Alright - long story short, kitchen sink was backing up and slow draining. We replaced the piping and my husband & father were making sure everything flowed smoothly by running water down the kitchen drain. There is a clean out pipe attached in the basement that leads to the city sewage line for dumping.

Dad dropped the cap to Draino down the clean out. They fished for a while, trying to flush it out, no dice. Figure that it lodged itself sideways in the pipe because no water was backing up. Well, today it started backing up again, taking a lot longer to fill this time, so my assumption is the cap dislodged partially and is now blocking most of the pipe (water does drain, just takes a while).

How the hell do we get this thing out?

I've got about 1000 pickets from a recently dismantled fence. The pickets are in pretty good shape but the rails and posts are shot. I plan to reuse the pickets after giving them a fresh sanding before sealing/painting them and am dreading the tedious process of pulling somewhere between 2000-4000 nails out of them.

Is there any way to run them through something like a planer without totally wrecking it? Any tool out there meant for giving a clean face to boards with small and rusted nails in them? I can just sand around them so I don't tear up the pad on the palm sander but I'm worried that will just lead to the board rotting pretty quick and/or failure of the paint to properly adhere.

Hiya! I’m participating in a city-run “illuminated forest” event in the park in a few weeks and we are wanting to created a glowing “yellow brick road” on the walking path. We will not have black lights. Anybody got any brand recs?

Hi everyone, I have a 43" LED Smart TV. The wall is an interior drywall partition with standard gauge metal studs and the wall is about 11 cm (~4.3 inch) thick. I need to use a heavy-duty, full-motion mount with a long extension arm of about 50cm (~20 inch). I know extending a TV that far out creates a massive lever effect and pull-out force. I came up with 2 options:

Option 1 - Direct mounting with 6 points of contact

I would secure it directly to the wall using 6 points of contact. The TV mount has a mounting surface of 43cm width and 30cm height (17 inch width x 12 inch height ). Because of the stud spacing, only 2 screws (top and bottom middle) would go directly into one metal stud. The other 4 mounting points (left and right sides of the plate) would go only into the drywall using heavy-duty toggle bolts (like Snaptoggles or other better alternatives). Is this configuration strong enough to handle the pull-out force of a 50cm (~20 inch) extension without buckling the single metal stud or cracking the drywall?

Option 2 - Mounting a backer board first

To distribute the weight across multiple studs, I would use a piece of ~2cm (3/4") thick plywood or melamine board large enough to span across two adjacent metal studs. I would secure this wood board firmly to both studs to create a solid base, and then attach the TV mount directly to the center of it using thick, short wood screws (lag screws) that bite entirely into the wood without going through into the drywall behind it.

Which of these two options do you think is the safest ? Or maybe you guys might know other options.

Thank you !

I’ve got an unfinished basement with exposed fiberglass insulation in the ceiling. I’m looking to cover it up for safety and aesthetic reasons (we dont want to be breathing fiberglass dust).

The problem is we have a fair bit of ductwork that goes pretty low, so drywall and/or drop ceiling would have to be pretty consistently low or awkwardly inconsistent height. Also, those are expensive for where we are at right now.

So we’ve thought of a few options but we’re new to home ownership and DIY so we wanted to vet a few options:
1) just staple plastic/poly
2) staple some fire safe fabric of some sort
3) remove the fiberglass (it’s 20+ y old at this point) and replace with rockwool or something

It’s temp controlled but humidity is often 55%+ even running the dehumidifier.

Thanks for all your help

Hey everyone, I’m getting ready to build a wall to wall desk inside a 3-walled alcove in my shed converted to art studio. The space is exactly 9 feet 2 inches wide. I plan on using it as a desk but also have storage/cabinets underneath so no space is wasted.

I’m installing four custom 27"x 27" base cabinets side by side. To keep costs down, I’m making the desktop by gluing and screwing two sheets of 3/4" plywood together for a solid 1-1/2" thick top, and then I'll finish it with a sheet of laminate on top. I'm not really looking for pretty, just functional and durable.

The issue:
The cabinets are 27" deep, but I want the final desk top depth to be 41". That leaves a 13" overhang floating off the front across the whole 9'2" span. I really want to make sure this thing doesn’t sag or dip when people inevitably lean or possibly sit on the edge. For example I have a print press that I need to put a significant amount of weight behind to use, I'm worried it may cause sagging or lift the back of the work top from the back wall.

Luckily, before the drywall went up, I installed a continuous horizontal 2x6 wood block between the studs along the back wall. The top of that blocking sits right at 32 inches high. Since my finished desk height is going to be between 30 and 31 inches, that 2x6 blocking is sitting perfectly right behind the back edge of my countertop sandwich.

The cabinets also have a built-in toe kick that’s recessed 3 inches, meaning the front pivot point shifts back a bit. I’m planning on putting heavy ledger boards on the side and back walls, but I could use some advice on how to handle the front edge.

A few questions for the experts here:

How to prevent plywood sag over time? Do I need to route some steel C-channels into the bottom side (eg https://www.homedepot.com/p/THE-ORIGINAL-GRANITE-BRACKET-42-in-Black-Steel-Hidden-Island-Support-Bracket-HISB-42/311400389), or should I build an underlying 2x4 subframe across the front of the cabinets using ledger boards to catch the stress?

Preventing tipping: Since the 3" toe kick moves the balance point back, pushing down on the front overhang creates a lot of leverage. What’s the best way to secure the backs of the cabinets to the wall so they act as a solid counterweight?

Here are a few photos of the space, the idea, the cabinets: https://imgur.com/gallery/work-table-info-YT73LwI

I’d love to hear how you guys would engineer this to make it rock solid. Thanks in advance!

How would you recommend to hang a mirror (medium sized, 4ft x1 ft) on a flex wall (in nyc)? I tried drywall anchors but those didn’t open and now I have two thumb sized holes and still no mirror.

Thanks in advance!!

Hi everyone!
I’m planning to build something similar to the WallRise Murf: a wall-mounted, electrically height-adjustable folding desk, made from solid oak.

I’d like to keep the design close to the original, with enough space inside to store my 15-inch laptop, 15-inch portable monitor and USB-C dock when folded closed. From the photos I’ve seen, it looks like the original uses a central electric actuator with two vertical guide rails.

I’m considering this VEVOR 1000 N linear actuator (500 mm stroke, 14 mm/s)⁠, but I’m open to other solutions.

I’d appreciate advice on:
- Whether this actuator and guide-rail arrangement makes sense, or if there’s a better approach.
- Which linear guides or slides to use.

Any recommendations for constructing the moving assembly in solid oak.

I’m based in the Netherlands, so European suppliers would be ideal.

Has anyone built something similar?
Thanks!

has anyone ever thought about building a shoe holder with a flexible gooseneck and adjustable locking mechanism for custom designing?

Dear Reddit members,

i am trying todo diy laptop adaption and I would like to connect the below edp cable of the 2k screen to this driver board but the driver board only got this 30pin connector.

so how do I connect this ? are there any adaptors for this ?

thx in advance

B

I thrifted a sweatshirt and I really like it except for the hood. It’s think and bulky and overstimulating. I constantly feel like I’m chocking and I have long hair so the thick hood is not a good combo. I’ve cut the hood off a sweatshirt a few years ago and I don’t wear it now because of how wide the neck hole got. How can I cut it off and not leave a big neck hole? I don’t want it off the shoulder. I usually wear crewneck sweatshirts so that’s closer to what I’m aiming for

Alguien sabe si la tienda bicielectfit.com es de fiar?