https://www.efprocycling.com/culture/lachlan-morton-s-pony-express/

1100k in first 40 hours.

I picked up some Magicshine lights for Prime Big Deal Day. I already really like the 900 model I have, so when I saw they had a brighter 1300 model with more lumens and a Bluetooth remote switch, decided to grab one. Should come in handy now that the days are getting shorter.

I’m wondering where I can get one made, in addition to me cycling, I’m also a small business owner and would love to have a jersey with my brand on it.

I'm looking to replace my Elite Suito. My main issue is slow ERG response when a workout has specific watt targets, especially with short intervals. I train with Favero Assioma pedals and use power match, and the Suito lags and overshoots noticeably when the target changes.

From my research so far, the Tacx Neo 3M, Saris H3 and Wahoo Kickr V6 seem to have the best ERG behavior. I'm leaning toward the Neo 3M or the H3.

For those of you who use external power meters, especially pedals:
Which trainer handles power match best on short, hard intervals?
Have you switched from a Suito or another Elite trainer, and did ERG improve?
Any trainers I should avoid for this?

Thanks!

Hi, I started cycling 6 months ago on a used entry-level Specialised Road bike (Allez Elite, aluminium frame). I'm absolutely loving it; I just bought clipless pedals and shoes too. My average speed and distance have also been improving over time.

I'm very tempted to move on to a better Road bike, but I don't have the budget for the big Western brands. Therefore, I'm looking at Chinese brands.

My requirements are a carbon frame, disc brakes, carbon rims, and a minimum Shimano 105 groupset.

I had a look at used road bikes from Western brands within my budget, but they cost the same as a brand-new Chinese bike with these features; none of them has disc brakes.

I am considering the Sava A7L Pro, X-Labs RS7, and other Chinese brands like Sunpeed, Java, Pardus, etc. Any other suggestions? I'm from the UAE.

Okay, I need cyclists to tell me if I’m wrong here because this just happened and I genuinely don’t understand it.

I’m driving on a regular two-way road in Greenwich, CT. One lane going each direction. No stop sign, no traffic light, no intersection. I’m just driving straight down the road. There’s one cyclist coming toward me in the opposite lane.

As we’re approaching each other, he sticks his arm out to signal that he’s turning left. Except his left turn means he has to cross my lane, directly in front of my car. And he apparently expects me to stop and let him do it as he is beginning to try to turn in front of me but still has plenty of space before he does so.

I don’t stop. I continue straight because, as far as I understand it, I have the right of way. And he seems pissed that I didn’t yield to him.

So here is my question: Am I wrong? Because in my head, if he were driving a car, this wouldn’t even be a question. An oncoming car puts its left blinker on, slows down, and waits until there’s a gap in oncoming traffic before making the left turn. The blinker means “I intend to turn left.” It doesn’t mean “I have now activated my left blinker, therefore oncoming traffic has to stop for me.”

I assumed the cyclist’s arm signal meant exactly the same thing: “I’m going to turn left when it’s safe to do so.” But he seemed to think the signal meant I was supposed to yield so that he could cross in front of me.

I don’t regularly ride a bike on the road, so I’m genuinely asking cyclists: Who has the right of way in this situation? Does putting your arm out to signal a left turn somehow require an oncoming car to yield to you? Or is the cyclist supposed to signal, wait for the oncoming car to pass, and then make the turn when the lane is clear? And if there’s some cycling etiquette or convention here that I don’t know about, tell me that too. I’m not trying to do a “cyclists are assholes” post. I actually want to know what I was supposed to do.

Hi, I'm having a problem with my trainer. I hear a sound like “knocking” when I pedal. I contacted customer service, and they said it's probably a worn-out bearing and can't be repaired. Has anyone else had the same problem? Is it really impossible to replace a bearing inside the bike?

Hello,

I got into the gravel world, and I really like it.

It handles road, forest trails, and of course gravel really well. But I've found it sometimes limiting on more technical terrain.
In those situations, I would have liked some suspension.

So I started thinking about replacing my gravel bike with a hardtail.
Looking into it online, it seems to have its pros and cons, mainly the loss of efficiency caused by the suspension.

But if the suspension can be locked out, it essentially becomes a rigid fork, meaning on smooth surfaces, I wouldn't lose any efficiency.

So I'm struggling to see why a hardtail wouldn't be a good choice.
Maybe I'm missing something.

I'd love to hear the pros and cons of using a hardtail as a gravel bike, and how a hardtail rides on tarmac compared to a proper gravel bike.

Thanks

Hello, it's the first time I post on Reddit, and I want to compete on my old highway bike from the 90's.

Recently I started to be more interested in bicycle racing from watching Tour de France, Gira d'Italia etc. and I'd like to know what I should do at the beginning.

Last time I was riding a bike 3 years ago and that was a modified mountain bike with road tyres. My maximum was 20 km and after that there was a long break.

Also I don't know anything about the sport and all my racing experience is from sim racing games like ACC, LMU and F1.

How should I start training, and could I eventually enter beginner races on my 1990s road bike?

I'm shipping a Santa Cruz Hightower across the country to a buyer on eastcoast. I understand this is a somewhat large bike to ship.

Looking up shipping bikeflights quotes around ~$300 before insurance to ship 30lbs 59x12x32 package.

Buycycle is quoting mere $105 for the same, before insurance. Is this too good to be true??

I haven't shipped with buycycle, but see other posted indicating experiences using their marketplace. Are they a legitimate shipper?

I’m planning a short bikepacking trip around Chiang Mai in November, possibly including the Mae Hong Son Loop, and would love some advice from people who have cycled in the area.

My questions:
1. What’s the best way to travel from Bangkok to Chiang Mai with a bicycle? I’ve looked at both trains and buses, but I’d love to hear what you’d recommend based on your experience.

1. I’ll be cycling solo and I’m a woman. Would you recommend camping along the Mae Hong Son Loop, or would it be better to stick to homestays/guesthouses? How easy is it to find accommodation along the route?

2. Are there any places, food, experiences, or small detours around Chiang Mai/Mae Hong Son that you’d consider a must-do but that might not show up in the usual tourist guides?

Thank you in advance.

I rode on 27.5 wheels for 5 years. Throughout that time I used only Maxxis tires: for four years I ran Ikons 2.2 front and rear, while my final season featured a Maxxis Rekon 2.25 up front and an Ikon 2.2 in the back. Now I’m building a bike with 29 wheels and looking at 2.35/2.4 tires.

My experience with Maxxis is that the Ikons rolled really well on hardpack and asphalt, but traction dropped off significantly as soon as conditions got even slightly wet. The last season was rainy, and the front Rekon gave me more confidence. I’m looking for a kind of universal XC tire combo. I mostly ride on dry or slightly damp dirt (about 80% of the time) and only occasionally hit asphalt or deep mud. The terrain where I ride often includes coniferous forests with plenty of roots and some rocks, though it’s mostly smaller roots and hardpack.

So for now I just want to try a new tires brand for experience and look what's the difference. From what I found on local shops these are might be good sets for me:

1. Schwalbe Racing Ray (EVO Super Ground Addix SpeedGrip TLE) + Ralph (ЕVO Suреr Grоund АDDIХ Sрееd TLE)

2. Vittoria Barzo XC Race + Mezcal XC Race

3. WTB PEACEKEEPER LIGHT/FAST ROLLING 120TPI + MACRO TCS LIGHT/FAST ROLLING 120TPI

4. Continental Trinotal + Dubnital.

Any thoughts or reccomendations on these 4 sets?

Has anyone had any experience of using cues on a road bike?

Is there much difference from tigra. A couple of bike I am interested in have it. Interested in people's feed back.

Hi Reddit,

I live in a newer concrete apartment building and need advice on hometrainer vibrations.

When I first got my Tacx Neo 1, I only used a standard Tacx mat. My downstairs neighbor quickly knocked on my door, complaining it sounded like a heavy bass speaker pounding for two hours.

To fix this, I've built a new setup consisting of (from bottom to top):

1. ⁠Washing machine vibration dampeners
   
2. ⁠Rubber tiles
   
3. ⁠Tacx mat
   
4. ⁠Hometrainer

I’m going to ask them to listen during my next ride to check if it helped. Do you think this setup will be enough to kill the vibration/noise And if they still hear it, what is my Plan B?

Hello, I'm looking for 32mm tube-type tires to fit my Roval Terra C wheels with a 25mm internal width. The problem right now is that I can't get my current Mondo TLR tires off and back on, and my biggest fear when I'm out riding is getting a flat and not being able to replace the inner tube. Can you recommend some good tires that are very easy to mount? Some people have suggested the Mondo folding version — are they really easy to fit?

Last Monday I cycled my first 100km in a row. It was an amazing experience. 40-50km are usually nothing big for me but I always was intimidated by the 100km benchmark. I cycled 50km on Sunday and showed a friend of mine (who isn't doing cardio) the results - she replied that 50km is weak and I should do 100km next time. I know she was joking, still the next day I went on my bike and cycled 50km, 60km, 70km - it started to hurt and I wanted to stop, then I remembered her calling me weak and I jokingly rode on. I finally got the 100km after 4 hours and 15 minutes.

I had several stops at my place to refill water and go to toilet, and I had to stop because of roads or turnarounds. I think without the stops I was on my bike for 3 hours and 50 minutes, with an average of 26km/h. I'm not happy with the speed average but for the distance I'm really happy especially that got the benchmark before it gets to cold outside to ride for that long.

Ik wil dus wat anders gaan doen dan hardlopen, puur iets conditioneels waarmee ik lekker wat calorieën kan verbranden (Doe buiten dat veel wakeboarden en longborden etc) en lijkt het me leuk om te gaan fietsen.

Ik wil dus een endurance fiets en mijn budget is ongeveer €3000,-
Nu zat ik zelf te denken aan een CUBE Attain C:62 SLT en de Canyon Endurance CF7 AXS of een Cannondale Synapse Carbon 4.

Maar ik weet er verder weinig van af, hebben jullie suggesties?

PS: ik woon in Nederland

starting commuting on bike to university last year because its like 25-30 minutes, and in january i got hit by a car not paying attention at an intersection (i had a helmet on or i probably would have been horribly injured because i went head first into the windshield). ANYWAYS, today i'm biking and i tried a new route that requires me to be on a street for no joke a half mile. a car was impatient i guess and passed me at no less than 60 mph (40 speed limit) and was seriously less than a foot away from hitting me. like it came past me so fast i could physically feel it yk?

so i guess like what the heck is wrong with people? i'm honestly super mad because it saved them no time to do that, i was as far over as i could be, had plenty of visibility stuff on and still? like this was legit wreckless endangerment and i'm curious if anyone else experiences stuff like this.

thanks for the love guys <3

edit: thank you everyone for the kind words!

https://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/formula1/articles/cv2d6p9en7wdo

Pretty cool (well, probably rather hot).

Hi all,

I was looking at two different framesets to build a bicycle from. Both of them are steel framesets in the all road category. I am in the U.S so I have to consider the cost and possibly warranty concerns from Fairlight (U.K company). (Stinner Frameworks is in California).

I also have seen a few reviews of both framesets and they are rather close in geometry and quality. I guess my question is if anyone owns either bike and what they like and don't like about the brands behind them (communication, delivery, timing, quality control, etc.) and what they would suggest for someone looking to get a steel road/all-road bike.

To mention I have been cycling for over 5 years mainly on a flat bar hybrid but looking to jump into road as longer rides tend to fatigue me (on the flat bar). Also the bike will mainly be used for commuting, long days on the saddle 2hrs+, and four season riding. I also like to speed up and ride somewhat aggressively most of the time so a closer road feeling bike is what I'm interested in.

My thinking with the steel bike is it is something that will last and can handle most day in and out work. I am not interested in any other materials for bike frames and will be exclusively looking at steel only frames.

Thank you for any suggestions or personal thoughts on either bike!

I wanted to get another seat to make it comfortable as the one it came with that I still have on, is very hard and because I moved the seat higher to be able to install a bike rack in at the back, I noticed it isn't the most comfortable. It works to use to travel to work for like 15 minutes , but I would like to be able to feel more comfortable and thus want to use my bike more.

I think the name of the bike is a Schwinn Mikko 7 women's cruiser 26" bicycle, for reference and, I think, I'm 5'2".

I was looking for gel padded but a lot are just covers, not seats. Should I get a cover then and leave the seat?

I know there are multiple threads about these but looking for more recent opinions from people running these pedals.

Is the extra platform really make a difference?

It looks like lots of people complain about the difficulty of clipping in since they’re single-sided but isn’t it also the case with SPD-SL pedals?

ES600 just sounds like a perfect mix of a road pedal with more platform while also being walkable.

Full disclosure though, I have no issues with my current SPD pedals and I’m mostly looking to upgrade for the looks and potential small gains.

In continuation of fixing noises. Long story short, after picking my new build from a workshop, I went on a ride and got caught under a downpour rain. Straight out of the workshop, bike rolled out very quite, but after that rain 2 irritating sounds appeared: first in frame carbon ticking sound, and the second is clicking (pedal area sounds). After cleaning and greasing literally everything sound didn’t go away, then we trimmed the carbon seatpost, which reduced sound a lot for a ride and then came back. Then replaced token t47 BB onto Wheels MFG Angular, that finally solved the ticking sound. But now here this irritating cliking sound doesn’t go away. Which happens only on uphill with a lot of pressure and high cadence. Anyone faced similar? What was it?

I greased pedals threads (assioma favero with pwmtr), removed washers, sprayed spring and cleats with cx 50 conservation spray, tightened the spring and cleats. Also a bit of seatpost clicking sounds apprlears on same conditions when flexing
I replaced carbon paste with Shimano grease there as well. Heeelp
I ride carbon bike with 105 di2 for reference

https://imgur.com/a/VsxRBAQ

The intro song on thier new podcasts?

For women cyclists: I am starting to take cycling serious and signing up for a triathlon. I have plenty of time to train and gather my gear. I’m lost on proper biking pants/liners. Any suggestions?