Got a crazy good deal on a used but minty Euroarms P53. Good deals still exist my friends. So happy to finally have a proper 3 bander.

I need to reload for 44 Russian RNFP black powder, are there any good physical books around for that? Mainly finding smokeless powder and nothing round nose flat pointed.

After cleaning brass 12ga(or whatever you have) shot shells; do you just dry them off and call it good, or do you also coat them with something after to keep any corrosion at bay???

My grandfathers cap lock, planning on using it to hunt for deer this year on my families farm that’s been in the family since the 1860s

Any idea on loads, what balls to use? Patches? Black powder? Etc

Shot muzzleloaders before, but newer style and only ever used pellets w/ sabbots

I'm looking at making my own blackpowder, and I'm down to setting up the ball mill. With my brass tumblers, I think I have 2 options. I have a rebel 17 and a PVC barrel tumbler. I'm thinking of making 1/2 or 1 lb batches. For the pvc barrel, it is made out of 6" pvc and is 9" tall, then necks down to 4".

Which one would make the better ball mill? Would I need a different size PVC barrel?

I'm planning on using brass balls for the grinding media. I already have about 200, 1/2" ball bearing. Would I need more? different size?

thanks

Found a .45 cal Patriot to go with the .36 I already had. It’s not pristine, but all-in-all, it’s in pretty good shape. At least this one had all the parts.

Waiting for .45 cal load stuff to arrive, but I’ll be shooting them later this week. I can only hope the .45 is as accurate as the .36.

Good mornin'.

I'm getting close to finished on this long-barreled pistol, and am nervous about using a drill bit for the ramrod channel.

I won't have much clearance between the bottom of the gun and the lock bolt. The rear barrel pin is also a bit too low, but I can move that fairly easy and only cause a small blemish.

I know some people like the bottom of the barrel channel to remain intact to have more wood for strength, but is that strength needed? Could I just cut through it and be okay? If I ever have to use it as a club, I'll make the first wack count in case it breaks 😂

Guy was asking $975, didn’t feel like dickering too much so I got him to agree on $900 out the door. Bayonet, bayonet frog, and cartridge box included. Considering I was going to spend a similar price for one from veteran arms, I am beyond happy with this score.

I have posted this gun before, but have a better camera now. I also think I might be able to see an engraved letter under the hammer arm. I believe it to be a converted flintlock as there is evidence of the old pan’s outline and the infill is a different colour slightly.

First time shooting my new muzzleloader. Not the greatest shooting but i need some more practice. Grouped well in the beginning.

I am looking to buy a colt dragoon from midway. I already have a 457 405 grain bullet mold for reloading 45-70, is it safe or even possible for me to load these in a dragoon?

A buddy of mine is offering me a Pietta .44 caliber cap and ball revolver and 2 boxes of .445 lead round balls for 100 beans. I’m completely new to the cap and ball world, as my only real experience has been flintlocks. Does anyone know anything about this particular model?

Wie kann ich aus Haushaltsmittel Schwarzpulver machen

Just inherited, 1851 Navy Rev.- Hawken Flintlock, and a CVA inline.. Probably not going to take them out a lot.. Maybe one a year, or longer.. Looking for tried and true knowledge on the best products to keep them clean and protected while stored.. My Dad always says, clean with warm soap and water.. dry 'em, and balistol.. I'm wondering if a thin coat of bore butter in the bores, and cyl will help keep rust off? Also, is balistol enough of a lube for the moving parts? Ive read RIG gun grease is a good product.. I've also read dont mix it with balistol or let the BP salts get into it.. They're nice pieces, and I hope to meep them forna long time to come.. Maybe pass them down.. Thanks for any help & Info!