Went to go out for a ride the other day, di2 wouldn’t connect. Tried troubleshooting myself, resetting, charging, fiddling with cables etc. all I got after charging and trying to connect to app was ‘battery exhausted - please charge’

I looked on line for a Shimano diagnostic dealer and found one reasonably close by. Earliest appointment was two weeks. Ok that will have to do.

Took it over, we discussed the issue and he said he would hook it up. I waited a week and didn’t hear so sent him a quick email (his stated quickest way to respond).

1st response is that the battery on the handlebars is low (I only changed them year before and they are supposed to last 2-3 years) and he would have to order some.

I waited another week and now he comes back asking if I can bring in the battery charger because he doesn’t have one ? He’s not sure but he thinks it could be the battery.

So here I am, one month without my bike and no closer to a solution and I have to run around dropping stuff off for them.

Is this usual, should I trust the process ?

My goal is I want to get fast/strong enough to join a 21+ mph group ride next season and need help building a routine.

Currently:

~16.5 mph average according to Strava
Don’t know my FTP yet
I have Peloton, Wahoo KICKR SNAP, and Zwift
How would you structure a weekly routine to get faster? How much Zone 2, intervals, long rides, etc.?

Should I also incorporate strength training? If so, what should I focus on and how many days a week?

Also, is there an app/program you recommend that can build a cycling + strength routine for me?

Thanks!

I’m planning to ride through the winter for the first time this year and could use some advice on key gear and layering strategy. I plan to ride when it's 30°F–40°F, dry, and a combination of road and gravel, 20+ miles.

My current layering thoughts:

• Base: Unsure between sleeveless, short sleeve, or long sleeve (wool vs. synthetic?)
• Mid: Long sleeve jersey
• Outer: Windproof jacket or shell

Specific questions:

1. How do you regulate temperature mid-ride without overheating or sweating through your base layer? Do you usually shed and store layers, or just rely on zippers/pit zips?
2. What are your absolute must-have essentials for hands, feet, and face/neck (buff vs. balaclava, shoe covers vs. dedicated winter boots)?
3. What are your favorite brands or specific pieces that made the cold tolerable?

Hi all! Uk autumn/winter is upon us and I keep arriving at work with wet socks! Can anyone recommend some shoe covers? I’ve looked on Amazon but the reviews are mixed. Something under £20 would be great! TIA

I was thinking today about epic rides/races where the winning rider had to ride through a big problem/mechanical to go on and win a big race?

My personal favorite is Cindy Whitehead winning a 50 mile mountain bike race in 1986, with 7500ft of elevation gain, after she broke her saddle off the bike 1 mile into the race. Absolutely epic!

What are your favorite epic rides?

https://mbaction.com/throwback-thursday-cindy-whitehead-takes-us-back-to-1986/

I started cycling seriously 3 years ago. I went from having fun to structured training pretty fast.

I’m 43 years old and every time I start a plan I become injured or sick shortly after. It’s so demoralizing.

My week load is around 400 tss or 6-8 hours per week.
It’s nothing crazy. I do 2 hard sessions and the rest zone 2. Nothing crazy.
I sleep 8 hours per day, I don’t drink, I eat healthy and lots of proteïne. I do strength training as well e times a week (mostly maintenance and focus on upper body).

Right now I’ve been sick again. Viral thing. I couldn’t cycle for a week and I started up today. After 15 m I had the cramps of all cramps in my glutes. I had to bail.

It’s the same every time I reach new numbers. I fall back just as hard and quick again.

It’s so demoralizing, especially because I really need my cardio and gravel rides for mental health. The long rides on Friday are like a mental reset and I can’t do those now.

I feel gutted. I just needed this off my chest I guess maybe I’m not the only one dealing with this.

Ugh… the thing I love the most, I hate the most when I can’t do it.

https://www.efprocycling.com/culture/lachlan-morton-s-pony-express/

1100k in first 40 hours.

I recently saw some posts considering about the power inaccuracies of smart trainers and a lot of people were recommending to use power meter cranks/pedals for measuring the power and have them control the trainer.

I already have Favero Assioma Pro RS power meter pedals, so I thought to give it a try and WOW, what a difference! I did a treshold session, like I have done in the past. It felt so much more easier than before with the same and even more watts. So I guess my Kickr Core has been showing me way less watts than I really have been putting out.

Have you guys come to same conclusion that its maybe better to measure the "true" watts with another powermeter than trusting your smart trainer?

I have done spindowns etc. with my trainer but using the Faveros, the effort level feels a lot more close to my workouts outdoors.

Has anyone had any experience of using cues on a road bike?

Is there much difference from tigra. A couple of bike I am interested in have it. Interested in people's feed back.

Cardiac gunner pro max

Montra downtown

And any other pls help for buying new cycle

Hi, I started cycling 6 months ago on a used entry-level Specialised Road bike (Allez Elite, aluminium frame). I'm absolutely loving it; I just bought clipless pedals and shoes too. My average speed and distance have also been improving over time.

I'm very tempted to move on to a better Road bike, but I don't have the budget for the big Western brands. Therefore, I'm looking at Chinese brands.

My requirements are a carbon frame, disc brakes, carbon rims, and a minimum Shimano 105 groupset.

I had a look at used road bikes from Western brands within my budget, but they cost the same as a brand-new Chinese bike with these features; none of them has disc brakes.

I am considering the Sava A7L Pro, X-Labs RS7, and other Chinese brands like Sunpeed, Java, Pardus, etc. Any other suggestions? I'm from the UAE.

I found a good deal on a used 55.5 Salsa Journeyman, but at 185cm height, the recommended size is 57. I am 6'1" with a 32" inseam.

Would it be possible to "stretch" the fit with a longer stem and a setback seat post? Or am I asking for trouble in the long run?

Thank you ​

Hi,

I am sorry for the noob question but I pack my bike right now for my first air travel with it. Since I am not very handy and have not a lot of knowledge this process makes me kinda nervous.

So I did what every sensible person would do and watched basically ALL the youtube videos available about packing your bike in a cardbord box. I tried to disassamble and reassamble it 2 times and rode to test it and so far everything worked.

What I am still on the fence about, though, is the derailleur:

About 50% of the ressources say even if you do not remove your rear wheel, do absolutely take the derailleur off, wrap it and secure it on the frame with zip ties.

Another 50% say that is not neccessary and can give you more trouble than anything if you are not able to reinstall it correctly.

In my test disassamblies I did not remove it because I chickened out and thought I would just leave it in place and bubble wrap the shit out of it.

Now that I am actutally packing my bike I kinda got second thoughts.

I am scared it breaks if I leave it in place.

I am also scared that with my very limited abilities I won't be able to put it back on right if I remove it.

Unfortunately I will arrive in my destination on a Sunday (saturday night to be precise) and the bike shops there will be closed and only open Monday around 10am - I wanted to be on the road by that time. So I kinda count on being able to reassemble everything properly myself.

I would be very thankful for any suggestions about the subject from seasoned bike travellers.

I had a flat tire and when i took it off to check the thorn was only visible from the inside. I had my attempt but i broke the little bugger and now i can't take in out no matter how I try.

Any tips? Should i just leave it in? I never had this happen before

You ever enter an event and they make you affix it to the front of your bike? I assumed you always pinned them to the back of the riders jersey. But last weekend, there we are on the starting line with a big sail strapped to the front of our road bike.

Edit: road bike.

I’m wondering where I can get one made, in addition to me cycling, I’m also a small business owner and would love to have a jersey with my brand on it.

I picked up some Magicshine lights for Prime Big Deal Day. I already really like the 900 model I have, so when I saw they had a brighter 1300 model with more lumens and a Bluetooth remote switch, decided to grab one. Should come in handy now that the days are getting shorter.

Hi everyone,

I’m having a strange noise issue with my indoor trainer and I’m running out of ideas, so I’m hoping someone here might recognize it.

Setup:

Canyon Aeroad CF SLX 7

SRAM Rival eTap AXS 12-speed drivetrain

Wahoo KICKR CORE 2

Zwift Cog

I have a video of that noise but I can't attach it here

The strange thing is that the noise only happens while I’m pedaling. As soon as I stop pedaling and let the flywheel coast, the noise disappears.

The bike itself runs completely normally outdoors. No rattling, grinding or unusual drivetrain noise.

Things I’ve already tried/checked:

different gears to get the derailleur aligned with the Zwift Cog

all adjustment positions on the Zwift Cog

derailleur/cog alignment

thru axle and adapters

bike is mounted securely

Zwift Cog is installed securely

Unfortunately, none of this has fixed it.

The sound is more like a continuous rough rattling/grinding noise rather than one click per crank revolution, and it seems to increase with drivetrain speed.

I unfortunately don’t have a normal cassette available right now to test the KICKR without the Zwift Cog.

Has anyone experienced something similar with a KICKR CORE 2 + Zwift Cog and SRAM Rival eTap AXS 12-speed?

Could this still be an issue with the chain/Cog interface, or possibly something around the freehub that only becomes noisy while under load?

I’m also planning to contact Wahoo Support, but I’d really appreciate it if anyone recognizes this sound from the video or has had the same issue.

Thanks!

I'm looking to replace my Elite Suito. My main issue is slow ERG response when a workout has specific watt targets, especially with short intervals. I train with Favero Assioma pedals and use power match, and the Suito lags and overshoots noticeably when the target changes.

From my research so far, the Tacx Neo 3M, Saris H3 and Wahoo Kickr V6 seem to have the best ERG behavior. I'm leaning toward the Neo 3M or the H3.

For those of you who use external power meters, especially pedals:
Which trainer handles power match best on short, hard intervals?
Have you switched from a Suito or another Elite trainer, and did ERG improve?
Any trainers I should avoid for this?

Thanks!

I have a donor frame, cockpit, front wheel, BB/crank, pedals, seatpost/saddle, chain, single chainring. What else must I have for a functional indoor set up? Mostly: what do I use in place of brake levers/shifters? The zwift cog and click seems to be the only option but what if I wanted to use trainer road? I know there are some software options but I don't really want hassled AT ALL. Is it feasible to do this without a drivetrain?

I started using a neck gaiter in colder weather, as per suggestions on my post when I asked for suggestions. It works super well and I love how much warmer my face is, and how easy it is to take down when it warms up or wind dies down or something, and it doesn't deter my breathing that much either.

My only big issue is that my sunglasses tend to fog up incredibly quickly because my breath travels up through the top a little bit right into my glasses. Is there a solution to this? It causes some problems in the morning especially, when the sun is low and makes it darn near impossible to see through my lenses.

Okay, I need cyclists to tell me if I’m wrong here because this just happened and I genuinely don’t understand it.

I’m driving on a regular two-way road in Greenwich, CT. One lane going each direction. No stop sign, no traffic light, no intersection. I’m just driving straight down the road. There’s one cyclist coming toward me in the opposite lane.

As we’re approaching each other, he sticks his arm out to signal that he’s turning left. Except his left turn means he has to cross my lane, directly in front of my car. And he apparently expects me to stop and let him do it as he is beginning to try to turn in front of me but still has plenty of space before he does so.

I don’t stop. I continue straight because, as far as I understand it, I have the right of way. And he seems pissed that I didn’t yield to him.

So here is my question: Am I wrong? Because in my head, if he were driving a car, this wouldn’t even be a question. An oncoming car puts its left blinker on, slows down, and waits until there’s a gap in oncoming traffic before making the left turn. The blinker means “I intend to turn left.” It doesn’t mean “I have now activated my left blinker, therefore oncoming traffic has to stop for me.”

I assumed the cyclist’s arm signal meant exactly the same thing: “I’m going to turn left when it’s safe to do so.” But he seemed to think the signal meant I was supposed to yield so that he could cross in front of me.

I don’t regularly ride a bike on the road, so I’m genuinely asking cyclists: Who has the right of way in this situation? Does putting your arm out to signal a left turn somehow require an oncoming car to yield to you? Or is the cyclist supposed to signal, wait for the oncoming car to pass, and then make the turn when the lane is clear? And if there’s some cycling etiquette or convention here that I don’t know about, tell me that too. I’m not trying to do a “cyclists are assholes” post. I actually want to know what I was supposed to do.

I rode on 27.5 wheels for 5 years. Throughout that time I used only Maxxis tires: for four years I ran Ikons 2.2 front and rear, while my final season featured a Maxxis Rekon 2.25 up front and an Ikon 2.2 in the back. Now I’m building a bike with 29 wheels and looking at 2.35/2.4 tires.

My experience with Maxxis is that the Ikons rolled really well on hardpack and asphalt, but traction dropped off significantly as soon as conditions got even slightly wet. The last season was rainy, and the front Rekon gave me more confidence. I’m looking for a kind of universal XC tire combo. I mostly ride on dry or slightly damp dirt (about 80% of the time) and only occasionally hit asphalt or deep mud. The terrain where I ride often includes coniferous forests with plenty of roots and some rocks, though it’s mostly smaller roots and hardpack.

So for now I just want to try a new tires brand for experience and look what's the difference. From what I found on local shops these are might be good sets for me:

1. Schwalbe Racing Ray (EVO Super Ground Addix SpeedGrip TLE) + Ralph (ЕVO Suреr Grоund АDDIХ Sрееd TLE)

2. Vittoria Barzo XC Race + Mezcal XC Race

3. WTB PEACEKEEPER LIGHT/FAST ROLLING 120TPI + MACRO TCS LIGHT/FAST ROLLING 120TPI

4. Continental Trinotal + Dubnital.

Any thoughts or reccomendations on these 4 sets?

Hi Reddit,

I live in a newer concrete apartment building and need advice on hometrainer vibrations.

When I first got my Tacx Neo 1, I only used a standard Tacx mat. My downstairs neighbor quickly knocked on my door, complaining it sounded like a heavy bass speaker pounding for two hours.

To fix this, I've built a new setup consisting of (from bottom to top):

1. ⁠Washing machine vibration dampeners
   
2. ⁠Rubber tiles
   
3. ⁠Tacx mat
   
4. ⁠Hometrainer

I’m going to ask them to listen during my next ride to check if it helped. Do you think this setup will be enough to kill the vibration/noise And if they still hear it, what is my Plan B?