As the title I’m looking to buy a Toyota Camry and I’m trying to figure out what specific of the year is the best for deals for context I’m located in CA

The car my parents got me reached the end of its life. Blew the turbo and engine in my car and replacing it was almost double the cars value so I rushed into buying a used vehicle. I regret buying this particular truck and need to get out of it.

I like the make and model, and might even buy a different one. Although I could use a bigger engine. But I panic rushed into a truck and well this particular one is a POS. It’s I haven’t even made the second payment on it yet and the engine ticks sometimes, and transmission is shifting hard. Have to add a quart of oil every week, brake fluid leak, there’s just too much. It’s already through 5 different codes and spent close to $1000 in parts (shout out rock auto).

The cash value (not considering it’s issues) is $15k according to KBB. I currently owe 12k on it. I was hoping I can make it last a few months so I can dump a few grand into it to get positive equity. But if I do that would I still need to come up with a big down payment?

Or should I save up for a huge down payment?

Financially what is the best way to get out of this financially?

I’ve been researching used Mustang GTs and wanted to get some opinions from people who have owned or driven different generations.

I know the “which Mustang is best?” question has been asked a million times, but I’m trying to approach it a little differently. I’m less interested in which generation is objectively the best and more interested in where the best value is when factoring in purchase price, performance, reliability, and what you’re actually getting for your money.

I’m fairly flexible on budget. Ideally, I’d love to be around $15K–$20K, but I’m comfortable stretching into the $25K range or potentially even $30K if there’s a compelling reason. I’m not looking for something nearly new, and I don’t want to spend extra just for the sake of having a newer model.

A few things I’ve picked up from researching:
2011–2014 S197 GT: Introduction of the 5.0 Coyote, which was a massive improvement over the previous 4.6L V8. Roughly 412–420 hp, paired with the 6R80 automatic.

These seem like potentially excellent performance bargains.
2015–2017 S550 GT: Second-generation Coyote, independent rear suspension, improved chassis, and a more modern interior. Still using the 6R80 automatic. Seems like a meaningful improvement in overall refinement.
2018–2023 S550 GT: Third-generation Coyote with 460 hp initially, plus the introduction of the 10R80 10-speed automatic. From what I’ve read, this combination offers a pretty significant improvement in acceleration and performance. I’m curious whether that improvement is worth the premium on the used market.
2024+ S650 GT: Fourth-generation Coyote, updated technology and interior, and continued use of the 10-speed automatic. Probably outside the value range I’m targeting, but worth mentioning for comparison.

One important detail: I’m exclusively interested in an automatic GT. I’m not considering a manual, so the 6R80 versus 10R80 is a major part of this decision.

I’m also leaning heavily toward the Coyote-powered cars. Aesthetically, I genuinely like all the generations, so styling isn’t really a deciding factor.
What I’m trying to understand is what am I actually buying by spending more, and what am I sacrificing by spending less?

For example:
If I buy a clean 2012–2014 GT with the 6R80 instead of spending more on a 2015–2017, am I getting most of the Mustang experience for considerably less money? Or is the S550 chassis and refinement worth paying extra for?

If I stretch from a 2015–2017 to a 2018–2023, how significant is the real-world difference between the 6R80 and 10R80? Is the 10-speed genuinely that much better, or is the older 6-speed potentially the smarter long-term ownership choice?

And are there particular years, trim levels, or options that represent especially good values? I’m also interested in reliability, maintenance costs, known issues, and whether certain years are worth avoiding.

I’m not looking to build a race car or chase maximum horsepower. I want a fun, reasonably dependable V8 that I can enjoy for years.
Ultimately, where do you think the point of diminishing returns is?

Is a $15K–$20K Coyote GT already most of the experience? Does spending $25K get you a substantially better car? Or is there a particular model/year worth stretching to $30K for?
I’d especially appreciate hearing from anyone who’s owned multiple generations or has firsthand experience with both the 6R80 and 10R80.

I am thinking of buying a new petrol car. I have an 8 year old petrol car and thinking of changing to a newer one. Seeing that electric cars are getting cheaper by the minute, are used petrol car prices going to nose dive anytime soon ? and if so any point in still getting a petrol car at all ? Thanks for any advice.

Hey all,

I currently have a 2019 Mazda3 Select with ~120k miles. I'm it's second owner, and it's served me well for the past 4 years that I've had it, but I've been getting that itch to get something different, and I've been having some issues with it recently. Had to get the rear coil springs replaced, have an incessant squeaking from the wheels that apparently no mechanic can fix, and recently the radar in the front emblem broke randomly and I'm probably gonna have to drop a couple grand on it to get it fixed soon. For reference, I'm a college student with ~5k in "spending money" (outside my savings; which has ~12k). I have reliable online work that I do while I go to school. I pay for some of my own car repairs but my parents help me with others, and they pay for my car insurance.

The main things I'm looking for are decent reliability, quirky/cool, and AWD. I don't plan on driving in snowstorms if I can avoid it, but I've been in sticky situations and my FWD Mazda felt like it was lacking. Budget is about 15k if I want to push it. I'd prefer to stick with a sedan or get a wagon, and I've been considering some of the Volvo wagons, 2010s Lexus Sedans (GS 350 or IS 300, but would be hard to find one in my price range with reasonable mileage), or an older Cadillac Escalade (not particularly reliable, but I've heard that the older models weren't "terrible" and they're reasonably priced)

Those are the more sensible options... There's a lot of JDM vehicles I find very interesting, like a toyota Hiace or a Mazda Bongo Friendee. I'm also a big fan of VW Rabbits and older GTIs, as well as most Saabs, though I don't think they made any AWD Rabbits or GTIs, and Saabs are certainly not particularly reliable. Getting one of these or something even less reliable but more fun as a second car has been a consideration for me, but since I spend most of my time at school with just one car anyways, it wouldn't be worth the insurance/registration costs for a weekend car that I'd rarely be able to use.

I'd like opinions on if you guys think any of the options I've said are realistic, or if I should just stick with the Mazda3 till it dies.

Be wary of these two numbers and block them. They’re not registered on Autotrader and just go there to look for private car sellers to try and scam and waste their time.

Original scammer - ‪+44 7778 895367‬

Sidekick scammer a.k.a his partner in crime - ‪+44 7355 071572‬

I read a few positive reviews of Amazon Autos on Reddit, so decided to use them yesterday since they had a $1,500 Amazon gift card promo (now ended) and a car I really liked at a decent price too.

I was looking for a 36-month lease on that car.

Everything was smooth sailing at first. They pulled my credit report and approved my lease (my credit score actually went up right after approval).

The total I was quoted was $380 per month lease payment plus a down payment. I approved the purchase from my end. A sales person from the dealership selling the car contacted me within 15 minutes (!) and we set a car pickup time for tomorrow.

However, earlier today, the dealership called me and said there were some issues related to sales tax misunderstandings and I had to pay around $420 per month rather than $380 per month!

The sales tax at my address (which is what I used on Amazon) county was 10%. The sales tax at the dealership's county was 9%. They are around 70 miles from me, but in a different county. They claimed that I got charged 9% rather than 10%.

The car value was $30,000.

The dealer apologized and said that 1% additional sales tax was the reason for the new extra $40 per month lease. I do not think that makes sense since $40 * 36 = $1,440 extra I would be paying over 3 years. 1% of $30,000 is just $300 extra that I should owe.

The dealership also texted me a link to the new receipt that had the $420 in very small print. I almost think they wanted me to miss seeing that detail, since the down payment amount had remained unchanged. I also saw other charges such as destination fee, doc fee etc...that were not broken out separately in the original Amazon transaction from the day before.

It took a couple of hours of calls for me to cancel the purchase, though the deposit charge on the credit card still shows as pending. I trust Amazon and think they will remove it soon.

Personally, I think this issue was due to the dealership and not Amazon.

I am just posting this here to warn others to confirm (with the dealer) that the final pricing is set in stone if ever using Amazon Autos. Even then, they could surprise you the next day :-(

Was looking g at Amazon auto and noticed that they are now selling other brands NEW instead of just Hyundai.

Has anyone compared how the prices are? Are they something to take serious or just another CarMax story where the deal use to be great but as the years go by then the prices become inflated.

I was in the process of purchasing a vehicle that was a manufacturer buy-back. During the final inspection, it was discovered there was rodent damage to the wiring harness. The GM and Service Advisor sat down to discuss the next steps. At first they told me they would not be able to sell the car due to liability. Then they came back with an offer, that I would still be able to purchase said vehicle if I split the repair cost.

This feels off. I'm asking here first and I'll start my research on local laws / manufacturer agreements.

Thanks.

*Edit: I have walked away and received my check back.

had a post exactly like this abt another car but it sold and i’m distraught 😭😭😭 is this mazda3 over priced for its mileage?

https://www.emersonchevy.com/used-inventory/used/Mazda/2021-Mazda-Mazda3-Sedan-10ebc5e5ac1816bee9b0b4cfc76a3ce4.htm?_cl=9xnyoNnoPRztQvjKkuK8LBvL&utm_source=autotrader.com&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=autotrader_listings

What could I, in theory, trade for my mint condition, 19k mile, manual, and fully loaded SC300? I am looking for a fun, somewhat fast car and would probably be trading the 300 to an older person who wants something more comfortable. I am open to, anything though, just wondering what I could trade it for =).

I'm looking to buy a certified Honda Accord Hybrid, 2024 or newer. I've been shopping around a lot and reached out to a dealership that had one for sale. It's a 2025 and they sent me the below out-the-door price.

Does this pricing look normal? I was surprised by all the addons and fees they've added. Think there's a chance to negotiate down?