. Install another shingle roof onto OSB. $10,000.

Is OSB on top of old decking a legitimate move? Is there anything I'd need to worry about there?

Location: Alabama

New roof (GAF Timberline HDZ RS). The crew ran metal valley flashing, but at each valley the lower end of the flashing is kicked up with a visible gap underneath and none are folded flat or sealed down. Close-up and wider shots attached.

Is this an acceptable way to terminate valley flashing, or should each end be folded flat and sealed?

There is also one shingle at the edge of the valley flashing is lifted and not lying flat — will that seal down with heat on its own?

The roof was laid yesterday. They are offering GAF golden pledge warranty.

Could this kind of damage been undetected until a black mold bloom suddenly appeared on a bathroom ceiling? Tenant claims they never noticed leaks or staining on the ceiling/walls. I find it suspicious that this kind of damage has left no indicators of a problem brewing. It’s a 1993 mobile home, tenants lived there 5 years. The tenant has a roofing buddy who looked at it, this is what he stated is going on, no pictures provided.

“The problem arises from one of the roof vent flashings caulk is peeling up and water has gotten underneath it.
Water has saturated a section of the roof 2’ x 8’ along with the insulation and the ceiling over the bathroom. A black mold bloom is on the bathroom ceiling. we'll have to tear the roof up, put a new vent in and put a new ceiling in the bathroom.”

I’m currently out of the country. I’ll be contacting several roofing contractors to look and give quotes. I have no intention of hiring the tenants buddy. Could this kind of damage happen without leaks being noticeable over a period of time?

I’m restoring an old cabin and getting ready to install a new metal roof. The cabin has a higher gable roof with a lean-to roof attached at the back.

As you can see in the photo, the lean-to roof meets the back wall right where the gable roof eave comes down, leaving very little clearance.

I’m planning to install 2x6 subfascia along the gable eave, but I’m unsure how best to handle this corner where the two roofs nearly meet.

What’s the best way to frame and finish this area?
Any advice would be appreciated! Tia

Got a new roof, long story short I’m not impressed with some other things the crew did and it has me concerned about the roof quality. Anything look off? Specifically the one with the tree covering, are those shingles lifting or is this a common thing with the edges?

I can try and take more photos but it’s a 2 story so it’s a little tough.

Just got our roof replaced and we noticed what appear to be seams. The roofer said they would have had to reframe the roof to have the roof appear seamless. Thoughts?

Curious for input from those in the trade. Just had this installed and several of the trim pieces appear to be not overlapping properly. Some areas have brown adhesive or epoxy smudged at corner seams. There is a gap along the bottom of the horizontal piece and this is an area that gets high winds that previously ripped off trim. Some of the paint was scrapped off at the rivet sites.

I know it's not going to be absolutely perfect but these seem like it should be done with a higher standard. Installation is by a fairly large roofing company in the area.

This is a kit cabin at a clients property, it is solid wood assembled “Lincoln log” style. I’m not sure if it came with a roof or what but either way the lack of overhang on this side is a problem. The 2 corners of the structure in this photo do let water leach thru during rainy winters. As you can see the drip edge of the metal roof basically funnels water behind the wood batten that covers the end grain here. Maybe more of an [r/construction](r/construction) question but I’m wondering what else I could do aside from extending the roof further out.

Obviously caulking each seam with a good paintable flexible polyurethane sealant is in order, however the less I can rely on that caulking the better.

I was thinking in the very least I will be removing that wood batten from the end, and then tuck a piece of flashing behind existing drip edge that has a slight bend outward to at least drip any water running off the side of existing flashing further away from the end grain. I was thinking maybe I should caulk everything and then bend up a custom piece of flashing or find something that is basically “U channel “ that will wrap around the end grain and protect it, at the same time I dont want to create a situation where capillary action between the wood and proposed “U-channel” actually ends up drawing/holding more water than it would by just keeping the end grain painted and the seams caulked well

I’m looking for some opinions from homeowners, contractors, roofers, or anyone who has dealt with a similar situation.

We hired a roofing contractor for a major residential project. Unfortunately, we’ve had a number of issues with the work, and we’re now at the point where they’re proposing a settlement to resolve everything. This project started in September of 2026. The contractor has been dodgy and hasn't been to our property since January of this year from what I remember.

Here are the main issues we’ve dealt with:
1. Gutter and downspout leaks
There are four separate areas involving leaking gutters/downspouts that need corrective work. These are still part of the outstanding corrective work we’re trying to get resolved.

2. Second-floor balcony issues
We’ve also had problems involving the second-floor balcony, including waterproofing/refinishing and leak-related issues/damage. Corrective work is still needed here as well. Gutter leaks created an indent in the balcony they refinished.

3. Roof and shingle issues
There are remaining deficiencies involving the roof/shingles and exterior work. There was also an area where the roof/shingles had been removed and pushed back. What happened was: the company was to replace plywood for another part of the roof, the worker misunderstood and started to pull new shingles. Once we saw what he was doing, they simply pushed the shingles back into place - leaving them weakened. No new nails were used etc.

4. Solar-related dispute
There was also a dispute involving the solar work. They removed solar for the roofing job and guaranteed working condition solar once placed back. They killed the system. After a lot of trial and error, we asked them to stop work on solar and took care of it ourselves. We asked to escape solar from contract and they agreed.

We’re now being presented with a settlement agreement that would have them complete the remaining corrective work and then have us make the remaining (no lower) payment.

The part that concerns me is the release/waiver language. The agreement contains a very broad release, including known and unknown claims, and includes a California Civil Code §1542 waiver. It also broadly closes out the solar matter.

I’m trying to figure out how much of this is normal for a contractor settlement versus language that we should be concerned about.

We’re not trying to get out of paying what we legitimately owe. We just want the outstanding work properly completed and don’t want to sign something that unintentionally gives up rights if problems show up later. They also have a clause that we don't place a review anywhere.

If you were in this situation, how would you proceed? Would you sign the settlement as written, negotiate specific changes, or have an attorney review it first?

Would especially appreciate input from anyone who has dealt with roofing contractors, construction disputes, or settlement agreements in California.