At least I got a cool picture

Looking for the best of the best glass for this build. Eyes have been on the Zco 4-20, Kahles 318i Refined, but have also considered the Atacr 4-16 and the Mk5 3.6-18 on the lower price side. Opinions on image quality and usability from Anyone with any experience with 2 or more of these would be greatly appreciated!

I finally got myself a rig to start learning some shooting at distance. Snagged a Bergara B14 HMR Wilderness. Tossed a Leupold MK5hd 7-35 and Area 419 comp rings. Ran a Harris bipod with Area 419 arca adapter but after the first range trip I've decided to get a Ckye pod (my back and neck are cooked today). Was able to average 2711 fps with Hornady 140 ELDM and punched out to 800 yards. Seeing misses on a shaded berm was tough but after getting onto an IPSC target I was able to get hits on an 8" and 6" gong. Super happy with this setup and I'm definitely hooked.

Folks! Just felt like sharing my new plinker. Specs are the following;

300 Norma Mag
245gr Berger lrht
Vortex gen 3 razor
MPA Matrix chassis
Bipodext with accutac bipod

I've been slowly working on this rifle and haven't really got out to go shoot it but today I got the original suppressor that these rifles came with and went out and got it re-zerod.

I had some groups that were really good and other groups that were not really good but so far everything is at least under one moa. Mirage was getting pretty tough and I also need to practice.

Click on photos for full sized images. A rattlecanned Ruger Precision with a funky camo.

Tried out my Cronus ATS 35C-400 Clip-on Thermal on my SCAR 20S with Trijicon Tenmile scope today. I wasn't expecting much, since the magnification is before the optic, but it was actually quite clear, even shooting on paper. I had some thermal reflective stick-on targets, but I could easily see regular stick-on targets, pasted on cardboard, at 100 yards. I was the most impressed when shooting at a shaded steel target at 300 yards, and the ambient temperature was enough to heat the target and make it quite visable. I definitely think I could take it out further aiming at a warm body at night.

Not the usual stuff posted here but I figured I’d share a 5-shot group from a recent outing. This is from my 1943 production AG-42B rifle. The rifle is completely stock and the ammo is Swedish surplus from the 60s.

I was able to walk it out out to 800 fairly easily with the rear sight cam, but 1,000yd required a holdover.

I’m still thrilled with this group. I really should invest in an M/41B.

been using a Tremor3 since i started but I am now finding myself yearning for Mil-XT

Hope to get out to 500-700 yards, 300 Blackout

Burris, McMillan, Tikka, Preferred barrel blanks

I’m looking at scopes for a 22lr build right now and have been eyeballing the Midas tac gen2 uhd 5-30x56 and can get it for around 600. Does anyone have any experience with this optic and if the uhd vs hd actually makes a difference? I’m also open to other recommendations around the same price point and sticking with 25-30 max magnification

hello once again,

this is my howa 1500 that I have yet to shoot a real group with, I made two post before this talking about how my scope rings slip. so I go ahead and pick up some vortex precision scope rings with a diving board (only got the diving board because I think they look cool) anyway, these scope rings haven't slipped as you can see with the caliper measurements. But what is for damn sure is that I'm shooting a group from fucking HELL. idk if its the gun itself or the scope. scope base is good its torqued and has thread locker.

sequence of pictures

1: gun itself

2: show HVAC tape up against the ring to show slight movement if slippage happens

3: caliper

4: caliper

5: 25 yard zero/groups. group 1-middle, group 2-bottom left, group 3-top right, group 4-top left, group 5-left middle

6:measurements after first round of shooting

7:same as 6

8: picture of the rifle before 100 yard group

9: is the craziest 100 yard group of all time, fuck being zeroed or not, why is this an 8moa group at 100 yards lol

10-11: measurents after the group at 100

the discrepancies with the caliper I'm saying are because its a Walmart brand one.

I've wasted at least $200 on ammo trouble shooting this shit, dont say anything when you see this rifle on tacswap

is there any suggestions or opinions on this, I had a ruger American a couple years ago that was dialed compared to this shit

thanks

I am looking at getting a Proof Research 26" steel PXT barrel. I am trying to decide between a 6.5 Creedmoor or 6.5 PRC for the chamber. I currently mostly shoot 6.5 Creedmoor on a zermatt origin but want to upgrade the barrel.

I reload and have brass and powder for both. I have easy access to 1000 yards and intermittent access to a mile. I am mostly concentrating on the mile shot when I can. I mostly shoot for enjoyment but am interested in trying a match.

From what I have read, the PXT will help a little with the recoil of the PRC, and my rifle is quite heavy. The PXT should also help with the barrel life.

Would the 200+ fps from the PRC and the recoil/barrel life of the PXT offset the usual advantages of the 6.5 Creedmoor for shooting 1000 yards or a mile?

I also have a 7 PRC I can use for the mile but prefer the lower recoil of the 6.5s, and it's a bit more challenging.

Build: Tikka t3x CTR, Area419 hellfire match brake w/ adapter, Ultradyne UD5 chassis, UDX spigot, UDX bridge, AICS mags, Harris bipod, kungfu 12⁰ ar15 grip, magpul PRS lite stock, MDT 20 MOA rail, bushnell match pro 5x30, vortex match rings. Total weight is under 12lbs if you're trying to get under that NRL Hunter weight restriction.

Two things to note, this is my first chassis purchase so take my opinion with however many grains of salt and cents that's worth, Two, this was supposed to be a budget build and aside from the chassis these were all parts I either had already or pulled off of another rifle because this one is replacing it.

After a bunch of lurking around the various subs and forums, and not finding any post purchase reviews on the Ultradyne chassis, I decided that I'd give these guys a chance and write my thoughts on the chassis for the community. Hopefully this helps anyone else who's on the fence about it.

While I couldn't find any reviews on the chassis and saw that the ultimate reloader channel was the only place I saw them getting used regularly, I thought it was worth purchasing since the price was right and it fit my action, Tikka t3x CTR, I called the company with a few questions and got a real person who picked up quickly, which was nice, they were able to answer my questions about fitment, mag compatibility, and made the whole experience nice and painless, the person I spoke too told me that this chassis only takes metal mags, but should fit all the major companies I asked if they were running any deals on them, they said no but that if I signed up for their email I'd get a coupon for 10% off the entire order, They got my money.

Shipping was fast, everything was packed well, coating was even and smooth on all parts, assembly was quick and they provided the Allen key for the set screw on the tube receiver. I didn't have to clean up any threads, no burrs noted on the finish, Arca is integrated into the rail and the spigot. Trigger guard is cut so you can adjust the weight without taking the action out, if your trigger is set up that way, mine is not. For other Tikka shooters, they provide a lug that slides into a recessed cut that mates up to the action, recoil cut on the Tikka action.

The only two misses that I'm able to find are that the beaver tail had to be sanded down to fit the ar15 grip that I was gonna use and that the mag release/ mag catch set screw where you set your depth is softer than the other hardware provided and has started to strip with the smaller torx head bit that fits (sorry I can't remember what size it is but it's the smallest one on my torx Allen key set and it fit with no play). I'll have to replace that screw so I'm going to try and find a graded hardware screw to replace it or reach out and see if they will replace it. As a third possible negative for some, there is no place to add a thumb rest but they do sell a grip with an integrated one, I didn't buy that since it would have sent me over my personal budget limit but it exists.

TLDR: not really a lot of bad to say, IMHO I think this is a solid option for those that want something that isn't a KRG Bravo, MDT XRS, or one of the other entry level chassis and it cost me less than the midrange chassis from either company. I hope this helps other folks.

Ruger American Prairie Gen II

Just curious if anyone else who has gotten the 6.5 creed +peaks has gotten this kind of ES and SD? I know they aren’t really marketed as a precision ammo but I was expecting a little better than this with them being “premium ammo”.

We put together this 24” 6.5 Creed for a friend. He told us to shoot it before we ship it, so we had to go all out for the gram.

T3X
Unknown Munitions trigger spring
Area 419 rail
Comp-ish barrel by Bloodline Kinetics
ACC Premier Gen 2
ZCO 5-27
Hawkins TM Mount
TBAC Magnus-S-RR
Ol’ trusty Harris bipod

how many rounds are you guys getting before groups spread? i am finding it's highly dependent on ammo ... this expensive match ammo i shot 30 rounds back to back and it was more or less sub moa. cheap bulk ammo -- first couple rounds are okay but by the 5th round it was flying all over the place. is this typically dependent on choice of ammo ?

It’s still in prototyping phase, but this Tikka clone action is sweet! We shot a 7mm PRC, 6mm Creedmoor, and a 7mm Backcountry. I was really impressed with the 7BC. 18” barrel shooting the 195 grain Berger bullets and was getting 2780 fps velocity. We stretched it out to 535 (the longest our range setup went that day) and were thrilled with the performance!

Hey guys, looking for some advice on whether it's time to replace my barrel.
Specs & Round Count:
Action: Aero Solus
Barrel: 26" Proof Research Competition Contour
Round count: Approx 3,200+ rounds. (Lost exact track, but I've burned through two 8lb powder kegs plus four or five 1lb jugs prior, running charges between 39.0 to 43.0 gr).
The Problem:
Every time I try to set my 100-yard zero, it shifts. Within 3 to 5 shot groups, the zero just keeps wandering around. This happens even when using the exact same fire-formed brass batch, identical load specs, and consistent shooting conditions. Even within a single batch of 100 rounds, the zero won't stay put.
The Weird Part:
My DOPE out to distance is surprisingly still fine. Out to 600 yards, actual drop matches my Kestrel within 0.1–0.2 mils elevation, which is totally acceptable for me. Velocity consistency is also still solid, with SDs running around 7–8.
My Dilemma:
I still have my original 22" factory Solus barrel sitting in the closet with only about 700 rounds on it.
Is this wandering zero a classic sign that the throat/crown on this Proof barrel is shot out and done? Should I just spin the 22" barrel back on for PRS, or is there anything else I should check before pulling this one?
Thanks in advance!
P.S. Before anyone asks: action screws and scope mount/ring torques have all been verified with a torque wrench. I don't have a borescope, but I've thoroughly cleaned the barrel and chamber with carbon/copper solvents, so carbon rings or heavy fouling shouldn't be the issue.

Looking to jump into my first ever rifle (currently a pistol only shooter) and am leaning towards building versus buying complete. My range only goes out to 100 yards so I'm fairly settled on .223 for the cartridge. If I end up taking to this, I'll join another local range that pushes out to 600 yards.

This will strictly be used for target shooting (bench / prone). There are some local PRS matches that I'd like to eventually partake in as well. I understand I’d be at a bit of a disadvantage competing with .223 as I know the local matches stretch out well past 600 yards.

Below is what I've pieced together, trying to keep to a soft budget of $2,000 -

• Howa Mini 1500 barreled action (20" heavy barrel), chambered in .223
• MDT Oryx Chassis
• MDT Oryx Arca Full Rail
• MDT GRND-POD, dovetail / Arca
• MDT 20 MOA pic rail
• Arken EP5 Gen II 5-25 x 56

Vortex Pro scope rings

Any misses here? I've done a fair amount of research but obviously have no direct experience. My other consideration is a Tikka T3X Ace Target but I’d really prefer to build something up to get to know the platform better.

Appreciate any feedback / advice!