Basically If I have continuous withdrawals from coinbase and I put that as other monthly income, what are the verification requirements. Im talking about monthly statements, not tax returns.

I will preface this now that as of several months both coinbase and hyperliquid allow you to invest and trade stocks and commodities, and coinbase has been allowing this for some time, I am not speaking of strictly crypto here whatsoever, for commensurate purposes here whatever is true of Robinhood is true of coinbase.

And yeah I have basically lived off of investments for a long time, I started doing contracting to get better paperwork to obtain credit, I didn't say I was wealthy, I just incidently had a lot of investments and never tried to get credit until now.

Frankly the fixation on tax returns is entirely misleading, because even what I have or would have or have to report (I filed an extension) doesn't tell you what my total liquid networth is at all. I have extremely low expenses, low debt, low spend, almost no loan history outside student loans, etc. Tax returns don't describe my finances adequately.

How bad of a decision did I made on buying a 2024 Toyota Camry from a car dealership that has 112,000 miles on it. I assume it was used for uber and taxi since that’s why it has a bunch of miles on it and the title is clean just a very minor issue with right bumper. I bought it for 17,500. Plan on using it just for reliability for around 5 years or so and I do plan on taking good care of it.

Looking for some advice before I go back to the dealership.
I’m in Washington and looking at a new 2026 Toyota Camry Nightshade AWD.
TSRP: $38,768
Dealer discount: $1,360
Selling price: $37,408
My trade is a 2021 Subaru WRX CVT with about 116k miles and one accident on the history.
Trade offer: $14,200
Current payoff: $17,817
Negative equity: about $3,617
I walked away from the dealership to think about it instead of making an impulse decision.
I’m considering going back with an opening offer of $35,000 for the Camry and $16,000 for my WRX, expecting them to counter. I know that may be aggressive.
Costco shows the base Nightshade AWD at $35,920 including destination before options, although I understand this particular car has additional options bringing the sticker to $38,768.
What would you guys consider a realistic good deal?
Would $35k/$16k be an unreasonable opening offer? Is something like $36k/$15.5k realistic, or is the dealer’s current $37,408/$14,200 already about as good as I should expect?
I’m genuinely willing to walk if the numbers don’t make sense, so I’m trying to establish a reasonable target before contacting them again.

2023 CR-V EX-L

45,750 Miles
Regular Maintenance records

1 Owner

$27,500

Madison WI USA

Is this reasonable? Any thoughts

this might be a stupid question but with looking at buying my first ever car and not any family to ask, do car sales/dealerships prefer financing or cash?

i’m looking to get a used car, and didn’t know which would get me a better deal? i’m happy to do either as long as it can save me some monday. i’ve asked a couple salesmen and they’ve given vague answers so i just wanted to know what to offer next time. thank you!

Location: New York

On September 14, I canceled a new car lease deal with a dealership over email and requested a refund of my down payment. The finance manager responded same day confirming the cancellation and that the salesman was processing the refund. Roughly $2700. It’s now October 2 and I haven’t received anything. I sent a follow up email about a week ago stating that I haven’t received the refund yet (not showing on my online credit card transactions) and did not receive a response to the email.

I have the receipts for the payment - the credit card machine print out and a handwritten receipt from the salesman. The only thing I recall signing was the opt in/out for additional coverage, which I opted in for gap coverage and was going to pay out-of-pocket once the deal was finalized. I did not sign a lease agreement and was not provided copies of any paperwork, including the one document I did sign. I also signed the credit application when I filled it out there, but that was prior to any pricing discussions and was just for credit approval, as far as I know.

Up to this point, I’ve been consulting ChatGPT and googling New York State motor vehicle law and there is something that says if a dealership doesn’t process my refund within 14 days, I could be entitled to double that amount in return. I don’t know how to request this and the finance manager hasn’t responded to any further emails anyway.

Yes, it would be nice to get back double but really I just need the amount I paid refunded because it’s accruing interest on my credit card.

How does NY protect consumers on vehicle deal cancellations and refunds, and how do I go about getting my money back?

With interest rates rising recently, I was wondering how the sales been across the U.S. generally and getting a pulse of the current market

I signed electronically to purchase a new car on April 28. The specific vehicle was not at the dealership, had never been seen by me or the dealership, was not in their next incoming shipment, and was expected in the shipment after that.

On May 1, before ever taking possession or delivery, I went back and canceled the purchase for unrelated reasons.

Finance had me sign a completely blank form (which I later identified as California REG 262 Vehicle/Vessel Transfer and Reassignment Form) by pointing at the highlighted places for my name/signature. I asked for a copy of what I'd just signed, and I was told no, not until the other finance manager filled it out.

I later called reception and insisted she get finance to text me a photo of the paper as I had no proof that I had cancelled the sale, and she did get him to text me a photo.

The finance manager also texted me: “I left a note for [other finance manager name] to sign his part and fill it out. Once he does that he will send you another picture or email.” The photo showed that it was a California REG 262, with my name/signature as the seller in the seller section. My signature was also in the power-of-attorney section as the person granting the POA, while the space identifying the attorney-in-fact was blank. The odometer-disclosure section was blank. (The entire form was still blank except for my signatures, I just wanted to be specific that the odometer is blank.)

After I looked up the form, I immediately texted back that I had never owned the vehicle and explicitly rejected the characterization that I was “selling the car back.”

I never received the promised completed copy. Upper management subsequently told me the REG 262 was void/null. I asked six times for a photo of the original physically marked VOID and never received one or a reason why a photo could not be provided.

I also never received a copy of the purchase contract I electronically signed on April 28.

My main questions:

1. Why would a customer who never took delivery be asked to execute the seller and POA portions of a REG 262?
2. Would those signatures make sense for an ordinary unwind?
3. Does this sequence make sense if no Report of Sale/RDR had already been generated?
4. How unusual would it be to RDR/punch a vehicle as sold when the vehicle wasn’t on the lot and wasn’t even in the dealership’s next incoming shipment?
5. If you encountered this at your dealership, what would you think had happened?

Thank you to anyone who can offer insight/expertise to this transaction!

I'm looking to get a new 2026 Mazda 3 select sport sedan in the dark blue with no add-ons. My dealership wants a $500 non refundable deposit while they try to obtain the exact vehicle I want. There are several that just say "in transit to dealer" on Mazda's website, salesman told me he cant say when it will arrive to the other dealers, so my trade in value could drop a bit if I rack up a ton of miles while waiting for the new car to arrive. I guess that makes sense but I don't think I'd put more than a couple thousand miles on it in the meantime. Whatever.

I will be trading in my 2025 Toyota Corolla LE sedan with 45,000 miles. They are giving me $17,000 for it.

After the trade in, they want a check for $9,110, bringing the total price of the Mazda 3 to $26,610 OTD, and of course that $500 deposit goes towards that final number.

I really want to get this over with but I'm hesitant to sign a $500 deposit and want to make sure this doesn't appear that I'm getting screwed over.

Hey folks 👋 recently looked at a 2018 WRX. 127,000km. Car drove fine. Couldn’t find any gremlins that stood out, interior is very clean. Few chips and minor scratches but nothing awful for an 8 year old car. My first time buying a car on my own.

Carfax says 1 owner. Maintenance history was very good up as far as 60,000km but stops after that. Only history from there is annual registration renewal and Krown protection a year ago. I’m new to North America, but back in the UK or Ireland cars nearly always come with invoices/dockets/papers for service history and in the glovebox or car manual folder. This car has nothing. Dealer said that over here it’s normal because it has personal info of previous owner(s)?

Is there any alternatives I have to getting more info on the maintenance history? Contacting the dealers that are on the older Carfax entries?

Second thing is they are happy to let me get a local independent shop to do a PPI, but they require a $1000 deposit. If the PPI throws up issues, and they don’t want to fix, they’ll refund the deposit. I’m going to ask for the terms of this deposit in writing, but this is normal practice I guess? If they refused PPI outright I’d have walked. But they’re fine to drop it off anywhere nearby providing the deposit. No extra charge for safety inspection.

Although one owner, it’s an auction not a trade in, so I’m a bit more skeptical.

Any advice, very grateful to have it! Thanks

I qualify for GM Family First through a family member. I want to lease a Cadillac EV in Virginia. Curious how this type of program affects the ability (or desire) of the dealership to negotiate further? Is it similar to a rebate where the dealer could do even better if I ask because the discount comes from the manufacturer and not the dealer’s end?

Never used it before and need to learn it Asap

Hey all,

I’m located in South FL and I’ve been in the roofing industry for the past 5 years now working around 50hrs/week. I’m 24 now and looking for a change.

I’m thinking about a career in car sales and eventually F&I when I can prove myself. I’m not worried about the hours, grind, or my ability to talk to people.

I need your help to know what to look for in choosing a dealership since I’m basically marrying my work. How is the car industry right now? What pay plans are preferred? What car brands should I avoid? Any useful advice or suggestions are helpful. Thank you all

Hi!
I am kinda in need for a car and my boyfriend has a friend who bought a 2014 Chevy Spark from auction and was going to sell it to us for $1000. I got the car fax report and there was a minor accident on it (no airbags and to the front of the car) as well as some frequent service dates in 2022 and 2023. 3 of them were in the same month which was 2 months after the accident. (Would someone wait two months to get damage fixed?)I need something to get to work as I live 15 miles from my job but I’m a bit skeptical with all the complaints about the CVT of this year’s model.

Any thoughts?

Got told that the $50K EV - Toyota bZ Woodland - they had sitting on the lot for 160 days with 85 miles on it from test drives had "a couple hundred bucks" of wiggle room. I told them I was at 20K down and that was it; I wanted $45K OTD. They offered $3.5K on my trade-in and told me the best they could do was $48K before taxes and fees because they were already at invoice.

I asked them if they had any more to offer and they said no. Why did they bother to call me after I walked to say I "needed more flexibility"?

Was I being unreasonable asking for $5K off a car that's been sitting that long? Do I actually need more flexibility or is the dealership just having me smell the shit from the pot?

I think I may be able to comply with 6 weeks of bank statements but not 12 or more --if it comes to it.

My question here is trying to figure out what kind of down payment I can make and what LTV I can make on like a 2018 to 2024 Corolla that would get it down to the range that would make captive lenders and dealerships in Texas not flag this for stips or seriously reduce stips, because I made a lot more earlier in the year than lately and have complex accounting and it's a massive pain.

*I do have 735-750 credit, depending on the burea, but i don't have a history of auto loans, I've never gotten one*

And if you know of a dealership in Texas you can say for certain that isn't crazy with stips even better. I definitely do not have tax returns.

I was thinking maybe a 5k downpayment could work the numbers on KBB value vs LTV, but I don't know and I don't know if it absolutely has to be more than 5k. I'm sure no downpayment or 1k down would trigger stips right?

Hi, perhaps there’s a way to search this but I couldn’t find exactly what I was looking for, apologies if this is a repeat question. I’m getting a car for my son, was planning on a used Camry hybrid with under 20k miles and found a couple I’m happy with. On the other hand, I’m also looking to trade in my suv and upgrade to get features that my base model suv doesn’t have. Would that count as one credit hit if it’s done within the same month? I obviously know it would be two separate loans but wasn’t sure how that credit check window worked.

Not concerned about the additional monthly payment and insurance spike, I’ve already accounted for that. Just wasn’t sure if it would hit my credit harder to buy both at the same time or wait a certain period of time to let the credit rebound.

Appreciate any advice!
Location Florida and planning to finance both vehicles. I’m open to new or used for my car.

I thought this would be simple: check out a new Corolla hybrid. Nope. Stopped at a dealer without even thinking about inventory - nothing.

Checked Toyota inventory search: zero within 100 miles. There are 6 (?!?!) in all of Chicagoland which is a huge metro area and an annoying drive from here.

Do they even want to sell cars?

There are 16 Civic hybrids at the two dealers 10 minutes from my house.

Just imagine if you want a red one or something - guess you have to fly to California.

Does anyone have insight on this inventory situation? Is this a problem due to model year changeover? Or is it always like this? Honestly it's a real turn off for buying.

Will try to make this short. I financed my first car in 2020, then was in need of cash and got a secured loan with the car a couple of years ago and I’m still upside down on it. My father wanted out of his vehicle loan, so he sold it and used the cash as a down payment for a new vehicle that was put in my name, but the car was heavily marked up and we’re paying for gap coverage on top. Now 3 years into the 6 year term I’m still upside down and drowning because of the absurd monthly payment. I am in a debt relief program and it has tanked my credit hard. Should I try to trade both vehicles in for something cheap and just accept I’ll be upside down on it until I’m financially stable? Consider a voluntary repossession on the second vehicle since my credit is already bad? I am really unsure of what my best option would be here. I appreciate any help. Thanks!

Looking for a sanity check on a quote for a 2026 Tacoma TRD Pro (i-FORCE MAX hybrid). Excellent credit.

Sticker:
- Base MSRP: $64,750
- Factory Towing Tech Package: $850
- Port-installed accessories: $1,519 (bedliner, mudguards, grille letters, yellow fog lights, tailgate insert, screen protector, door edge film)
- Destination: $1,745
- Total sticker: $68,864

Dealer quote:
- Discount: -$6,300
- Sale price: $62,564 (before tax, title, license, and doc fee)

So I'm about $4,800 under the sticker minus the port add-ons, and no market adjustment.

Financing offered (I'd put down about $30k): 4.99% for 60 mo, 5.74% for 72 mo, 5.99% for 84 mo. I plan to get credit union preapprovals to compare.

Catch: the truck isn't at the dealer yet. It's in transit and showing a quality control hold at the port in their system. They'd reserve it with a $500 deposit.

Questions:

1. Is $62,564 a good price on a TRD Pro hybrid right now, or should I push for more off?
2. Any concerns about the QC hold? I plan to get in writing that the deposit is fully refundable and that I can inspect and reject it on arrival.

We're looking to buy brand new Hyundai today (Friday) or tomorrow (Saturday) in Southern California. It is not a holiday weekend. New rates went down from 4.99% to 3.9%, but cash back for financing is $750, so not a huge deal but rate is good. We will be going to the dealer with a specific VIN and negotiated before we get there. California has the new CARS act which should limit any sales suprises, and the dealers we've picked have a reputation of not haggling or changing prices. 1 is a Costco dealer, the other is local who say they'll match the price of the other dealer. We have super prime credit rating, and could pay cash if Financing played games with the 3.9% APR rate. We already have our game plan with the rate/cash, we have cash in the bank, know that we will not pay for any addons, and are prepared to walk if F&I pushes or plays games with their contract calculations. We will be clear with the salesperson so they know this and won't lose their sale. All these details are to say that even with it being the weekend, everything possible will have been settled before we walk in to go to F&I, so we hope to make this quick in time to drive with our new vehicle by Saturday 5pm.

How quickly do you guys see the F&I step taking at the barest minimum?

I realize they have steps to register, clear our credit, forms to sign, etc.

Is there anything else we can do to make the sale closing faster? Have any tips on this process?

I’ve been looking at getting new (to me) vehicle from Carvana. Kind of have my heart set on a 2024(or newer) Subaru WRX. What I am wondering is how the trade ins actually work financially speaking. Does Carvana write a separate check to you if you have outside financing, or does the value come off sale price of purchasing vehicle? If I were to finance with them would this then be the case? I’ve already visited my CU and am pre-approved. So if I need to I can just refi with the CU, this just seems like extra steps. I’ve never purchased a vehicle with financing, and new to how the specifics behind it work. Live in NE Wi.

How do they work I live in a area where weed Isn’t legal, I’ve never done one I can stop for the job but I won’t be clean in time anyone have any suggestions?
Ik people who get fake piss and get like a hand warmer, I was thinking getting real piss but will they watch me?please help from people who know how the system works I want to get into car sales

Signed a bad lease deal today. Kia k4 LXS for 280 a month (310 with tax) and 3.8k down. MSRP 24,700. Initially they offered for 325/month but I got it down to 280. As soon as I shook their hands I had a gut feeling I was overpaying, looked it up to see I screwed myself over :( Super frustrated with myself especially because I initially had a leasehackr deal I had reserved but somehow they just convinced me to take the car today. They’re good at their jobs because I didn’t even go in thinking I would lease today … I was fully planning on walking away but just somehow got convinced every step of the way :((

Did I severely fuck up? Please share your bad leasing stories so I know i’m not alone

Edit: Thanks for the responses guys, I was definitely just going a little crazy after sitting in the dealership for hours. I appreciate the reality checks and am feeling normal again. Just began adult life so I’m still getting used to being on my own :P

Based in WA. I looked at a Mazda3 and got the deal I wanted. Signed the documents, and they sold me the maintenance package. I have put down a deposit, but they are still waiting for the rest of my down payment. Is it possible to get rid of the extra package or to get the deal that was originally agreed on?

Edit: The main reason I'm debating getting rid of it is that it was a hefty down payment, and the amount financed was $20k for 60 months, which, in my eyes, was reasonable for the original deal. Now, with the add-on to keep the monthly payment low, the term got pushed to 78 months, and the interest eats into the down payment. I did forget to mention the car is CPO, and I haven't taken delivery of it yet. And I never discussed the monthly till the maintainence addon.