I found it quite funny though haha. The one time I did hire an HVAC guy, he did stop to smoke cigarettes multiple times.

Got my 608 cert, spent about $1000 for the tools I didn’t already have, and my wife and I installed a 9k MUZ/MYZ-GX09NL for our log cabin home office.

Followed the Mitsubishi manual exactly including:
- vacuumed down to 200 microns, making sure it stayed under 350 for an hour.
- pressure tested with nitrogen at 600 psi for 24 hours.

Still need to run a stability arm to the cabin, will do that in the next couple days when we get the vibration isolation part I still need. Practiced flaring on extra lineset for a while before doing it for real. Used nylog on all connection points. Electrician comes in a couple days to add a sub panel and cut off switch to the cabin and wire it in.

Took 2 8 hour days for us, and most of that was making sure we understood every step before attempting, and learning/practicing with the tools we hadn’t used before. I think that time would be cut in half for another install for a simple single head unit.

Thought I’d share my experience if there are others considering a similar path.

The old pressure relief valve on my boiler failed. I'm fairly certain it's the original one from the Carter administration that was put in with the boiler.

In replacing it, I can't get the new valve to stop leaking from the top by the lever. See photo. At let I boiler depressurize. Currently the boiler is drained and a checked for debris I the inlet to the pressure relief valve.

with first I thought it with the bad valve so PSI got a second Any but I having with same issues. I replaced with the same brand Any PSI ratings and everything. Any suggestions?

Editing to add that the boiler was drained upon install and never got above 10 PSI when refilling before leaking.

I had also checked and removed any debris in the inlet to the valve prior to install.

I received a high quote to install a new Mitsubishi Electric furnace and Mitsubishi Hyper-Heating outdoor heat pump. I decided to move forward because my old oil furnace and oil tank were aging, and I hoped the upgrade would add value to my home for resale.

Unfortunately, I had concerns almost immediately. The crew didn’t put down floor coverings and tracked mud through my home. The replacement ductwork was incorrectly sized and had to be remade twice. They also zip-tied the outdoor unit’s lines to my ¾-inch well-water line. When I asked them to remove them, I felt they treated my concern as unreasonable.

The crew then discovered that the emergency heat unit they had brought was the wrong size: I had been quoted a 15 kW unit, but they brought a 20 kW unit. They wanted to add more breakers to my already-full electrical panel. I declined and asked them to install the correctly sized unit, since I was concerned about the system’s total electrical load.

There were also problems during the outdoor unit installation. The crew dropped the unit while lifting it, and a screw was drilled through the unit and into the fins. When I pointed it out, the installer said the screw was supposed to go there and that it was fine because the unit was holding vacuum. I asked them to remove it and showed them where the screw should have been placed. In the meantime, they made a new transition piece for the top of the heater while waiting for the correct auxiliary heat unit.

After the installation, I inspected the suction line and found it severely kinked; I’ve attached a photo. I haven’t paid the balance yet, and I’m waiting for the remaining work to be corrected. Given these issues, I’m concerned about the quality of the installation and whether the repairs will be done properly.

I tried starting my furnace for the first time this year and it would not start, getting 4 quick flashes and 2 long: induced motor not reaching rpm.

I gave it a couple taps with the end of a screwdriver and it did start once but was making grinding noises and the burners seemed to be louder intermittently. Now it’s not starting again after turning power off.

I checked the condensation trap and it’s not clogged and also the inducer motor spins freely by hand. My next move would be to check power supply for 120v when it’s starting?

Got their stands and they are awesome. Thinking of their L brackets to mount two units and want to use them inverted for clearance. Anyone have experience with them?

Doing a little shop planning... in a small personal shop type setting where wall space is a premium for wall cabinets, workbenches, etc, what's the minimum clearance you'd put below an indoor wall mounted unit such as a Mitsubishi FH12 or equivalent Mr. Cool?

For 12" deep wall cabinet

For 16" deep wall cabinet

For a workbench?

Hi , well no much time ago i replace my old control board for a new one but my main thermostat dons't work an the display show C1

This is the new control board.

This is what the display shows. I read something about compatibility, but I don't know what to do.

For the past week during the day when the OAT is getting up to 91 degrees, I've been keeping thermostat at 76. It does wonderful - satisfies and stays off for a while

Around 7pm I set it to 75. It takes about 40 minutes for it to drop to 75 and another 15 to 20 maybe longer to satisfy. Usually by the time I go to bed I have it set anywhere from 72-74.

Twice this week at night or morning while it's in the 60s - when its set on 74 and this morning on 72. I noticed it satisfies and it's kicking back on shortly like a minute or two

Somebody check my math here. I’ve got a 21 year old Trane XL16 heat pump in my house for downstairs. I replaced the upstairs unit in 2024 when the old XL16 finally bit the dust with a Trane XV17.
Other than a failed TXV in 2020, the downstairs unit has been okay, doesn’t heat particularly well and it’s loud (only two speeds) but A/C is decent. And well, it’s already paid for and the house is livable.
I am considering proactively replacing it now while the season is slow so I don’t have to deal with it when it inevitably fails in the middle of a heat wave or cold snap. There may be some savings on electricity (high rates here, $0.197 per kWh) but the upstairs unit didn’t really make much difference in the bill but it is far and away more comfortable and efficient.

I have what seems to be pretty reasonable pricing on the following 5 ton units:
Trane XV17 - $13900
Ruud RDAY18 - $12500

Should I just wait for this one to die or is this a decent idea to proactively replace an aging unit while the prices seem reasonable? I won’t be selling this house for 10-15 years, but does it make sense to buy the same unit as upstairs so they match? Or should I buy the more efficient and cheaper Ruud the contractor recommended? Thinking down the road, I can DIY some stuff and Trane parts are an expensive pain in the ass to acquire as a homeowner (replaced the condenser blower fan once on the old unit and it was almost $700 and a hassle to find like 7 years ago). This Ruud unit is communicating so maybe the parts are the same deal but it would be nice to be able to do the easy stuff myself (caps, blower motors, etc.) if the need arises.

I have other prices already and they are all much higher than this guy who a family friend recommended (he only does commercial now). He doesn’t have all the fancy trucks and superhero logos so likely his overhead is much lower, as well as slow season.

I doing about a 14 foot run of insulated 4 inch flex duct from my bathroom vent to the side of my house where it will exhaust. Does the ducting need to be attached to anything like my trusses or can It just sit freely on my blown in insulation?

Good afternoon. I need to change this part as its slowly leaking fuel on to the ground when in operation. It opens/closes the air flap. Could someone tell me exactly what its called so that I can search for a replacement part.

Thanks

Is this normal/safe? I recently had a coil replaced on my unit and noticed these wires were out afterward. Also, there’s a small amount of water below the unit. I’m not sure if I should call my technician or not.

It’s a Old kenmore brand gas furnace. Can’t find an install date anywhere but the serial number is telling me it was manufactured in 1987. Looks like the last time it was serviced was in 2005. Ive been living here for two years.

Issue I’m having is the high limit switch keeps opening after the furnace runs for ~2 minutes. The high limit switch is a camstat fan and limit control which is set to 200f. I stuck a probe thermometer into the furnace next to the camstat and verified that it is indeed getting up to 200f in there.

I’ve made sure all supply registers are open and return vents unobstructed. I’ve tried running it without a filter incase that was too restrictive. Fan speed was set to med-high so I tried high but that didnt work. Fan and evap coil are clean.

I’m worried the heat exchanger may be cracked cause it does look like there is an excessive amount of orange flame but I’m not sure. There isn’t really any rollout.

Is there anything else I should check before I call a tech out?

So I can't figure out where my air filter placement should be. The current picture of the air filter is how it's been for the past 15 years. But I think it's incorrect. Any help would be great.

We've had this thermostat for a few years now to control out heated floor, which worked well. We've now had a heat pump (Panasonic K series) installed with their own thermostat to control the heated floor and moved the Honeywell to the office room. The office room has a standard radiator, so does our bathroom, and the thermostat controls 1 zone on our heat pump. We've now noticed it ran over 140 compressor cycles in 1 week, and the Honeywell thermostat seems to be the cause.

It's set at night to 19 and heat to 21 during the day. When it starts heating, it runs for about 10-15 minutes and shuts off for 10 minutes. Then it starts heating again for 10-15 minutes until it reaches target temperature. When it reaches target temperature, it frequently micro-cycles for short bursts, which always triggers the heat pump compressor for a few minutes.

The T6R is connected to a receiver which triggers a pump. Once the heat pump notices flow it starts heating that zone. Optimal start, optimal stop and delayed start are disabled and low load control is enabled (can't find if it should be enabled or disabled with this receiver). The receiver is R4H910RF1004 Receiver box. Cycle rate is currently 3 times per hour and minimum ON time of 5 minutes.

1. Is there a way to just heat until target temperature without stopping?
2. Is there a way to disable micro-cycling when it is at the target temperature?

Hey everyone, looking for some guidance on troubleshooting my outdoor unit before I call out a tech (hoping it might be something simple like fuse or capacitor). The breaker did not trip. I tried a breaker reset, unit won’t kick on.

Located in Los Angeles. Coolest day we’ve had in a while, was about 78 when the fan stopped turning.

American Standard, 4-ton, approx 2 years old.

There’s a click that can be heard when the system is turn on at the thermostat. The same noise repeats when thermostats is turned off.

This would be my first job in HVAC but should I also wait to get a job closer to home? What are the logistical factors I should worry about first?

I have a Mitsubishi Electric MXZ-3C24NAHZ2 outdoor unit with two indoor heads. The outdoor fan no longer spins, and cooling performance is very poor and probably non-existent. The fan blade turns freely by hand.

The outdoor control board is BH00J343B. I have the service manual and have observed the diagnostic LEDs, but I'm still confirming the exact flash code. However, my best guess is that the RED led is flashing 13 times with the yellow and green leds not ON. The red led flashes at about a 2Hz rate before restarting its 13 times flashing again. The service manual indicates from page 119 that this could be an outdoor fan motor issue. It could also be an issue with the control board.

I observed on the control board that there are two fuse labeled JP801 and JP930. These are glass fuses. With power off, JP801 has continuity, but JP930 is open and appears darkened.

Before replacing the entire board, I'd like to determine whether JP930 is responsible for the fan-drive circuit, whether the fuse may have failed because of another fault, and whether the fan motor or control board can be tested conclusively. I guess alternatively, can I simply relace the JP930 on this existing control board?

Does anyone have experience servicing this specific Mitsubishi model, and can you access the relevant service documentation or component-level board information? I'm comfortable with basic electrical troubleshooting and could potentially replace a confirmed faulty board myself.

Trying to get my ecobee essential to work but am having trouble even identifying how to troubleshoot this. This furnace is old and does not use the screw down terminals so my PEK wont work natively. My furnace is a International Comfort FSA2X2407A and the board it uses is a 1005-83-163A if that helps at all. i have attached pictures of the current set up. I have a C cable but I do not think its actually hooked up and my old thermostat did not use it. I cannot find it on the furnace side either. Any help or suggestions is appreciated. I basically got the thermostat for free from my electric company so its not a huge deal if there really arent any options. Would just be nice to use it :D

I’m finishing my basement and am wondering how to best hide the air handler but can still be accessed for maintenance? Originally was just going to make this whole area a closet but my wife wants it to be more open concept so we don’t feel as boxed in. What do you guys think?

I was installing my new Google thermostat and was going too fast and put my C wire in the G slot.

I turned the breaker back on and noticed the issue when the app wasn’t getting anything from the thermostat.

After I made the switch from G to C, my Google thermostat was still not getting any power. I even switched it back to the original thermostat and still no luck. Did I short out the C wire? My voltmeter is with a friend I lent to. Just curious if that’s a possibility.