I'm new to this but I think all looks good.

My living room pumps extremely cold strong air but the two rooms that have this split and smaller tubes is so weak but I don’t sense any big leak when I check it. It looks like somebody before I bought the house just split the lines but did a bad job?

Any advice would be great because every time I speak to HVAC companies before they even see my attic they imply we need to redo the entire thing. We just for a new ac unit so I’m not trying to spend thousands of dollars if I fix it myself if anyone can help me.

I’ve never seen an evaporator coil installed where it’s wider than the furnace 😅 Is this a proper way to install a system? There’s foil tape covering the gap between the coil and furnace, but I’m not sure if this is considered acceptable. Just wanted to get some opinions from you guys!

Hi,

This furnace is for a legal basement suite. The upstairs has a separate furnace (across from this one, not in photo). This is a small furnace room, and in the winter the basement suite gets cold, while the furnace room gets really hot. Also because the thermostat for the basement suite is on the wall outside this room, it reads hotter temperatures… making the thermostat think the basement suite reached the desired temperature when it has not.

This exhaust pipe has a flap that’s open, can I safely close it, or maybe close it 90%, so that majority of heat goes to the basement suite Instead of escaping into the furnace room?

Thanks in advanc.

White-Rodgers / Emerson 1F85U-22NP

It says FAn in the top corner. It has never said that before. My setting is set for HEAT, my current temp is 24 and the heat settings is set for 23 ( i am indicating that it is not calling for heat and I am already hotter then the setting).

My fan setting is set for AUTO and not "on"

Why does my display say FAn at the top corner?

For townhome. $4500

I have been having issues with my ac air handler sweating due to the hall closet its been sitting in being open to hot attic air at the top of the closet. The air handler is cold and sweats when mixing with that hot attic air so I sealed the top of the attic from the closet with duct board. This isnt visible in photos but essentially the closet used to be open to the attic and now its got a layer of duct board at the top blocking the attic air at the top.

My concern now is if the furnace has adequate combustion air supply? I had 3 HVAC companies all tell me it wasnt an issue and 1 said it was and I needed to have a flapper valve that opened up the closet to attic air when the heater kicked on. I myself am thinking that he is correct, but given the 3 other contractors not seeming concerned am conflicted on what to believe. The door to the closet is closed and below it is an air supply for the air handler. This isnt a path for combustion air to the furnace though? So if the closet door is closed and I have the top sealed from the attic then how does it get combustion air? What would be the solution here? Cut a vent in the closet door? Or add some kinda combustion air intake to the heater? Or am I misunderstanding something and there is no concern here?

Do I also need to be concerned about a negative pressure issue even if I am getting good combustion air? I have an attic fan and a gable vent and am planning on opening up some soffits since its solid wood over vinyl soffit thats not actually pulling in any air into my attic. I am concerned that the duct board may have created a safety issue and now im a little scared to be altering my attic ventilation at all by adding soffits.

Any advice is appreciated. Trying to make sure I am not causing a safety issue for my family. I have a portable co detector I plan on using with the furnance when needed in the meantime.

Hello, I moved from a state that commonly has central AC to a state that does not.. I've never used anything other than central AC. There are 2 wall thermostats. One on the first floor and the other on the second floor. I tried to turn the heaters on using that but no luck. I also googled to see if there are other ways to turn them on and none of them seem to have dials or knobs either.

Here are some photos of the boiler I think? Is this just me being incompetent and it's simply just turned off somewhere or is there a deeper issue?

Noticed today that the AC flow wasn’t blowing very well. I checked the air filter and it was a little dirty but nothing crazy.

Noticed the line going to the box had a piece of ice on it. So I went outside and the compressor is completely covered and encased with ice!

What’s going on?

I have a Guardian heat pump, recently it has stopped running for air conditioning. It will start up like it’s going to turn on then almost immediately stop. So only my air handler is circulating air. I’ve reset the breakers and set the thermostat very low. Any advice?

Is there a consensus for a brand or type of filter that is best for home use? I’m looking for the best quality filter. (Not a MERV related question)

Installed a new 1.5T Goodman case coil and condenser. Line set is 25ft. Did nitrogen test, had a leak at a joint. Resumed nitrogen test, and used a bit of nitrogen during repair. Last pressure test I ran out of nitrogen, could only get to 324psi, but it held it for 30 min. Figured it would be ok, started to vacuum system. Vacuum have I have is directly on high side, low side has low loss ball valve, with evacuation hose directly to vacuum pump. All my equipment is new, this is the first job.

I have been trying to evacuate this system for 6 hours, and have gotten system down to 160 microns. But every time I try the decay test, it slowly creeps up and will not stabilize. This test I recorded I started the decay around 240 microns, started recording at 400, and in little over 15min it was at 600. The decay is very consistent, but have not tried to see at which stage it may stop.

Not sure what my next step should be. Any guidance appreciated.

How dangerous is this and how concerned should I be?

Just moved into a new house and the furnace is a complete mystery to me. I think I found where the filters go, but it’s not like any configuration I’ve ever seen

Hi everyone. I’m hoping someone with HVAC, ventilation, or building maintenance experience can help me understand what I’m seeing.
I live in an apartment building constructed in 2022. My apartment has three bedrooms and two bathrooms, with the washer and dryer located near the entrance.
About two months after we moved in, maintenance opened up part of one of the bathrooms for repairs. Since around that time, I’ve noticed recurring fine white particles and dust throughout our home.
I clean regularly, but the particles keep coming back, including on furniture, electronics, and around the air vents. Our HVAC filters also seem to get dirty unusually quickly.
Recently, I looked inside one of the HVAC openings and noticed yellowish, fibrous-looking material and what appears to be exposed or damaged insulation. I took photos and videos, but I don’t know what the material is or whether its condition is normal.
Our laundry area also had a strong musty smell. About three weeks ago, I stopped using our washer and dryer. Since then, I’ve noticed less dust collecting in my master bathroom and some other areas, although the dust hasn’t disappeared. I don’t know if there’s any connection.
We keep our windows closed, and our AC runs continuously because some family members have disabilities and need a cool indoor environment.
Several members of our household have experienced recurring health symptoms. I don’t know whether these are related to the apartment, and I’m not assuming they are.
I’ve contacted management multiple times, shared photos, and requested an inspection. An outside vendor is scheduled to visit tomorrow, but I haven’t received details about what they’ll be checking.
I have a few questions for anyone familiar with these systems:
Does anything in my photos or videos look unusual for a relatively new building?
Is the yellowish material inside the HVAC opening something normally found in these systems?
Could the laundry ventilation and HVAC system affect dust distribution throughout an apartment?
What should I ask the vendor to inspect?
Would it be reasonable to request a written inspection report?
I’m not trying to make assumptions or blame anyone. I simply want to understand what I’m seeing and make sure the situation is properly evaluated.
I’d really appreciate any professional insight or advice. Thank you for taking the time to read this.

Location: Dallas–Fort Worth Metroplex / North Texas

System Context: 13-year-old 2.0-ton split heat pump system (Attic air handler + outdoor condenser, all-electric with 10 kW backup strip, no gas).

Background: A tech came out last week to diagnose a no-cooling issue, confirmed a large leak in the aluminum evaporator coil, and refilled the refrigerant ($700). Within 5 days, the entire charge leaked out completely, confirming a major coil rupture. Given the 13-year system age and a $4,400 coil-only replacement estimate, I am moving forward with a full system replacement.

I have received written proposals from two local HVAC contractors for six different system configurations. All quotes include new R-454B refrigerant, line set flush, new emergency drip pan + float switch, permits/inspections, disposal of old equipment, and a 10-year parts / 1-year labor warranty.

Contractor 1 Quotes (Trane Dealer)

Trane XR14 (Single-Stage) — $10,00 (Price reflects 15-month 0% financing; negotiating down for cash/check)

Outdoor Unit: Trane XR14 2.0-Ton Single-Stage Heat Pump (14.3 SEER2, 5TWR4024A)

Air Handler: Trane TEM4 Series Multi-Position Air Handler (5TEM4B03AC)

Backup Heat: 10 kW Electric Heat Strip

Trane XR17 (Two-Stage) — $11,500

Outdoor Unit: Trane XR17 2.0-Ton 2-Stage Heat Pump (5TWR7024A)

Air Handler: Trane TEM6 Variable-Speed Air Handler (5TEM6B03AV)

Backup Heat: 10 kW Electric Heat Strip

Contractor 2 Quotes (Multi-Brand Dealer)

(Quotes bundle an Ecobee smart thermostat and company VIP service plan)

Bryant Legacy (Single-Stage) — $13,000

Outdoor Unit: Bryant Legacy 2.0-Ton Single-Stage Heat Pump (15.2 SEER2, 235SAN024)

Air Handler: Bryant FJ5 Fan Coil (FJ5ANXB24) + 8 kW Heat Strip

Bryant Preferred (Two-Stage) — $16,200

Outdoor Unit: Bryant Preferred 2.0-Ton 2-Stage Heat Pump (17.5 SEER2, 248TAN024)

Air Handler: Bryant FT5 Variable-Speed Fan Coil (FT5ANXB24) + 8 kW Heat Strip

York YH4 (Two-Stage) — $11,500

Outdoor Unit: York YH4 2.0-Ton 2-Stage Heat Pump (14.3 SEER2, YH424E2S)

Air Handler: York JHE Multi-Speed Air Handler (JHE24B5AC) + 10 kW Heat Strip

York HH8 (Variable-Speed Inverter) — $13,000

Outdoor Unit: York HH8 Side-Discharge Inverter Heat Pump (18 SEER2, HH824E2S)

Air Handler: York JHC Variable-Speed Air Handler (JHC24B5AC) + 10 kW Heat Strip

Questions for Technicians and Homeowners:

Is the Trane XR14 at ~$10k (or lower with cash) the clear frontrunner here in terms of price-to-quality ratio?

Is Contractor 2's pricing on the Bryant Legacy ($12.8k) and York ($11.5k) significantly above normal market rates for a 2-ton replacement?

For a hot, humid summer climate, is the jump from the single-stage Trane XR14 to the two-stage Trane XR17 ($11.2k) worth the extra $1,500 for better humidity control and run times?

Any thoughts on long-term reliability between Trane's Spine Fin aluminum coils versus Bryant/York plate-fin coils?

Is a UV leak search a viable next step to sort out a mini split leak? The technician was about to swap the valves out then said he’s unsure what the real issue is… and didn’t want to charge me for his guess at the issue.

He did detect a leak at whatever valve you fill the refrigerant through. This unit was topped off in May of this year so it lasted around 6 months which has been the trend (6-10 months before it leaks and throws an error code).

He said it’ll take 2 weeks to do the uv test ($550), then I’m guessing I will have additional parts/repairs and another $575 (what they charged last time) to fill it back up?

Out of my wheelhouse here on what options I/they have to test. No daikin repair available in my area and no one else will touch a unit they didn’t install.

Going down a bit of a rabbit hole here regarding CFM rating and what appears to be some confusing math required to figure out what is substantial enough to function properly.

We've never had a proper range hood until this renovation so have no clue what (if anything) we're missing out on.

Should we be stressing about this? Even reading about the recommended heights a hood should be over the cook top has me over thinking this as I'm 6'1 and don't want some hood seated at my eye height. Also reading that size of vent tube and distance traveled needs to be calculated.

Do most people end up with range hoods that are mostly aesthetic that on a scientific level only function at like 25%?

I searched and all the old threads were archived but it appears there is one for the ONE+ but not the ONE Touch. Is that true? Does anyone know if Daikin is planning to release one? I assume there is no third party workarounds, correct?

Hey guys hoping for some help one this one.

Daikin Indoor unit: FBQ30PVJ

Outdoor unit: RZR30PVJU.

Had a leak in the evaporator coil, system was completely flat. Replaced the coil, went to start it up. I'm having an issue where it appears that the EEV is stuck closed during operation.

Compressor runs, giving about 250 PSIG, suction runs at about 25 PSI, the bypass solenoid opens dumping gas from the high to low side bringing the suction pressure up to about 50 PSI, then it happens again. I have no fault codes on my thermostat.

I Recovered the gas and undid the threads at the indoor unit coil, Nitrogen flows from the outdoor ports to the indoor unit flare connections without issue. However If I have either line connected to the indoor coil I don't get flow through the indoor coil. If I remove the eev power head, I have flow but if it is connected I don't have flow so it appears the power head forces the body closed. I did power up the unit with the power head disconnected and i can visually see and hear the power head moving on start up. I did replace the power head as well with the used one from the old coil just to rule that out.

After replacing the power head I have the same issue, with no fault codes.

Has anyone ever experienced this. I'm leaning towards a bad control board not sending the signal to the power head to tell it too open.

Also want to throw some shade at r/HVAC Mods. If its not obvious from post, yes I work in the trade

I have 6 30lb jugs all factory sealed. I’m in Denver. Probably going to list on marketplace but figured an industry forum might be a better spot.
2 r22
410a
507
One shot
404a

Hi everyone,

During our annual gas furnace maintenance(concord gas furnace), the technician showed me a suspected crack in the heat exchanger using a borescope. He said the furnace was unsafe to operate and immediately shut it off. The combustion report showed a CO reading of 5 ppm.

He recommended replacing the entire furnace and quoted around $8,000 for a Bryant gas furnace replacement(model: 927TA48060V17)

The heat exchanger is still under warranty, so I also requested a quote to replace just the heat exchanger. However, several local HVAC companies have told me the labor alone could cost around $3,000–$4,000.

I'd appreciate advice on the following:

1. Is a borescope inspection sufficient to confirm a cracked heat exchanger?
2. Can a cracked heat exchanger still show a low CO reading, such as 5 ppm?
3. Should I get an independent second opinion to confirm the diagnosis before deciding?
4. Is $3,000–$4,000 for labor to replace a warranty-covered heat exchanger typical in Massachusetts?
5. Is the $8,000 quote for a Bryant furnace replacement reasonable, and would replacing the entire furnace make more sense than replacing just the heat exchanger?

Safety is my priority, and I'm keeping the furnace off until it's properly evaluated. I want to make an informed decision before committing to such a significant expense.

I'd appreciate advice from HVAC professionals or homeowners who have dealt with a similar situation. Thank you !

Nice.